Wested Raider fit question

[zigmo]

I am getting ready to buy a Wested ROLA custom-fit jacket in Novapelle, and wanted to ask a couple questions;

First, I have an old Flightsuits A-2 44-short in horsehide which fits well and I just measured the sleeve length to be 23 inches long from the shoulder seam (on top of the shoulder) to the terminal point of the leather at the cuff-- which happens to be the 'ideal' length.

I am 5 foot 8 inches tall, no orangoutang arms or crazy short arms, but does this sound about right?

Second, I have read the posts about asking for an additional 1-1.5 inches of length to the front of the jacket so it doesn't ride up. This sounds like sound advice, and I think I will do this but want to ensure it is the general consensus.

Third, I saw mention of asking for the cuff to be tapered-in a bit: I definitely like this suggestion as I think the jacket may look better this way, but how do I ask for something like this? What is the terminology?

Finally, all things considered, if the leather will end up shortening a bit due to creases etc. in the sleeves, should I ask for 24 inch length instead of the measured 23 inches as mentioned above.

Thanks for any advice, I appreciate it.

[Chewbacca Jones]

Sleeve length you gave sounds like the right ball park. Just consider the sleeve type. An A-2 has elastic cuffs, so the sleeve is less likely to feel too long. An Indy sleeve will hang loose, full length. If you have a suit jacket that fits properly, that might be better, or have somebody measure your actual arm to where you would want the sleeve to end.

It is true that a sleeve will ride up as it breaks in, but not too dramatically. Still, better to be a little long and have it taken up later, than have it too short. However, a full extra inch is probably overkill. It's amazing what a half inch can do when it comes to clothing.

Also, with a Wested, no harm will ever come from asking for extra length in front.

[Texan Scott]

Ideally, you want the cuff to end at the first nuckle of your thumb. It is a good idea to ask for an additional 1" in the front. Back length as we know it is measured from the bottom of the collar stand to the end of the jacket. The jacket should end at an inch or two below your belt, depending on how you prefer it to fit. If you prefer a slimmer cut, the RoTLA style will fit better around the arms and wrists, as its specs include a slimmer torso and slimmer sleeves. a few helpful options on the custom: gussets, hidden press stud on the bottom of the storm flap and cotton body/satin sleeves. If lamb, go with the rectangular sliders. The D-rings work best with thicker, cowhide leather.

[Texan Scott]

Also, the new wested novapelle is HIGHLY recommended! The copper is fine, but I think the new novapelle is better.

[zigmo]

Also, the new wested novapelle is HIGHLY recommended! The copper is fine, but I think the new novapelle is better.

The choice in their current menu is "Novapelle Antique Brown", is this the one that you're referring to?

Below is the link to the jacket I am going to get-- this one has the slimmer fit in the sleeves/body, right?

http://www.wested.com/raiders-jacket-157-p.asp

Thanks again

[Texan Scott]

Yes on both counts. RoTLA and the antique novapelle is pre-distressed. Might ask for extra D-rings, also. They are not much and may be handy some day.