Club Obi Wan

Have noticed a few mentions of custom made jackets which still aren't quite "right", sometimes due to a defect, other times just something to do with the fit, stitches coming out, how well the leather held up, etc.

How many purchasers of a custom jacket were 100% satisfied?
How many purchasers of an off the rack jacket were 100% satisfied?

I've never been 100% satisfied with my off the rack jackets, although in most cases, the picks were pretty small....

My Berman's brown flight jacket had sleeves that were just slightly too long, only an inch or so, and would push the knit cuffs down on my hands, until I learned to turn the cuffs up. And it came with a little bit of padding in the shoulders, which I didn't notice for a long time. When I did finally notice it, I carefully cut the seams in the lining, and removed the padding. But I still have the jacket and wear it 25 years later.

My Wilson's "Open Road" motorcycle jacket has a very discreet bit of padding in the shoulders as well, but I probably will just live with it. But I'd have liked it better if they had just left out the padding.

My first motorcycle jacket was an Excelled, US made, and seemed to be good leather. However, the cut seemed oddly assymetrical, too much leather hanging on one side if it wasn't zipped up. in contrast, my Schott 118 Perfecto and the Wilson's both seem fine zipped or unzipped.

However, the belt on the 118 doesn't seem as nicely made as the belt on the Wilson's (although it has a really attractive buckle).

my last goatskin jacket was perfect. stitches too.

now I want one in auth lamb. I had one in dark brown but sent it back 2 weeks ago. the dark is nice but I did expect it to be more deep dark brown instead of purple brown.

Holt, what jacket did you have in dark brown? an LC?

I think as a general rule of thumb, most people would tend to be more satisfied with a custom jacket. If the measurements and specs are right, a custom jacket makes you feel all warm and fuzzy.

For me personally I think custom is the way to go. I have 40 chest, with a slim waist and long arms (my TN Raiders jacket has a 20" waist, will have a 22.5" chest and it has 26" arm length) so it is extremely hard to get an off the rack jacket with the right arm length with the proper chest. The arm length for me is good on a large but the body and waist is usually from a small or medium sized jacket or shirt, so u can see why custom is the way, plus it always looks more tailored when it's a custom which is a HUGE thing for me.

RCSignals wrote:Holt, what jacket did you have in dark brown? an LC?

Raiders.

Funny you should ask, and surprisingly enough, off the rack, but I have a build that works reasonably well with off the wrack sizes. When people try to fit them to me, it just ends up looking too tight in my estimation. I hate ordering fitted clothes by mail.

Indiana Holt wrote:

RCSignals wrote:Holt, what jacket did you have in dark brown? an LC?

Raiders.

So someone has a chance at a size 44 Holt spec Raiders if Wested will sell it?

I dont know, probably. I think its gone though....

but I must say for the person who is gonna take it if it still there, the sleeves are made wider at the bicep and armhole. I work out so I need this.

bigrex wrote:Funny you should ask, and surprisingly enough, off the rack, but I have a build that works reasonably well with off the wrack sizes. When people try to fit them to me, it just ends up looking too tight in my estimation. I hate ordering fitted clothes by mail.

Actually, I do pretty well with OTR myself. But custom works a little better for me.

I think it should generally go without saying that custom would be the best route to go, assuming you give and get correct measurements.

Comparing custom jackets with off-the-rack jackets really doesn't seem to make sense, if you're comparing a custom jacket made from one vendor to an off-the-rack jacket made from another. If they're made by the same vendor, then the only difference should be a more personal fit, and any other differences would be a matter of quality control, I would assume.

The only major issue I can possibly see here is with the fit of the jacket in the long haul. If you get an off-the-rack jacket, then likely the proportions will be a bit more generous, whereas a custom would be more fitting. With the former, you'd be able to layer up more, and have more room to "grow", while with a custom, if you outgrow your old measurements, you'll most likely need a new jacket!

Personally, my weight and build doesn't shift that much, so where possible and when given the choice, I like to get my clothes either tailored or custom-made.

Indiana Holt wrote:I dont know, probably. I think its gone though....

but I must say for the person who is gonna take it if it still there, the sleeves are made wider at the bicep and armhole. I work out so I need this.

I thought custom Westeds weren't returnable. ?

jasonalun wrote:

Indiana Holt wrote:I dont know, probably. I think its gone though....

but I must say for the person who is gonna take it if it still there, the sleeves are made wider at the bicep and armhole. I work out so I need this.

I thought custom Westeds weren't returnable. ?

They are afraid if Holt. His ancestors Invaded once and took a long time to leave. They don't want a repeat.

RCSignals wrote:

jasonalun wrote:

Indiana Holt wrote:I dont know, probably. I think its gone though....

but I must say for the person who is gonna take it if it still there, the sleeves are made wider at the bicep and armhole. I work out so I need this.

I thought custom Westeds weren't returnable. ?

They are afraid if Holt. His ancestors Invaded once and took a long time to leave. They don't want a repeat.

The Dutch invaded Britain? I never knew that

Regards, Geert

gwyddion wrote:

RCSignals wrote:

jasonalun wrote:

Indiana Holt wrote:I dont know, probably. I think its gone though....

but I must say for the person who is gonna take it if it still there, the sleeves are made wider at the bicep and armhole. I work out so I need this.

I thought custom Westeds weren't returnable. ?

They are afraid if Holt. His ancestors Invaded once and took a long time to leave. They don't want a repeat.

The Dutch invaded Britain? I never knew that

Regards, Geert

stupid

The original question seems to apply to all leather jackets, not one maker or style. That being the case, I can say that OTR has been much kinder to me, and I have had 100% satisfaction on several occassions. But not with Indy jackets. My highest in that case would be 90% satisfaction with OTR Indy's, and only in the case of a US Wings. I own 3, and only one hits that 90% mark.

In terms of custom, I have only twice gotten 100% satisfaction. Both from Magnoli, and one was an Indy jacket. All other custom jackets have fallen far short for one reason or another, and I no longer own any of those. (I'm just looking for an excuse to get another from Mags.)

My OTR's have always fitted better than my customs. I must have an easy shape to fit although sometimes a tall size is in order.

Like Chewie, I can say that my Magnoli jacket is by far the best Indy jacket I've had. I'm a 'normal' sort of shape so off the rack stuff generally fits me well but it's the details in the Magnoli custom jacket that I wouldn't get in an off the rack item.

I'm lucky in that most OTR's fit me very well, including the 42 R Wested Raiders Goat I have. For the price it is a real bargin.

However I also own A Wested Custom LC in horsehide and that is my favorite. Going custom allowed me to ask Peter to add a bit more room around the chest for layers in the winter, two zipped internal pockets to keep light fingers away from my stuff and some gussets. Apart from that I had no long spec list apart from a visual reference to Marc's pockets on this jacket and the collar Peter used in his submission for CS. Oh... and I have my name inside.

I have always worn OTR jackets and never had a problemb with any, but I recently got a custom raiders from wested and I love it. perfect fit and feel, but the only customizing was chest, back, and arm measurments and the rest is whatever they normally do. the only thing that even halfway bugs me is the left hand zip. the next one I get, I will probably ask for an "American style" zip even though it's not screen accurate.

Brett wrote: the only thing that even halfway bugs me is the left hand zip. the next one I get, I will probably ask for an "American style" zip even though it's not screen accurate.

After having Westeds for more than ten years, I can't even use a right-hand zip anymore without wrestling with it. I look like a monkey trying to open a bag of potato chips. I got used to it rather quickly. It's amazing how the brain can be rewired.

My Westeds are all custom (and old), and they all fit great. The old stock Todd's Standard fits me perfectly. I can wear a "XL" or an "XXL" and they both feel like they were made for me. The newer stock Standards are a different case, there isn't a size that fits. I know it's just me, because plenty of members here are perfectly happy with their newer stock Standards. I have two of the old "Disney" jackets too. They ran really large and the size that fit me best was a "S". Overall, I would say my experiences with otr vary quite a bit.

Brett wrote:I have always worn OTR jackets and never had a problem with any, but I recently got a custom raiders from wested and I love it. perfect fit and feel, but the only customizing was chest, back, and arm measurments and the rest is whatever they normally do. the only thing that even halfway bugs me is the left hand zip. the next one I get, I will probably ask for an "American style" zip even though it's not screen accurate.

This pretty much sums it up for me as well. I've owned a few OTR leather jackets over the years, but I'm a 44L so I'd either have to settle for a normal fit around the torso and sleeves shorter than I'd like, or go up a size and get good sleeve length on an otherwise baggy jacket.

My custom Wested (RotLA in Novapelle), on the other hand, fits exactly how I wanted it to. It looks a little big on me, but it's the best fitting and most comfortable jacket I've ever owned. The left-hand zip took some getting used to, but I rarely zip my jackets anyway so it really isn't an issue. Still, there are times when...

DeWayne wrote:I look like a monkey trying to open a bag of potato chips.

Has anyone noticed whether there is any difference between the quality of Wested "custom-made in the UK" as compared to Wested "off-the-rack" imported jackets?
None of my own leather jackets are custom made, just a mix of U.S. made and imported from various Asian nations.
The workmanship of some of the imported jackets is simply exquisite, better in SOME (though not all) details than my U.S. made jackets.

Well, I've seen this question before over the years, and still have to say it's subjective.

As I've aged, in my 'early years' I found just about anything worked for me....with the exception that I had problems finding size 42 jackets with 25 inch sleeves. They always seemed to be 24 inch standard.

As I've aged, and gained that proverbial dreaded 'tire' around the middle from sitting for almost 18 years at the same desk and job, OTR still 'works', but it's a 'make work' type thing for me. I'm finding a 44T works well (even a 44R if length is the key) for arm length, and getting material around that middle age 'spread' comfortably. I can still wear a 42, but it works better with just a shirt and NOT for any kind of layering....but there's still that dang 25 inch sleeve problem....

So, right now I'm finding custom works the very best, as it addresses ALL aspects of my size, weight and body shape. Rather than 'making do' with what I can get, I know the jacket I pull out the closet fits over what it was specifically DESIGNED to fit...ME!

Rather than purchasing an item that's designed to fit on 'a' person....a custom is made to fit on 'THAT' person. The same argument can be made for an off the shelf hat, or a custom made hat. It just fits better.

OTR can still be worn, and worn just fine....but custom is the best way for me now.

Regards! Michaelson