Club Obi Wan

wested spits out new jackets, and in a much better design than ever.
I got this one last week.


well done wested!

The only problem is that it is 1,5 inch too short
Time to order a new one.......

I was about to say, GREAT looking jacket, but once you've experienced the regular 'ride up' in the sleeves, those sleeve cuffs will be up around your elbows!



Regards! Michaelson

I have yet to experience ride up on my 2005 Wested.

You're a rare bird if you haven't, VP. You must have received a jacket with correct sleeve length from the 'get-go', as ALL jacket sleeves 'ride up', no exceptions. This is no 'opinion' or 'theory', just plain fact.

It occurs at the elbow in the leather gathering due to the bend of your elbow. All jackets will lose up to an inch in original/new length in that location once broken in...that is, unless you never bend your arms.

Ask any tailor/jacket maker. They'll tell you the same thing.

Regards! Michaelson

Rudolph, you say this one is a different design, better than previous ones. What is different?

Michaelson wrote:You're a rare bird if you haven't, VP. You must have received a jacket with correct sleeve length from the 'get-go', as ALL jacket sleeves 'ride up', no exceptions. This is no 'opinion' or 'theory', just plain fact.

It occurs at the elbow in the leather gathering due to the bend of your elbow. All jackets will lose up to an inch in original/new length in that location once broken in...that is, unless you never bend your arms.

Ask any tailor/jacket maker. They'll tell you the same thing.

Regards! Michaelson

Interesting. I have never had that experience myself over 25 years and dozens of leather jackets. I have had jackets that seem to stretch in the sleeves a couple of times, but that's another story.

CM wrote:Interesting. I have never had that experience myself over 25 years and dozens of leather jackets. I have had jackets that seem to stretch in the sleeves a couple of times, but that's another story.

I also have never experienced any significant ride-up in any of my leather jackets...

Could an explanation be that it depends on the width of the sleeve in relation to the thickness of your arms? Ie. closer-fitting sleeves might tend to ride-up more?

I think it's probably more dependent on the thickness of the leather. Thin leather tends to bunch up a bit more- motorcycle jackets never bunch up because the leather is much too thick for those creases to develop. The Raiders look seems to work best with thin leather...

All my jackets are lamb, btw.

CM wrote:Interesting. I have never had that experience myself over 25 years and dozens of leather jackets.

Interesting as well. I've owned dozens of leather jackets for over 36 years+, and they have ALL done it, by every manufacturer and every type hide imaginable but 'roo (that's one I never got hold of before they discontinued import).

Are you saying that every jacket you've owned and worn, there are no wrinkles what so ever at your elbow? For every wrinkle formed in a jacket elbow, that is length taken away from the end of the sleeve. That is 'ride up'.

Personally I've never EVER seen a used/worn leather jacket that had no elbow wrinkles formed from wear. That would be interesting to see.

If anyone is familiar with the old program 'Are You Being Served', that was the running gag, as it is an industry standard. ANYTHING a customer tried on at Grace Brothers that was too long (and some of the examples were hilarious...sleeves 4 to 5 inches too long and the like) was covered with the standard answer "don't worry sir/madam....it will ride up with wear...."

Regards! Michaelson

Just a thought, Michaelson, but perhaps your jackets are responding to the way your body moves ...

Now where have I heard that one before?

Stand real still. I got something fer ya....


Truth is, in my case maybe my whole BODY is 'riding up with wear'.

Regards! Michaelson

"I'M FREE !!"

Sad thing is, I could relate more to Mr. Granger than anyone else on the show.

Regards! Michaelson

djd wrote:I think it's probably more dependent on the thickness of the leather. Thin leather tends to bunch up a bit more- motorcycle jackets never bunch up because the leather is much too thick for those creases to develop. The Raiders look seems to work best with thin leather...

Thickness of the leather, type of leather, etc.
Cowhide does wrinkle and generally holds the wrinkles more readily. If the sleeves wrinkle they will shorten, maybe only slightly but will shorten.
Lamb on the other hand often tends to stretch. Especially shrunken lamb, and even with wrinkles.

To some degree it depends on how soft the leather is (any type) and tanning can have an effect there.

Michaelson , I know that the sleeves tend to be slightly curly on my other jackets they have been 0.5 inch shorter not more
the strange thing about this jacket was that the shoulders were a little higher which I think is good but it made the sleeves shorter than usual.

RCSignals ,I think there are better shoulders that are tighter back and a little higher that allows the shoulder seam push up a bit and make it almost looks like shoulder pads (almost ),and a tighter in this case only 19 inch Yoke seam.

Tundrarider, yes I like a bit shorter sleeves, it´s a custom
and I will probably not kep it, has ordered a new today with 29 inch sleeves an a slightly longer body also.
I really like your nowak ,how long is it in the body and sleeves? I think we are about the same length 6,5..

29'' sleeves

no wonder you feel that those sleeves on your jacket are short. you dont exactly have short arms if you need 29'' sleeves

Indiana Holt wrote:29'' sleeves

no wonder you feel that those sleeves on your jacket are short. you dont exactly have short arms if you need 29'' sleeves

Yepp thats me the long-sleeved man they are 27.5 on the picture 29 on the one I ordered today. ( I hope !)

wow. det var jo veldig langt. lykke til a.. husk å post bilder når du får jakken.

Rudolf wrote:Michaelson , I know that the sleeves tend to be slightly curly on my other jackets they have been 0.5 inch shorter not more
the strange thing about this jacket was that the shoulders were a little higher which I think is good but it made the sleeves shorter than usual.

RCSignals ,I think there are better shoulders that are tighter back and a little higher that allows the shoulder seam push up a bit and make it almost looks like shoulder pads (almost ),and a tighter in this case only 19 inch Yoke seam.

Tundrarider, yes I like a bit shorter sleeves, it´s a custom
and I will probably not kep it, has ordered a new today with 29 inch sleeves an a slightly longer body also.
I really like your nowak ,how long is it in the body and sleeves? I think we are about the same length 6,5..

There is something different looking about the sleeve attachment to the body of the jacket I think. Not sure tehy are higher on the shoulder.
Did you order the sleeves so slim?
I assume they will take it back for you then if you are ordering another?

Rudolf wrote:Michaelson , I know that the sleeves tend to be slightly curly on my other jackets they have been 0.5 inch shorter not more

Re-read my original post. I said 'up to 1 inch'.

.05 inch is within that statement.

Regards! Michaelson

Michaelson wrote:

Rudolf wrote:Michaelson , I know that the sleeves tend to be slightly curly on my other jackets they have been 0.5 inch shorter not more

Re-read my original post. I said 'up to 1 inch'.

.05 inch is within that statement.

Regards! Michaelson

Hmm?( you've experienced the regular 'ride up' in the sleeves, those sleeve cuffs will be up around your elbows!)

Ok, my second....or third post. Up there somewhere.....

Regards! Michaelson

Her it is open and from the front....with dimensions.

the front length is only 21" ? Did you ask for that?

Something is amiss on those measurements, as there is no way there is a 6.5 inch disparity between the sleeve and front lengths. My TN has a 24" front with 26.5" sleeves and that 2.5" difference is just about spot on (and is the same as the original jacket, which has a 23" front with 25.5" sleeves).

that_dog wrote:Something is amiss on those measurements, as there is no way there is a 6.5 inch disparity between the sleeve and front lengths. My TN has a 24" front with 26.5" sleeves and that 2.5" difference is just about spot on (and is the same as the original jacket, which has a 23" front with 25.5" sleeves).

its a deeper collar.

I guess that your jacket From the point where the yoke meets the collar stand (at the neck) to the bottom of the JACKET FRONT is 27 then? In other words one inch longer than my jacket”

I have ordered two inch longer at the new jacket = 28 length + 29 sleeves for my monkey arms

Tundrarider wrote:

Rudolf wrote:I really like your nowak ,how long is it in the body and sleeves? I think we are about the same length 6,5..

Here are the measurements:From the bottom of the collar stand to the bottom of the JACKET BACK is 26”
From the bottom of the collar stand to the bottom of the JACKET FRONT is 24” (Along the zipper edge.)
From the point where the yoke meets the collar stand (at the neck) to the bottom of the JACKET FRONT is 27”
Sleeve length from the top of the yoke (where it meets the sleeve) to the cuff: 26"

If your arm length is truly 27 1/2 " then 29" will probably be just right.

Interesting about the body measurement comparisons: Mine appears to be 3 " longer at the zipper and 4 " longer from the yoke to the bottom of the jacket front.

Thanks for the compliment.



Michael

### then it's true, I have monkey arms
thaks for the info. / Joakim

Michaelson wrote:

CM wrote:Interesting. I have never had that experience myself over 25 years and dozens of leather jackets.

Interesting as well. I've owned dozens of leather jackets for over 36 years+, and they have ALL done it, by every manufacturer and every type hide imaginable but 'roo (that's one I never got hold of before they discontinued import).

Are you saying that every jacket you've owned and worn, there are no wrinkles what so ever at your elbow? For every wrinkle formed in a jacket elbow, that is length taken away from the end of the sleeve. That is 'ride up'.

Personally I've never EVER seen a used/worn leather jacket that had no elbow wrinkles formed from wear. That would be interesting to see.

If anyone is familiar with the old program 'Are You Being Served', that was the running gag, as it is an industry standard. ANYTHING a customer tried on at Grace Brothers that was too long (and some of the examples were hilarious...sleeves 4 to 5 inches too long and the like) was covered with the standard answer "don't worry sir/madam....it will ride up with wear...."

Regards! Michaelson

"I'm free, Captain Peacock..."

I've had wrinkling, but it never appears to make any difference to the sleeve measurements. I've had goat, cow, roo and one or two lamb jacekts. Oh well...

Well, consider this...unless your jacket sleeves are making new material every time you bend your arms, that material has to be coming from somewhere to create those wrinkles. That 'somewhere' is the cuff end of your sleeves.

Regards! Michaelson

Michaelson wrote:

Rudolf wrote:Michaelson , I know that the sleeves tend to be slightly curly on my other jackets they have been 0.5 inch shorter not more

Re-read my original post. I said 'up to 1 inch'.

.05 inch is within that statement.

Regards! Michaelson

.05 inch!?! Now THAT's nit-pickey!

MAN, my bifocals have REALLY played hob today, haven't they?

Well, we do have stitch nazi's around here, so I guess I was thinking of them when I typed that.

Regards! Michaelson

who is the stitch nazi?

Michaelson wrote:Well, consider this...unless your jacket sleeves are making new material every time you bend your arms, that material has to be coming from somewhere to create those wrinkles. That 'somewhere' is the cuff end of your sleeves.

Regards! Michaelson

I've worked it out then; my arms must be shrinking...

CM wrote: "I'm free, Captain Peacock..."

Got a laugh here!

Just to weigh in on this, all my jackets in anything lighter than a thick cow hide have had the ride up effect after a few months and a splash of rain. Usually 1 inch to 1.25 inches. The thick cow hide (Vanson Wolverine X-1 jacket) rode up only .5 inches.

That's a nice jacket. I agree the sleeves look a bit on the short side, as I'm used to seeing jackets ending on your first thumb knuckle, but otherwise, the length looks pretty decent! However, when it comes to length, that really is a subjective topic, and you gotta go with whatever you think looks best for you.

I'd also add a half an inch to the shoulder - they look too fitted for an Indy jacket IMO.

Sorry Rudolf please don't take his the wrong way, it think that jacket is just too tight and short for you.

IMO it needs a little more room in the chest and shoulder, more length in the body, longer sleeves and wider sleeves at that. It actually gives the impression of being about a size too small for you.

I like the pocket proportions and the larger collar diameter.

CM wrote:

Michaelson wrote:Well, consider this...unless your jacket sleeves are making new material every time you bend your arms, that material has to be coming from somewhere to create those wrinkles. That 'somewhere' is the cuff end of your sleeves.

Regards! Michaelson

I've worked it out then; my arms must be shrinking...

I actually laughed out loud on that one, my friend!

Thanks! I needed that today!

HIGH regard! Michaelson

Kt Templar wrote:Sorry Rudolf please don't take his the wrong way, it think that jacket is just too tight and short for you.

IMO it needs a little more room in the chest and shoulder, more length in the body, longer sleeves and wider sleeves at that. It actually gives the impression of being about a size too small for you.

I like the pocket proportions and the larger collar diameter.

it's ok, but I have another jacket in a size larger and it will only result in unnecessary leather under the arms which I do not like.
and the sleeves are the same size that my larger one.

I understand what you mean about the leather under the arms but it also doesn't work to have the jacket too tight. I have a jacket that is high and tight, it is fine when wearing T shirts and Indy shirts. However, if I wear a thin fleece top the armpits cut into my armpits and actually causes chest pain!

It's annoying if the armhole is too low too as it feels like it's somewhere along your bicep.

There are a couple of screen caps that show there is some room in the chest when for wears it too. That pic with his elbow up is misleading and has taken us down the wrong path for a long time. Doing that pulls everything tight and raises the hem level.

One thing that I think might make a difference is the shape of the panel that goes verically down your side, I've noticed that it is sometimes cut fairly parallel | | and sometimes cut more | / or \ / like. When it is more parallel it seems to give a less baggy result.

When I said wider sleeves I mean slightly wider at the bicep, but also wider at the cuff, I don't feel that the sleeves should look sprayed onto the forearms.

Those are all good points Kt. What it really comes down to though is what Joakim wants/likes in the fit of his jacket.