Club Obi Wan

In just over a month I'll be heading into Wested to get sized for a custom jacket. There are simply no excuses this time since I'm actually in the country.

I have honestly spent years debating which specs to go with to the point where I simply couldn't choose and gave up. Ya, I realize how lame that is, but there are simply too many opinions for me to know what I want.

Regardless, I have too choose something. So, I am going to ask (yes, I realize myself and others have asked this many...many times). What are the top 5 custom things one should ask for (and leather recommendation). Please just keep them simple and to the point.

Confirmed Changes:

Fit & Practicality

1. Double inside pockets
2. Cotton silesia lining
3. 919(Chris King/80's/thinner) Pattern
4. Add 1” to length to front of jacket
5.

SAness

1. Pockets - 6.5'' x 7.5''
2.
3.
4.
5.

Leather

1. Goat

I think that I've accepted that ignorance is bliss for the most part and I would much rather have well fitting jacket than every stitch perfect, but there is one thing that I am really concerned about. I own a few vintage suits and I LOVE how the arm holes are small. It creates such a better look IMO. I have been looking at many jacket photos on here and many of them have arm holes that are so large they end at the pockets. This doesn't create that fitted, sleek look that I would like.

Is there anything I can do to get a better cut? Will Wested measure me up and fit the jacket to my body type? Is the "80's cut" better for this?

If I can go into Wested with the top 5 custom changes and a solution for a more fitted jacket, I will be perfectly happy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Jeff

I keep things simple, but the one thing I always requested has been two inside pockets....the one on the left hand side open topped, and the one on the right hand side with a zipper.

Works great for traveling, as you can zip up any valuables in the one, but can access tickets and ida from the open top.

Highly recommended by this writer.

Goatskin, if it will be the 'one true custom jacket' for your use is my vote.

Since you're going to be standing in front of Peter himself, I'd leave everything else up to him.

Regards! Michaelson

Make sure you know what you like in photographs and ideally, can show them to Peter. For instance, if you like a certain pocket size, bring a picture. If you like collars to look a certain way, bring the pic with that look. Same with length, pleat depth, buckles/straps, and so forth.

Like any craftsman, it's easier to know what the customer wants when they can show you. I never try to tell an expert how I want it done, just how I want it to be in the end.

You will, of course, have to post pics of the finished product. Also, since you'll be in the shop, bug him to see all the types of leather first hand before you decide. Best wishes.

OK, you asked for it;

1. Get measured up in person for the best fit (which you are doing).
2. Ask for extra front length. I see so man Westeds that just fall too short, and look silly on everyone but HF.
3. I don't know which side the zipper pull is on in Canada, but ask for that. It will save you much confusion later.
4. Inside pockets. As in more if you want storage or none if you hate filling up your jacket with junk.
5. The type of lining you like best. All satin is slightly cooler and less clingy. However, it does feel uncomfortable in high humidity. It's my favorite. But if you want to wear it more in winter, ask for the cotton body/satin sleeves combo.

6. For screen accuracy, lambskin is the way to go in most cases. However, I agree with Michaelson. Goatskin looks great and will last you about a day short of forever. One warning, though. The dark brown on goat skin can look almost black, so keep that in mind.

How's that? Did I pass the test?

If you are thinking about having only just one jacket to wear and enjoy over the years I would go for....

get measured by peter. tell them about the armholes and slim fit look you want. they can do it.

an extra inside pocket.

cotton silesia lining.

proabably zipper facings( even though I hate the look of them)

and get it in the goatskin they use now. it is SO nice and so lambskin like after it has broken in. really! it doesnt even have the feel of goatskin. it really feels like leather.

or horse..but thats much heavier.

Michaelson wrote:... the one thing I always requested has been two inside pockets....the one on the left hand side open topped, and the one on the right hand side with a zipper.

Works great for traveling, as you can zip up any valuables in the one, but can access tickets and ida from the open top.

Highly recommended by this writer.

I second that! I've done this, too with all my jackets (just had a press stud at the left hand inside pcoket added ).

My choice of hide would be either goatskin or horsehide. I had both and both are really durable. While the goat seems a bit lighter and softer, the horse is tough as nails (definitely a jacket for being dragged behind a truck ).
But I'd leave out the zipper facings, if you decide for goat - at least at my jacket they seem to provoke tha infamous demon roll ...

I, personally, found underarm gussets practial and I asked for additional - hidden - press studs on the stormflap.
Tha'ts all ... not much more to improve at a jacket that works well for so long now, imho.

I think you should bring a notebook and lot's of pictures to show Peter. Sometimes it's easier to understand when looking at the thing rather than just describing it. If you bring a notebook then you can write every detail down or make illustrations of what you want.

Jens wrote: But I'd leave out the zipper facings, if you decide for goat - at least at my jacket they seem to provoke tha infamous demon roll ...

The 'demon roll' can form with or without the zipper facing. They have on mine, so that's not a factor.

Just wanted to toss that out there as things are being discussed and considered.

Regards! Michaelson

Great suggestions so far!

I have been wearing a cotton Raiders for a few years now (I bought it in an attempt to better judge how they fit), and I learned that it always felt a bit short....of course, I'm not sure if this was due to it shrinking, or the fact I was a chubby little monkey. Having lost 30 pounds so far (with 20 more to go) the clothing I have with me fits so drastically different I have no concept of anything now. This is why I'm glad I have the opportunity to go in and get measured.

What I did notice about my cotton version is the arm holes. They always felt big and so whenever I raised my arms the sleeves would slide up and the jacket would "poof" out making me look even more chubby. When I left it undone it helped a little, but the chest always felt so big and material would gather under the arms making it look sloppy.

I do agree that the number one change will be the double pockets. I often wanted something a little more secure, and putting things in the front pockets (mp3 player, phone) would weigh it down strangely and banged into everything. So...I'll update the first post

I'm struggling with the lining. I have a WWII jacket that I love and it has a cotton lining. Some of my suits have satin arms and cotton body, and my cotton Raiders has all Satin. I have never had issue with the Cotton arms, but the satin arms sometimes feel sticky. There were a few times when I was wearing my cotton Raiders where I felt so gross because I got caught in a bit of a rain storm and it felt like I was wearing a garbage bag. Or course....the satin slides on the arm better and makes movement easier which I notice in my suits...

Yes, go and get measured, try and get him to measure you for a shoulder span too, this is one thing he doesn't normally do but I think would be good to make sure.

Don't go on a Monday, Peter doesn't work on Mondays after having covered Saturday. Always call ahead on the day you are planning to turn up to make sure he will be there.

Specs I would ask for:

Small gauge, silver zipper. Ending close to the bottom of the jacket, no zipper facings.

Short yoke, rear arm seams 1" below the yoke.

Correctly proportioned pockets with deeper flap and scalloping (Take a pic).

Narrow pleats (1.25-1.5")

Rectangular sliders OR ToD style buckle (My fave)

Long straps, rectangular anchor points and K box stitches.

Cotton lining, prehaps with the satin sleeves. Look into the nylon on the ToD it is stronger than the satin but doesn't sit quite as tight in the jacket.

As for leather ask to look at what he has, I really like the current washed goat and the as yet unreleased Washed Shrunk Lamb (It's grainy but not 'celled' or merino). But if you want something that is tough get horse.

Current customs seem to be taking a shorter time, if you can allow 3 weeks you should be able to pick it up before you leave. (And better try it on first! for any tweaks).

Argh!!

Ok, maybe I have this all wrong.... (I'm going to update the main post as well) I think I need to determine three things.

1. Jacket fit/practicality
2. SA features
3. Leather

I don't want to walk into Peter's shop and roll out a list of changes that wipes the smile right off his face. My personal goal is to have the most SA jacket within reason, but sacrifice SA for fit if needed. So that is why I am trying to limit it to 10 (+leather). Not only for Peter's sanity, but my own as well. This also limits scope creep which I am prone to.

So perhaps when you guys make suggestions you could keep them in those categories so I can keep them sorted in my head

Just look at what is important to you. I was giving examples of things I would ask for. Feel free to drop anything you don't feel is needed.

Fit is uppermost and there are many in the shop to try on. You never know you may walk out with one on the day.

If it is important to you ask for a British made one (with the flag inside).

Correctly proportioned pockets with deeper flap and scalloping (Take a pic).

Do you have any links to photos?

Current customs seem to be taking a shorter time, if you can allow 3 weeks you should be able to pick it up before you leave. (And better try it on first! for any tweaks).

Gemma emailed me back and said they take about 14 days. I am hoping to pop in, get it going, then do a backpacking trip for a few weeks, go try it on then either get it, or do tweaks. I have to fly out at the end of October so it all has to be figured by then.

Anyone who would like to join me is welcome!

Just look at what is important to you. I was giving examples of things I would ask for. Feel free to drop anything you don't feel is needed.

Fit is uppermost and there are many in the shop to try on. You never know you may walk out with one on the day.

If it is important to you ask for a British made one (with the flag inside).

I just don't know what is important. I have researched it for so long that my confusion makes it almost impossible. Like many of us here I can be a tad OCD when it comes to this stuff. I'm the type of person who sends computers back to the store for one dead pixel (well that and I'm a graphic artist/web developer), so a simple thing like the back panel not meeting up with the yoke can drive me insane!

I know that I definitely want a British made one. I might....might buy and off the rack Last Crusade one as well just as a "adventure jacket" but I do want a custom, British made, touched by Peters magic hands, Raiders Jacket!

Do you have any links to photos?

Last time I posted pockets they turned up on the next 2 repros!

Kt Templar wrote:

Just look at what is important to you. I was giving examples of things I would ask for. Feel free to drop anything you don't feel is needed.

Fit is uppermost and there are many in the shop to try on. You never know you may walk out with one on the day.

If it is important to you ask for a British made one (with the flag inside).

Amen....amen...and AMEN!!!


Regards! Michaelson

KT, or anyone know if he's custom fitting the new 'Hero' style yet ......that might be interesting to consider since you're going to be there for a while........

Hatch wrote:KT, or anyone know if he's custom fitting the new 'Hero' style yet ......that might be interesting to consider since you're going to be there for a while........

Yeah.. if you dont mind asking. I am really interested in his "shrunken lamb" version. A possible ETA would be awesome! Have fun while you are down there!

Note: Peter's current stock of Shrunk Lamb is not a merino so it's pretty smooth.

Looks like this (this is a ToD):

CLM

here is the goatskin.

you can see how lamb like it is. very comfortable. very strong and very soft.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g182/ ... CF4093.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g182/ ... CF4098.jpg

Peters "Shrunken Lamb" looks great! That looks like it could be the perfect Raiders type leather (I prefer the smooth leather personally). Hopefully this jacket option is available soon, or we hear some more information on it.

Holt, your Raiders goat jacket looks great in those pics! You can see how it is very similiar to lamb.

yeah, I really like the look of that shrunken lamb!

Holt, that Lamb looks awesome!!

Does Peter currently offer that leather?

its not lamb. its goatskin. the new soft goatskin as peter calls it.

so yes..it does look like lamb.. it can fool you..

Is that your jacket Holt?

If you have a sec, would you mind posting the specs?

yes thats my jacket. Its the 'Holt' jacket I got last year.

you can find my thread somewere a few pages back. its called ''IMO let me introduce the most SA wested raiders jacket''

as for the specs.... you said you needed at least 5 points of Sa ness. my specs is about 30 points...

I remember that post now...it had a lot of fanfare over the collar. I figured I would look at the specs and see what stood out for me. I love the pocket size on that jacket.

the pockets are 6.5'' x 7.5''

Kt Templar wrote:Note: Peter's current stock of Shrunk Lamb is not a merino so it's pretty smooth.

Looks like this (this is a ToD):

I was wondering what a ToD would look like in that leather... interesting, maybe a bit too much texture for a ToD, but still... tempting.

Kt Templar wrote:

Do you have any links to photos?

Last time I posted pockets they turned up on the next 2 repros!

Really? Which ones?

Ok, I'm still working out my final set of specs...

I have another question though. I am considering getting an off-the-rack jacket as well while I'm there. What would you all recommend as the best choice?

Other than Raiders or LC and leather type, aren't all the of-the-racks the same?

Ok, back from hiking. 40 pounds lighter, and ready for a Wested!

I am heading in tomorrow (Wednesday, 7th) so I need to spend today finalizing what I am wanting.

If anyone has any last minute advice, I would appreciate it!

Yes, phone ahead before you set out to make sure Peter is in.

Kt Templar wrote:Yes, phone ahead before you set out to make sure Peter is in.

I emailed Gemma, she knows I'm coming and assured me Peter was in all day.