Club Obi Wan

Probably sounds weird, me reviewing what we have made for us, the factory CS. But, until this morning, I had seen only pics. Marc had offered to send me one early on, but I knew he had the right block, and I had seen pics of the work that was coming from this factory, ie. the Henry. So, I said, no, go ahead and run with it.

I must admit though, I was quite pleased when he decided to send me one anyways, although the hat has been around now for quite some time. Plus, it was free!! Thanks Marc!

The Henry is everything that has been said here about it. What impressed me at first was the blockshape is exactly what was used in the film hats. It took the crease easily and I instantly had a CS fedora. The specs were right, the felt feels like beaver, although is only 20 per cent. I think 20 per cent is what is needed to give any felt the expensive feel that beaver felt has. Marc was absolutely correct when he told me he used the CS block. I slid it over the next smaller block, of the CS line, and the it fit it like a glove. So, exact same blockshape.

Not only has AB copied the CS hat but this is one of the finest factory made hats I have seen. It reminds me more of what hats used to be, back in the old days. They even put the retaining stitches low on the ribbon, to hold it to the hat. The attention to the bow is exceptional, considering it came from a factory. Looks like one I could of made at one time. The white plain liner is like the film hat, at least in color. The sweatband is very soft, and is very vintage like, as any vintage hat owner can tell if they ever see a factory AB.

The only weak point is the factory does not flare the reeded sweats, just like you see in the Christy and HJ. Our leather is much better, but still that is the one weak point of this hat. I can find no other ones though,

I think we can honestly win any shootout with any other mass produced hat, and that was our aim from the get go. So, kudos to my friend Marc, whom I trusted, and he did not let me down.

I don't have alot of time, spare time that is, but I threw a quick CS crease into the hat, and snapped this one. Now, on my monitor, the hat appears red, but I can see no red in the undertone, even in the sunlight. So, my cam must be going out.



I then, turned the hat a little bit, and threw in a quick Raiders pinch. All of these pics make the hat look elongated, but it is only 5 inches tall, brim 2 3/4 by 2 1/2. Here is a fast Raider pinch. I will refine it later, as I wear it!



I then sat on the hat, to see how the felt would react to distressing. I sat on it, popped it out and took this one from behind.



Going by what one crush did to the bow side of the hat, I think it will distress out well, due to the rabbit content.

I am gonna treat it with water repellant and then abuse the heck out of it, in rain, etc, to see how she holds up. I will keep you updated on what you can expect from this hat, in the long term. Fedora

Agreed with everything you said. I absolutely love my Henry. It is beyond comfortable, takes a bash easily, has a beautiful color, and a wonderful texture. I'm glad to see you finally got your hands on one!

I'm glade to see that you finally got to see one up close and personal. If I knew that I would have sent you one my friend.

Upon looking at the sweatband again, I noticed there is a slight flare to the reed. I am just used to seeing much more flare, so I did not look close enough.

I wish they still had those international factory hatmaking contest like they used to. We would sure enter this one in it. I am really amazed at what Marc got this factory to do and to make for us. We don't use their own felt, as Marc has Portugal to ship our felt to them. They only make rabbit felt I think, various grades, and that is what you see on HJs and Christies. The folks from Portugal make the finest felt in the world today. And they should, since these guys are from a long line of hatmakers and feltmakers. Continuity is important when it comes to felt. If your family made that old fine felt of yesteryear, chances are, they still know how to make it. Fedora

Glad you like it so much my friend

As I said before, the factory already had this block handy and I was told it's an older block they used for HJ many years ago. When I heard that, I IMMEDIATELY got an exclusive on it, plus a full set of block made, as they didn't have them in all sizes.

Wear it in good health my friend!

Regards,

Marc

As I said before, the factory already had this block handy and I was told it's an older block they used for HJ many years ago. When I heard that, I IMMEDIATELY got an exclusive on it, plus a full set of block made, as they didn't have them in all sizes.

Wow. They already had my CS block in stock? I am speechless. It fit over my block perfectly! Fedora

It fit over my block perfectly!

I just did the test again, and this time I noticed the felt fit the block, but it actually had to stretch a bit to do it. I found out by pulling it down slowly, and watched the crown as I did so. SO, there is a little difference in the blockshape, but nothing drastic.

I have worn this hat for a few days and it settled in to a very nice Raven hat, by itself. And as time tends to do, I have noticed that while it is 20 per cent beaver, it moves like rabbit. But feels like beaver. Not a bad combo. And is very soft and floppy, which makes it very comfortable to wear.

This hat may be what we send IF Indy 5 comes about. The workmanship is good enough that it would be hard to tell it from the Indy 4 hats. And it makes a better Raiders fedora than the CS block does. Something we must decide on IF that comes to pass. Or rather, let Bernie decided. We might have to just swap out the sweats is all. For color sake only. Kinda like what we think Swales did. Bespoke the first one, and then use a factory hat for the next one. Ours would be so close, you would not see the change as we saw from Raiders to TOD. Plus, this factory does a great job on the flying v bow. Looks like one I make, at least on the Henry that Marc sent to me.

Then with it being a factory AB, lead times would be no problem and the pricing would be better. Just depends if we see alot of water in the next fim. Water demands pure beaver. But being less dense, the rabbit blend would be cooler to wear in the heat. I am sure Harrison would appreciate that!! Fedora

Fedora,

We all had this very conversation on the Indy 5 hat thread. I thought that using the Henry would be the most logical choice in terms of #'s needed for a film, quality, and availability both in Europe and the U.S. I think its funny that you came to the same conclusion after wearing it a few days. I would love to see a pic of your Raven Bar Henry on your head. I received a Penman Raiders in beaver last week and want to see if I "nailed it."

Matt

You REALLY seem to like that lid or yours there my friend Honestly, I didn't think that you'd enjoy a non pure beaver Fedora that much, so that is a high praise!

Looks like one I make, at least on the Henry that Marc sent to me.

I didn't even TOUCH it Steve. I just opened up the box to double check the size and flipped it back in the box, so I could ship it next day. That was it.

Regards,

Marc

I believed that the Henry is a great value for the money. John seems to be selling a ton of them....that is, if it is possible to sell a ton of felt! I was a little surprised by the sweat, very thin but very comfortable. Great to read this kind of insight into the Henry and its potential future possibilities.

You REALLY seem to like that lid or yours there my friend Honestly, I didn't think that you'd enjoy a non pure beaver Fedora that much, so that is a high praise!

Yeah, I do like it alot. It is just so darn soft and floppy! Now, that is seen generally more in rabbit hats, and I am not used to seeing a hat that feels like beaver fur, act like rabbit! So, I am quite taken with it, plus it is summer and it is a cooler wearing hat than my pure beaver. I noticed that right away.

When I pick it up, (and I have done this alot in the past few days) the first thing I see is that screen accurate Raiders bow. The folks that do the bow work did such a great job!! I am just not used to seeing this on a factory hat!! HOW did you get this pulled off??? My limited experience with a factory trying to reroduce the CS fedora was, well, less than satisfactory. (as you well know about Marc)

So, while I had seen pics of our factory AB, I really never was that excited about it, due to my past experience with modern factory hats. But, holding one in hand, and wearing it, has completely changed my mind. Again, you have amazed me, with your attention to detail, not to mention the fact that you actually got a factory to do exactly what you wanted!!! I think part of this is due to our factory being a remnant of the old days. One that survived the demise of hatwearing. They apparently still never lost the skills of producing a great factory hat. Is this hat as good as a vintage high end Stetson? No. But, it is the best modern factory hat I have seen to date, and that pleases me. And then the only difference is just the pounce job. The old Stetson Company pounced their high end hats better, so ours is more along the lines of a Royal line from Stetson, back when Stetson was really Stetson. (prior to the leasing of the name in 1970)

Yes, the sweat bands are thin, and soft, but this was the factory standard in vintage hats!! This is the most vintage like sweat I have seen, in modern hats, Sweats are generally made thicker today, for some reason. If I could get these, I would have used these sweats in my own hats, from day one! But, this leather is not available here, in the USA. Or, I have never found the source. There are only 3 major sweatband manufacturers here in the States. And I think one went under, so that leaves 2! And the sweat is one of the things that I love about our factory hat. Might have to see if we can get choc. brown if Bernie will use these, just to match up with the CS sweats. Or, we could all meet here, and just change out the sweats for Indy 5, IF that ever happens. And while we were at it, make sure each bow is identical, although that doesn't look to be a problem going by this hat here, and the ones I have seen posted here. Good consistency.

Of course, being 80 per cent rabbit, this hat acts more like the Raiders felt than pure beaver, but that is nothing new. We all know that. And that impressed me as well. Because if you just grab it, any experienced hat wearer would immediately think, it is beaver. They were right(Portugal) when he told you, it takes a min of 20 per cent beaver to get the beaver "feel". This hat proves that. So, kudos to you once again! Plus adding the beaver makes for a better felt too. Blends were used heavily back in the old days, and it was an art form to get just the right mix. And we both know that Portugal has one of the best mixers in the biz. The guy who mixes the various furs is an artist, in the hat industry. It is indeed an art, as we both know.

Another thing that grabbed my attention is, while the pounce job could be better, it is very screen accurate to the Raiders fedora, in degree of pounce, from the hi def pics I have seen recently of the Raiders fedora. The hatters here, pounce our hats better than factory hats, as the both of us learned early on that high end hats have better pounces. And our handmade creations were intended to take a step back in time in so far as quality of materials, attention to detail, and the pounce. When the new hatters came on board, like LLS, and John, they basically learned from you and I, and carried that torch. So, I would not change the way the factory pounces these hats, but only because it matches the screen hats better, and afterall, we are selling replicas of the Indy hats. (with the exception of the CS fedoras which we did do the extra pouncing on) And I know what we pay this factory for each hat, and it is already high enough! But part of our much higher production costs is probably because we have the Portugal felt shipped in to our factory, and don't use their felt. (another kudos to you for doing this!!) This makes our Henry even more of an anomaly, in so far as factory hats go. The Henry is indeed a custom made factory hat, no doubt about that.

We all had this very conversation on the Indy 5 hat thread. I thought that using the Henry would be the most logical choice in terms of #'s needed for a film, quality, and availability both in Europe and the U.S. I think its funny that you came to the same conclusion after wearing it a few days.

One thing about me, is I will change my mind, and don't mind being seen as wishy washy, when I discover I was wrong initially. My initial opinon was based on the modern factory hats I have seen, in hand. I just did not think any factory could give us what we wanted, with Marc's high standards. Of course, IF Indy 5 happens, the decision will be left up to Bernie. But, I will send him a Henry, to get his opinion, with the upside being, he could have them all at one time, instead of piecemeal like the Indy 4 fedora. So, the fate of the Henry, will be in his hands, not ours. But, personally, it is of such high quality, that this factor won't keep him from using it. And if the film is hot, and less wet, it would be a perfect hat to use. THAT, I shall tell him . And the fact that I got the CS fedora easily from this block, won't be a factor either. The Henry, from my limited experience, makes a dandy Raiders fedora, and is better for that style than the CS block. I only saw that, once the hat settled a bit from a few days of wear. Yes, hats do settle in, as most know. I have really noticed this on our CS hats. They have to settle in, to get the film look, in most scenes from that film. Only some scenes show a new looking CS, in shape. And those scenes were shot when Bernie was not on set, constantly working the film hats. I have no doubt, the hats would have been more consistent, if Bernie had been on set on those days. And he even mentioned it to me, later on. He was well aware of this, so he must have been watching the hat along with us, when he finally saw the completed film. It bothered him.

I could go on and on about our factory hat, but I think I have said more than enough. This hat isn't a big profit maker for us at all, due to the production costs. We could make more money, just not having it, and selling the handmade versions, but at least, it does have a decent price on it, and that gives the folks on a budget an opportunity to own an AB, that is an outstanding hat. If Indy hats are your thing. But more than that, I am just so pleased that Marc did the work and got us a factory hat that should set standards for factory hats. I really feel that our Henry does that. I have to admit, I was not convinced, UNTIL, I finally got to actually see one. I have not had great experiences with other factory hats, except the Federations. I always liked them, and thought for the money, it was the best bargain in the Indy universe. It still is, due to the materials used, and its pricing. But if you want to step up, and spend a bit more, we have the hat for you. I don't see how anyone could not be very pleased with the Henry. But, it will please the experienced hat wearers the most. Folks who have seen what modern factories offer. Fedora

Great Fedora...after a post like that and from someone like you...I'm torn even more on my hat decision... Thanks for the review.

Now, I'm no expert (there's an understatement ), but I thought that "the Henry" was was a Raiders hat... that's what I read a couple of years back, anyway.

If you go through the thread where the Henry was first discussed, it was intended to be a CS hat. When Marc found this factory, they had THE Raiders block. If Marc says so, I believe him. This is how I understand it. I could be wrong. So, why not use that block. It still makes a great CS hat, as we all can see.

Dave

When Marc found this factory, they had THE Raiders block. If Marc says so, I believe him.

Or what he percieved it to be. I must confess, I have not kept up with the Henry threads, so you guys know more about it than I do!

I think the factory told Marc that the block used for the Henry was a block once used to make some HJs. And I think Marc then thought perhaps this WAS the Raiders block, or close to it. But, my first impression of it was it was a CS block, as it looks so similiar. And I do see some differences in the Raiders blockshape, and the CS blockshape. The CS is a straighter sided hat, IMO. It is hard to get a CS hat to look tapered, like some of the Raider fedoras. But this is just an opinion. Regardless, this block used for the Henry does make a good looking Raiders fedora. And also a CS fedora. So perhaps the block actually lies between these two hats, and that is why it pulls off both looks. Fedora

I noticed the difference in block shapes the minute I put your CS hat on my head. It was much straighter. It actually took a few days to get used to the shape. It is a very full crown. Since, then, I think it has become my favorite block shape...after the gre CS hat.

I have read Marc write that the Henry block is the Raiders block and also what you wrote, that he was told this block was once used for HJ. It is also my understanding that he was able to procure it exclusively for the Henry so it is now an AB only block.

Dave

I think the factory told Marc that the block used for the Henry was a block once used to make some HJs. And I think Marc then thought perhaps this WAS the Raiders block, or close to it.

Correct Sir!

When I sent in one of our CS Fedoras, so the manufacturer could have a look, he called me up and told me, that after having a closer look at it, the (open) crown shape looked almost IDENTICAL to a block they had had for many many years. That's when I went So I asked, if they had made hats for HJ in the past, which was confirmed. Also that this block was used for HJ's many years ago was confirmed. So... I asked him to make a prototype on the old HJ block and upon receiving the first Henry prototype, I figured that it COULD be IT, however no-one can actually tell for sure if this is really THE block, hence I don't use it for advertising on my website. The Henry prototype took both the CS and the Raiders crease very well and I got an exclusive on that block shape, of which a full set was then made.

Regards,

Marc

Thanks for clearing that up.

Dave

I noticed the difference in block shapes the minute I put your CS hat on my head. It was much straighter. It actually took a few days to get used to the shape. It is a very full crown.

Yes it does have a very full crown, doesn't it? The block has no taper on the sides and lots of meat for deep creases on the front.

This blockshape really looks better if you drop the front to 4 1/2 and the back to 4, and from viewing the film again a couple days ago, I see hats that look to be dropped lower than others. And those hats look better to me, personally when compared to the higher creased hats. I think the more Bernie steamed and put creases back in, the better the hat looks. Which is a good thing, because even after a CS fedora develops a bit of taper, they still look good, and still film accurate. I have noticed that with my own CS, it really did not start looking right until a week or so later, after it had settled in somewhat. And of course I fiddled with it too, as one tends to do, working on getting the top crease deeper, without raising up the front or back height of the creases. That's the trick, as Bernie said he spent alot of time on the top crease in most of the hats. You do see shallow top creases in the film, but also deeper top creases as well. Fedora

I normally don't stray into The Fedora part of this site but this is a great thread, full of useful information. Has anyone had a Henry shipped to Australia?