Club Obi Wan

What are Morgan, Strain, Stenhouse, EM and others using for the bases of their handles? Does anyone know? Or if any of you pro whipmakers read this, are you willing to share the info? Nail spikes, pipes, wood dowels, etc.?

I'd like to get an understanding of how the different bases give a different feel to the whips.

EDIT:
Well, it looks like the 8" Nail/Spike/Steel Rod is the winner. Thanks for all of the input, gentlemen. I appreciate it.

I know Morgan uses 8" nail spikes, and that's what I've been using on mine.

Are you sure they don't use platinum bars? It certainly would explain the prices some of them charge!
I'm only kidding, I realize that a lot of work goes into each one.

I use the 8 inch nail on my Indys. I also have 10 and 12 inch nails for the longer handled Aussie bulls. I also use an arrowshaft for the Aussie style bulls which give them a lighter, more of a stockwhip feel for target and multiple cracking. Mike Murphy gave me that idea.

Jim

I use an 8" nail spike on the indys that I make. I know that Joe Strain and David Morgan do so as well. Im sure quite a few others do too. From my experience the steel nail works well in balencing out the thong weight and alows the use of less lead in the knot for balencing.

Regards,

Paul Nolan
MidWestWhips

I use 1/4" x 8' steel rod for the Indy style, and for the Aussie bullwhips, it is 10" to 12" long. If I shot-load the thong, the rod is encased in the end of the shot bag.

For the long handled bullwhips, I use 16" graphite golf club shaft. This gives a taper from butt knott to fall hitch. They work great for multicracking. I load the butt end with lead wool for balance. Usually around 80 grams or so for a 6' whip.

Jerry Rasmussen,
Corpus Christi, TX

Hey guys,
After ive made my first whip i really
still dont understand why a nail is used?
I used a nail for my first whip and it seemed
like it made the end of the handle bumpy even
if i pulled as hard as i could on the strand.
Is there anyone who can take a picture of the
belly of the whip being attached to the nail and
also take a picture of the overlay being attached.
May i ask....why not use wood or fiberglass?
it just seems to me like a nail handle would
not be best. Just because thats the regular
way, it does not always mean its the best way.
Mola

Molorom wrote:Hey guys,
After ive made my first whip i really
still dont understand why a nail is used?
I used a nail for my first whip and it seemed
like it made the end of the handle bumpy even
if i pulled as hard as i could on the strand.
Is there anyone who can take a picture of the
belly of the whip being attached to the nail and
also take a picture of the overlay being attached.
May i ask....why not use wood or fiberglass?
it just seems to me like a nail handle would
not be best. Just because thats the regular
way, it does not always mean its the best way.
Mola

Wood or fiberglass is fine, but if you're going to make an Indy whip with good weight to it, wood and fiberglass just won't do the job. As far as the bump goes, you need to file down the end of the nail a bit because the tip of the nail tends to be a little wider than the rest of the nail. A bench grinder or a good sturdy steel file will do the job. Just keep working at making those whips, and you'll eventually find what works best for you.

Regards,
Jim

So does this mean I could entirely grind
off the head of the nail? It seemed like
another problem to me was that even though
the nail I used for my last whip had the tip
grinned round it still broke through the leather
and the core. It disappointed me very much because
this was a kit I had purchased from Robert duke and
after I had plaited the belly the nail broke through the
leather and the sinew holding the core on and messed
up my plaiting and I had to un do the plaiting that
i had done and completely redo the work and attach
the core on again and make sure that it was strong enough.
Then after the whip was done and I had cracked it for a
few weeks (I did not use excessive pressure, not to mention
that whip cracked loudly!) Taking the correct care needed to
maintain the whip, the plaiting loosed and I realized that
even though I had attached the core very strongly and it
seemed good to me like it would last along time, the
nail had again broke through and wrecked all of my work.
For some reason I believe it is a craftsmanship issue due to
that fact that I looked at the nail again and I realized that
Robert had not completely rounded the nail and it still had
a small sharp tip which could penetrate any of my work.
Not sure it this is true or if this is just what happens when
You use a nail handle foundation, as this was my first whip.
Now I am forced to undo the entire whip and attach it
to a wooden handle and re plait it. I have not done this
yet, but this is mostly why i had asked this question,
just because it seems good does not mean its the correct
way to do things.
Mola

I had the opportunity to un-plait one of my first whips because the taper was way off. It was a good experience in how things fit together inside. I learned a little, but it was a lot of work.

Make sure that you make the tip of the nail nice and round in addition to filing down the diameter. It's very strange that it broke through everything on you. How are you making and attaching the core?

Jim

Molorom wrote: It seemed like
another problem to me was that even though
the nail I used for my last whip had the tip
grinned round it still broke through the leather
and the core....Mola

Mola,

It seems to me that you did not bind the belly on to the core and the handle at the thong/handle junction. Whipmakers almost always will bind their bellies at this point to prevent the floppy noodle syndrome that occurs with so many whips. This gives a lot of strength to this naturally weak area of the whip. Otherwise after a while I can very well see a nail goin thru the whip, and especially on a single belly, no bolster whip that you made.
Regarding your bumpy handle I can only guess that you never put a turkshead on it since the only pics that I have seen were with a whip with no turksheads. You should have at least one turkshead on the knob or you will have an ugly stump down there to hold onto and that is not too comfortable either.

Another thing is from your pics it did not look like you had skived the strands as you will normally get a nice color change as in any cowhide laces when skived right.

At least you are getting a lot of plaiting experience on this whip kit.

Being the age of 12, I must say that I am very proud of you.

Believe me ALL whipmakers have their trials, troubles and tribulations and you will hopefully learn from them. I'm still learning

ok,
PropReplicator sorry I took over your post. Well I guess I did something very wrong then, because I attached the belly directly below the head of the nail. I used the same meathead here on the tip of the nail by wrapping it with leather. The only problem was that the tip was still a little sharp and I also attached the core on by sticking it in with the protective cover of the leather. Another thing was that I did not have enough plaiting soap at the time and I was using it marginally, because it came with the kit and I did not know how much to use then. Only towards the end of the overlay when I was running out of leather dressing did I realize how much I should use and how hard to pull to make a good tight braid on the whip. Wow, stupid me I had no idea, all this time I was going all over the place looking for leather and buying it online when only did I find out that there is a Tandy leather shop 15 minutes from my house Well I also realized awhile later that I was skiving the strands wrong. I’m going to go to Tandy tomorrow and buy a skiving tool to make it a little bit easier. Is there a skiving tool off of their site that anyone would recommend or has used before? is the Super Skiver #302500 any good? After I buy a tool tomorrow I am then going to make a batch of Whip Conditioner and Plaiting Soap which Robert Duke so kindly gave me the basics on how to make them. By the way Robert, can I use the same leather you sent me for the whip to make falls with? I have quite a bit of good-sized fall type scraps left. Mike I’m very interested in having a look at your whips, just 1 picture maybe? Im also soon going to make a matched 4 plait basic stock whip set and a 4 plait belly 6 plait overlay bullwhip. I have a hide from scott martin that is on its way.
Kindest Regards
Mola

Mola, that's no problem at all. I'm sorry to hear about all of your woes in whipmaking, but I am learning TONS from this thread. Thanks!!

Take a look at this link Mola,it might help.
http://www.em-brand-whips.com/bullwhiptutorial.htm
Keep trying mate it isn't easy,practice,practice.practice.
Kind regards
Bernie.

I stopped at tandy just the other day and picked up a french edging knife, im not sure if this is any good for skiving though because i can not get it at a good angle where it will skive like i want it to. Is there a better tool to skive with that can be put at more of an angle? Bernie i look at that page quite a lot now, it really explains it quite well i quickily figured out why my whip became like a limp noodle. Hopefully my next whip will be better, my hide from scott martin should come tomorrow so i will first be making a matched pair of basic stock whips. Because i am just starting out do you think its alright for me to be cutting my leather with shears? Im glad you like my website, there are pictures of my whip up there now. http://omarswhipbazaar.150m.com
Mola

Hi Mola,
I have a little skiving tool, that I got a long time ago, that worked really well for me at the time,
(before I got that awesome beverling tool from Bernie)
called the Safety Beveler #300100 here's a little info on it,

( Shaped to prevent cutting leather too deeply and skives leather easily. Splices leather lace safely and with precision. Blade included.)

Found at Tandy leather.


Cheers's!

Jim J.

Hello!

This is my first post on the Club Obi-Wan! I have been making whips for about 15 years. I live in Nothern California (Sacramento) and have just put up my first page for my new website - www.totally-whipped.com
In the future, I plan to have a page on the step-by-step process I use to make my bullwhips.

But since I don't have that page up yet, I wanted to share what I use for my handle base. It's a 10-inch 3/8-inch steel spike that has the end ground down and shaped.

It's great to be a part of this group!
Guy

Hi there Whip Miester...
Nice to see you here!
I have been making whips for 1 year so far....Well i have only made 1 whip but i have reasearched and read A LOT on the subject and practice my braiding with nylon cord as it can be used over and over again with out keeping its winded shape, and at the moment i know up to a 12 plait. I believe i am probaly one of the youngest whip makers in the world! ( though i know a few of the kids of whipmaker make whips also) i am only in the 7th grade, So i dont have a steady cash flow and can only get about 3 hides a year. I just ordered a Hide from scott Martin of Martin Whips Aust. and it should come any day now.
Kindest Regards
Mola
WELCOME TO ~COW~

Thanks Molorom!

Whipmeister