Club Obi Wan

Hi fellow gearheads - I just got some money back in taxes and I finally have the money I need to order a custom Raiders Wested.

But I really wanna check out the specs with you guys before ordering one, just to see if everything is okay. I want the jack to be SA, but it doesn't have to be super SA like Holt's jacket.

These are the specs I've gotten for the jacket:

1. Leather:
Authentic Brown Lampskin
2. Pattern:
919(Chris King/80's/thinner) Pattern
3. Lining:
Cotton Sliesia lining/body and sleeves
4. Zipper:
5 gauge aluminium zipper with small sipper pull that extends to the bottom of the
jacket.
5. Leather Facing:
NO leather facing on the zipper.
6. Storm Flap:
1.5" (3.8cm) width - rounded top corner.
7. Collar Stand:
Leather Collar Stand
8. "Holt" Collar:
2.75"(7cm) on the tips, tapering down to 2.5"(6.4cm).
The left collar should also extend to the midway point of the top of the storm flap, or 0.75"
(1.9cm) from the edge of the flap.
Collar ending halfway between zipper and stormflap.
9. Right Pocket:
1.5"(3.8cm) from zipper seam (edge of jacket)
2" (5.1cm) from bottom.
Width of pocket: 6.00" (15.25cm)
Length of pocket:(including flap) 7.5" (19.1cm)
Scalloped pocket flap.
Pocketflap length in middle of flap: 2.75" (7cm)
Aluminium or nickel snap.
10. Left pocket:
1" (2.25cm) from zipper seam (edge of jacket)
2" (5.1cm) from bottom.
Width of pocket: 6.00" (15.25cm)
Length of pocket:(including flap) 7.5" (19.1cm)
Scalloped pocket flap.
Pocketflap length in middle of flap: 2.75" (7cm)
Aluminium or nickel snap.
11. Side strap:
Length: 7.75(19.7cm)
Width: 1" (2.25cm)
12. Side Strap Buckles:
Black or Gunmetal Rectangular Buckles
13. Side vent stitch:
NO stitch holding the side vents closed.
14. Pleat depth:
1.40" (33.5cm)
15. Yoke seam:
The arm seam should be 1" (2.25cm) BELOW the yoke seam.
16. Back panel:
The back panel should extend all the way out to the sleeve seam.
17. Inside pocket:
Only left side, slit(less leather) pocket
18. Underarm gussets:
No gussets

Jacket size: 44 (XL)
Sleeve Length: 27,5"
Back Length: 26"

[notice: I found these specs somewhere on these forums, but I don't remember who's specs it actually is. I hope it's allright for me to use them]

So, I just wanna know if I'm good to go or if I've made some terrible error that needs fixing.

Just roll the dice, see what comes up...
Honestly, the specs are great, but more often than not it's luck that determines how the actual jacket turns out!
Good luck with this and your next jacket(s)!

Good luck, let us know how it turns out and post pics...........

GreatDane, I suggest you run that list by Wested themselves to see if there is any part of it they question, before you order.

I suggest you don't mail them that you want a pleat depth of 33.5 cm. because thats over 12 inch deep ! LOL 3.35 sounds A lot better.

Yikes! Well spotted Dutch!
Chances are, that's the one measurement they would get right, too!

I would round your figures to the nearest half inch or quarter inch. Asking for 1.4 of an inch is unrealistic. On things like side straps will a quarter of an in REALLY make any difference, on stuff like that the nearest inch makes sense.

Remember also that everything is hand made so there will be a slight variance, so don't be measuring with medical calipers.

For the strap hardware, may i suggest you ask for the TOD buckles, they are really nice IMO and have a more Raiders look than either the rectangular sliders or D-Ring sliders as they allow your straps to point backwards without any messing about.

Yep. I agree. I have the TOD buckels on my latest wested and I love them.

Thanks for the responses, I allready sent wested a mail, but it's late so I doubt they've read it yet. I've resent a list with more simple specs, and I've fixed the 33.5 cm error
I also asked for the TOD buckles.

Indiana Holt wrote:Yep. I agree. I have the TOD buckels on my latest wested and I love them.

Have you shown us this latest Wested yet?

(there I quoted you )

hehe.

nope, no order yet.

I kinda am torn between another soft goat or a thin and supple black cowhide.

Hmm black. Well everyone knows the original was black so heavily distressed it looks brown

(oops sorry that was a joke )

Will it be a Raiders jacket or ....?

yeah Raiders.

in most scenes the jacket look black, so I guess its SA in a way.

I have a black Temple jacket from mags and I love it, but I think I wear brown better......

Gracious, that should turn out well if they don't have a nervous breakdown over the specs, but since they haven't yet, don't see why this one should be any different.

Greatdane wrote: Jacket size: 44 (XL)
Sleeve Length: 27,5"
Back Length: 26"

That's some mighty long sleeves... I am pretty tall (6'3" / 191 cm) with long arms, but my latest Wested only has 26" sleeves.

I'm actually really surprised about the sleeves myself. But I've measured them many times and I've even contacted wested as on how to take measurements: From the top of the shoulder to the first knuckle on the thump. (Top of the shoulder means that: from a front view, it's directly above the armpit?. I also got a professional tailor to look at it, I always got about 27.5"

Of course there's always the possibility that I made wrong measurements every time. When the jacket arrives, I'll know.

Personally, I'm tall (192cm) and very slim. I also have very long legs, so perhaps my arms really are that long as well... I'd rather order them too long than too short anyway, I could always get my tailor to adjust them a bit. I

Jens_Hoppe wrote:

Greatdane wrote: Jacket size: 44 (XL)
Sleeve Length: 27,5"
Back Length: 26"

That's some mighty long sleeves... I am pretty tall (6'3" / 191 cm) with long arms, but my latest Wested only has 26" sleeves.

Thats nothing, I ordered 28" sleeves on my jacket:) and I do need those !!

Greatdane wrote:Thanks for the responses, I allready sent wested a mail, but it's late so I doubt they've read it yet. I've resent a list with more simple specs, and I've fixed the 33.5 cm error
I also asked for the TOD buckles.

Make sure your email of specs is confirmed; otherwise they go by what you put in the request box. Or you can call Gemma to make sure they got your list of specs. I had some problems with them when I ordered my jacket; it turned out pretty well but I didn't get a lot that I asked for. Good luck!

And your specs list looks good, but me personally would get the gussets.

I'd be getting gussets, and shallower pleats. 1", or 1.25" max.

Good luck! Make sure you post pics when you get it!

It may be too late to discuss this, and I didn't see it on your specs, but you might want to think about having the yoke adjusted (ala Holt's Raiders jacket) having a shorter yoke makes the jacket a lot more SA.

Greatdane wrote: 8. "Holt" Collar:
2.75"(7cm) on the tips, tapering down to 2.5"(6.4cm).
The left collar should also extend to the midway point of the top of the storm flap, or 0.75"
(1.9cm) from the edge of the flap.
Collar ending halfway between zipper and stormflap.
15. Yoke seam:
The arm seam should be 1" (2.25cm) BELOW the yoke seam.

Mentioned the yoke and the collar here. Is this what you referred to?

thats not the ''Holt'' yolk. it is even higher then that. but not by much, but enuff to make me see a difference.


and IMO the collar tips are a tad to small, the collar tips will curl up. so if you want a a nice curl instead of straighter collar tips you have them at 3'' inch at tip. however, when I think about it, I dont think 0.25'' will make such a difference. if it was 2,5'' at tip then yes.

If I were to add a "holt" yolk, what would you suggest for specs - is it as simple as requesting a "high 'holt' yolk? or will I need to be more specific?

yep. thats it, high holt yolk. Peter will understand.

Thanks for the info

just added it and and sent and e-mail to Peter

Thats some crazy measurements....I was about to order a wested....but I don't even think I know HOw to get most those measurements not to mention what half of them mean....

I was thinking of ordering a Wested in the near future as well. So this thread and the one about Wested sizing for beginners have really piqued my interest (along with my confusion ). I started doing the research and it appears that a talk over the phone to Wested might be the best bet eventually.
Now resume chat so I can get me some more info.

thanks,
Frank

Yeah...cuz I would have no idea what to ask them or tell them except, "I want my jacket to look like the one in LC and I want it to fit my measurements." That's all I would know to say to them......

Received an order confirmation from Wested, now I just have to arm myself with patience and wait.

I'll explain you guys how exactly I measured the size for my Wested, I remember I had some trouble figuring out my size when I joined COW. I didn't know how Wested measured.
I hope this small piece of info can be valuable to newcomers. ( I don't have the jacket yet so I don't know if it actually fits)

First of all, I got a professional tailor to take my measurements. I found a small independent lady who where willing to do it for free. Bought some chocolate for her though, as thanks - I really recommend you get your measurements taken by a professional. It ***** to get a jacket or shirt that looks wrong because you messed up yourself.
Experience tells me that big stores won't take your measurements unless you buy something. The tailor I found was a nice lady who would fix damages and "fine tune" gala dresses and such. She was a huge Indiana Jones fan as well and thought that my project sounded really cool. Bonus (I had to promise her to show her an Adventurebilt when I got one)
I got her to use the measurement charts from Magnoli Clothiers (for shirts and pants) and they became my standard measurements afterwards.

Then I found a measurement chart from another site (Wested doesn't have one)
I found this on soulrevolver.com: http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww38 ... hartWM.jpg

I've recently bought a Tyler Durden Fight Club jacket from Soul Revolver, a size L (or 44) as that is my shirt size. It turned out to be one size too small so I should have gone with a size XL (46)
Now I know my jacket size is a 46, but I also supplied them with my shirt size. I told Wested that the shirt measurements were taken "off the body" I told them that I trusted them (Wested) to add the extra few necessary inches needed for a leather jacket, I felt they would be more qualified to add them themselfs, I was too afraid to mess up and get the measurements wrong. For safety's sake I picked a size 46 in the order itself.

I also asked Wested how to measure the sleeve length and they told be to measure from the top of the shoulder to the first knuckle on the thumb.

I hope this bit of info can help newcomers, but please use caution with these particular instructions, I still don't know how my jacket is gonna turn out, but I will update this thread with pictures and comments when I receive it.

Take special note of the last paragraph.

GD, once you get your jacket and everything fits as planned, THEN folks should use the above instructions as a possible guideline. Just a word of caution.

What your tailor does, and what Wested does may still be two completely different things. We've seen it happen before. Definitely post a followup when you get your jacket.

Regards! Michaelson

Greatdane wrote:Then I found a measurement chart from another site (Wested doesn't have one)
I found this on soulrevolver.com: http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww38 ... hartWM.jpg

I've recently bought a Tyler Durden Fight Club jacket from Soul Revolver, a size L (or 44) as that is my shirt size. It turned out to be one size too small so I should have gone with a size XL (46)
Now I know my jacket size is a 46, but I also supplied them with my shirt size. I told Wested that the shirt measurements were taken "off the body" I told them that I trusted them (Wested) to add the extra few necessary inches needed for a leather jacket, I felt they would be more qualified to add them themselfs, I was too afraid to mess up and get the measurements wrong. For safety's sake I picked a size 46 in the order itself.

It seeems Soulrevolver and Wested use "Chest Size" in different ways: With Soulrevolver it's used to describe the actual size of the jacket, while with Wested it's your size... On the sizing guide page on soulrevolver.com, it even says that "The below chart shows measurements of the actual jackets in inches", so a size L jacket is 44" around (or 22" pit-to-pit). For a regular fitted look, they recommend jackets with a size 4" larger than one's actual chest size. So, if I am 40" around the chest, I should go with a size 44 from Soulrevolver (or 42 if I want a really tight fit).

In contrast, with Wested I should go for a jacket size equal to my chest size, because Wested than adds in a number of inches around the chest (4" or 6", depending on which thread you read here ). For instance, my latest size 42 jacket from Wested is 23" pit-to-pit, or 46" around, for a total of 4" added.

On the sizing guide page on soulrevolver.com, it even says that "The below chart shows measurements of the actual jackets in inches"

which is exactly the part I missed at that time...
I ordered a 44 and it was pretty tight, should have gone with a 46. I'm currently planning to sell of my old jacket and buy a new one in the correct size (there was also a few things that needed to be changed in order to make it more screen accurate)
We all make mistakes.
I'm pretty sure I explained it well to wested, sounded like they had no trouble understanding. But it's the results that counts, we'll see once the jacket arrives.

Edit:
I have received the jacket, but I totally forgot about this thread I made. The new thread (with pictures) is here: http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f ... 71#p594971

Thanks to everyone who supported me and supplied info, critique and examination.

- Toby