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Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 2:45 pm
by Stinky Dragon
I'm not entirely sure if this is the right place for it, but I would really appreciate some advice. I'm finally going to be getting an Indy jacket to complete my gear (for now), and I decided on the Todd's standard. My only problem is with the sizing. According to my measurements and the chart on the site, I should probably be looking at getting a small (34-36" chest depending on if I puff it up or not... I'm a little under 5'9" and about 135 lbs). The thing is that I've got another jacket that I rather like the fit on, though it is a little loose, that has really big measurements. It's a "medium" so I measured it and got this:

-22" pit to pit in the front and back
-25" from the base of the collar to the bottom of the jacket
-a little over 34" sleeves measured from mid-collar

which would make that jacket about a L+ or an XL based on the Todd's standard sizing. Maybe the jacket I have is a little too big for me, but it feels fine if a little loose.

Here are a couple pictures of my current jacket if that would help at all.

http://i44.tinypic.com/sd22rm.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/10o050g.jpg

And this is the sizing chart for Todd's... http://www.toddscostumes.com/indy/jacke ... jacket.htm

Once again, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 3:39 pm
by RCSignals
Based on what you've said and Todd's chart I'd guess you are correct, go with a small.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 7:12 pm
by HDRnR
I have a 43" chest and I'm 5'9" and have a Todd's XL and it fits perfect.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 10:51 pm
by Mountaineer
Don't guess on this. That's why his chart is there. If you can, put on the jacket from your photo (or one that is close to Todd's jacket) and have someone assist you in folding it back on the sleeves and its body hemline to match the lengths referenced on Todd's sizing chart. Then you can see firsthand about how the Todd's might look on you. (A close facsimile anyway.) Remember Indy's jacket isn't skin tight, like a motorcycle jacket; but a rather loose fitting garment.

As an owner of two Todd's Standards, just follow what the cart says and go with that, it will not guide you wrong. Trust me.
If you are curious, I own both a small from 2008 and a medium + from what I guess is his current batch. (I just got it this past Friday.) The newer one is MUCH nicer a jacket than the older one; heaver leather, nice grain and a darker color. NOT that the 2008 batches were bad, it's just that this is so much an improvement for what people seem to be looking for in an "Indy" jacket.

I recently ordered the M+ because after wearing the S for over a year I was just never really happy with the sleeve length (originally they were too short, although his new size S is close to what I ended up with when I rolled the ends of the sleeves out anyway). Once I saw the different leather used currently in his jackets (via this forum), that did it for me.

And if it matters; I can do the temple collar thing with this new one; I couldn't say/do that with the old one.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 12:35 am
by RCSignals
Sounds like good advice mountaineer.

What is the sleeve length of the Medium + from the crown of the shoulder to the sleeve end?

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 8:41 am
by Mountaineer
Keep in mind that Todd doesn't measure them this way. His method is from center-back of the neck, over a shoulder and to the cuff. The jacket's shoulder seam doesn't line up with the top of a person's shoulder anyway; it's actually off-shoulder. Todd's is correct in that feature too, just look at some "Raiders" screencaps to see where the shoulder seam sits; more on the arm than the top of the shoulder.

But, as requested: On the M+, measuring from the seam at the top of the shoulder (where the jacket's front and back panels connect) to the cuff of the sleeve is 24 inches. Pretty much dead-on too.

One more note on measuring/ordering:
When I got the small in 2008, I just took my measurements, looked at his chart and ordered what was the best size based on those measurements. Like I said, I never had a problem with the fit or length of the jacket's body, just the sleeves. The jacket fit like a custom-sized suit jacket, ending at the base of the thumb. Over time however, as leather acts differently than cloth, and due to the creasing that occurred as I wore-in the leather and its sleeves wrinkled to my arms I ended up with (for me) short sleeves.

This time, prior to ordering, I tried measuring all kinds of coats/shirts while on hangers to see what I had with similar lengths, and just got more confused. Only after I put something on and did as I described in my first post (mocking the jacket with another garment) did I fully confirm what I wanted to order.

Personally, I believe that if you don't do a mock-up/trial fitting at home using something existing you'll not know how something looks on you before you buy it. If you just measure sizes, without putting things on and seeing their fit, you'll end up not liking something and then end up sending it back. That's added expense and time that's not worth it for me.

Then again, I also made a fedora out of construction paper to see if a 5.5 to 6 inch crown would look stupid on me. Turned out no, it didn't; but that's another story.

Basically I didn't want to drop cash on something if I'd end up being too self-conscious about it to wear regularly. Same with this jacket. Put something on, fold it up to match the measurements on his chart, look in a mirror. See for yourself which you like best, then order that size. Wait a few days then enjoy the jacket.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 2:32 pm
by Stinky Dragon
Thanks for the suggestion, Mountaineer. I'll definitely give that a shot!

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 3:04 pm
by Mountaineer
No problem.
I know that "trick" worked for me, it would probably do the same for you.
At least it wouldn't be such a surprise to see the jacket's sleeve and body lengths on your person once you try it on the first time if you go in knowing some of what to expect.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 5:10 pm
by RCSignals
Mountaineer wrote:Keep in mind that Todd doesn't measure them this way. His method is from center-back of the neck, over a shoulder and to the cuff. The jacket's shoulder seam doesn't line up with the top of a person's shoulder anyway; it's actually off-shoulder. Todd's is correct in that feature too, just look at some "Raiders" screencaps to see where the shoulder seam sits; more on the arm than the top of the shoulder.

But, as requested: On the M+, measuring from the seam at the top of the shoulder (where the jacket's front and back panels connect) to the cuff of the sleeve is 24 inches. Pretty much dead-on too.

........

Thanks for that measurement. I've been considering one of Todd's new M + but 24" sleeve may be too short.

Yes I realise Todd doesn't measure the way I asked for (everyone else does for jackets, Todd measure in the way a shirt is measured) which is why I asked for the measurement from the crown of the shoulder to the sleeve end.

The shoulder seam not sitting on the top of the shoulder isn't the same as 'off shoulder' or 'falling back. Maybe the new '+' sizes are doing that? The previous didn't (even thought eh shoulder seam wasn't centered)

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 5:47 pm
by Mountaineer
RC: I just wanted to be sure I gave good information on here so I double checked with a tailor's tape this evening (as opposed to the 12-inch ruler I had at work) and I have some probably bad news then.

The sleeve measurement as you requested is actually 23 inches. Additionally the shoulder is 7 inches from collar seam to sleeve seam.

Measured as Todd suggests (center back of the neck, over shoulder to the cuff), my sleeve is right at 34.5 inches.

I have no idea if that helps, but I didn't want to start off spreading disinformation here.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Mon May 11, 2009 6:15 pm
by RCSignals
thanks mountaineer.

How the whole jacket fits can have an effect too. Everything they list about the size of Medium + looks good, except the sleeve length. I'll have to give this some thought.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:43 pm
by Stinky Dragon
Thanks again for the suggestions, everyone. I just ordered a small, so I'll be sure to follow up once I receive it. I'm excited! :D

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 2:23 pm
by Stinky Dragon
Sorry for the double post, but my jacket just arrived and I love it! At first I was a little concerned that it might be too small, but I think it's just because I'm not used to wearing a jacket like this. I have plenty of freedom of movement, and I think it looks great! I don't have any comparison, but I must say Todd makes a fine jacket! :D

Image

Image

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 2:25 pm
by TheExit148
The jacket looks awesome man. Has that perfect Raiders look, and the fit and length look great! Nice purchase! :tup:

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 2:42 pm
by Mountaineer
I'm glad you like it. Congrats on your new jacket; it does look the part.
Ultimately, your liking it is what is most important isn't it?
Hopefully you'll get some good use out of it too instead of relegating it to the closet due to the fit being off.

Just curious, did you do the sample fitting method to make your mind up or just look at the measurements and take a leap from the lion's head?

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 2:59 pm
by crismans
Looks like the fit is very good. Enjoy that new jacket!

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 3:20 pm
by Stinky Dragon
I did try out the sample fitting method, but mostly just to see how long it would be, and for the sleeves. I wasn't quite sure how to fold it up to get the chest measurement to look right, so I just based it on my own chest measurement. I'm really happy with how it looks and I've been wearing it since I got it, so the I'm getting more used to the fit of it. All in all, I'm really happy with it! Thanks for the kind words and the help, guys :notworthy:

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 4:16 pm
by RCSignals
I think it looks good with nice fit. Keep wearing it, break the leather in.
Try pushing up the sleeves to your elbows while you're sitting reading or watching TV etc.

Re: Which size should I get?

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 2:30 pm
by blueoakleyz
Mountaineer wrote:Don't guess on this. That's why his chart is there. If you can, put on the jacket from your photo (or one that is close to Todd's jacket) and have someone assist you in folding it back on the sleeves and its body hemline to match the lengths referenced on Todd's sizing chart. Then you can see firsthand about how the Todd's might look on you. (A close facsimile anyway.) Remember Indy's jacket isn't skin tight, like a motorcycle jacket; but a rather loose fitting garment.

As an owner of two Todd's Standards, just follow what the cart says and go with that, it will not guide you wrong. Trust me.
If you are curious, I own both a small from 2008 and a medium + from what I guess is his current batch. (I just got it this past Friday.) The newer one is MUCH nicer a jacket than the older one; heaver leather, nice grain and a darker color. NOT that the 2008 batches were bad, it's just that this is so much an improvement for what people seem to be looking for in an "Indy" jacket.

I recently ordered the M+ because after wearing the S for over a year I was just never really happy with the sleeve length (originally they were too short, although his new size S is close to what I ended up with when I rolled the ends of the sleeves out anyway). Once I saw the different leather used currently in his jackets (via this forum), that did it for me.

And if it matters; I can do the temple collar thing with this new one; I couldn't say/do that with the old one.
Are all his jackets the new batch or are the regular sizes different quality than the + sizes, as if they're from a different manufacturer?

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:33 pm
by Mountaineer
All I can tell you is my experience with what I ordered and what I received.
I would imagine everything is standard now as SD's small looks exactly like my Med+.
I will also say that I have seen some mention from Todd regarding the change in leathers on here in some topic/board.
Ultimately, that's a question for Todd.
He's on here as Puppetboy, he should be able to answer your question.

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 5:12 pm
by Kt Templar
RCSignals wrote:I think it looks good with nice fit. Keep wearing it, break the leather in.
Try pushing up the sleeves to your elbows while you're sitting reading or watching TV etc.
There is nothing to 'break in' really, it a soft, soft lamb.

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 5:29 pm
by RCSignals
Kt Templar wrote:
RCSignals wrote:I think it looks good with nice fit. Keep wearing it, break the leather in.
Try pushing up the sleeves to your elbows while you're sitting reading or watching TV etc.
There is nothing to 'break in' really, it a soft, soft lamb.
Yes, but as it is it's very smooth and 'new'. It needs to be worn to get some sleeve wrinkling etc, but you are correct in that it doesn't need the same 'break in' as a stiff hide.

Re: Which size should I get?- Jacket has Arrived!

Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:41 pm
by crismans
I can't speak to the standards but I've had a couple of custom cowhides that I bought secondhand and the one I now own that I ordered directly. The cowhide on my new jacket is a marked improvement over the old leather. Not that the old leather was bad, but this new leather has a much nicer grain and character. Starts breaking in and distressing almost immediately too but appears to be really tough. It's a very nice hide.