Club Obi Wan

my Wested 48 tod fits great,
my Wested 50 NH tod fits great,
my 50 rola special wested fits great,
my 52 nowak fits great
my todds 2xl fits great
xl wings blue label fits great
so, what size am I?
seriously?
Its such a crapshoot as far as i am concerned.

Im 6'4 190.
My todds xl fits fine (barely on the sleeves though)
my blue label wings 2xl is a bit big,
which may be my biggest problem as im tall.

Well it looks like all your jackets came out great, so why worry?

If you're 6'4" and 190 then I am thinking you have a really big chest - or your jackets all fit baggy on you. At which point your fit would be a preference with the jackets wouldn't it?

With any type of clothing (except maybe shoes), what they consider the ideal fit is subjective. Once you start factoring in difference of cut, you end up with a pretty broad latitude of fittings.

Yojimbo is right in that sizing has a bad habit of varying. However, looking at your particular list, I have to say the monkey wrench is the Nowak. Knowing how Wested sizing runs, a 52 should be huge on you. So your Nowak is either mislabeled or his sizing is off totally.

All of the others make sense based on what I know of their relative cuts and sizing tendencies. General rules; Westeds are usually snug or perfect fit, favoring the slim. NH cut is slightly different from Westeds normal sizing, as are the "specials". Todds favor fit and trim, and thus feel like they run small. Wings generally run a little big.

My guess is. Your a 49. Have somebody use a tape measure around your chest, under the arms (arms down) while wearing a typical shirt choice. Don't pull the tape too tight. See what the result is. Write it down and use that as your guide whenever you order jackets. You can also measure your midsection, about belly button height, if you want more detailed stats. I do.

His Nowak I think he just bought from someone else, made for someone else. They are strictly custom made per individual and do not have size labels.

It is difficult to get a feel for the fit of these jackets without photos, but ortiz does say they all fit him well

By your list, it sounds like you are a true 50L.

Standard Westeds fit loose hence the 48 fits you and TN fits small hence the 52 fits you.

Your 50s are on the money. Getting measured by a pro would definitely get you a proper starting point but that's only a starting point as manufacturers vary.