Club Obi Wan

I got my custom ROLA (with full cut) authentic brown lambskin today. Took about 6 weeks to get after I placed the order, which I did not mind. I didn't know what to think at first as its "tighter" than my G&B Expedition, but not tight. Also the lambskin is heavier than the G&B. The leather is quite nice and not cheap.
I gave Peter and Gemma a laundry list of requests. They were quite courteous each time I spoke to them. One thing I did ask for was a silver zipper and I got a bronze colored one. I see they did that for heyjude7's authentic brown as well. Do they not make the authentic brown with a silver zipper? Anyways, I don't know if that's a deal-breaker just yet as I really wanted a silver zipper but the jacket does seem pretty nice. Also there's a wrinkle in the leather about 5 inches long in the front. I don't know if that will smooth out eventually. There's also a couple of pin-hole size defects by each front pocket, kind of minute. Everything else I asked for I believe I had gotten; gussets, no zip facing, sleeves and length correct. So what does everyone think?

I'll post pics in a few minutes (have to go to photobucket now on a different computer).


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2120.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2121.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2122.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2123.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2124.jpg

Is there only one pic up? The pocket looks nice - but hard to tell about the entire jacket.

nicktheguy wrote:Is there only one pic up? The pocket looks nice - but hard to tell about the entire jacket.

Pics are now all up. Like I said, give me a few minutes

Oops - jumped the gun.

I really like the back of that jacket - it's the back that can really make or break the look. I also like the fact that there is no flying squirrel effect!!!

Congrats on your new addition.

The little holes almost look like they took a few shots at where to put the pocket or something. Having said that I don't think iut would worry me as the fit is pretty much spot on and you won't notice them anyway once it starts to wrinkle up / get character.

Looks like it fits really nice. The closer cut is more Raiders to me. A very nice jacket you have there Weird that they aren't putting silver zippers on the jackets though, even when the site says "smaller 5-gauge nickel zipper". Maybe they are out or something.

The fit looks good.

I wouldn't worry about the leather wrinkle unless it is a weak spot. Most people want their jackets to wrinkle.

Looks like it's a perfect fit, and don't worry about the wrinkles... they'll either wear out after you break in your jacket, or if they really are a bother, you could always iron them out!

Quite smooth leather there by Wested.
I kinda prefer the varieties TN uses.

The fit is good yeah. What size is the jacket and the pockets?

I think it looks greaton you. If the fits good then who cares about the brazz zipp.

I really like the backpanel on the jacket.

is that a 44? if it is could you please do me a favor? could you measure some parts of the jacket for me? I need to find out how many times the 44 specs vary.

how long is it?

whats the sleeve length?

chest ( armpit to armpit when zipped)

could you please see if they made the front longer then the back?


thanx
Eric

PLATON wrote:Quite smooth leather there by Wested.
I kinda prefer the varieties TN uses.

The fit is good yeah. What size is the jacket and the pockets?

Its a 44L, and the pockets are 6.42" width and 7.68" height

Eric,
Back Length is 27", sleeves are 26", armpit to armpit is 21.5" (I hope I did that right) and it does seem the front is slightly longer than the back, maybe an inch. I hope that helps. I really do like this leather and the color. Down the road, maybe I'll get one in dark brown. And I asked for the backpanel to extend all the way to the arm seam.

Looks like a great fit to me which is a HUGE part of whether or not you like the jacket. I agree with the others that the wrinkle will flatten out over time (or be joined by some brothers and sisters which is a good thing). The pinholes (as long as they don't "grow" which I don't think they will isn't a big factor either. I have to agree with Yojimbo that it looks like the pockets were repositioned or something.

And no flying squirrel effect. I wonder if the gussets play a major part in this.

That pit to pit seems off, in 44 shouldn't it be close to 24 in (44 + 4in /2) ??

Are you sure they are defects?

They look like the chalk/white marker points they use for placement.

I had them on my ToD. They come off with a damp cloth.

thanx just one more thing.

what is the shoulder. from neck to shoudler edge?

Indiana Holt wrote:thanx just one more thing.

what is the shoulder. from neck to shoudler edge?

7 inches.

For the width, if I go from seam to seam, its 25 inches. I had the impression a 44 would be 22 on each side, front and back.

Also these "defects" are not pinholes but pinhole sized. Sorry for any confusion. I tried a damp cloth and they don't come off. They nor the wrinkle bother me so much as the wrong colored zipper, which like Holt said won't matter in time compared to the great look and feel on the jacket. I won't do any distressing to it just yet.

KT asked what I was setting out to do getting this, when I already have a G&B. I said I wanted a jacket more SA (you gotta go Raiders when getting an Indy; my wife would kill me if I get any more Indy jackets considering we live in FL). I also wanted a custom made jacket. I also told him I'm not going to distress the G&B and that would be my classy going out Indy jacket. This would be my rugged type looking going out with the guys and not caring what happens to it (within reason) Indy jacket. I may use Pecard's, I'm not sure just yet. I like the jacket looking brown. Its not too light like the Blue Label US Wings which even with Pecard's, it still looked too light. As you know the dark brown G&B (like the Wested dark brown), in some lighting it looks black.

a 44 should be 24in armpit to armpit. that will leave you 4'' of wiggle room.

Eric,
Back Length is 27", sleeves are 26", armpit to armpit is 21.5" (I hope I did that right) and it does seem the front is slightly longer than the back, maybe an inch.

You mean that the front is 28'' ?
Are you sure?

PLATON wrote:You mean that the front is 28'' ?
Are you sure?

It does NOT work like that.

If you lay any jacket down flat, zipped up, the back of the collar is up higher than the front of the collar, by
at least 4 inches or so. It needs to be like this to go around your neck, otherwise your jacket collar would
look like a turtle neck shirt if the front and the back were basically the same.

On a 27 inch back length, I would say that the front length will be about 23 inches.

On my size 44 Wested Raiders jacket, I asked for a 26 inch back length, and I also asked
for an additional 1.5 inches added to the front for "ride up".

My jacket measures 24 inches down the front if you measure from the top of the storm
flap down do the bottom.

You have to take into account that the collar is lower in the front of a jacket where it goes
down slightly on the front of your neck, and its up higher on your neck in the back.

Flathead

It does NOT work like that.

If you lay any jacket down flat, zipped up, the back of the collar is up higher than the front of the collar, by
at least 4 inches or so. It needs to be like this to go around your neck, otherwise your jacket collar would
look like a turtle neck shirt if the front and the back were basically the same.

On a 27 inch back length, I would say that the front length will be about 23 inches.

On my size 44 Wested Raiders jacket, I asked for a 26 inch back length, and I also asked
for an additional 1.5 inches added to the front for "ride up".

My jacket measures 24 inches down the front if you measure from the top of the storm
flap down do the bottom.

You have to take into account that the collar is lower in the front of a jacket where it goes
down slightly on the front of your neck, and its up higher on your neck in the back.

Flathead

If we take into account what you just said, then in the case of TN jackets where front equals back, it means that when you wear the jacket the back will hang higher than the front, which is not the case as our fellow members TN jacket owners describe.

Remember that some time back people when ordering jackets from wested were ordering with 1 additional inch front length because when they wore the jacket zipped up the back hem was lower than the front. The same happened when they wore the jacket off shoulders.

Everybody was ordering 1 inch longer in the front, while actually the secret was to order 1 or 2 inches shorter in the back. That would solve the problems.

TN jackets exaggerate this and suggest front = back
In a Wested 40R the front is 22 and the back 25. So a TN would be 22 and 22. I find that extreme and think the correct way would be 22 front and 23 or 24 (sor something between) for the back.

But that's just me....

PLATON wrote:
Everybody was ordering 1 inch longer in the front, while actually the secret was to order 1 or 2 inches shorter in the back. That would solve the problems.....

Ordering a jacket 1 or 2 inches shorter just in the back is the exact same thing as
ordering one that is 1 or 2 inches longer just in the front. There is no difference
at all. In either example, when the jacket is layed flat, the front of the jacket will
be visibly longer than the back, versus the front and the back being even with
each other.

The only problem with what you are saying, by getting it shorter in the back, is that now
the jacket will be WAY to short for a persons body, and it will make you look like a man
trying to wear a little boys jacket. It will be too short.

By getting an extra inch just on the front, while leaving the back the same length, it will
fix the back/front from not looking "even" when you look at yourself sideways in the mirror,
as well as NOT making the jacket too short overall for you.

You don't want to subtract length on a jacket that is already waist length by design.

You should ALWAYS start your jacket order with the proper measurements, and the
back length is critical in order for an Indy style jacket to look right. Or any jacket for
that matter.

PLATON wrote:TN jackets exaggerate this and suggest front = back
In a Wested 40R the front is 22 and the back 25. So a TN would be 22 and 22. I find that extreme and think the correct way would be 22 front and 23 or 24 (sor something between) for the back.....

Huh?

No TN Indy jacket will EVER have the same measurement front and back. Its actaully
impossible to do with ANY conventional style jacket.

If you lay any jacket down flat, zipped up, the back of the jacket (at the collar) will
always sit higher up than the front of the jacket (at the collar).

No TN or Wested, or Flightsuits, or USW, or Todds, or any other jacket can have
the same exact measurement front and back unless you have a collar that is a
high front collar like a turtle neck.

I don't get your comparison of 22 and 22. It makes no sense whatsoever.

Now, your statement about being 22 in front and 24 in back is closer to
reality like my Wested which is 26 in back, and 24 in front, or my USW
which is 27 in back and 24.5 in front. (Yes the USW jackets are made longer
than the Westeds).

So, I will agree that a 2 inch difference between the front and the back is probably
going to give a person the best "even" look.

Even the link you posted in the other thread, showing the TN chart example, shows the
back being about 4 inches longer than the front.

Where are you getting the information about TN jackets being the same front and back from?

Flathead

TheExit148 wrote:Looks like it fits really nice. The closer cut is more Raiders to me. A very nice jacket you have there Weird that they aren't putting silver zippers on the jackets though, even when the site says "smaller 5-gauge nickel zipper". Maybe they are out or something.

I just got this from Gemma:

All the custom ROLA jackets comes with the brass zipper unless you state otherwise.

Now I did state otherwise (silver nickel zipper) in an email along with specs, which they got. So how did they get the specs but not the zipper color?!? She then said it had to be in the request box, which I forget what I had in there as I had a list of requests. Besides I didn't think I would have to request for something that the site says it comes with. And when I questioned her (by email) about what the site says, she didn't respond. I also told her my zipper is more of a bronze than brass, which is a shiny golden color. She didn't respond to that either.

I'll take more pics of the back where it seems the front is longer and post them later.

Odd, very odd that she said that. The site must need to be updated, but if you had mentioned them in the requests, I would think they would honour it, unless they misread your specs, or something. That request box is I find, doesn't fit a lot of specs in it. I've requested a silver zipper on my custom that I'm awaiting, and put it in my specs which is what she confirmed they have, and have printed out for my order. Guess we'll see when it comes. On the plus though, a good tailor may be able to put in a silver zipper for you. I know the shop here can do it even on a leather jacket. Not sure on $ though... Its always an option for you.

binkmeisterRick wrote:As strange as it sounds, the front and back are the same length on Nowak's Raiders jacket, but I think it has to due with the pattern and how the shoulders are cut.

How can that be, as jacket number 58 of 777, the one he has for sale on
his website, is not like this at all, and it is made to his standard pattern?

It has a more standard 4 inch difference between the front and back.

If you take one of these jackets, and line the bottom hem of the front
and back up even, I still can not believe that the front and back of the collar
will line up, as jacket number 58 clearly shows is NOT the case.

If someone can post pictures of their TN, we can see if the front and back
are the same.

Flathead

Hey JC1972, that is one nice fitting jacket. If your really concerned about having a silver zipper on there instead of the brass or golden one they put on there, you can have the zipper replaced. I don't think it is too hard to replace the zipper on the jacket. I would seek out maybe a shop in your local area that can do this if you really want to. I don't know if tailors to that, but I am sure someone that works with jackets or clothes could do this. I don't know why Wested did not put silver zip on your jacket. You could buy the zipper you want and then have someone put it on the jacket for you. I think I would go for that option. The jacket fits great on you, its definately a keeper.

IndianaChris

neutronbomb wrote:

FLATHEAD wrote:.............Where are you getting the information about TN jackets being the same front and back from?

Huh?

No TN Indy jacket will EVER have the same measurement front and back.

Flathead

All that Flathead and then at the end you think to ask The chart you referred to is for the CS jacket. Not the ROTLA jacket. It has been discussed ad nauseum about the original and unique ROTLA pattern from 30 years ago. You should be careful about absolutes. It'll come back to haunt you.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36638&start=0

"#000/888 Measurements that I took:
Front Flap w/ Collar Stand vertically from bottom to top: 23"
Shoulder from sleeve seam to collar seam: ~7"
Sleeves from cuff to sleeve seam: between 25 1/2" to 25 3/4"
Back vertical length from Collar Stand to Lower back panel: 23"
Chest width: 22 1/2"
Waist width: 21 1/2"
Pockets: 8" x 6.5" (Crystal Skull Pocket for comparison: 7.5" x 6")"

If this is the case, when your jacket is layed flat, the front hem must hang down WAY past
the back hem!!

Funny how your jacket, and the one he has for sale (number 58) differ so much in
the basic pattern.

Also, when you measured the back length, did you INCLUDE the collar stand
like you did when you measured the front length?

If you did not, then your measurements will be off by at least the width of the
collar stand, and you can add in that length to the back, and the back length
will thus be longer than the front.

If you included the collar stand in your front measurement, you have to also
include it in the back for proper measurements.

I will agree about absolutes. It has come back to bite me on many occasions!

But the difference in the same jacket pattern is odd. I would like to see a picture
of your jacket, layed down flat, with the zipper done up, and the front and back
hem lined up even with each other.

Flathead

Here is an example of what I am talking about.

Here is a front and back picture of Chewie Louie's TN jacket
side by side with a Wested jacket. His TN is on the right.





The bottom hem of the front and back are lined up pretty
evenly.

Notice the difference in length between where the front of
the collar and the back of the collar are on the pictures?

There is no way that the front length and the back length
are the same.

Its even more apparent when you look at just the picture taken
from the front.

The back of the collar, at the collar stand, is at least 3 or 4 inches higher
up than the front of the collar.

Your telling me that these are the same measurement?

The jacket he has pictured matches the TN website pattern, and every
other jacket pattern I have ever seen.

Flathead

Flathead, 58/777 is a CS jacket, Bink's and 000/888 are Raiders jackets: completely different patterns. On the TN Raiders jackets the back is shorter than the front, but it is only visible when worn "on the shoulders" which the TN Raiders doesn't want to do. If you look closely at Raiders you'll see the same thing happening with Ford's jacket.

I can't make screengrabs otherwise I'd show you, but trust me, it's there.

Regards, Geert

JC1972, on my custom ROTLA, i specifically put silver aluminum zipper and did not get it either... like i said in my last thread when i got the jacket, this is and was my last shot with Wested...i love this jacket but i wont order another Wested... a great price but too much hassle and bad customer service...lack of communication.. im not bashing Wested, just sharing my experience.
Nowak is my next adventure.. dont know when that will be though...

FLATHEAD wrote: I see.

Can you post a picture of your TN Raiders jacket hanging on a hanger, from the front?

Or forward me to a post that has a picture like this?

Until I see it for myself, I find it hard to believe.

Flathead

This is Tony's private Raiders jacket. This picture is from the thread that Neutronbomb provided the link for ( viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36638&start=0 ).

Regards, Geert

Dang! I totaly forgot : JC1972, Nice jacket you've got there It seems like a great fit. Wear it in goed health!

Regards, Geert

gwyddion wrote:

FLATHEAD wrote: I see.

Can you post a picture of your TN Raiders jacket hanging on a hanger, from the front?

Or forward me to a post that has a picture like this?

Until I see it for myself, I find it hard to believe.

Flathead

This is Tony's private Raiders jacket. This picture is from the thread that Neutronbomb provided the link for ( viewtopic.php?f=25&t=36638&start=0 ).

Regards, Geert

Well I will be dipped in doo-doo!

It does appear that the back is very short on this jacket, and the front and the back
might just possibly be the same!!

I can admit defeat!!

I am also sending an e-mail to Tony to ask him about this personally.

I can't even imagine anyone being able to wear a jacket that has a back
length of only 23 inches.

It must be so short it just barely comes down to ones waist.

Unless said person is really short in the torso.

Flathead

Flat, it is a remarkable fit from a master......my size 46 CS has a 27 in. back length and the Raiders in 46 is 24 1/2 in. back length as well as front and both fit exactly......the secret as others have stated is in the shoulders, yoke,movement and probably a little TN magic....

The back and front length of the TN1 ARE the same. And when layed flat or hung on a hanger, the back DOES look much shorter than the front. And it's the best feature of the jacket in my opinion.

But this is a wested thread. Nice looking jacket, seems like a good fit. Is a zip really such a big deal? I don't think I would ever notice the colour of a zip.

Wow, those are some extremely short backs on those jackets!!

But, since the back does sit up higher than the front, at least you
don't get the ride up of the Wested.

I guess because I am 6'-1" tall, even a 26 inch back length is
just at the kusp of being too short.

Nice jacket by the way bink.

When a jacket fits as it should, it really looks great. And yours
does look great.

Not too baggy, not too tight, but just right.

It does really matter the saying "You get what you pay for".

In your examples, you can really see how the shoulder seam does
indeed fall backwards versus what a Wested or Wings does, by
staying pretty much right in the middle of the shoulders.

I guess old dogs can indeed learn new tricks.

I'll take my foot out of my mouth now...

Flathead

Put some sugar on your foot. It might taste better.

whiskyman wrote: But this is a wested thread. Nice looking jacket, seems like a good fit. Is a zip really such a big deal? I don't think I would ever notice the colour of a zip.

Doh! Whiskyman is right. This IS a Wested thread. (Seems one always turns into another round here!)

I'd agree hat the dots could likely be tailors chalk, as Kt mentioned. I'd try seeing if it will rub off. But as long as you're happy with the jacket, then that's all that matters. If the zipper really bothers you, then you need to decide whether it's worth the trouble of getting it fixed or not. If I made every effort to make sure they understood that request, then I would rightly be disappointed, but that's just me. Everyone seems to have a differing opinion as such.

As I said before Your jacket looks like a great fit. I personaly would be a bit bummed about the zipper, but it wouldn't bother me too much. The wrinkles will either fade or become the first step in the character the jacket will obtain if you wear it regularly, so no worries there. The defects are quite small and look like small parts of the finish layer has come off (not sure as the pics aren't clear enough for me to clearly see what is going on) but as long as they don't get bigger shouldn't be a real case for concern.

Regards, Geert

I think the jacket looks really good. I especially like the side-shot with arms outstretched. The jacket will wear-in nicely!

Sorry for the delay but here are pics of where it seems like the front is longer than the back.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2126.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_2125.jpg

The zipper is a pretty major part of the jacket, and not a hard part to get right.
Generally, there's two colours; silver or brass. You asked for silver, JC, you got brass. Why is this considered acceptable?
It's a nice jacket, sure, but when spending hundreds of dollars, why should a roll of the dice decide on what the finished product
will look like?

Kevin Anderson wrote:The zipper is a pretty major part of the jacket, and not a hard part to get right.
Generally, there's two colours; silver or brass. You asked for silver, JC, you got brass. Why is this considered acceptable?
It's a nice jacket, sure, but when spending hundreds of dollars, why should a roll of the dice decide on what the finished product
will look like?

Well, Gemma was saying to make sure its in the request box even though the site for a Custom ROLA says 5 gauge nickel zip. She said they use brass since its heavier and will last longer. They should put that on the site where you select what options with gussets or inside pocket. She also said to put everything in a confirmed email, which I did send a list of requests right after I ordered it and she replied saying she got my list of custom details. So, I don't know. She did offer to take it back but then I have to pay for shipping. So I asked if she could send me the zipper with some silver colored pocket snaps since I didn't get them either and she said no problem. Maybe I'll see what a tailor will charge. At this point it is what it is. The thing is do I ever order another from them; I'd like to.

It's the Wested Circle of Life. You get a jacket that's not quite right, so you order another. It's not quite right, so you order another..and so on.
I know, I sound a little bitter towards Wested in my recent posts, but really, in only one year here at COW, I've seen the same posts over and over.
A Wested order that didn't turn out quite right. I've been on the wrong end of three myself.
As far as I'm concerned, there are three Golden rules when ordering a Wested jacket; Phone, don't email. Send it back and don't pay a cent for
postage if it turns out wrong. And then just order from somewhere else.
I mean, the zipper, for crying out loud! It should be so simple! Why is it so random!!??
So JC, you can either live with Wested's mistake, which in this instance isn't that bad. You got a pretty good jacket there.
Or, send it back and get what you ordered and paid for.

Kevin Anderson wrote:It's the Wested Circle of Life. You get a jacket that's not quite right, so you order another. It's not quite right, so you order another..and so on.
I know, I sound a little bitter towards Wested in my recent posts, but really, in only one year here at COW, I've seen the same posts over and over.
A Wested order that didn't turn out quite right. I've been on the wrong end of three myself.
As far as I'm concerned, there are three Golden rules when ordering a Wested jacket; Phone, don't email. Send it back and don't pay a cent for
postage if it turns out wrong. And then just order from somewhere else.
I mean, the zipper, for crying out loud! It should be so simple! Why is it so random!!??
So JC, you can either live with Wested's mistake, which in this instance isn't that bad. You got a pretty good jacket there.
Or, send it back and get what you ordered and paid for.

I'm keeping it. I'll see about a local tailor putting the zipper in. Otherwise its fine. But my next one, I'll make darn sure they know I want a silver zipper.

...I can just hear music from 'the Lion King' playing right now...!
Seriously though, enjoy the jacket, it's quite nice from the pics, but it would have looked better with a silver zipper.
I had two with silver zippers. They look good on a dark jacket.

yikes...the silver zip conundrum wested was always good on giving me silver zips, even at the time when silver zips were extremely hard to get......go figure.

wested can make a perfect jacket....i'm sure that those perfect jackets are rarely menttioned here...but you do get some gems once in a while (ie - my prewashed veg tanned custom and VP's custom is the latest that i've seen). we just hear about their mistakes unfortunately.

as for me, i won't order another custom because there's just too much gambling with that. i will buy wested's OTR jackets as those are the best bang for the buck on a leather jacket.......and not just indy jackets btw.

i Went through 5 Wested's until i was done playing the game and gambling!

I called Wested today to check on my order, to confirm the silver zipper as requested in my spec sheet, and she said no it has a bronze zipper unless specified. I told her I did specify silver on my sheet and silver snaps. She said that she would make the change for me. Maybe they are not watching exactly what the specs say, but they should be

Just was on Westeds site, and they have updated the custom Rola jacket to now specify a nickel or antique brass zipper. 5-gauge for both. Glad to see the update to that option. Unfortunatly its a little late for some people.

TheExit148 wrote:Just was on Westeds site, and they have updated the custom Rola jacket to now specify a nickel or antique brass zipper. 5-gauge for both. Glad to see the update to that option. Unfortunatly its a little late for some people.

Thanks, I wonder when they put that on there. Maybe all my emails to Gemma and Peter this week may have done this. Hopefully this will cure all the wrong colored zipper problems.

JC1972,
What kind of buckles did you ask for on your jacket? Are they the slider buckles that Wested has on their site?

Thanks.