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Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 8:39 pm
by ReturningSon
I just recently tried on my Nowak Indy CS jacket and noticed something. I have lost some weight and the jacket is really loose and kinda baggy on me but then its always been like that. I remembering stating to tony when I first recieved it that its "kinda big" but is that just simply how it is on Indy in the fim? To me, it does some a little larger on ford but then again I know he used his exact same size so it should fit like a raiders jacket, right? I dont know, maybe I am just wigging out....

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:29 pm
by Yojimbo Jones
So to clarify, it felt a little baggy at first, then you lost some weight and now it feels more baggy?

My main issue with the CS "look" is that it's a more modern, baggier/bigger-fitting jacket than the Raiders. It looks bigger on Ford, so makes sense that would carry over. Cowhide also would make it feel bigger / more substantial too.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:48 pm
by ReturningSon
Yeah, kinda. I mean, when I first got it I was like "this is kinda too big for me, especially in the shoulders" but the "look" was still good (according to my girlfriend anyway but she may be biased :D ). Anyway, now it is really kinda baggy. Perhaps I am just use to the Raiders high back, slim cut fit, I dont know. I am not gonna lose any sleep over this, just thought if anyone else felt this way...

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:52 pm
by Holt
especially in the shoulders
you mean the armholes/shoulders?

or just the shoulders across back?

BTW are the armholes really big and roomy?

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:56 pm
by St. Dumas
The fit of Ford's Raiders jacket on him was a lot different than the fit of the CS jacket on him. You should do a side-by-side comparison of Raiders Indy and CS Indy. The fit is a day-and-night difference. Unless you lost a considerable amount of weight, my guess is that it fits you as large and loose as the CS was designed to fit.

SD

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 10:52 pm
by PSBIndy
My TN CS is actually quite snug and tight. (compared to my Westeds of similar size)

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:00 am
by RCSignals
I like the fit of my TN CS.

The jacket on Ford in the movie appears bigger in the shoulders, but not necessarily that much bigger over all compared to the Raider jacket.

The interesting thing is it's measurement is not too different from the measurement for the Ford size Raider jacket.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:52 am
by CM
Show us a photo. I think the CS jacket looks a little larger than Raiders but not all that much. By fan photos on this site it seems the fit of these jackets by TN is almost always spot on compared to some other maker's products.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:42 pm
by Rundquist
Tony does a great job with sizing for the most part. If you lost weight there's not much you can do besides packing it back on. #-o Unfortunately you might be best off replacing the jacket. Ultimately it doesn't matter how the jacket fit HF in the movies. He's not wearing it. You're the one that needs to be happy with the fit. That's a crummy moment when you realize that a jacket that you really like doesn't fit you.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:16 pm
by Dutch_jones
I think the loose fit of the actual indy 4 ( if you can even call it a loose fit) was made so it was to show that indy has gotten a little older the clothes still fit but not like they did when he was in is 30's I think it works,

but then again you get to be build specific and that varies from person to person.

How do you think the jacket fits you? Do you think its ( Too) big and loose?

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:20 pm
by Stefan Hills
Did not Ford have to wear a lot of padding and protective gear because he was doing a fair amount of his own stunts in the movie and because of that the jackets were cut a little bigger to accomendate that fact.

All the best,
Stefan

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:35 pm
by RCSignals
Stefan Hills wrote:Did not Ford have to wear a lot of padding and protective gear because he was doing a fair amount of his own stunts in the movie and because of that the jackets were cut a little bigger to accomendate that fact.

All the best,
Stefan
It was mentioned that some jackets were made to accommodate padding needed for stunts etc, not all jackets.
Besides as mentioned before, by measurement the jacket isn't really 'bigger'.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:55 pm
by Baldwyn
While Indy may only seem to wear one costume on screen, in reality, Pollack ultimately had to make 60 pairs of pants and 72 shirts. He also decided to make Indy’s jacket slightly bigger, in order to accommodate the padding Ford would need when doing his stunts. Using stills from the original films, he meticulously designed the instantly recognizable leather jacket, then searched for someone who could make it. That search spanned the U.S., the U.K. and Europe. Finally, costume supervisor Bob Morgan brought in a leather clothier named Tony Novak from El Segundo, Calif. Novak said he needed only a sample jacket to make a prototype overnight. But the Lucasfilm Archives, which had kept the original jacket safe for more than two decades, required tight security; Pollack had an assistant accompany the jacket to Novak’s offices.

“About nine o’clock that night, the jacket was back,” Pollack says. “And it was perfect. I couldn’t believe it. So, I asked him to make 30 of them! I love that guy.”
I've heard the "some jackets were oversized for padding" line too, so who knows. I suppose one could ask Tony.

However, the CS jacket seems certainly larger to me. Just looking at the shoulder seams and how they hang over his shoulders compared to a Raiders jacket seems to evidence of this.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 7:45 pm
by Yojimbo Jones
Yeah, but the jackets are very similarly sized, and Ford's getting on now. He's pretty buff for his age, but I wouldn't expect him to be packing the same delts he did when he was in his 30's.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 8:07 pm
by RCSignals
Baldwyn wrote:
While Indy may only seem to wear one costume on screen, in reality, Pollack ultimately had to make 60 pairs of pants and 72 shirts. He also decided to make Indy’s jacket slightly bigger, in order to accommodate the padding Ford would need when doing his stunts. Using stills from the original films, he meticulously designed the instantly recognizable leather jacket, then searched for someone who could make it. That search spanned the U.S., the U.K. and Europe. Finally, costume supervisor Bob Morgan brought in a leather clothier named Tony Novak from El Segundo, Calif. Novak said he needed only a sample jacket to make a prototype overnight. But the Lucasfilm Archives, which had kept the original jacket safe for more than two decades, required tight security; Pollack had an assistant accompany the jacket to Novak’s offices.

“About nine o’clock that night, the jacket was back,” Pollack says. “And it was perfect. I couldn’t believe it. So, I asked him to make 30 of them! I love that guy.”
I've heard the "some jackets were oversized for padding" line too, so who knows. I suppose one could ask Tony.

However, the CS jacket seems certainly larger to me. Just looking at the shoulder seams and how they hang over his shoulders compared to a Raiders jacket seems to evidence of this.
The shoulder of the Raiders is 7" the CS 7.25" not a huge difference

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:39 am
by CM
Yojimbo Jones wrote:Yeah, but the jackets are very similarly sized, and Ford's getting on now. He's pretty buff for his age, but I wouldn't expect him to be packing the same delts he did when he was in his 30's.

I don't think Ford is any smaller today. People exagerate the effects of age. He was always thin. For ToD he got some definition but not all that much bulk. He could easily be better build in his 60's than when he did Raiders.

I also think the TN jacket was designed to look better than the Raiders jacket. Much of the difference is simply Tony making improvements to the design and tailoring without reference to HF's aging self. :Plymouth: All done with the LC and archive jackets as the preferred models.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:08 am
by RCSignals
I also think the TN jacket was designed to look better than the Raiders jacket.
CS, you are referring to the CS jacket I assume.

To me the CS jacket is an 'evolved' jacket. It has all the real world things a jacket should have to make it better functional.

Those same things though are some of what some people don't like about it compared to the quirky Raiders I think.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:56 am
by hoose55
From what I have read on this forum, the LC jacket and the CS jacket were the same size (44, please, don't ask me to reference a specific post because I've read alot of posts on here about these jackets and frankly, I couldn't tell ya.) Ford's Raiders jacket was size 40. If he did wear a couple of the raiders stunt jackets during temple of doom then you can certainly tell, because those are the jackets that fit him almost like a T-shirt. 40 to 44 is a vast difference in size and while he has an ectomorphic body type, he certainly was effective in changing the amount of muscle mass he had between the first and second movie not to mention the increase between Indy 1 and Indy 4.
The jacket is bigger in the last movie compared to the first. It looks bigger on him, I believe it is bigger. If your jacket fits you big and that's the way you want it, then great! If you want a snugger fit, get a new jacket.
I lost forty lbs. and went from a size 44 to a 38-40. I wore my 44 for two years before I "down sized", actually, I don't need quotes here, I'm not talking about a company. I love my 44, but at times it was so big, it got in the way. If it gets in the way and isn't functional, I'd get a new jacket. However, I'd be willing to bet the jacket looks great on you, and the weight loss only makes you look like you've spent weeks in the jungle surviving by your whits!
Dear god, that's more than I wanted to type.
Enjoy! It's a Nowak!
J-

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:52 am
by RCSignals
Actually the chest measurement for both the Raider and CS is about the same. The flat measurement for a CS in Ford's size is 22" the Raider 22.5" That translates to a 40" chest measurement with 4" of free room in the jacket.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:45 am
by Satipo
Was Ford really as small as a 40" chest in CS? He looked a lot bigger to me.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:02 am
by RCSignals
I only know the jacket measurement, but the CS jacket did not look 'snug' on him.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:25 am
by Kevin Anderson
Interesting. My CS jacket from Tony is hopefully on it's way shortly. I went with a chest (or armpit to armpit) measurement of 22.5 inches.
My chest measurment is spot on 40 inches around.
I'm wearing a 40R from G&B, which was a surprisingly large chest size of about 23.5 inches. I love it, but I wanted something 'snugger' for the CS.
I wonder if the 1 inch will make much of a noticable difference, or perhaps with the CS being such a different cut to the Raiders, it may actually be
slightly too big. I shall see soon enough!

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:56 am
by orb
My TN CS Jacket is 1:1 HF size. Pit to Pit Measurement is 41.5 Inch.
Even my size 40 Wested TOD is 44 Inch pit to pit! Which feels much smaller as the CS.
But the back of the CS is bigger and the armholes too. The shoulder is 7.25. Raiders is a 7"

Regards

orb

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 4:19 pm
by gladd96
My experience is that while they appear to bigger and looser they are awfuly close in fit to the jackets from the other films in terms of actual measurements. It does seem the sleeves are a bit baggier on the CS Jkt but I think the bulk of what gives a baggier appearance is the stiffness of the cowhide compared to the lamb. My personal CS jacket is very fitted but when unziped it can appear wider across the back due to how it flairs out. If I were to order another CS I believe I'd go with a bigger fit as it would offer more comfort/functionality. Cowhide doesn't seem to agree with a highly tailored look. It does offer a great deal of toughness while still maintaining that soft tactile feel that I really enjoy in leather.

Re: Are Tony Nowak CS jackets supposed to be big and loose?

Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 4:34 pm
by Castor Dioscuri
Just thought I'd piece these two together: here's a picture comparing a slimmer Raiders to a looser CS.