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Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:22 pm
by Rikimaru
I just received my custom LC in washed goat. The first thing I noticed was that the arm holes seemed to be rather low as compared to the first LC I ordered back in 03. So now I def get the flying squirel effect. But I also own a LC from Magnoli and the armholes are low also. So Im assuming that is how the pattern is from the jacket..? Any input would be great!

I'll post pics if needed.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:47 pm
by St. Dumas
Feel like posting some pics of that Magnoli LC? That's a nice looking jacket on his website. He did a good job with the pocket flaps and the wider storm flap.

SD

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:57 pm
by Holt
your assuming correct.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:59 pm
by St. Dumas
Holt's the only other person on COW I recall owning one of these. I can't remember if you still own it, Holt?

SD

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:36 pm
by RCSignals
Indiana Holt wrote:your assuming correct.
The arm holes of the LC were really low?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:26 pm
by Holt
yes, lower then any of the other jackets.


Image

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 6:28 pm
by Holt
St. Dumas wrote:Holt's the only other person on COW I recall owning one of these. I can't remember if you still own it, Holt?

SD

nope, gave it away..

but yes it is full of details. one of the best LC jacket replicas.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:13 pm
by Kevin Anderson
The bottom of the armpit to the hem of the jacket on my last Wested LC measured just 11 inches.
It looked ridiculous.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:26 pm
by RCSignals
11 inches? was the jacket shorter than normal?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:30 pm
by Kevin Anderson
25 inches. That jacket is gone now, thankfully. \:D/
It had gussets, which are a bad idea on a Wested LC, I realise now. They simply make already-too-large armholes even bigger.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:54 pm
by Bilbe
Indiana Holt wrote:yes, lower then any of the other jackets.
Image
I have a veg-tanned LC and that was the first thing I noticed about it. It's slowly breaking in and I'm noticing it less than before. It's funny I kept moving my arms up and down trying to see if it was going to work for me or not. Then I remembered this exact scene from the LC because Indy's arms being held in up in the air. So I went and looked at it and it looked just like my jacket when I had my arms up.

It's more of a suit jacket cut, I think. It's not the exact pose but I think you can get the idea:
Image

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:40 am
by VP
Indiana Holt wrote:yes, lower then any of the other jackets.


Image
Image

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:47 am
by Hatch
VP, thanks for the high res,better lighted pic ....shows up the distressing well also...... You da Man.... :clap:

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:21 pm
by RCSignals
VP wrote:
Indiana Holt wrote:yes, lower then any of the other jackets.


Image
We don't get a good view of the right pocket in that photo but it looks to be a long way back from the zipper. If the jacket is zipped would the left and right pockets look even from the storm flap?

Does anyone know how wide that storm flap is? Looks more than 2"

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:51 pm
by Mac
RCSignals wrote:If the jacket is zipped would the left and right pockets look even from the storm flap?
No.

Image

- Mac

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 5:59 pm
by orb
Mac that's a different LC jacket they used during the Castle scenes.
Just look at the Collar which goes to the middle of the stormflap at the castle picture.

Regards

orb

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:12 pm
by RCSignals
orb wrote:Mac that's a different LC jacket they used during the Castle scenes.
Just look at the Collar which goes to the middle of the stormflap at the castle picture.

Regards

orb
I was just noticing that too.

I wonder if the pocket effect is the same though?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:32 pm
by orb
RCSignals wrote:
We don't get a good view of the right pocket in that photo but it looks to be a long way back from the zipper. If the jacket is zipped would the left and right pockets look even from the storm flap?

Does anyone know how wide that storm flap is? Looks more than 2"
I think that the right pocket is placed away the same distance as the left pocket when you include the stormflap.
That would make sense to me.

Regards

orb

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:43 pm
by RCSignals
orb wrote:
RCSignals wrote:
We don't get a good view of the right pocket in that photo but it looks to be a long way back from the zipper. If the jacket is zipped would the left and right pockets look even from the storm flap?

Does anyone know how wide that storm flap is? Looks more than 2"
I think that the right pocket is placed away the same distance as the left pocket when you include the stormflap.
That would make sense to me.

Regards

orb
i would think so, otherwise why construct the jackets lop sided?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:49 pm
by gwyddion
RCSignals wrote:
orb wrote:
RCSignals wrote:
We don't get a good view of the right pocket in that photo but it looks to be a long way back from the zipper. If the jacket is zipped would the left and right pockets look even from the storm flap?

Does anyone know how wide that storm flap is? Looks more than 2"
I think that the right pocket is placed away the same distance as the left pocket when you include the stormflap.
That would make sense to me.

Regards

orb
i would think so, otherwise why construct the jackets lop sided?
Rush job?

It's kind of the same question as: "why construct a jacket in a way that it fals off the shoulders" or "why construct a jacket with one pointy colartip and one round one". Still it was done.

Regards, Geert

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:54 pm
by Holt
you beat me to it Geert.

I agree.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:07 pm
by Castor Dioscuri
_ wrote:Lowering the armhole, ie the armpit is generally don for one of two reasons:

First, it is the no-brainer way some makers "custom-fit" weightlifters/athletes with large upper arms. It's not the right way by itself.


Second, it is used across sizes to lessen the number of sizes a vendor needs to keep in inventory. Basically, fewer sizes made this way will fit more people.

They're using it to save money, but fit suffers.
Going on the assumption that the jacket made especially for LC had lower armholes, is it safe to say that the jackets were sloppily made? Or did Ford have larger upper arms that called for lowered armholes?

Otherwise, I would assume that the jackets were made as a one-off especially for this movie, and as such, especially for Ford and his doubles. Therefore, I wouldn't think that the jacket was made that way to fit a range of sizes unless they were not really tailor made?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:27 pm
by RCSignals
Was the LC jacket another rush job in the same way as the Raider jacket?

the differences I guess give a lot of lee-way for reproductions

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:42 pm
by Holt
thanx for the info. :tup:

its really interesting to read

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:06 pm
by Raider S
Ford was beefier in the late 80's and suffered briefly from armusgiganticus. Here are the original 'Ford spec' sleeves from LC:

Image

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:14 pm
by Holt
be carefull about saying ''original'' ford specs my friend ;)

especially if your jacket is outsourced from India.. which by the look of that sleeve it probably is..


the LC jacket had wide roomy armholes/bicep area but a tapered lower arm.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 9:56 pm
by Kevin Anderson
I think Raider S was having a laugh, Holt.
There hasn't been a case of 'Armusgiganticus' since the late 18th century. Except perhaps Popeye.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:06 pm
by Holt
yeah.. I just catched his post again... :oops:


I stood on my way to leave the PC when I read it...

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:30 pm
by Mac
Orb wrote:Mac that's a different LC jacket they used during the Castle scenes.
I’m sure you’re right that it’s a different jacket, Orb, but Strones made a pretty compelling case that the Smithsonian jacket posted above was screen used - or else someone did a stellar job in copying the distressing.

viewtopic.php?p=437199#p437199

Looking a little closer though, the picture I posted might be a little misleading. The distressing along the storm flap stitching makes the storm flap look wider and closer to the pocket.

Image
Image


The pockets may be centered on the zipper, or at least very close to centered. I agree with RCSignals that the storm flap appears wider than 1.5”, more like 1.75” or 2”, pushing the zipper-side pocket even further away.

This one is the Chicago jacket, not the Smithsonian jacket - to demonstrate the distressing along the storm flap.

- Mac

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:42 pm
by Holt
smithsonian was screen used.

stormflap is 1.75''

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:45 pm
by RCSignals
Much better pictures. The left pocket also has a wrinkle or crease between it and the storm flap making it appear closer to the storm flap as well

My guess would be if you could measure it, the pockets would be more evenly placed either side of the storm flap.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:47 pm
by RCSignals
Indiana Holt wrote:smithsonian was screen used.

stormflap is 1.75''
Would that be standard for all screen used LC jackets, or just the Smithsonian one?
1.75 makes sense from looking at the photos

Which is the Smithsonian jacket? Wasn't the jacket on display in Chicago the Smithsonian jacket?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:56 pm
by Mac
RCSignals wrote:Much better pictures. The left pocket also has a wrinkle or crease between it and the storm flap making it appear closer to the storm flap as well
Keep in mind that's a different jacket than the one I first posted.

After looking at that first one, the Smithsonian jacket, it seems my eyes are drawn to the distressing beside and parallel to the storm flap, making the pocket appear closer to the flap. A bit of an optical illusion.

I think you're right RC, if measured the pockets would likely be close to centered.

- Mac

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:00 pm
by RCSignals
So, the only glaring difference between the two jackets (Smithsonian and Chicago display) is the placement of the collar in relation to the storm flap.

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 6:46 am
by Bilbe
RCSignals wrote:So, the only glaring difference between the two jackets (Smithsonian and Chicago display) is the placement of the collar in relation to the storm flap.
Is the Chicago jacket on permanent display?

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 8:04 am
by orb
Indiana Holt wrote:be carefull about saying ''original'' ford specs my friend ;)

especially if your jacket is outsourced from India.. which by the look of that sleeve it probably is..


the LC jacket had wide roomy armholes/bicep area but a tapered lower arm.
I have discussed this Armhole thing with Tony. He said the LC Jacket sleeves were the same as Raiders.
After researching the whole screenshots and watching the movie I think he's right.
The LC leather didn't drape as much the Raiders Jacket did.
Could be quite possible that the upper sleeve will then look quite roomier.

Regards

orb

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 9:41 am
by Kevin Anderson
It's a little off topic, but the 'hands in the air' screen-cap shows a great picture of the pocket on the LC jacket.
CM was right; the pocket flap IS huge, almost half the pocket on that jacket.
I love everything about the LC jacket, except the large armholes I keep getting..
Hopefully my next jacket will correct this. [-o<

Re: Low armholes

Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:48 pm
by CM
Yeah, thanks Kev... The new TN has got he idea (why Wested cant do a decent LC is beyond me). I don't think the TN LC has low armholes.