Club Obi Wan

As some of you know from my previous post http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=39166, I was going to trade in my Wested for a G&B expo. The expo arrived today. Here is my comparative analysis.

Keep in mind that I don’t care a fig for screen accuracy. I’m looking for a really, really sturdy and solid leather jacket that will outlive me and only get better with age. There are plenty of discussions elsewhere on SA; I’m only focused on quality, making my personal preference known when applicable.

Also keep in mind that the Wested is cowhide and the G&B is goat. So while it’s not quite apples and oranges, it’s pie made from Fiji apples vs. Granny Smith apples. So the only thing I’ll note on leather is that it feels as if the Wested cow is thicker than the G&B goat. I consider thick good.

The main thing that jumps out at me is the fit. The Wested was a custom job, but it’s basically a 40 Short. Still, even with the side-straps adjusted, the G&B (which is a 40R with the sleeves tucked up) seems to be made for a chunkier man.

The next thing I noticed was the zipper. The Wested zipper feels a lot more substantial than the G&B. I don’t know a lot about zippers, but the Wested has an 8 stamped on the pull while the G&B has a “5Y” on it. My little ruler also says that the teeth are 1mm shorter on the G&B. I don’t know if a heftier zipper translates to strength, but I do like it better. It feels like it would be tougher.

The lining of my custom Wested is cotton body and nylon arms. The G&B is all nylon, which doesn’t feel as comfortable on the body.

This is a big thing for me: the Wested appears to have superior pockets. For one thing, the Wested handwarmer pockets go into the lining of the jacket, so they extend a little beyond the front flap pockets. Not far, but enough to get your whole hand in there. The G&B pocket doesn’t extend beyond the flap pocket, so you have less hand room. Also the Wested pocket is lined with cotton all around. In the G&B, the back of your hand is touching nylon and your palm is resting on leather. Not as warm.

Also on the pockets, I don’t like the snap on the G&B. Two little things. First, the snap-backing is sticking out in the flap pocket, which might snag on something. Also, the female end of the snap is more flush. This means that as the jacket breaks in, you won’t get that little dent of worn leather that shows where the snap is. That’s such a classic look!

The G&B does not have leather facings around the zipper. I don’t care about that one way or the other. Also, the Wested has D-rings and kind of a blunt end on the side-straps. G&B has little rectangular sliders and very sharp ends on its side-straps. I don’t care about that, either.

The way the side straps mount is a little different as well. The Wested has a piece of leather that is just sewn across the top. The G&B kind of goes under the front panel. I’ll grab a picture as it’s hard to describe. I also don’t care about this.

The inside pocket on the Wested has a ton of leather surrounding the inside pocket; the G&B only has a thin leather strip, which I think is the better setup. Plus, I had asked for a second inside pocket and Wested forgot it. If I had asked G&B for a second inside pocket, I have a feeling they would have remembered it. So advantage G&B on this one.

Oh, this has been coming up on the boards of late: the zipper goes down to 1 inch from the bottom of the Wested. The zipper stops 2 inches short of the bottom of the G&B.

Interesting, when I took that last measurement I realized that the G&B is 1.25 inches longer than the Wested. The reason that’s interesting is that I had asked Peter to make the Wested 1” longer, in the style of their old Temple of Doom jacket. Maybe he forgot. Oh those Wested folk…

As far as craftsmanship goes, I’m one of those people who have issues with my Wested thread falling apart in exposed areas. The G&B appears to be exceptionally made. Little details like the pocket construction show the G&B had more care put into it.

I won’t speak about drape; goat needs to be broken in and the cow has had a year of getting knocked around.

So the prognosis: I like my Wested better. I really wanted to like the G&B better. Perhaps if I got a G&B in 39 instead of 40 it would fit a little better. And they could probably change the liner and zipper as a custom job. I don’t know if there’s anything they could do about the pockets, though.

I’m going to keep my Wested (sorry eBay shoppers) and return the G&B. I do, however, strongly endorse G&B. Their customer service was really good and it really is a nice jacket. It’s just not what I’m looking for. I might buy one of their other jackets, depending on how the return policy goes.

Anyway, it will likely take me a day or two to return the Expo, so if anyone wants me to take photos of specific parts for comparison, let me know soon.

And here's a pic of the side-strap thing.


As you can see, on the front, the strap is under the body panel.

You can also see the different fasteners. The different ends of the straps are visible, just keep in mind that it is folded over on the Wested since that's the jacket I've been wearing.

well. the wested you have in your picture is probably an of the rack.it looks like it becuz of those straps. those wested sidestraps are way unaccurate for raiders. it has an empty strap box with D rings. totally wrong.

the G/B is copied form an original raiders stunt jacket. so that jacket is closer to one fo the originals.

Im liking the G/B in this picture.

If SA isn't a big concern, have you thought about a USW? If you get a size that fits well, I don't think they can be beat for quality compared to cost. Plus there's the new ToD style coming up that should solve a couple of problems like the too baggy sleeves.

I don't think G&B will change zippers or do much other than alter the size.

they wont do a thing. I have checked with them...

[quote="Indiana Holt"]well. the wested you have in your picture is probably an of the rack.it looks like it becuz of those straps. quote]

Well, since I purchased a custom, if it's OTR, I have a bone to pick with Peter.

Seriously, though, I'm confident that this was custom made, just because it fits like it was. I have broad shoulders and I'm kind of short. It fits to the measurements that I sent to Gemma.

I'll stick with the Wested; it's already broken in.

ok...

but still the details are way of on the straps. they should know better...

It all comes down to personal opinion. I'd think you'd be hard pressed to find a jacket more durable than the G and B.

Indiana Holt wrote:ok...

but still the details are way of on the straps. they should know better...

D'rings are wrong. But not everyone asks for or wants x box stitching.

AdaminNYC wrote:And here's a pic of the side-strap thing.


As you can see, on the front, the strap is under the body panel.

You can also see the different fasteners. The different ends of the straps are visible, just keep in mind that it is folded over on the Wested since that's the jacket I've been wearing.

If I were you and you want that Wested to last better I'd loosen up those straps .....looks it's really putting a strain on those seams ,stitching

Kt Templar wrote:
D'rings are wrong. .

exactly my point...



and it shouldnt matter if they asked or didnt ask about rec sliders or X box stitching.

the jackets should all be made like they should be made. 1 set of SA details! thats it...

As you can see, on the front, the strap is under the body panel.

Is this a SA detail that Wested again misses? Is this something that you need to request? Holt, can you chime in what you did with your SA Wested jacket?

that detail was on one of the stunt jackets....

it wasnt on any of the hero jackets....

you dont have to request this... request Xbox...

Oh I'll be requesting the Xbox for sure. Just have to make sure that I have the most details I can for Wested before I submit my order. The collar and back panel are the two things I'm having the most difficulty with.

Or just get a Nowak and you don't have to worry about the details...

Raider S wrote:Or just get a Nowak and you don't have to worry about the details...

If I could afford one... I would. With the Canadian dollar's exchange on the US $ its brutal. It's about $900 for a TN jacket, versus $330 for a Wested. I can't fathom spending almost $1000 on a jacket

Yeah, the price can be a killer. But I was just having some fun like all the Wested guys like to do in the Nowak threads.

But seriously, how about a G&B then...

Raider S wrote:Yeah, the price can be a killer. But I was just having some fun like all the Wested guys like to do in the Nowak threads.

But seriously, how about a G&B then...

no problems, I see that a lot. G&B, too big for my frame, need to get the ROLA 80's fit for it to fit right.

Well, there are different themes going on in this thread, screen accuracy vs. toughness. Still, I have a few comments on AdaminNYC’s review.

First off, I would say that he probably needs a 38 in a G&B Expo. I’m a 46, but I wear a 44 in an Expo (he says the sleeves are “tucked up”).

He’s got a heavier gauge zipper on his Wested. It’s an “8”. The standard for an Indy jacket is a “5” gauge. An “8” is just more substantial.

G&B uses the same type of snaps as TN. They might not be what you like, but they’re quality. No arguing with the handwarmer pockets. That’s about the only thing I don’t care for on the Expo design. (One weird thing that has not been brought up before are the holes in the lining of the pockets where the opening of the bottom of the handwarmer pocket is, on a TN Indy 1).

The lining is up to personal taste. I find cotton clingy on the body.

I have to say that I find it strange that someone that is so concerned with toughness would have a problem with the Expo (Indiana Jones details aside). IT’s the toughest Indy jacket out there period.

I'll post my thoughts on a comparison between the two jackets shortly, though I must admit I slightly biased against
Wested these days, after several disappointments.
I have a 40R G&B goat on the way. I wear a 42R normally, so it would seem I've chosen wisely!
Might I add, G&B's customer service was fantastic. The salesperson who answered the phone really knew the product.
That's rare these days, in my experience.

Unlke my fellow NYer AdaminNYC, I have not had the benefit of physically handling in person a Wested, but have had the experience of handling, oh, about 10,000 leather jackets over the past few years, and while I wouldn't put my life on it, I have come across VERY few leather jackets, even from some well-known high-end designers, that can compete in overall quality and materials with a G&B goat.

Maybe _ and others who have seen so many thousands of jackets after a while would understand, you begin to build up a "jacket eye" skill that allows one to kind of size up a jacket, leather dye/tanning quality, stitching, etc. very quickly, sometimes even by looking at just a photo of the jacket.

Personally, I agree with the earlier poster who said that he preferred the G&B just from the picture AdaminNYC posted. I am not feeling it for the leather shown in the photo.

That being said, G&B does allow for some sizing mods and you might be able to obtain a modified 38 or 40. Obviously a custom is going to fit better than a non-custom.

As for the lining, cotton will generally cling to you when you sweat, and will wear out faster than many other linings unless its a cotton drill like Aero uses, that's why you can wear the G&B even in rather warmer weather, its hybrid lining breathes quite well, even allowing sweat to flow through it.

Bottom line, and I might be biased as I admittedly have not handled a TN either, but IMHO cannot see why anyone would think they can do better than a G&B, it's that good of a jacket (second only to Aero IMHO).