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Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 6:35 pm
by jnicktem
After looking at Erri's GREAT post comparing the NH, a Wested, and a Todd's shirt, I decided to take some comparison shots of the AB and a NH (since Erri doesn't have an AB... yet).

First, let me explain that I am not exactly an expert when it comes to design and placement of shirts... so for the most part, I took these pictures for the real experts to talk about.

The epaulettes are a bit different... the ones on the NH shirt are longer than the ones on the AB. (NH on top, AB on bottom):

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The sleeve cuffs are the same length on both (2 3/4"). (NH on left, AB on right):

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The button placement is pretty close, although the NH has 5 buttons (does not include the collar button) and the AB has 7 buttons (again, not including the collar button), AB on top, NH on bottom:

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The Pleats do not match up exactly (compared from the edge of the shirt, so you can see how far off the pleats are from each other). NH shirt on top, AB on bottom:

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http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/j ... dab008.jpg

Although, when aligned, the pleats are the same size (NH on left, AB on right):

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The size of the pockets are the same (AB on left, NH on right):

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So there you have it... if anyone has any requests, let me know and I will try my best.

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:23 pm
by Bullitt
Thanks! I have an AB myself, but there are not many review featuring them. On a side note, it was my understanding that Marc used a NH or MBA shirt as the template. However, that doesn't explain why the epaulettes are a bit off on the AB. :-k

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:02 pm
by theinterchange
I must say, I prefer the AB to the NH. Thanks, all these comparison posts are VERY helpful!

Randy

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:24 pm
by TheExit148
I love my AB shirt. The colour is perfect. My only complaint really is the position of the epaulettes. They sit slightly forward instead of directly on the top of the shoulder. Other then that, fine job AB has done. Very nice comparison. Interesting to see the slight differences between them.

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:26 pm
by Mitch LaRue
TheExit148 wrote:My only complaint really is the position of the epaulettes. They sit slightly forward instead of directly on the top of the shoulder.
Hmmm...
:-k
That's right.

In the first photo you can see how on the NH shirt the "forward-facing" edge of the epaulette runs along the seam of the shirt (with the epaulette itself resting on the "back-slope" - or yolk - of the shirt.)

On th AB the epaulette is lined up (centered, really) with that same seam.
So, assuming that SEAM is also slighlty forward on the shirt, the NH epaulettes WOULD look flat on top of the shoulders - with the epaulettes on the AB seeming slighlty too tipped forward.

I'll say this, those AB shirts are just tiny little design nudges away from being dead-on dopplegangers for the NH. (Some like me - might even say "superior" :shock: ...Sorry, but I just LOVE how rippled and wrinkly looking those ABs get!)

Don't HATE me, NH Fans!
:Plymouth:
I STILL think NH is the KING!

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 3:38 pm
by TheExit148
Mitch LaRue wrote:
TheExit148 wrote:My only complaint really is the position of the epaulettes. They sit slightly forward instead of directly on the top of the shoulder.
Hmmm...
:-k
That's right.

In the first photo you can see how on the NH shirt the "forward-facing" edge of the epaulette runs along the seam of the shirt (with the epaulette itself resting on the "back-slope" - or yolk - of the shirt.)

On th AB the epaulette is lined up (centered, really) with that same seam.
So, assuming that SEAM is also slighlty forward on the shirt, the NH epaulettes WOULD look flat on top of the shoulders - with the epaulettes on the AB seeming slighlty too tipped forward.
Mitch, I never even noticed that! Hmmm.... :-k I may see if a tailor would be able to move them back to match the seam on the shirt. On my Todd's (actually wearing at this moment) they do not line up with the seem, they react like the AB ones. But the Todd seam is higher on the shoulder then the AB shirt so they sit right on the top of the shoulders. Interesting little notice there Mitch, good find!

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:14 pm
by Mitch LaRue
Thanks!
You know, I've got a question that I'm embarrassed to even have to ask... but I was over on the ABDeluxe Website and just could NOT find the price of the shirt!
Maybe I'm getting dumber as the years go by... or maybe I'm just tired (and in my defence, it WAS a REALLY ROUGH week at work) but can someone please tell me how much one of the AS Shirts will set me back? (As well as maybe WHERE it says that?)
Thanks in advance,
Mitch
:)

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:40 pm
by theinterchange
I'd like to know that as well. It seems as if I've seen several different prices around.

Randy

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:34 am
by Erri
Glad I inspired this review... (I was inspired myself from kiltie hats review) ... as there are not many on the AB shirts. I do recall Marc telling me that they based their shirt on the old (MBA) design so I did expect a different placement of the buttons from the NH and, consequentially, the pockets also appear in different position.
I believe minimal details were also slightly changed from the MBA design but that is only a guess. Thanks a lot for the pictures!

I'm also curious about the AB shirt price! EDIT: price here viewtopic.php?f=16&t=39333&p=556033#p556033

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 12:55 pm
by TheExit148
Mitch LaRue wrote:Thanks!
You know, I've got a question that I'm embarrassed to even have to ask... but I was over on the ABDeluxe Website and just could NOT find the price of the shirt!
Maybe I'm getting dumber as the years go by... or maybe I'm just tired (and in my defence, it WAS a REALLY ROUGH week at work) but can someone please tell me how much one of the AS Shirts will set me back? (As well as maybe WHERE it says that?)
Thanks in advance,
Mitch
:)
Well Mitch, from one fellow Canadian to another, the shirt with shipping cost about $110 CDN. The shipping was super fast! I ordered it around 3pm Eastern on a Thursday, Kim said it shipped Friday. Monday around 2pm I had received the shirt! CRAZY! \:D/ was me at work! They go for 69 euro's shipped I believe, so just drop Marc an email and he'll get you setup.

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 1:27 pm
by Alkali Jones
Hey All,

I know this is a little late in the discussion, but here's a picture of a screen used shirt that was taken by Kt Templar. It shows the correct position of the button/shoulder strap and the relationship to the "pleat". (I'd have posted it sooner, but the link wouldn't work for a couple of days.)

Image

Hope that helps. I think this shows that either: there was tremendous variation between screen used shirts, or: there was some "detail creep" even with NH product. This shirt came from NH and does not match his product, a problem that his pants had also.

Dan S

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:56 pm
by Erri
The trousers were on the verge to be improved (I'm talking of the pocket shape) but we all know what happened :cry:

As for the shirt I think in the most recent NH model there was still a lot of "legacy" from the MBA which, I believe, was from Last Crusade patterns

Image

I notice that the epaulettes in the Todd shirt are RIGHT above the pleats and so are the AB while on the original they appear to be higher up towards the neck. Something else... the AB and Todd's put the button more correctly "on" the seam while all the others (NH & Wested) are placed slightly on the back (that's more of a LC look). So, in the end, NONE of the shirts in offer is REALLY accurate on all points. I wonder if Peter will make good use of the details he documented from the original shirt, there is a chance we might have in the end "the ultimate" shirt... fingers crossed! (hint hint)

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 12:37 pm
by Alkali Jones
Hey All,

I don't know if the shoulder strap is positioned incorrectly so much as the top shoulder seam is positioned too far forward. Instead of on top of the shoulder, the seam is over the shoulder towards the front. If you then put the shoulder strap on that seam, it will of course be too far forward. The devil is always in the details!

Dan S

Re: Shirt Comparison: NH and AB

Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:02 pm
by IndianaJack91
very nice comparrison