Club Obi Wan

I like the ROLA as its more SA, but can you get the ROLA version and get the standard cut instead? I asked Peter about the difference between 80s cut and standard cut and that I believe 80s is a slimmer cut. He replied, "No real difference apart from the cut."

I'm 6'3", 220 lbs and am mostly slender (I got a little gut but am going to the gym so I may lose it and bulk up a little) so I guess the 80s cut will be okay. I will get a 42 with 27" length and sleeves in a authentic brown, most likely. So...how do people like the version they got and which one did they get? This is my 1st time ordering a custom and can't afford to reorder again and again to get it 'right'. (How does Holt do it? ). Thanks!

So what size jacket do you wear? 46L, or what?

Imahomer wrote:So what size jacket do you wear? 46L, or what?

No, not that big. My G&B is a 44L but Holt told me I should get a 42L for a Wested.

ok. Well I asked that because I'm 6' 3" and about 210# and usually wear a 46L. Don't forget the sleeves will shorten up on you if you buy new.




Mike

the differ between the 80's cut and the standard is the tapered waist.

but let me say, after some hard time studying this pattern and by looking at screen grabs and the 000/888 hero jacket tutorial thread.. I see that the 80's cut from wested today is not completly rigth, it is not the same as it was. and we cant expect that after 30 years, the chest on todays jackets is to wide and the tapered wasit is a tad to narrow.


the 000/888 hero pattern (former 919/80's cut) is just tapered by 1'' towards the waist and the 80's cut from wested is not tapered by just 1'', it is more.....

can you see how much work I put into these jacket?

but remember this is just my opinion, I am NOT saying this IS correct at all.... just sharing my thoughts thats all....

Is it possible to get a standard cut but with ROLA specs?

there is no difference between rola specs and standard specs. patterns yes! specs no.... ( specs are details. pockets. straps etc.)

you just say I want a standard jacket without facings and all the important SA specs.

look at agent5 detailed spec list, you'll find what you need there...

just glue those specs on a standard jacket and your good to go.

wested does that all the time.

Imahomer wrote:ok. Well I asked that because I'm 6' 3" and about 210# and usually wear a 46L. Don't forget the sleeves will shorten up on you if you buy new.




Mike

Thanks Mike. My suit jacket is a 43L and again my G&B is a 44L. But Holt and someone else told me to get a 42L. I figured 27" for sleeve length since that what it is from shoulder to my thumb knuckle. I believe I read that somewhere to use. I'll have to give Peter or Gemma a call this week.

Indiana Holt wrote:there is no difference between rola specs and standard specs. patterns yes! specs no.... ( specs are details. pockets. straps etc.)

you just say I want a standard jacket without facings and all the important SA specs.

look at agent5 detailed spec list, you'll find what you need there...

just glue those specs on a standard jacket and your good to go.

wested does that all the time.

Thanks Holt. I was looking at agent5's list and I think that's the way to go.

JC1972 wrote:

Imahomer wrote:My suit jacket is a 43L and again my G&B is a 44L. But Holt and someone else told me to get a 42L. I figured 27" for sleeve length since that what it is from shoulder to my thumb knuckle. I believe I read that somewhere to use. I'll have to give Peter or Gemma a call this week.

If the G & B is a 44L, and it fits you well, then a size 42L in a Wested is going to be TIGHT on you.
The G & B jackets, which tend to have a more modern, looser fit, are not quite as tight fitting as the
Westeds, which have a truer military fit.

Since you wear a size 43L in a suit jacket, then a size 42 in the Wested will only give you about 3 inches
of movement room, versus the over 6 inches you have in your G & B. Thats a HUGE difference in the
way the jackets fit you.

If you put on anything but a teeshirt or dress shirt under the size 42L Wested its going to be very
restrictive when you try to move around.

Be VERY VERY sure if you really want to go DOWN a size in the Wested. Most people order their
normal size for a snug military fit, or go UP a size for a more modern fit like the G & B has.

You yourself said you can't afford to reorder again and again to get it right, so make REALLY
sure you want a jacket that might make you look like a stuffed sausage when you zip it up.

If you look at the pictures that Holt has posted showing himself wearing his jackets, he tends to
like a tighter and shorter fit. And thats great. But most people don't like that, as they are more
used to the modern looser and longer fit of todays fashions.

If its a tight fit and look your after, then thats fine. But be darned sure thats what you really want, and
WILL get, ordering a jacket one size smaller than you would normally wear as compared to what you
are used to in the G & B.

Flathead

I agree, if your normal suit jacket is 43, I would be worried about getting less than a 43 in a Wested. 44 or 45 as a custom would be my choice. And don't choose 80's fit unless you are sure you want it tight either.

Thanks Flathead & KT. I thought 42 would be too small but since I never got a Wested, I didn't know. The site tells you to measure your chest loose, not tight but that's the way I'm used to measuring. This is why I'm confused.
Below is what Hatch and Holt said in another thread:

Hatch:
I saw your sizes etc on another thread and thought it was a mistake......if your chest measures a tight40 in (figure a loose 41) looks like you'd take a size 42 . don't forget the 4 inches of extra wiggle room built into the regular fit.......a size 44 would give you 7 in of extra wiggle room........unless you really like them baggy of have a lot of gut to work off ,seems would swallow you.....

Holt:
right,the 44 should have a 48 chest..

so like hatch said it will be BAGGY on you... you can take a swim in it if you like...

I would recommend you a 42 if you like the jacket on the looser side...

JC1972 wrote:Thanks Flathead & KT. I thought 42 would be too small but since I never got a Wested, I didn't know. The site tells you to measure your chest loose, not tight but that's the way I'm used to measuring. This is why I'm confused.
Below is what Hatch and Holt said in another thread:

Hatch:
I saw your sizes etc on another thread and thought it was a mistake......if your chest measures a tight40 in (figure a loose 41) looks like you'd take a size 42 . don't forget the 4 inches of extra wiggle room built into the regular fit.......a size 44 would give you 7 in of extra wiggle room........unless you really like them baggy of have a lot of gut to work off ,seems would swallow you.....

Holt:
right,the 44 should have a 48 chest..

so like hatch said it will be BAGGY on you... you can take a swim in it if you like...

I would recommend you a 42 if you like the jacket on the looser side...

These quotes are refering to a person who is a size 40, NOT a size 43/44 like you are.

Of course a size 44 jacket will be baggy on a person who is normally a size 40. That would
be going up 2 sizes for this person, which is why they recommened this person going up only to
a size 42.

That way, the guy with the size 40 would be going up only ONE size, just like
I said in my previous post, which would give this person a more modern, looser
fit versus a snug military fit.

You are basically a size 44, since your chest measures 43 inches. To go down to
a size 42 jacket is going to net you one tight fit.

Flathead

But they were referring to me. Sorry, I should've stated that. My chest is a little over 40 when measured tight.

Oh. In your original post, you stated that you wore a size 43L suit jacket.

If you are indeed really a size 40/41, do you really wear a size 43L
suit jacket?

If you are wearing size 43L jackets, and you are really a size 40/41, then you
are used to wearing jackets that are loose and baggy on you.

And that G & B must look like a tent on you if your chest really is 40/41
inches!! That thing must have almost 10 inches of movement room on
you!

Its these types of discrepancies that make it hard to give help in finding
the correct size for you.

Flathead

I do wear a 43L suit jacket, that's what the tailors at Jos. A. Bank told me to get, I guess I have broad shoulders, 21" from end to end. Here's a pic of me in the 44L (or T as they call it) G&B.

The way the shoulder seam looks as if it's 2" or so down your shoulder, I would think that you could wear a 42L, or maybe even a 40 if the sleeve length was right. That 44T looks too big in my opinion...

~Jace

Tyrloch wrote:The way the shoulder seam looks as if it's 2" or so down your shoulder, I would think that you could wear a 42L, or maybe even a 40 if the sleeve length was right. That 44T looks too big in my opinion...

~Jace

A lot of people here thought it looked perfect, I forgot about this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33422&p=471361&hili ... 4T#p471361

Well, my chest is a bit over 40" plus I have fairly wide shoulders, and I wear a 40R in a Wested or a G&B. Granted the G&B feels roomier than the Wested, but neither is what I would say is tight in the chest -- it's more the fact that they're cut differently. And ultimately, it doesn't really matter what anyone else says about how the jacket fits you, but how YOU think it fits you...

~Jace

Thanks Jace. Well I have been working out, which I just started to do in the past year. So maybe I can fill in a little with muscle.

Out of interest JC, what is the shoulder measurement on that G&B? It does look long.
I'd guess about 7.5 inches?

Do you have any pictures of you wearing the G & B zipped up?

You seem to have the sleeve and body length down. I am tall like you,
and short jackets look especially stupid on us. Yours is just right for
your height.

Since the fit of a jacket is a personal thing, no one but YOU can determine
if a jacket is too loose, too tight, or just right.

All the advise you get from people here, including myself, should be taken
with a grain of salt, and NOT taken as gospel in anyway. No matter who you get it from.

With that said, here is my advise to you, and what I use to get a jacket that fits ME the
way I like it, not the way anyone else says it should fit like.

Take a jacket that you already own, and that you like the way it fits you, and is comfortable,
like the G&B you have shown, or any other jacket that you like, and zip it up, and lay it flat
on your bed, with the chest/zipper facing up.

Smooth it out, and then measure it from one armpit to the other, across the chest. Write
this number down. Then, double it, and write that down. This doubled number is the total chest
measurement of the jacket.

Then flip the jacket over, smooth it out, and measure it from the base of the collar, straight
down the back, to the very bottom. Write this number down. This is the total back length
of the jacket.

Then, measure one sleeve from the shoulder seam, down the OUTSIDE edge of the sleeve,
all the way to the end of the cuff. Write this number down. This is the total sleeve length.

Now, since we know that Wested incorporates 4 inches of movement room into their Raiders
jackets for a true military fit, you can now zone in on what size will fit you the way YOU like it to.

If the jacket you own, and measured for example, has a total chest measurement of say 50 inches,
then you subtract 4 inches from that to get the size Wested that has the closest chest
measurement to that, which will be a size 46.

If your jacket measured 48 inches for example, then that would mean a size 44 Wested is the
closest match, and so on.

You can take this info, along with the back length and sleeve length YOU like, and find the
Wested that will be the best fit for you. And you can see if you need the long size or not
by comparing your measurements with what Wested has posted on their website.

But whether YOU like a loose modern fit, or a snug military fit, is entirely up to YOU, and
only YOU should deside that.

I think the G&B looks good on you also. Its not too tight, and its not too short. Tight
short jackets look funny, and are not practical or comfortable.

A jacket that is slightly too big can always be worn with extra layers, and is comfortable.

A jacket that is slightly too tight will end up hanging in the closet, never to be worn, and
you will curse it everytime you open the closet door.

Flathead

FLATHEAD wrote:Do you have any pictures of you wearing the G & B zipped up?

You seem to have the sleeve and body length down. I am tall like you,
and short jackets look especially stupid on us. Yours is just right for
your height.

Since the fit of a jacket is a personal thing, no one but YOU can determine
if a jacket is too loose, too tight, or just right.

All the advise you get from people here, including myself, should be taken
with a grain of salt, and NOT taken as gospel in anyway. No matter who you get it from.

With that said, here is my advise to you, and what I use to get a jacket that fits ME the
way I like it, not the way anyone else says it should fit like.

Take a jacket that you already own, and that you like the way it fits you, and is comfortable,
like the G&B you have shown, or any other jacket that you like, and zip it up, and lay it flat
on your bed, with the chest/zipper facing up.

Smooth it out, and then measure it from one armpit to the other, across the chest. Write
this number down. Then, double it, and write that down. This doubled number is the total chest
measurement of the jacket.

Then flip the jacket over, smooth it out, and measure it from the base of the collar, straight
down the back, to the very bottom. Write this number down. This is the total back length
of the jacket.

Then, measure one sleeve from the shoulder seam, down the OUTSIDE edge of the sleeve,
all the way to the end of the cuff. Write this number down. This is the total sleeve length.

Now, since we know that Wested incorporates 4 inches of movement room into their Raiders
jackets for a true military fit, you can now zone in on what size will fit you the way YOU like it to.

If the jacket you own, and measured for example, has a total chest measurement of say 50 inches,
then you subtract 4 inches from that to get the size Wested that has the closest chest
measurement to that, which will be a size 46.

If your jacket measured 48 inches for example, then that would mean a size 44 Wested is the
closest match, and so on.

You can take this info, along with the back length and sleeve length YOU like, and find the
Wested that will be the best fit for you. And you can see if you need the long size or not
by comparing your measurements with what Wested has posted on their website.

But whether YOU like a loose modern fit, or a snug military fit, is entirely up to YOU, and
only YOU should deside that.

I think the G&B looks good on you also. Its not too tight, and its not too short. Tight
short jackets look funny, and are not practical or comfortable.

A jacket that is slightly too big can always be worn with extra layers, and is comfortable.

A jacket that is slightly too tight will end up hanging in the closet, never to be worn, and
you will curse it everytime you open the closet door.

Flathead

Thanks Flathead, wow this is great! Here are some pics I just took, sorry as my photographer (wife) is at work. I hope these do and I do see how in the shoulders, the jacket looks a little big.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_1986.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_1989.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_1993.jpg

The jacket does not look that big.

But you do need to loosen the side straps up. They are pulled way too tight.

Other than that, I think its a good fit for a tall guy. Remember, you don't want
a super tight, super short, just at the waist jacket. It will not look good at all.

Plus, even if it is a bit big, its probably very comfortable, and you can actually
move around in it, and do stuff.

Flathead

JC1972, that is one nice looking jacket. What hide did you get, that looks very Raiders. The pockets are very nice and the jacket looks great. I would adjust the side straps as mentioned so that they are not pulled too tight. Looks like you got a standard cut, very nice. Don't be too concerned about the baggyness of the jacket, Raiders jacket was a bit baggy anyway. Plus it will be a nice jacket to wear in the winter, you can wear a sweatshirt probably underneath it and still be warm. Nice looking jacket.

IndianaChris

IndianaChris711 wrote:JC1972, that is one nice looking jacket. What hide did you get, that looks very Raiders. The pockets are very nice and the jacket looks great. I would adjust the side straps as mentioned so that they are not pulled too tight. Looks like you got a standard cut, very nice. Don't be too concerned about the baggyness of the jacket, Raiders jacket was a bit baggy anyway. Plus it will be a nice jacket to wear in the winter, you can wear a sweatshirt probably underneath it and still be warm. Nice looking jacket.

IndianaChris

Lambskin

And here's a Land's End Bond-like jacket from Casino Royale which is a XL 46-48 over my WPG Indy shirt:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_1996.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/J ... G_1997.jpg