Club Obi Wan

Fedora wrote:

(btw steve - 3 stitches on the corner of the bow? i use 2 that are directly on top of each other......less to look at when you examine the hat under a magnifying glass which i'm sure everyone does

But back to the stitches. I may put an extra one if I think it is needed, and I try not to use the same holes as previous ones. This rabbit felt is weak, so you have to tailor your stitches so they don't pull loose, which means depending upon the "feel" I may add another. But I go through the ribbon and felt 6 times on the stitches that secure the ends of the bow to the hat. And I use braided nylon thread for strength. Fedora

So, on the advice of Michaelson in the "Damage" thread (no pun intended again), so as not to lose this knowledge to being buried alive in another thread, I would like to initiate the discussion of the merits of the threads used for sewing in sweatbands & ribbons. Not only the threads themselves and their color choices, but maybe even the needles used & the stitching methods & possibly photos showing the stitching that each maker uses for the different items on the hat (i.e. lock stitch). Like how does one sew in the liner without fully penetrating the felt on the outside? does it take a special kind of needle? That would be interesting to see.

Fedora wrote:

braided nylon thread.......WOW........that is serious stuff.

Yeah, but really strong thread, and being nylon, it isn't as suceptable to rot from sweat. It is upholstery thread actually, that I buy online. I recall sending Optimo 2 brand new Federations years ago for him to reblock with the block he was using for his Indy hats. I was shocked to see how someone removed the sweats. They just grabbed them and ripped them out! The reeding tape that you sew through was in really bad shape due to this method. I had requested that he re use the same sweats since I like em, and they were brand new. I often dream about someone sending him an AB, and would love to be a fly on the wall when whoever it was, grabbed my sweat and tried to just rip it out! That dog wouldn't hunt. We try to use materials that are very durable, even down to the type of thread.

If an AB owner ever finds himself in a survival situation, you could removed the single long braided nylon thread that holds the sweat in, and use it for fishing line!! Since I use lock stitches to secure the sweats in, there is about 3 feet of nylon line there under that sweatband. Or, a great snare line as well. Might hold a rabbit! Fedora

What is the color used? From the discussion it sounds like normal upholstery thread, am I wrong on this account? Is there only one great source for this or does any upholstery store carry this particular braided nylon thread?
How did you come upon the idea of using this instead of regular thread or even quilting thread? Would love to hear the methods to your madness.

Oh, Steve, when you say lock stitch is it similar to the saddle stitching that is used in sewing leather together?

Well folks, thank you in advance for any contributions to this discussion. Always eager to learn & see more.

Cheers & Happy Hatting!!

Dan

Oh well, thought I'd try anyway. On to the next subject I suppose.

Cheers!

Dan

Im kinda curious about this myself. Could a person use something like a small lb test braided line like PowerPro or Spider?

Randy

i don't know what that is. when i made my first couple of hats, i used the really robust apholstery thread on the sweats....big thick stuff and you needed a pretty big needle to stitch them in. the trouble with this stuff is that the stitching would show through the ribbon!

i still use upholstery thread for the sweat (on the hat and to sew them together), but i use a smaller variety. i took a couple of my hats apart already so i know that this would be really difficult to "rip" out....you gotta cut it out unless you want to be wearing a shriner cap

i use normal fabric thread for the little white bow as well as the ribbon work. i thought that fabric thread would not hold up so well on the ribbon bow but i've demolitioned one of my bows as well and i would probably think you'd rip the ribbon grosgrain before the thread.

and since we're talking about thread ................for a reblock, i sew in a string 'tab' at the front of the brim as close to center as i can for when i do a reblock. on a dimensional cut, you want to ensure that you are blocking it correctly and that the front is on the front........a couple of times when i didn't do this, i got incorrect dimensions on the brim after i tied it on to the block........the front was probably laying somewhere on the 2,5,8, or 11 o'clock position .........another 'test' body was born.........

when i redo a hat, i chuck it back in the sink and then ontop of the boiling pot......sometimes, you lose touch of where exactly the front was.

It's braided fishing line. And oh yeah, I meant for sewing in sweats, not ribbons! That'd look royally dorky.. or like most fedoras you find at WalMart or Target, whichever comes first.

Randy

Thanks guys! I'm liking the exchange. Indiana G, what color of upholstery thread do you use and what gage or size is it? I'm thinking of redoing an old campaign hat, so I know it will hold up to this kind of thread but I want to make sure that I'm no using something too large.

Cheers!

Dan

hello.. hello.. some echo in here.

Randy

Hey there,

I use a nice waxed thread to sew sweats in. It is actually used in making bow strings (bow and arrows, not violins). Its
Brownell's B-50 waxed polyester bowstring. It is great...its cheap and they have a few good colors that match a lot of the felt out there. Its cheap and it slides through so easy. The strength of this stuff is incredible!!

Just my 2 cents,

and Indy G....as soon as my shoulder feels better....I am ready for a face off on sewing sweats in....lol

Ohio Jones wrote:Hey there,

I use a nice waxed thread to sew sweats in. It is actually used in making bow strings (bow and arrows, not violins). Its
Brownell's B-50 waxed polyester bowstring. It is great...its cheap and they have a few good colors that match a lot of the felt out there. Its cheap and it slides through so easy. The strength of this stuff is incredible!!

Just my 2 cents,

and Indy G....as soon as my shoulder feels better....I am ready for a face off on sewing sweats in....lol

you're on buddy!





DJ, on the thread question, let me check for you.....i gotta find it as i put away the hat making kit.......for now..........

that's helpful Ohio!

Randy

I use upolstry thread to sew in my sweats like Steve. I use regular thread for the ribbon. I use 3 different size needles. 1 for the sweatband. 1 for the ribbon. 1 for the liner and sweatband bow. I bend all my needles as soon as I get them.

bend them on purpose or accidentally?

Randy

theinterchange wrote:bend them on purpose or accidentally?

Randy

On purpose.

Bending the needles makes it easier to thread in and back through the felt.

figured it was something like that.. but didn't know if he was refering to clumsiness.

Randy

bending the needles gives you grip

Bending the needles. Interesting. Would that be somewhat of a sharp angle like 120 degrees of a gentler curve. My Mom used to have a slew of the curved needles, I think that they were for upholstery work but also worked good with leather. I would think that any sewing store might carry them. I'll have to look into that and get back with a source or at least a brand. I know I use some vintage needles that are very fine but are virtually unbreakable that I have used for a variety of sewing jobs. Some ones my Pop had in his Army sewing repair kit back in 1950, and still used today.

Does the bent needle help in sewing part way through the felt in the case of the liner?

What size needle does one use for sewing in the sweatband anyway?

Thanks for looking into that Indiana G, most appreciated.

Cheers!

Dan

It's a slight bend not a sharp one. I have curved ones but for some reason it doesn't work as well as the bent ones. I would love to have better needles that don't bend or brake. I brake so many needles.

BendingOak wrote:It's a slight bend not a sharp one. I have curved ones but for some reason it doesn't work as well as the bent ones. I would love to have better needles that don't bend or brake. I brake so many needles.

So, do you bend them with the fingers, a pair of pliers or in a vice with a plier?

Cheers!

Dan

DanielJones wrote:So, do you bend them with the fingers, a pair of pliers or in a vice with a plier?

Cheers!

Dan

My will. Like I do everything else. Just my fingers.

I simply assumed you used the Force.

Dave

That would be easier.. just one simple motion or thought and all needles will be perfect.

Randy