Club Obi Wan

Alright, I plan to purchase my first wested soon. I've done alot of research. But before I ordered anything I wanted some advice from the most knowledgeable people on the subject.
Practicality is my main concern. I want a jacket that not only looks like Indy's, but can behave like his (within reason). I'd like it to be a jacket I can wear in town as well as the bush. So basically, I need a durable leather. I was thinking Goatskin, but would Cowhide be more durable? Also, which ages better? I would like the jacket to stay brown rather than grey (which I heard some leathers do). Of course I will treat the jacket with Pecards.
Also, when I got my tailor to measure me, he said that the way the wested order form asked for my arm measurement was different from the way he'd normally do it. Does anyone have a tip for getting accurate measurements?
Essentially, this is probably the only Indy jacket I will ever be able to own, so I want something thick and durable. I realize this post is getting to be an unruly length, so I'll end it here, but i'm sure I'll have more questions later on.
Thanks in advance
JockThePilot

JockThePilot wrote:.....Practicality is my main concern. I want a jacket that not only looks like Indy's, but can behave like his (within reason). I'd like it to be a jacket I can wear in town as well as the bush. So basically, I need a durable leather. I was thinking Goatskin, but would Cowhide be more durable? Also, which ages better? I would like the jacket to stay brown rather than grey (which I heard some leathers do).... I want something thick and durable.

Well, thick and durable makes me think of cowhide. With that, you also get warmth. It is a very durable hide but not quite a durable as goatskin.

When you say "ages better," that could mean different things to different people. On the one hand, it could be you may want a jacket that is going to distress quickly for the Indy lived-in, been-on-a-lot-of-adventures look. Or, perhaps you mean you want it to remain looking pristine despite its use in town as well as the bush.

For the former, pre-distressed cowhide will get you faster than the others because, well, that's what it is---already distressed when you get it so it looks like it's seen some field time. For the latter Flightsuits seal chrome goatskin Expedition. No wait, you said Wested. Well, goatskin is one tough leather but I will mention that the authentic-colored goatskin is so much thinner than the cowhide offerings. I mean, they are really worlds apart in thickness so keep that in mind.

If you want the cowhide factor and want the aging to come more naturally, I suppose you could go for lambtouch but I'm not going to comment on that since I don't have personal experience with that particular jacket or hide. I'm sure some of the other helpful Gearheads will post regarding that one.

Let us know on what you decide,

I.J.

JockThePilot wrote:Also, when I got my tailor to measure me, he said that the way the wested order form asked for my arm measurement was different from the way he'd normally do it. Does anyone have a tip for getting accurate measurements?

Give as many measurements as possible. Some guys around here even give the waist measurement and beer-belly measurement (hint - the actual waist measurement should be different that your pants waist measurement). These are the measurements that my mother, a professional costume designer/maker, took for my Wested orders:

Jacket size (hint - order the next size up if you are going to want to put a sweater on during the winter or want a little extra room when you zip up. I wear a 41R but got a 42R and it fits wonderfully)

Height

Chest (take this around the widest part of your chest with a space of about 2 to 3 fingers between the tape measure and the chest)

Shirt neck size (with 1 finger between the neck and measuring tape)

Shoulder to shoulder (arms straight down and from the broadest parts of the shoulders, which should be across the shoulder blades just below the neck)

Neck to shoulder (measure from base of the neck to the end of the shoulder, right where the arm meets the shoulder. Measure both sides as they may be different)

Shoulder to sleeve (from the point where the shoulder meets the arm down to where you want the sleeve to end. I suggest going down to the knuckle of the thumb. This will allow for the “bunching-up” that happened at the elbows. It will also prevent the jacket from riding up too high when you bend you arms or when you wear thick clothes in the winter. Also, don’t straighten your arm, but rather let it hang natural with its natural bend. Again, measure both sides as they may be different)

Middle of the back to the sleeve (this is from the base of the neck, behind the back, to the point where you want your sleeve to end. Your arm should be straight out for this. Don’t be shocked if this measurement is smaller than the combined “neck to shoulder” and “shoulder to sleeve. Here again, I suggest measuring both sides as they may be different)

Back length (measure from the base of the neck to your tailbone. This is the correct way to measure your back)

Back at seem (this is the measurement from the base of the neck to your waist)

Waist at the belly (measure around the widest part of the belly)

Waist size actual (should differ from your pants size)

Pants waist size (should differ from your actual size)

You also might want to measure from the base of your neck down the front to your waist. Some of use men here have complained that when we zip up the jacket the front rises up. Giving this measurement might eliminate the problem.

As to the measurements, your tailor took for your arms. I’ve noticed that each tailor has their own way of taking measurements. You tailor probably took the “middle of the back to the sleeve” measurement or measured from the base of the neck to the end of the arm, with the arm straight out. This is how most tailors measure, and while there is absolutely nothing wrong with that, I personally don’t like it. I find I get a les comfortable fit this way and the sleeves tend to ride up more.

You also might want to send a picture (front, sides, and back) that way Peter can get a better idea of you body type.

I hope this helps

BTW – Take each measurement twice. There is an old saying “measure twice, cut once.”

BDJ

I'm also looking at buying a Wested for the first time. Thought I'd check the earlier posts before sending out a message of my own, and awfully glad I did!

Jock, you and I have a lot of the same concerns. I'm thinking of ordering the pre-distressed cowhide myself. I was pretty much thinking in that direction from the beginning. I like the broken-in look, and the durability.

Thank you BDJ for the tips on measurements!

Jock, thanks for being brave enough to step out there and ask the questions, and sorry to ride your coattails (jackettails?) on this one.

Isn't there some old saying about "one foot into the breach"?

Good luck to us both, and thanks again to all,
Mouse