Club Obi Wan

I've hemmed, I've hawed, I've filibustered, I've saved. I've waited for my fiancee to step up. I can wait no longer!

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The Jacket specs:

Height: 6'1"
Weight: 150 lbs
Chest: 38"
Sleeve: 25.75"
Jacket size: 42R
Style: Raiders
Leather: Authentic Goat
Lining: Cotton Body/Satin Sleeves
Hardware: Antique Brass
Side fastener: Black slider

Special Requests:
American zipper (pull on right side), extending almost to bottom of hem. Hidden press studs on storm flap. Gussets under arms. Back panel to shoulder seam.
Pockets: 7.5"W by 6.5"T
Left Pocket: 2" above hem, 1" from storm flap
Right Pocket: 2" above hem, 1.5" from zipper

A size 42R fits well with sweater room. I am concerned about sleeve length (riding up), hence the longer sleeve dimension.
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I am confident that even ordering an off-the-rack 42R would fit really well, so I am comfortable with providing only these adjustments. (All of my other jackets have been 42.) I really liked the look of the Chris King pockets, so you will recognize I used those specifications.

I am still agonizing a bit about the choice of leather. I was really looking forward to the nice drape and softness of lamb or lambtouch, but in reality I think I will be harder on my jacket than that, and I'm better off going with goat, so I don't have to worry about it. And that way, it can be a true adventure jacket, as it really should be. Decisions, decisions. (Our motto, isn't it?)

It's so great that we have these choices, though!

Any thoughts? (Giving myself a week's "waiting period" before placing the order, to make sure I really want to do this now. as opposed to waiting for what new developments might come from the QM summit.)

Cordially,
Lord Clarence

Unless you have extraordinarily long arms, the regular length will be right on. I just received mine today - 42 Reg - and am quite pleased with the sleeve length. I am also 6'-1".

I got the goat. Too skittish about the lamb tearing.

Don't forget that Peter is now using the new, slimmer patterns which to me wouldn't fit a sweater comfortably. Especially if you're talking about really cold weather (thicker sweater). You are also 3 inches taller than me. My last 2 Westeds were in the new pattern and they fit tight to me. Something to ask about, perhaps?

When did he start using slimmer patterns as a standard? Did they post it on their site. That'd definitely be a good thing for previous Wested owners to know, especially in terms of recommending sizes and for purchasing a new Wested.

Slimmer patterns, eh? I am actually pleased to hear that. I'm a skinny guy, but I wasn't sure if/how I wanted to go about requesting the old slim cut that Chris King specified. But if Peter is using them now as a rule, I trust him to know how to fit them properly to the various sizes. When I say 42R gives me sweater room, it is ample. I am comfortable with ordering a slimmer pattern 42.

Cabinetman, noted and thanks. I don't think I have particularly long arms, but some people advocate ordering the sleeves long to counteract the bunching and riding up that occurs after a time. Maybe Peter is now taking this into account. I will be specific in my note to him, and let him adjust as he will.

Cordially,
Lord Clarence

Maybe I should have been clearer. I guess it's something you would want to look into since I am not 100% certain that Wested is using this pattern for every jacket. I'm not sure what you'd get if you didn't ask specifically. I would think the original patterns should be standard anyways. I remember in one of Chris King's posts describing the newer patterns saying that there is litttle room for more than a dress shirt in the arms. He's right about that and that's how it should be.

Sorry, didn't mean to give any false info. I guess I did too much assuming. Assuming everyone else is thinking like me.

agent5 wrote:I would think the original patterns should be standard anyways. I remember in one of Chris King's posts describing the newer patterns saying that there is litttle room for more than a dress shirt in the arms.

I believe Chris King ordered the "old" 80's pattern, which is slimmer. And yes, it is slimmer---little room for more than a dress shirt so if you plan to wear a sweater during cool weather, you may want to consider staying with the current pattern. Just my .02 centavos.

Chris's Raiders is the example shown on Wested's site as the, presumed, standard Raiders jacket. When I ordered mine, I told Peter I "didn't have any special requests. The Chris King example standard [was] going to be great." I would say the current fit is the slimmer, standard fit. But I wouldn't know any different as this is my first.

So, with regards to bunching/shortening of the sleeves, is there actually a little shrinking that occurs? Is this a "natural phenomenon" of leather? I've not experienceed it in other leather jackets I have, but they are also cowhide and insulated.

Cabinetman wrote:So, with regards to bunching/shortening of the sleeves, is there actually a little shrinking that occurs? Is this a "natural phenomenon" of leather? I've not experienceed it in other leather jackets I have, but they are also cowhide and insulated.

Cabinetman,

I don't think there's any shrinkage, the loss in length is caused by the material that bunches at the elbows. When the folds become more permnanent, there is some loss of length.

Mike

Thanks, Mike. Looks like I am safe there - the sleeves have a little length to spare. But just a little.

If you plan on being tough on your jacket -- like a true adventurer -- I personally would go with the goatskin. I found my westie goat (not authentic) to be pretty supple, especially after Pecardizing and wear.


If you've a long torso, I'd consider the tall or long.

Cheers,

Harry

Even Peter suggests the extra sleeve length to allow for the 'riding up with wear' syndrone everyone experiences over time. Regards. Michaelson

This is strange. I have never experienced this. Does it happen to some and not to others. I have some Wested's approaching 2 years with no shrinkage on the sleeves. Not even close.

-S

Peter told me once he automatically factors in this extra length, unless told differently in specifications by the purchaser. I've experienced the 'ride up' with absolutely every jacket, regardless of manufacturer, I've ever owned to date, including A-2's. Regards. Michaelson
p.s. Of course, if you don't bend your arms much, you don't have to worry about this.

When I ordered my Wested, I gave Peter my waist. I have broad shoulders but a much smaller waist by proportion. Consequently, I usually get jackets that fit the shoulders but have a ton of excess room and fabric around my middle and waist. Anyway, when I tried my Wested on it fit perfectly. Perfect through the shoulders but without the excess room in the middle. It has a slight taper which looks natural. I don't know if Peter tapered it due to my waist size or this is current pattern, but it was nice anyway.

Michaelson wrote:p.s. Of course, if you don't bend your arms much, you don't have to worry about this.

Of course that's it. When I drive my car, I pull the seat all the way back so as to not bend my arms. That little subliminal suggestion about the leather bunching up has slowly changed my habits. Right now as I am typing, a perfect 34 inches away from my keyboard, I am having problems reading the monitorrsssiffffffffoasasdjkfd... )

-S

Hummm. I'm not EVEN going to ask how you light your cigars anymore. (grins) Regards. Michaelson

When I ordered my Wested, I gave Peter my waist. I have broad shoulders but a much smaller waist by proportion. Consequently, I usually get jackets that fit the shoulders but have a ton of excess room and fabric around my middle and waist. Anyway, when I tried my Wested on it fit perfectly. Perfect through the shoulders but without the excess room in the middle. It has a slight taper which looks natural. I don't know if Peter tapered it due to my waist size or this is current pattern, but it was nice anyway.

I asked for this taper and gave my waist size as well. Prior to that, the jacket I had ordered was swimming on me. I also had issues with the sleeve circumference which was 13" - way too big for my bony wrists, I guess. I asked for (and received) 11 1/2" sleeves. They are perfect.

The best jacket I have owned in 20 years : )

Just when you think you have read everything and know everything, some thing new pops up! That's the great thing about this hobby.

I am now certainly satisfied that in the mere mention of concern about sleeves bunching up, Peter will know what I'm talking about, and compensate accordingly. The question of sweater room remains. I have a question submitted to Peter as to whether the '80s "Chris King" pattern is now standard on Indy jackets. When I think about it, it's a jacket, not a coat, so perhaps sweater room is not that critical. What's more important to me is that it looks like what it's supposed to: Indy's jacket. (What I liked so much about CK's.) Somehow HF got away with a cardigan in "Mystery of the Blues", but it did look a bit overstuffed and not quite right to me. Most of the time, I won't really want a sweater anyway.

My current substitute is more like a heavier bomber jacket, which indeed is bulky, designed for warmth (at hight altitude). So I'm used to wearing sweaters with it. One could think of the Indy jacket not as a substitute but as a supplement, for the (frequent) days when the bomber is too much.

Taper: noted. Bony wrists, which I have: noted. All good points!

Thanks for your patience with my in-thread rationalizations!

Cordially,
Lord Clarence

Just remember Lord Clarence, "you just can't have one!". It's a slippery slope that a lot of us, once we have stepped on it, have slipped all the way down right into the 12 step programs we are always talking about. )

-S

Sergei wrote:Just remember Lord Clarence, "you just can't have one!".

Of course I can! I can quit anytime. I... um... just need the fedora next, and then I'm done. Well, maybe just the Aldens, also. Better add an issued MK VII with Lee's strap. And... oh.

Cordially,
Lord Clarence

Lord_Clarence wrote: Of course I can! I can quit anytime. I... um... just need the fedora next, and then I'm done. Well, maybe just the Aldens, also. Better add an issued MK VII with Lee's strap. And... oh.

That's what I though a few months ago. Now whenever my wife asks, "How much more stuff do you need?" I'm reminded of a song . . . "We've only just begun . . ."

Sergei wrote:Just remember Lord Clarence, "you just can't have one!". It's a slippery slope that a lot of us, once we have stepped on it, have slipped all the way down right into the 12 step programs we are always talking about. )

-S

ohhhhhhh......

Believe me, I second this, and will take it one step further. Not only will it NEVER end it will expand to:

The A2 flight jacket

G1 flight jacket

and so on and so on and so on.

BWAHAHHAHAHAHA

Now comes the wait before the wait. I'm going out of town for the weekend, and will be out of Internet range starting tomorrow morning... which means I can't pore obsessively over COW, looking for those last minute perfect details, or check the inbox for a response from Peter. I will order next week , after I come back, and have hopefully all the feedback I can stand.

'til then, cordially,
Lord Clarence

Ok, ok... had to check in one last time.

The answer from Peter, FYI, is NO, he does not use the slimmer '80s pattern unless specifically requested. There we go.

Cordially,
Lord Clarence

Lord_Clarence wrote:The answer from Peter, FYI, is NO, he does not use the slimmer '80s pattern unless specifically requested.

When I ordered my authentic-colored goatskin a couple of months ago I specifically requested the slimmer pattern and told Peter my waist size f 35 in hopes of getting a tapered jacket to eliminate bulk.

Compared to other Westeds I had seen and tried on at Indydawg's, I still had some extra room in the authentic goat's body area but the arm holes and sleeves were definitely smaller. The extra material in the body didn't bother me that much although, in my mind's eye, I had expected it to be trimmer in that area.

So, if you want your Wested slimmer, order the 80s pattern and state your waist size.

Cheers,

I.J.

I have the physique of Atlas, and may I say the jacket fits me perfectly!

No, no, just average build. But it does fit well. I wish that when we received our jackets, there would be some real way of knowing what was done and if it was based on our specifications. Like a spec sheet included showing what we asked for and what was done. Again, though, I didn't ask for any modifications. I took note of the fit around the waist while wearing it yesterday, remembering these posts. It seems like there is just enough material everywhere. I haven't adjusted the straps. It is broad enough through the shoulders and chest, and trim enough around the waist.

Back to the special requests and not knowing if it was done or not. Here is what I put on the order: "No special requests. Your Chris King example standard is going to be great." This, since Chris's jacket is that used for the Raiders jacket pic on Wested's site. I had read that Chris's specs were right on, so I didn't feel I needed to try and come up with my own. Being new to all of this, it started to get confusing trying hash it all out myself.

So, if Chris's was cut from a slimmer pattern, and mine was cut and built based on Chris King specifications, I guess I did get a slimmer cut.

I think I have repeated myself here. Sorry. I don't mean to beat a dead horse...uh, goat?

Cabinetman wrote:... there would be some real way of knowing what was done and if it was based on our specifications. Like a spec sheet included showing what we asked for and what was done.

That's what I did when I placed my 2 jacket orders over to Peter. I created a document that had all my measurements and mods. I had a check box right next to each line item. So I called and placed the order from the spec sheet and then I immediatly followed up the conversation with a FAX that had the spec sheet. I called about 1/2 way through the jacket order and followed up again with the request's on the spec sheet.

That is the way I would do it. Leave no detail in doubt and follow up. When placing an order overseas for a custom made jacket, I at all costs wanted to avoid sending parcels back and forth.

Just my .02....

-Sergei