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About to order a Wested custom LC... need some help

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:11 pm
by Aggie
I'm about to take the plunge and order my first Indy-style leather jacket.

I think I am going to go with the washed goat in LC style. I considered the Novapelle but from reading on here I think it will take longer to make. Speaking of which, what is the normal wait time for a custom jacket (besides Novapelle)? I even considered the horsehide for it's durability but it might be too heavy and not drape enough.

I'm ordering a 44 regular. I am going to take my tape measure to a local store tomorrow to look at some leather jackets and take measurements in the dressing room of the ones that fit me. I am using Peter's pattern measurements as a reference.

Here are some special requests I have come up with to make the LC jacket as SA as possible:

Rounded tip collar
Smaller pockets that are placed higher (bottom of pockets about three inches from the bottom of jacket) with a big scalloped pocketflap
Small rectangular side strap boxes
No facings
No gussets
D-rings
No shoulder pads
Single stitch shoulder seam
V tapered backpanel
Reinforced stitching everywhere
Omit the hem stitch
Satin lining

I'm hoping that these won't be too much of a headache for Peter. Now should I order the X-box stitching? Also, on the pockets, do I need to quantify the size for Peter? I am thinking that they just need to be an inch shorter than the special offer LC jacket and start about three inches from the bottom of the jacket.

Does the LC jacket really take reinforced stitching everywhere?

Thanks!

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:13 pm
by Aggie
And another thing, is it just me or does the pockets on his ToD custom jacket look pretty SA? What's the story on that? His ToD jacket looks somewhat SA.

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:16 pm
by Holt
if you want a tough leather with pretty much the correct drape then I would go for the horse.


the specs looks good.I dont think you should ad more to the order.if you do, they might forget to add something important.


this should make a decent LC jacket.

I have a 44 and my pockets are 6.5 x 7.5

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:17 pm
by Holt
Aggie wrote:And another thing, is it just me or does the pockets on his ToD custom jacket look pretty SA? What's the story on that? His ToD jacket looks somewhat SA.

were have you been?

Peter had the orignal TofD jacket in his shop a couple months ago to copy the exact pattern.

so yes the pockets are pretty SA :lol:

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:45 pm
by CM
Yeah, Aggie, what's the matter with ya!!!

:roll: ;-) Just joking.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 12:18 am
by Aggie
Been busy with school, haha. I guess I missed that thread. Maybe I should stick around on here more often.

I did see your HH LC jacket, Holt. I really appreciate the pocket measurements, that's exactly what I was looking for. The HH drapes the right way? Really? I figured it wouldn't drape enough. How does it drape differently than the washed goat?

Also, would a HH jacket take longer for Peter to make than the washed goat? Is the 6.5 x 7.5 height times width? I might just tell Peter to use the ToD pockets.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:00 am
by crismans
Aggie wrote: Also, would a HH jacket take longer for Peter to make than the washed goat? Is the 6.5 x 7.5 height times width? I might just tell Peter to use the ToD pockets.
I got my HH Raiders in about a month so it wasn't that bad a wait at all.

And, although I'm sure you know this, if I wanted an LC-SA jacket (how many initials can I cram into one post?) I would go with Holt's pocket specs. The LC pockets were bigger to accomodate the Grail diary.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:13 am
by Aggie
Holt's pocket specs it is. What about the x-box stitching and the reinforced stitching?

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:11 am
by Holt
the LC jacket appears like a thicker hide on film.like cowhide.now the original maker(Peter) says they all were lamb.but I could believe that they were made out of cowhide.so the HH gives the right drape for the last crusade inmy opionion.if you want an even more drapy hide,which is totally fine of course for a LC jacket.cuz in some scenes it look s very thin.(Beach)


If you want 100% SA straps anchoring? then I would have pipin anchoring on the straps.

that is unbelieveable undurable.so go with best of both worlds if you want somewhat SA. a small narrow empty box on the straps.

the xbox was not on the LC jackets.well at least not those who made it on screen.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:20 am
by Indiana Strones
Indiana Holt wrote:.but I could believe that they were made out of cowhide.
Or of a thicker lambskin? Is this possible? I'm not a leather expert. :-k

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:22 am
by Holt
yes very possible. Im no expert myself.


but I think the way to capture the spirit of LC is to go with a thicker hide.but just personal opinions here..

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 7:25 am
by Kt Templar
I feel that copper novapelle which is a thinish cowhide would make a good LC.

I suggest you get a sample of that leather before proceeding though!

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 2:54 pm
by Aggie
So do I just include pipin anchoring on the straps in addition to the small rectangular side strap boxes?

Also, are the really any differences between Peter's ToD pockets and the LC pockets?

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 3:29 pm
by Holt
Aggie wrote:
Also, are the really any differences between Peter's ToD pockets and the LC pockets?

yes.there is a HUGE difference

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 3:44 pm
by Aggie
How so? Is the LC an inch longer? I mean, can the ToD pattern be used, just with longer dimensions?

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 3:55 pm
by Indiana G
TOD pockets are itty-bitty. good luck getting your hands into them...but that's what they were on the original.

LC pockets are larger and more 'squarish' than raiders imo.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 4:13 pm
by crismans
The Temple jacket pockets are quite small (smallest of the series, if I'm not mistaken):



Image

While the LC pockets were made bigger to accomodate holding the Grail diary (not the best pictures but should serve the purpose of illustration):


Image

Image

I'm not always a huge stickler on details, but , imo, the pockets are one of the more noticeable features of the LC jacket (along with the collar and snaps on the storm flaps), so if you're wanting a close LC, you need to get those pockets right. ;-)

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 8:43 pm
by coronado3
I'd go about 2 1/4 inches from the bottom for the pockets... I think 3" will put your flaps up on your chest.

6 3/4" Wide by 7 1/2 " tall with the flap middle about 3.5" should be about right for a LC pocket. Use PLATON's diagram and insert your own dimensions and send that to peter.

Also, my vote would be for Goat or cowhide.

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:13 pm
by Aggie
Cool, does anyone have Platon's pocket diagram for a LC jacket? I found his ToD and one of his Raiders diagrams.

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 12:29 am
by Holt
look man.

I just gave you my personal specs for making SA pockets.why not use them?its for a 44.

do you see what I mean about the draping.the Horse drapes almost exact like the LC jacket does.you can see this in the picture below.


also I would choose away the piping on the straps.NOT durable.will tear easy.go with small boxes.or the X.

see how extremely close I had wested make the LC jacket for me.to me it looks like an undistressed filmjacket.

G. I know your looking..what do you think about this? does this qualify for the stitch nut club like we are thinking about starting? :lol:
Image

I could nominate this to be the most SA LC made out of wested since the film.they did a incredible job on it.and no this is not a cuostume piece for those who think that..its build like a tank.take my word for it..

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:00 am
by Aggie
look man.

I just gave you my personal specs for making SA pockets.why not use them?its for a 44.
I am going to use them but I also want to look at Platon's specs (if he has any) to see the rest of the measurements regarding the entire pocket area. If he already has specs for how far the pockets are from the stormflaps, how large the pocket scallops are, etc., I might like to use those. All I've got so far on here is the height times width and how far from the bottom, which is still very helpful, don't get me wrong.

I'm probably going to take your specs and plant them on a blank version of his diagram.

I think your jacket has convinced me to go with the horsehide.

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 1:03 am
by Holt
good choise for that style.

at first it feels kinda thick and a tad stiff.but just wait until it breaks in.it becomes buttery soft.take my word for it. :)

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 3:08 am
by Aggie
Thank you for the help. Now I just wonder what the wait time will be.

What exactly is the piping on the straps? Looked for some threads on here for it but couldn't find much.

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:11 pm
by RCSignals
Wested made the original LC jackets. Why are people having to ask for detail changes? I thought for this jacket they still have the pattern.

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:16 pm
by Holt
RCSignals wrote:Wested made the original LC jackets. Why are people having to ask for detail changes? I thought for this jacket they still have the pattern.
:rolling:


yeah wested made the original raiders too.they should have that pattern to dont you think?

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:20 pm
by RCSignals
Indiana Holt wrote:
RCSignals wrote:Wested made the original LC jackets. Why are people having to ask for detail changes? I thought for this jacket they still have the pattern.
:rolling:


yeah wested made the original raiders too.they should have that pattern to dont you think?
The Raiders pattern I know they don't. I was under the impression they have the LC pattern still. Is this just a case of the original LC pattern not matching what people see on screen again?

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:27 pm
by Holt
you should see the ''old'' wested LC jackets.

they were nothing like what you saw on screen.


today if you go with my soecs for the LC you get about 90% of what you see on screen.

I am still working on the missing 10%

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:39 pm
by Holt
look.

old LC from 2003 with the wrong:
pockets.
pocket placement.
pocket flaps.
collar.
collarstand.
stormflap.
yoke.
bakpanel with big gap on the sides.
straps.
no Drings.
sleeves.
hem stitch.
no press studs.
lining.


Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


my LC jacket,see the difference from the old pattern
Image

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:43 pm
by RCSignals
wow I see what you mean. :shock:

so when ordering it's best to specify 'Holt specs'

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 7:49 pm
by Holt
you can try..but to be on the safe side.copy/paste the order you see here on the board and send them to wested.

allthough if not asking for ''Holt specs'' or whatever people do now,you still get a ''SA'' jacket..much more then you did from 2003..they have come a long way...but if you are into the whole stitch SA thingi like I am..then the ''standard pattern'' wested uses today isnt good enough..no matther how nice the jacket ..cuz its really nice..

the LC pattern has the same story as the raiders pattern: Lost

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:34 pm
by Aggie
The Raiders pattern I know they don't. I was under the impression they have the LC pattern still. Is this just a case of the original LC pattern not matching what people see on screen again?
I'm under the assumption that like the Raiders jackets, the LC jackets were made in a hurry to meet scheduling deadlines so I don't think Wested spent a lot of time designing it or thought to really save the design afterwards.

Weren't there even differences between the stormflaps for several of the Raiders jackets in the film?

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 10:59 pm
by RCSignals
Aggie wrote:
Weren't there even differences between the stormflaps for several of the Raiders jackets in the film?
for Raiders I think that's true. not sure about LC

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 11:25 pm
by ANZAC_1915
Any pictures of washed goat? (note _'s hints from talking to HF that he thinks LC jackets were goat, I think)

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 11:26 pm
by Holt
which thread are you in now?...washed goat?

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 11:29 pm
by ANZAC_1915
Indiana Holt wrote:which thread are you in now?...washed goat?
see 2nd line of original post, original poster says "washed goat" then there is some discussion of horse hide. I'd like to see pictures of washed goat LC style jacket.

Thanks.

Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 11:29 pm
by RCSignals
ANZAC_1915 wrote:Any pictures of washed goat? (note _'s hints from talking to HF that he thinks LC jackets were goat, I think)
I thought he said Cow hide?

From here? http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?t=35794

_ wrote:Disclaimer - a bottle of Jack Daniels Single Barrel was cracked and consumed during an evening where this information was provided. Three guys over at least as many hours and some greasy bar-food to help soak-up the alcohol. I've had Old No. 7 and Gentleman Jack before, but this single barrel is something special...

Anyway...

Ford wore either an “off the rack” jacket during Temple or he borrowed Vic’s. He wouldn’t wear the jackets with the altered linings – they pinched. I quote, “Whoever thought up that one was a real ####### genius…”

Ford wore a lot of different jackets in Raiders - too many to keep track of. During the Ellstree shoots, he swapped back and forth with Martin. In Africa he swapped back and forth with the stunt guys and wardrobe. He confirmed there was [at least] one jacket with a satin lining, and he knew he was wearing it during the fight with the mechanic [flying wing]. He had only one jacket he wore in Hawaii. The jackets were always ripping or the zippers were breaking. The wardrobe people were just trying to keep them together.

His Last Crusade jacket has held-up well. He has his CS jacket. They feel like they are the same weight. I'm gonna stick my neck out and say the LC jacket is cowhide.

He remembers his Flight Suits jacket, but does not know where it is or what happened to it.

Nothing else that I can recall was worth reporting. The majority of the time was dedicated to stuff that - well - is nobody's business. I mean that in the nicest way. :)

Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 12:30 am
by ANZAC_1915
RCSignals wrote:
ANZAC_1915 wrote:Any pictures of washed goat? (note _'s hints from talking to HF that he thinks LC jackets were goat, I think)
I thought he said Cow hide?

From here? http://indygear.com/cow/viewtopic.php?t=35794
My mistake. I thought he said goat in there somewhere.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:15 pm
by Texan Scott
The new authentic brown lamb jackets are thick leather. Since the Raiders jacket was lamb, the ToD jacket was lamb, and Peter produced the LC jacket, I wouldn't be surprised if it was lamb also?

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:22 pm
by Kt Templar
Tex, I really wouldn't classify the Authentic lamb as thick!

Thick compared to Todds maybe, but not thick really! All the other leathers that use are thicker except perhaps the lambtouch cow and the washed lamb.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:26 pm
by Texan Scott
I suppose it is relative. What I meant is that this new authentic brown is thick for a Raiders jacket, and one of the thicker ones I own. Great leather though.

KT, have you ever asked Peter what leather he used to make the LC jackets for the movie?

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:38 pm
by Texan Scott
crismans wrote:
Image

Image

...these distressed jackets look very similiar, ie color, texture & appearance. This sort of leads me to the supposition that the LC jacket could be lamb? Originally, I had thought that the ToD jacket was cow, due to its appearance on film, but with the close-up photos you provided, there is little doubt that the ToD jacket was lamb.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:54 pm
by CM
They all look like lamb to me - just different grades thereof.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:58 pm
by Kt Templar
Texan Scott wrote:I suppose it is relative. What I meant is that this new authentic brown is thick for a Raiders jacket, and one of the thicker ones I own. Great leather though.

KT, have you ever asked Peter what leather he used to make the LC jackets for the movie?
As far as I know, he's always maintained that this jacket were lamb.