Club Obi Wan

I was looking at and doing comparative distance increments for the pockets in the Raiders jacket and I decided I would change up their placement slightly accordingly (other post shows what I mean)- and I'm pretty confident that the measurements are pretty dead on given a 1.5" distance from the bottom of the jacket. So, here's what I'm sending into Westing:

-PATTERN 919
-YOKE SEAM: Please place the arm seam 1" BELOW the yoke seam
-Cotton Silesia lining (body and sleeves)
-NO leather facing on the zipper
-Side vent: NO stitch holding the side vent closed

PLEAT Depth: 1.25 inches (3.2cm).
-Back panel- The back panel should extend all the way out to the sleeve seam.

-ZIPPER: If possible, I would like to send a 5 gauge Aluminum zipper (small zipper pull that extends all the way to the end of the jacket)
-COLLAR: 2.75 inches (7cm)on the tips, tapering down to 2.5 inches (6.4cm). The left collar should also extend to the midway point of the top of the storm flap, or .75 inches (1.9cm) from the edge of the flap
.
-SIDE STRAP: Length : 8.75 inches (22.3cm)
Width : 1 inch (2.5cm)
Side straps sewn with X pattern AND box pattern, double stitched.

-STORM FLAP: 1.5", rounded corner
-1 piece small underarm Gussets

Pockets:
-BOTH pockets 1.5" (3.8 cm) from bottom of jacket
-RIGHT pocket 2" (5.1 cm) from zipper seam (edge of jacket)
-LEFT pocket 1.5" (3.8 cm) from storm flap
- pockets 7.5" (19.1 cm) high(long), 6.25" (16 cm) wide
-scalloped pocket flaps
-Pocket flap length in middle of flap, 2.75" (7cm)
-Inside pocket- Left side, slit (less leather) pocket.

Other than the r/l pocket measurements vs the bottom/zipper, using pretty much what I found here.

Any further suggestions? I feel like I may be forgetting something here...
little worried about the length/sleeve length, and if I can get them to taper it (any suggestions I should make regarding tapering towards the waist so it doesn't look like I'm wearing a shopping bag?) and I'm thinking 26" sleeve length (being over 6")

of course authentic brown lambskin.

One more thing I was wondering, on the order form when given the 'extra pocket inside' option, are they referring to the slit pocket on the left side I'd be adding, or is that in addition TO that?

I don't know if that 1 inside pocket comes standard or not.

Thanks and here's hoping! (p.s anyone know where I can pick up a 5 gauge aluminum zipper I can send them?)

Where did you get yout specs, if I may ask?

A combination of Agent5's and taking the 1.5" measurement from the bottom of the jacket to the pockets and comparing it to the length of the pocket and the distance from the zipper.

I'm worried about the sizing still... they ask your chest measurement and then ask jacket size- how do they differ? I'm so under-educated on jackets! Would a 42 or 44 chest mean the jacket should be 42 or 44 or should you add a few inches so the jacket isn't EXACTLY the size of your chest? bah!

Does anyone know Ford's back length/arm length, out of curiosity? I'm afraid of the back looking too long on a 6'1/6'2" frame. My little fall jacket I have has a 28" back and it feels like that'd be a little long for a raiders cut.

I believe you are mistaked about the distance of pockets from the bottom.
I hope you will not be disappointed when you receive your jacket.

I don't know if that 1 inside pocket comes standard or not.

Yes.

I'm just going by what I see here- if you presume the distance to be 1.5" from the bottom of the jacket to the pocket, and having exactly measured the increments (the pocket's length is equiv. to roughly 5 of the 1.5" units of measurement as you can see, the 1.75" notation is just an example to show that if it were more than that the pocket by process of multiplication would be well over 8", and 7.5" given a unit of 1.5"). Go ahead, enlarge it for yourself and measure out on a que card the distance to the pocket, then count how many of those will fit onto the pocket's length.

I hope it won't result in something that looks WILDLY off, if I am wrong, though! I hope it at least would still look like an Indy jacket. Now, assuming it's 1.5" to the pocket, looking at the distance from the pocket to the zipper, it does not appear to be the same- it definitely looks like more by about .5" imo. And when pressing the card up to the screen and comparing the mark I made for the 1.5", it IS a greater distance- though this could be due to angle perhaps I don't know.

You think a .5" difference will really be noticeable at a glance?

scary stuff, first order.... especially when you're not exactly pulling in the big bucks hehe


*edit*



I measured the distance to the pocket again and the red rectangle leading from the zipper towards the pocket is the same size as the 1.5" from the pocket to the bottom- note that the RED rectangle, being 1.5", does NOT extend all the way to the pocket's side- there's a good .5" to .75" left to close that gap- so unless we're assuming the distance to the pocket is 2" from the bottom (by which measurement would make the pocket in comparison absurdly large if in proportion it is in this picture- like 10" high being 5x the difference between the pocket and the bottom), I'd say (for THIS scene, I know the jacket changes throughout the movies so there is no TRUE SA jacket for all the movie) it can't be much higher or lower a distance.

I know, I'm being a huge nazi about this, but I just thought it'd be interesting to compare and contrast!

Sorry the shop job on the picture is so cruddy looking, I only have the picture editor this pc came with so no pretty lines and numbers, just magnifying and drawing the next line as per the markings I measured.

I see your logic.

Just take a piece of paper and cut it

pockets 7.5" (19.1 cm) high(long), 6.25" (16 cm) wide

this size and if you think the result matches what you see on screen and you are happy with it, then go ahead with that.

Whenever I see these extremely detailed lists, I always wonder if most of it is just a confirmation of existing standard specifications, or special order specifications.

k I cut out the pockets per those specs I placed it on a jacket of mine (just a fall jacket made of, I don't know, cotton or something, not too big on me or anything) 2" from the zipper- 7.5" long by 6.25 wide as the measuring tape shows

MOD EDIT:OVERSIZED PICTURES

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g182/ ... a48u86.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g182/ ... 4tpox2.jpg

I don't know, looks all right to me (of course it sticks out like a sore thumb being white on a dark grey jacket). This isn't the *exact* cut of a Raiders jacket obviously, but I think relative to the jacket it looks right (the pocket flap I just drew in after measuring 2.75" from the top for the flap's bottom, so it's a little funny looking). I know it still does look a little big, but wont that include the outer stitching of the pocket? if so I don't think it'll look so bad, leather-on-leather, on the jacket it's self. Again the Raiders jacket will differ in size a little bit (I'm still not sure what length to order for SA sake, but this jacket goes to about the top of my back pockets when I wear it). sleeves definitely need a little more length to em though!

Just for your consideration! I'm open to suggestions, this is just going by what I see in the screens I posted above given a 1.5" measurement from that particular scene in the movie!

*should also be noted that I put the pocket on the wrong side for this measurement- this one was supposed to be on the right side!

*ok this bugs me
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i8/w_ ... pocket.jpg

notice how the LEFT pocket in this shot seems to be much smaller in proportion to the 1.5" distance between the bottom and pocket! if you take out a measurement on that distance and apply it to the pocket (I invite any of you to with photo shop), the pocket is far smaller than 7.5"! And yet the above shot of the right pocket it'd be right on for the 7.5" measurement in comparison.

grr...why couldn't they have just used exact clones for every scene for the jacket and made it simple for us? [/code]

The pocket in that last picture is as good as identical to PLATON's pocket position and measurements.

If you enlarge the picture and measure it, you will see that it matches PLATON's measurements.

yeah seems much closer to that than the right pocket one-smaller, too

now I'm torn what to go for grr it seems there are not only varying pocket placements but SIZES throughout the film...

has anyone tried this: r. pocket: 2" from zipper, 1.5" from bottom
l. pocket: 1" from storm flap, 1.5" from bottom?
I'd like to see how that looks.

I know it sounds seriously skewed but from what I can tell (and I'm positive on my measurement) at least one jacket has the right pocket 2" from the zipper and all the lefts seem to be 1" from the storm flap! so confused...

on another note, how does this look for an aluminum zipper pull to send them? it looks to me similar to the shape in one of the screen caps (far as I can tell, it's awfully blurry).


http://www.ykkfastening.com/global/search/index.html

Could it be two different jackets in those screen shots, that have slightly different pockets and pocket placement?

Indeed I suspect they are- I only wish the natural inclination to think that because they are both from screen caps from the same general leg of the film they must have been filmed subsequently, vis a vis, using the same jacket- were correct- it'd be much easier if they were both from the same jacket- but again, given the scale of the pocket on the left, unless it's noticeably scaled down vs. the right, it must be a different jacket with smaller pockets than what was used just a scene or two before it. That leaves me with one option really-

make my judgment under the presumption that the left pocket, which I cannot seem to make out in the same scene as the right cap was taken from...contingently adheres to the same proportions (7.5x6.25) as the right example and take an educated guess as to the position relative to the storm flap. From what I've seen the left pocket almost invariably remains, throughout the bulk of the film, roughly 1" from the storm flap with some instances of variance.

While I'm certain that the distance from right->zipper is greater than 1.5" and no less than 2" by my best reckoning... I fear that the left being an inch closer is going to result in a skewed looking pocket placement. It's a shame I don't have a better photo-shop program or I'd create a digital representation of the jacket's final appearance with said measurements and gain a better opportunity to eyeball any possible resulting maladies in it's appearance.

**I initially increased the estimate from 1" on left to 1.5" in accordance to the placement I find to be most generally accepted as accurate- that is, since I'm sure that the pocket in the picture is 2" from the zipper, .5" more than what I usually find people use, I jumped to the conclusion that the left must be .5" from it's usual placement (as per one scene anyway)as well...but really, I have no visual evidence to back that up on the left pocket so it's all assumption! **

anywho... I'd appreciate a better idea on the zipper pull I should order (in aluminum)- in going for SA design!

So did you actually order this jacket or not? And if you did, did they acknowledge that they would make it and give you a price? The detail you're going into is excruciating.

it's not that much detail really, no more than a lot of people around here give... I simply want to get the pocket placements right for that scene. I haven't placed the order in finality yet, because I'm still trying to decide what zipper to send them for SA's sake and to get the left pocket right...

I'm also trying to decide on a proper length- I know that I have a 28" back that fits, but it may be too long for a Raider's. I don't know of any tailor around here, so I'm stuck measuring myself.

Man it'd be so simple if I'd decided on getting an AB hat first!

The GBP is way down against the dollar lately. An "Off the Peg" Wested is 145 GBP, while a custom "starts" at 165. 20 GPB now equals about 32 bucks US.

I wouldn't be surprised at all if Peter starts to take harder looks at custom pricing and whether or not he will even get into anything other than simple deviations from standard without substantial upcharges. He's a great guy, but he's also in business to make a profit.

I don't know how he can make and sell custom jackets for the price he does, but I wouldn't be surprised if custom features started costing a lot more with the current exchange rate being what it is. Business is business.

Road Warrior wrote:The GBP is way down against the dollar lately. An "Off the Peg" Wested is 145 GBP, while a custom "starts" at 165. 20 GPB now equals about 32 bucks US.

I wouldn't be surprised at all if Peter starts to take harder looks at custom pricing and whether or not he will even get into anything other than simple deviations from standard without substantial upcharges. He's a great guy, but he's also in business to make a profit.

I don't know how he can make and sell custom jackets for the price he does, but I wouldn't be surprised if custom features started costing a lot more with the current exchange rate being what it is. Business is business.

How does he lose profit if a US customer is paying in GBP? He'd be losing as much profit to any sale.

As a generalisation for any retailer in the UK, a high dollar vs pound can impact in a few ways.

1) It may actually help in some ways, US customers are getting more 'bang for their buck' so items are more affordable.

2) Unfortunately, for retailers/manufacturers, many materials are sourced from overseas. When this is the case the raw materials are often purchased in dollars, making them more expensive to buy. ie. the cost to the UK producer is greater. So, if the trend continues it may mean that the UK 'pound' price has to increase.

3) The euro is also particularly strong right now so even if materials are purchased in euros, then the bottom line cost to the UK retailer/manufacturer has increased.

For a little while, US products have seemed more affordable for us Brits especially when we were at 2 : 1. Now we are at more line 1.6 : 1 I think some of us we seriously reconsider our future US purchases.

Yes the manufacturers source of material, and method payment for it would be the main determining factor.
Other than that, a customer paying in GBP doesn't cause a loss in profit.

and here I thought the dollar would buy comparatively less....
shows what I know, I've only bought overseas from japan and hong kong!
incidentally, when the chinese say 'large' they apparently mean 'large chinese man -or rather slightly built american'.... my shirt is skin tight! and too short! next time, XL or XXL... hehe I'm glad they size us the same way here and in the UK though.

on a side note, almost an indy jacket on south park character creator- I made me!

Rom Hunter wrote:The pocket in that last picture is as good as identical to PLATON's pocket position and measurements.

If you enlarge the picture and measure it, you will see that it matches PLATON's measurements.

Here is my suggestion- take it for what it's worth...

I used Playton's pocket dimensions, and scaled up both length and width 5% as I wear a 42, not a 40 jacket. I left placement up to Peter, as he has a good eye for placing them so they look 'normal'; in other words, if you get perfect screen accuracy, the pockets MAY look weird in 'real life'.

If you don't care about that and just want a 100% costume piece, try Todd's (much cheaper too) if it fits you (does not fit me properly).

Finally, I would (and did) avoid the aluminum zipper. It is too fragile for real world use. Get nickel.

Personally, I'd go 1.5 inches for the action pleat depth as opposed to 1.25. Aside from that I really don't see how this can fail. All the best!

Indiana Whit wrote: One more thing I was wondering, on the order form when given the 'extra pocket inside' option, are they referring to the slit pocket on the left side I'd be adding, or is that in addition TO that?

I don't know if that 1 inside pocket comes standard or not.

It didn't look like anyone had answered this yet, so I will. The left inside pocket comes standard I believe. I ordered the extra pocket for my Raiders jacket and they placed a very nice deep slit pocket on the right side. It's almost too deep at 7-8 inches.

Indiana Whit wrote:Thanks and here's hoping! (p.s anyone know where I can pick up a 5 gauge aluminum zipper I can send them?)

I did a websearch for "5 gauge aluminum zipper" and found this link. I don't know anything about the company, it's just a random link that I found after searching for a minute. You might try a spelling variation for aluminum to aluminium, that's the British spelling of it.

http://www.stanssewingsupplies.com/cata ... prevnext=1