Club Obi Wan

I just got my Special Offer ROLA Goat jacket size 42 and the chest measures 46 inches.. everything else is what its suppose to be but the slimmer trimmer fit .. this is not! any suggestions anyone?

pics!

what do you get when you measure armpit to armpit?

Is yours off the rack? I can't speak for those, but I've recently received two brand new custom Raiders lambskin jackets from Wested and asked for 80s cut on both. The sleeves are clearly tapered and so is the body. It's definitely a slimmer fit.

Another thing to think about, I don't know if measuring pit to pit is accurate. You should measure where YOUR pits are, not the seam of the jacket under the arm where the body meets the sleeve. Maybe Holt can comment....

ok i wore it for about an hour so far and the sleeves are tapered but the chest measurement is 23 pit to pit.. the shoulders are also tighter fitting.. maybe im crazy..
besides that// this jacket is AWESOME! it has an awesome color and its medium weight.. not like the recent goats out there...i owned a goat from 2005 and this one is more like that then my last two goats from wested... this one feels bullit prooff..
..its an OTR Speciall offer ROLA soft goat size 42

pics will come soon.. gotta get my camera and lighting down so i can take good pics..

Holt, you gotta tell me what you think of the fit.. you're opinion is highly needed being you are the Jacket Guru! remember, i like the longer fit in length and a lil bit loose chest...im not a SA junky when it comes to fit.. i like my jackets loose but not HUGE or baggy!

pics soon.....

here are a few pic.. not great.. only have a camera phone.. the wife is sleepin so i gotta take better ones tomorrow...


http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... ure204.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... ure200.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... ure201.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... ure202.jpg

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... ure203.jpg

to give you the truth it looks like a great fit.a tiny hair to big now,but not by much.the raiders was not a skin thight fit,it was pretty loose.

It looks good on you.I say keep it and let it mold to you body.remember you can never tell if the jacket is a trim fitting one from the day you pull it out of the bag and slip it on.it will feel loose and boxy on the front.But the jacket WILL just look better and better by the weeks to come.that I will garantee you.


to give you an idea of what I am talking about.Take a look at this raiders lamb.you see how it looks pretty big and boxy in the front? well these pictures was taken a half hour after I got the jacket.



this is 6 months later.



congrats on this fine jacket.
Holt

indyrocks wrote:
Another thing to think about, I don't know if measuring pit to pit is accurate. You should measure where YOUR pits are, not the seam of the jacket under the arm where the body meets the sleeve. Maybe Holt can comment....

the jackets are made after standard millitary fit specs.so on a regular millitary fit it should have 4'' of wiggle room.example on a 44 regular should have a chest-pit to pit of 24'' that makes it a total of 48'' so if you have a 44 chest you willl have 4'' of space in the jacket.


a ''80's'' cut should be half that.2''

Holt

Awesome thank you Holt!
It is growing on me to tell you the truth.. the last jacket i had.. the washed goat raiders in size 42 ( 46 in chest also) felt so big on me and this one is starting to feel more fitted..
thanks Guru for the pics!
that jacket looks great and thank you again for the reassuring words!
;-)

my 80's cut measures from pit to pit and seam to seam, both measurements are 23 inches.. why is this?

you guys know that when measuring the pits I mean the seam that is in center of the arm pit.zip the jacket up and lay it flat n the floor.

Your advice is much appreciated Holt! You the man! i cant wait to take pics of it broken in!

Anytime man.....to speed break in the jacket.let it hit the showers until its wet.wrinch it up and let dry about 80 % then start wearing it.you will LOVE the result.

it wont hurt the jacket.water is a goatskins friend.trust me ;-)

kool! ;-)

Hey Holt,

While you are at it, is there any difference with a washed goat jacket? Can you speed up break in the same way as with a regular goat? Also, what about adding any treatment? I have already noticed that after a week of wear, the underside of the sleeves look to possibly be drying out?

Sorry for all the questions but any advice would be great!

Heyjude, that is a great looking jacket! I am in the same boat as you, not SA to a "t" but more for comfort and everyday use!

Adam

yes I am sure the water treatment will work on a washed goat.

if you feel that the jacet is drying out then use peards standard leather dressing on it.it will darken up the jacket a bit but be it becomes really soft afterwards.pluss this is also a ''break in'' method..it becomes really soft and pliable.

Now that we're on the subject, quick question. My Wested is circa April 1999. Based on the pic below, a few people have told me that it's an "80s" cut pattern. However, this jacket was made before the whole "pattern 919"/Chris King specs were pointed out to (and subsequently adopted by) Wested. So is this "80s pattern" a semi relative term?

I think that is a regular standard cut

Indiana Holt wrote:I think that is a regular standard cut

Yes, I agree. It looks a standard cut.

Lay your 1999 jacket down on your bed, zipped up, laying flat, with the chest
facing up.

Measure it from armpit to armpit, and then measure it
at the very bottom, across the bottom hem from side to side.

Are the two numbers the same? Or does the bottom measure smaller
than the armpit to armpit measurement?

The 80's cut has a taper from the chest down to the waist. A regular cut
will be the same measurement from the chest down to the waist give or
take a half inch or so.

Flathead

Indiana Holt wrote:Anytime man.....to speed break in the jacket.let it hit the showers until its wet.wrinch it up and let dry about 80 % then start wearing it.you will LOVE the result.

it wont hurt the jacket.water is a goatskins friend.trust me ;-)

I seem to remember reading somewhere that water can cause the leather to shrink if you dry it too fast. If this is true, can you shrink the body of the jacket as far as chest size?

I am sure you can but I think when you wetten certain areas on the jacket and speed dry to shrink it ill look weird in the end.


I would stay away from it.

FLATHEAD wrote:Lay your 1999 jacket down on your bed, zipped up, laying flat, with the chest
facing up.

Measure it from armpit to armpit, and then measure it
at the very bottom, across the bottom hem from side to side.

Are the two numbers the same? Or does the bottom measure smaller
than the armpit to armpit measurement?

The 80's cut has a taper from the chest down to the waist. A regular cut
will be the same measurement from the chest down to the waist give or
take a half inch or so.

Flathead

This is interesting. I ordered a custom Raiders in the 80s pattern. There is a size 44 tag in the collar. I don't know how to measure for sleeve taper. Aren't all sleeves tapered to some extant?

The armpit to armpit measurement is about 25 inches. The bottom hem measurement is about 21 inches. Obviously there is a taper here. But given the size 44 it seems that 25 inches across the front is a bit large. Doesn't that equate to 50 inches around, i.e. 6 inches additional instead of the more snug fitting 2 inches additional over the size 44?

The measurements were taken across the front, using the vertical side seams, with the jacket laying flat and zipped up.

This is really just academic for me because, although the jacket could be tapered a bit more (I wear the side straps tightened all the way), it really does fit me very well in the shoulders and chest.

Any comments?

first of all the straps were not placed there to make it fit.when you have them all the way thightend up,they will tear eventually.be carefull....

the 25'' across chest is really funny to hear from someone else because I had this on my previous size 44 jacket too.I thought it was a production misstake....a 44 should have 24'' across chest.making it 4'' extra above the original size.

this puzzles me very much

Indiana Holt wrote:what do you get when you measure armpit to armpit?

a smelly tape measure?

ahh geeez...com'On ..hehehe

I had good luck breaking in a Wested washed goat with just warm dryer and couple of clean Tennis shoes ...just be sure your dryer is across the house because of the noise...about an hour total checking a couple of times ...zip up first and snap storm flap...Hatch

Cammer wrote:
This is interesting. I ordered a custom Raiders in the 80s pattern. There is a size 44 tag in the collar. I don't know how to measure for sleeve taper. Aren't all sleeves tapered to some extant?

The armpit to armpit measurement is about 25 inches. The bottom hem measurement is about 21 inches. Obviously there is a taper here. But given the size 44 it seems that 25 inches across the front is a bit large. Doesn't that equate to 50 inches around, i.e. 6 inches additional instead of the more snug fitting 2 inches additional over the size 44?

The measurements were taken across the front, using the vertical side seams, with the jacket laying flat and zipped up.

This is really just academic for me because, although the jacket could be tapered a bit more (I wear the side straps tightened all the way), it really does fit me very well in the shoulders and chest.

Any comments?

Sounds like you got a mis-labled size 48 80's cut with a size 44 tag in it.

Since you said your jacket is a custom order, what size did you ask for?

Or did you just give Wested your measurements and let them make
the jacket for you?

On some custom jackets, if the measurements of the jacket vary alot
from what an OTR jacket are, then there isn't really a size they can give
it, as none of the measurements match the OTR sizes.

If this is the case, then Wested will make a jacket to your required
measurements, and then deside what size tag to put in it, even though
its not really any standard size at all.

Flathead

I had this on mine to FLATHEAD.

25'' across chest. that puzzled me very...


I ordered a 44 80's cut

The 80s fit is no myth. If you order 80s fit you will receive a tight fit jacket that is not SA.

The myth is that 80s fit is SA.

PLATON wrote:The 80s fit is no myth. If you order 80s fit you will receive a tight fit jacket that is not SA.

The myth is that 80s fit is SA.

I'm not sure, because Peter said 919/80s pattern was used:

PETER wrote:THe 919 pattern was a style similar but not the same as a James Dean jacket but that was the easiest way to describe it.
It was this pattern that was used as the body shape of the raiders jacket with pockets from the A2 and reconfiguration of action pleat to accomodate gun & whip. That is the pattern now recut on which the 80's cut is based.
Cheers
Peter

Hatch wrote:I had good luck breaking in a Wested washed goat with just warm dryer and couple of clean Tennis shoes ...just be sure your dryer is across the house because of the noise...about an hour total checking a couple of times ...zip up first and snap storm flap...Hatch

So you wet down the whole jacket then dried it in the dryer? I was going to suggest steaming the heck out of it for anybody with one of those portable steamers they were selling on TV a few years ago. Has anybody tried to distress one using the small 'exfoliating' poufs that people use on their skin? I bet one of those with some hot water, followed by some dryer time would be good - very even with no scratch marks. Oh, yeah, the temperature - I'm sure Hatch would agree to set the dryer temp LOW