Club Obi Wan

So today I received my brand new ROTLA custom from Wested, dark brown. I noticed some very interesting things when compared with my authentic brown which is about 2 months old.

On the new jacket I specified the zip all the way to the end, and shallow pleats. Both are 80s cut. The new one was about an inch shorter than my first. I did not specify the length on either, just asked for a 40L. I'm actually glad because now I have some variety. Another interesting fact is that on the new, more SA jacket, there is stitching on the top AND bottom of the collar stand. There is something that just "feels" more SA about my new one. I think it depends on who cuts the jacket over at Wested. It's not like any of my requests weren't upheld on either jacket, but this new one is just "it."

Now for the most interesting points. The new jacket is considerably lighter. The leather just feels different. Both have satin lining. Who knows what this is due to...I'm very happy with both and will wear them interchangeably no doubt.

Finally, the yoke on the new one is MUCH smaller, with the seam ABOVE the sleeve stitch as desired for Raiders. I did not specify this either but am definitely happy about it. Wested makes some nice jackets. Sure there are some variations when ordering a custom, but I can't complain. I tip my Fedora to you Peter! Here are some comparison pics of the yokes and collar stands.

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4850.jpg

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4852.jpg

I'll post some of it on me in a bit. Thoughts?

'Custom brown' what? I'm assuming lambskin?

Regards! Michaelson

As to the collar stand stitching, I have three Westeds hanging in my closet, and two have the "double" collar stitching while one does not. Maybe it also depends who stitches the jackets, too. ;-)

I think we need to see more pictures of the jacket before we can say whats SA and not.

the jacket looks good so far

If that's a satin lining then it already isn't SA....

Toldog07 wrote:If that's a satin lining then it already isn't SA....

I've seen pictures that look like the jacket has cotton lining, but also pictures where it looks like a satin lining. Maybe both types of lining were used?

Regards, Geert

I went for satin simply because I like how it feels. I agree with Geert, I've seen what looks like evidence of both satin and cotton. But I would say this jacket is 96% SA. Although I've noticed the debate on side strap direction. These are obviously facing towards the front so who really knows. It's got a SA "feel," at least to me. And that's what matters most!

Michaelson-They're both lamb! ( forgot to mention that detail)

What I find the most interesting is that I asked for 80s cuts on both but the yoke on the new one is noticeably smaller. More SA to my eyes.

Some more pics...

Please note the jacket looks even shorter because my jeans are sagging! (was not done on purpose!)

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4853.jpg

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4854.jpg

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4856.jpg

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4857.jpg

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq89 ... G_4858.jpg

The only other detail I defaulted to Peter on was pocket size. I didn't care much about that and didn't want to overwhelm him with specs since the other things were more important to me.

you have a nice jacket there, I like it alot and it looks really SA

yes,very nice!

Jacket looks great and know that is out of the way ;-) , Where did you get that awesome TESB shirt and how old is it?

Thanks guys!

(scot, the shirt is maybe a year old, it's junk food brand. check out their website they make a bunch of throw back SW shirts. urban outfitters carries them too)

Holt-do you know why the one yoke is much smaller? Does that depend on who is stitching also? Or maybe that's part of the true 80s pattern and was left out of my first jacket...

an IMHJ AND a new wested on the same day....lucky!!!!

the jacket looks great and the fit looks spot on. congrats.

The jacket looks great and, if it feels SA to you and you're happy with it, then that's the only thing that matters.

Looks like Wested has been nailing the storm flap collar connection lately!

Great jacket! This dark brown looks a little more "reddish" then others seen here at cow. May be it's a matter of light?

Indyrocks can you please post some outdoor comparison pics (auth. and dark)? Thanks in advance!

Really nice jacket, indyrocks! ;-)

Indiana Strones wrote:Indyrocks can you please some outdoor comparison pics (auth. and dark)? Thanks in advance!

I'm planning on it strones! It's been raining in Boston so as soon as I get a chance I will!

indyrocks wrote:
Holt-do you know why the one yoke is much smaller? Does that depend on who is stitching also? Or maybe that's part of the true 80s pattern and was left out of my first jacket...

the yolk on the original raiders looks even slightly higher then on your new jacket.

wested has only ONE cutter who makes ALL jackets.

if your older jacket is a standard then it has not the raised yolk.it only comes on the 80's
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g182/ ... pannel.jpg

Indiana Holt wrote:
wested has only ONE cutter who makes ALL jackets.

Actually not quite true. He has 2 cutters in the UK (at least) plus however many in the Indian operation.

wow.then Gemma really hasnt seen the second cutter around in their shop,has she?

she has ALLWAYS said to me they have ONLY one cutter

Nice pockets

Indiana Holt wrote:wow.then Gemma really hasnt seen the second cutter around in their shop,has she?

she has ALLWAYS said to me they have ONLY one cutter

Probably they are twin brothers.