Club Obi Wan

I've got two Flight Suits jackets (one of them an Expedition). They are great, but I do notice they both have that crinkly sounding interfacing in the collars and pocket flaps. I know there is a reason for this, but can someone tell me the purpose of interfacing in those places? Thanks...pwd

it's to help maintain the integrity of the collar and pocket flaps over several years of hard use.

But, that's just a guess.

Later!
Indydawg

why, to make that cool crinkly sound, of course.

Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Mike

Mike,

I just wanted to say that your avatar pic looks great. Nice work!

Let me give you an explanation for the reason of the interfacing. The purpose is to provide a little body and the main reason is to prevent the leather from stretching. Yes, leather stretches. So the interfacing applied in the middle of the leather, snaps it back to the original shape. Dave Marshall gave a demonstration of normal leather being stretched and over time it will thin out and become longer. And then he sandwiched the 2 pieces of leather with this interfacing material, and when the leather stretches out, it snaps back to the original position because of the interfacing. So in my opinion, it's another feature that preserves the integrity of the jacket and keeps it spec on. However, you can specify no interfacing, but then you would have the above problem.

Hope this helps...
-Sergei

Thanks Sergei--never heard that explanation before!

Take a look at Mike's full staff pic:



Great work!

Kind regards,
Indy

Love that pic, Mike!

Hate the interfacing. It's the one thing I'd change about the Expo. I couldn't stand how the cargo pocket flaps remained rigid as a board (affecting the drape) despite me apparently feeble attempts to break the stuff down by rolling the flaps between my hands for 30 minutes a pop. So, yes, they do work. I was able to break the collar one down a tad so the collar didn't stand upright all the time.

I guess it's just personal preference. Indy's didn't stay all perfect and I don't want mine that way. I'm glad Wested doesn't have them.

I.J.

Well you know you can order the jacket without the interfacing. In fact they can probably be surgically removed. Just a thought.

-S

I'd like to see what hides are on the horizon for the next year or so. When I order another Expo, it will definitely be without the interfacing.

I.J.

I thought that if a jacket did not have interfacings in the colar and the cargo pockets that after a few years they will begin to roll up at the corners and will not go back to their original position.

Is this true?

junior

Thanks for the compliments on the avatar/staff pic guys. I couldn't have done it without the use of Indy Magnoli's map image.

And just to keep this within topic, that's my ol' FS in that pic.... interfacing and all.

Mike

All jackets have interfacing, and it comes in various thicknesses and types for different parts of the jacket.
The interfacing on the pockets is usally softer than say a collar.
Also on the pockets flaps the interfacing would be fused to the underflap and not the top flap.
It would appear that not only have they used a too heavy interfacing but have fused it to the wrong side or put on the pocket flaps back to front.
Look at the underside of the flap and see if it is different. If that is OK you have your answer. An easy mistake to make which should have been spotted by the finishers.
Nobody is perfect, although I am getting close.
Cheers
Peter

Joe, I ordered mine without interfacing in the collar, but they said that they have to use it in the storm flap and the cargo flap for the zipper to be sewn straight making no waves and for the cargo flap to be able to be sewn coorectly. The collar didn't matter so they didn't mind NOT including it.

FYI, I spoke with Ken at Aero Leather Clothing and ha said the he doesn't use interfacings on any of his jackets as they were not used on the originals. He is very firm on this issue too.


My Expo should be here soon, just in time for the hot and humid Kentucky summer.

Alright!!


junior

With reagards to Aero they would not need interfacing as the leather they use is so thick it is not neccessary. It is only neccessary on the soft supple skins used in modern day garments.
Another thought about the crackling is that the interfacing may not have been fused propertly and is still in its raw state.
To clarify- the interfacing is cotton webbing coated with a glue and in its natural form is brittle and crackly. It is then fused or ironed onto the leather the glue melts and bonds the cotton webbing to the leather it is then soft and almost unnoticable only being there to strengthen and support the leather not to make it stiffer or less subtle.
Cheers
Peter

One final thought on the FS interfacing...

I was told today that they use a two interfacings in the jacket, not one. They are fused to the inside of the hide on the collar, cargo flap and storm flap. That crinkle sound you might here is not a loose interfacing. What you hear are the two interfacings rubbing against each other.

I asked them to not put the interfacings in the jacket I just ordered. They said that they must go into the storm flap and the cargo flap or they will not be able to sew the pieces together evenly. However the collar would be okay if it does not have it, construction wise, so I had the collar made without it. They said if the cargo pockets did not have such a distinct scallop shape that they could have done it there as well. As for the storm flap, even thouhgh it is straight, it has to go in to make sure it stays straight all the way down. This is fine with me because the collar is an area that I want to be ultra soft and pliable in a few years...iIF the flaps stay stiff, no big deal. They don't reallt have anything to do with the "wearability" anyway.

Just an FYI. Peter did a good job explaining his and I just wanted all to know the way FS does their facing construction.

Out,

junior