Club Obi Wan

I've got an OTR raiders wested and I'm just curious what depth the pleats should be as they seem kinda flarey. They measure 2 !/3" or 6cm in new money. Is this the norm or am I suffering from the Indyjacket paranoia that seems prevalent on the board?

read the thread.I just posted it

viewtopic.php?t=33228

Holt

hmm....so I'm living in a world of excessive pleatness! I wonder if mine is the norm for Wested OTR goat. I wish they'd just keep to one standard pattern for each style!

hovitos loincloth wrote:hmm....so I'm living in a world of excessive pleatness! I wonder if mine is the norm for Wested OTR goat. I wish they'd just keep to one standard pattern for each style!

Don't sweat it too much, the fashion changes with the season around here. Not so long ago people were requesting deep pleats to stop them "staying open" nowadays it seems the we want them open and as such narrower ones look better.

Check out the tarantula sequence when he looks around, they are actually quite deep, and when he hangs up the whip after swinging across the pit, the back of his jacket is fairly "wing like". People just focus on individual images and tend to caricature them.

well if you ask me....I just want everything like it should be..I personally am not into what is in or not..I like to get what the jacket was made after back then..smaller pleats.shorter back length and a little baggier sleeves,etc

bests
Holt

KT,you're probably right. Is there any medication for IJ paranoia other than buying more jackets?

yes there is...its called a straight jacket

Holt

Indiana Holt wrote:yes there is...its called a straight jacket

Holt

The last jacket you'll ever need...

crismans wrote:

Indiana Holt wrote:yes there is...its called a straight jacket

Holt

The last jacket you'll ever need...

Nah, that would be the wooden jacket, aka coffin

I am sure the other problem is there were a number of variations of each jacket made for each of the films -- There was not just one Raiders jacket - I am sure stunt jackets were different from regular hero jackets, etc, etc -- the solution would be to have as many different jackets for all the different scenes...

Ah yes, the "pine overcoat".

nicktheguy wrote:I am sure the other problem is there were a number of variations of each jacket made for each of the films -- There was not just one Raiders jacket - I am sure stunt jackets were different from regular hero jackets, etc, etc -- the solution would be to have as many different jackets for all the different scenes...

They varied a little tiny bit, but not enough to have a totally different look.

some of the differences in the Raiders jackets are.....

bigger/smaller pockets.different straps.bigger/smaller collar.inside silken lining.

bests
Holt

Let's not forget the "under the truck" stunt jacket which was one of the Wilson jackets with no action pleats at all.

I've come to be of the mind that it's all up to individual taste. There's not one 100% SA jacket since there were variations, but there is one design. Start with that one design, adjust the details to match whatever scene in which you like the jacket best, and create your own favorite jacket.

yeh,but that doesn't alter the fact that the pleats are the wrong size in the first place.I went to Wested primarily because they made the original so one would assume they'd know what they were doing,maybe I was wrong. I'm not super interested in SA stuff just that the jacket looks ok when worn.

Investigate if a local sewing shop (ie a cleaners etc) will adjust the jacket for you. All they have to do is open the liner and run a stitch up the inside of each pleat.

It's probably a $20 job, much cheaper than sending back to Wested.

Note: Pleat depth also seems to go up as the jackets get bigger. 1.25/1.5 on a 40 or so. What size is your jacket? (there seemed to be 1.25" pleats on very old jackets from 10 years or so ago)

Again, I reiterate most of the things people complain about the pattern stem from fan requests. Deep pleats, large pockets, zipper facings.

What your saying KT is right or so the story goes, but I wonder how many people actually requested deep pleating before Peter changed the pattern, I doubt it was enough people to warrant it - more probable it was just the right influentual people/person. I mean for the sake of keeping the pattern authentic the narrower pleats would have remained standard, if someone didn't like the look of the movie jacket (narrow opened pleats) they could request deep pleats on their custom order.

Doug C

Doug C wrote:What your saying KT is right or so the story goes, but I wonder how many people actually requested deep pleating before Peter changed the pattern, I doubt it was enough people to warrant it - more probable it was just the right influentual people/person. I mean for the sake of keeping the pattern authentic the narrower pleats would have remained standard, if someone didn't like the look of the movie jacket (narrow opened pleats) they could request deep pleats on their custom order.

Doug C

Oh I agree, every time I see him I say "narrow pleats!". Obviously I'm not that person! LOL.

But, yes if we tell them enough times, they will start making that narrower. But no doubt by then the blu ray version of Raiders will have come out and the tarantula scene will confirm deep pleats! .

Guys,the jacket is a 46 so I dunno if KT's size/pleat thing would explain my big pleats. I suppose if I had it altered the elastic inside'd have to be restitched.Maybe Wested's website should state "WARNING AS WELL AS BEING MADE OFFSHORE THIS MODEL HAS BIIIIGGGGG PLEATS"

I look at that sceen and don't see deep pleats (not like what Wested is doing anyway), the camera is at pleat level and almost focusing on it in a sort of magnified effect:



BUT, I think this picture of the same jacket puts it in a better perspective. You can show much more screen caps of a shallow pleated jacket than you can otherwise.



Doug C

hovitos loincloth wrote:yeh,but that doesn't alter the fact that the pleats are the wrong size in the first place.I went to Wested primarily because they made the original so one would assume they'd know what they were doing,maybe I was wrong. I'm not super interested in SA stuff just that the jacket looks ok when worn.

Oh yeah, I wasn't referring to your situation. If you don't like the deeper pleats, and that's what you got on your jacket, that could definitely be a problem.

I guess I jumped track a little and was referring to the issue of there being "one" jacket.

I just sent a brand new 80s cut raiders back to wested because it had pleats over 1.50" deep. I was a bit surprised that this detail was overlooked as I requested an 80s fit from the start, but I spoke to peter and he assured me they'd alter it so we'll see what I get back.

Coincidentally, has anyone ever sent anything back to wested to be altered?does it typically take a long time? I received my custom in less than two weeks to begin with but I don't know if I'll have the same luck this time around.

let me guess...was this the new soft goat raiders special ROLA?

bests
Holt

4 jackets for your consideration, it would be interesting to know which ones you prefer.

A

B

C

D

Indiana Holt wrote:let me guess...was this the new soft goat raiders special ROLA?

bests
Holt

Holt (I think you were asking me : )

I ordered a custom not an OTR or special offer. It was an authentic lambskin.

KT,I'd go for jacket A pleatwise. Jacket B looks very nice drapewise but looks like it's got a REALLY heavy collar,or are you wearing a lead fedora?

hovitos loincloth wrote:KT,I'd go for jacket A pleatwise. Jacket B looks very nice drapewise but looks like it's got a REALLY heavy collar,or are you wearing a lead fedora?

Jacket A, pleats 2 1/8"

Jacket B, pleats 1 1/2"

Jacket C, Pleats 1 3/4"

Jacket D, Pleats 1 1/4"

Sorry, it was a bit of a trick question. I believe between 1.5 and 2 is fine.

A:


B:

But the point is that the huge pleats look terrible (IMHO) when they are gaping open while being worn, giving a batwings effect.. not when they are laying closed on a jacket that's seen straight on from the back. That dimenstration sort of points out how all over the place the pleat depts are though, with the assumption that those jackets are fairly close in size of course.

Doug C

1.25'' pleats only for me..nothing bigger..no matter what jacket size..

bests
Holt

Doug C wrote:But the point is that the huge pleats look terrible (IMHO) when they are gaping open while being worn, giving a batwings effect.. not when they are laying closed on a jacket that's seen straight on from the back. That dimenstration sort of points out how all over the place the pleat depts are though, with the assumption that those jackets are fairly close in size of course.

Doug C

All the jackets are 38 or 40's.

What I am pointing out is that the 1.5" pleats look the best IMO.

When you open them up flat they do look bad but most of the time they don't end up that way. I think the pic posted further up the thread demonstrates a wider than 1.5" pleat 1.75" I'd guess.

A brief look through Raiders again show at least 2 distinct types of pleat. The flat opened-up one (eg when he is running from the arrows) and the functioning one. (eg. The tarantula sequence, and the idol grab). Takes your pick.

The slighty batwing effect? It's SA:



These 2 are definately deeper than 1.25 inches.

BTW the lining: cotton. No doubt in my mind.

actually that looks like cotten silesia to me..

Holt

I'd agree with Doug C.Laying flat it matters not one whit what size they are.When being worn I'm concerned that it looks like someones stuck a pair of leather bellows on my back! If 1.25" was the Raiders size then why isn't my Raiders jacket made by the people who made the Raiders jacket the correct size for a Raiders jacket!!!

I might have missed it, but I don't think anyone said that 1.25" was the actual depth for Raiders. I think it is a mesurement that was discovered that didn't let the pleats flare as much.

Regards, Geert

gwyddion wrote:I might have missed it, but I don't think anyone said that 1.25" was the actual depth for Raiders. I think it is a mesurement that was discovered that didn't let the pleats flare as much.

Regards, Geert

These are more than 1.25 I am sure of it.

What I'm argueing and I think we all agree is that they shouldn't be 2" or bigger, I've had a Wested with 'em like that, looked terrible. Here's the thing though, the pleats are hardly ever a consistant measurement all the way down, they may be slightly deeper at the very top and less down the pleat as I believe was the case with the tarantuala jacket, the number varies but over 2" looks ridiculous on an average sized jacket.

Doug C

Doesn't look like more than 1 1/2" to me, in that picture. Not greater, but very likely less.

Does anyone know if extending the back panel all the way to the seems changes how the pleats function? From my understanding this is more screen accurate but does not come standard on a Wested or any of the other vendors. It seems hard to get even if requested.

From looking at the tarantula pics, why is it that seemingly everyone but Todds makes the side-strap pull forwards rather than back as in the photos?

Can straps that are made pulled forwards be manually reversed or is that something you have to have reconstructed?

when looking at the scene from the temple I just found out that the temple jacket resembles my HH Raiders the most.it has the wider backpanel that flares out abit at the top by the yolk,giving it a little batwing effect.. my pletas are 1.5''