Club Obi Wan

First of all, the jacket is a goat. size 42 (my size of course).

So, there is a gap between the jacket and my back when the jacket is open.
(no gap when the jacket is closed).

I do not like the open action pleats...


What should I do to solve those problems?

Notice that my back is not that straight
Seen from the front, the jacket looks great!

Regards,

Nicolas

Looks ok to me. Indy's coat hangs the same way in KS. THe pleats do look a little bunched up inside, but it might just be the pic

Did you try to loosen up the side straps?? They look to be pulled tight in the picture, but that may be my eyes playing tricks.....

yep... side straps too tight it looks like to me as well.

One more vote for too snug a strap.

Those adjustment straps are only there to help keep the action pleats closed...not as an sizing adjuster.

Loosen them up so the back hangs straight, and I think you're good to go.

Regard !Michaelson

Have you ever considered wearing a size 40 (perhap even a 40 long) 'Cause I think if you loosen up the straps it'll just look too big and loose, where as if you did the same to a smaller jacket it would be just right. Of course we're only seeing one shot from one angle and not seeing a shot of the jacket zipped, so it's just a thought. BTW is that an RotLA special offer jacket?

Doug C

I've had the same problem on mine for years and have never gotten it to behave quite right.

All my Indy jackets do that to some degree. The only thing that would fix that would be to put some elastic at the bottom end of the jacket, but that would turn the jacket into something else other than an Indy jacket. I think the problem is that the back length of your jacket is too short and is causing it to flare up like that.

As you badmitted:

Notice that my back is not that straight

I would suggest standing with better posture. That should lessen the gap considerably.

The same thing was happening with my Todd's standard jacket. I too would suggest you make some strap adjustments. However, I found that at least with Todd's jacket, not too tight and not too loose, and the back drape improved greatly. I had to make several adjustments, but there was a sweet spot that worked great. Maybe worth a try to make some minor adjustments.
-Ben

I think that the shoulders fit pretty well, you are in the envious position of being quite slim. The back panel just has too much leather for you.

It could be helped a bit by the back panel being slimmed down a bit, but there are scenes in Raiders where his jacket does the same thing.

Donuts, I prescribe lots of donuts.

Kt Templar wrote: Donuts, I prescribe lots of donuts.

Shame on you KT!!! Do not listen to him kid......I once looked like you and was told the very exact same thing. Now I look like a donut in every which way!!!

Also, never ever tease a bald man......I did and am now going bald myself

My Wested Cowhide did the same thing to the point where it was bugging the heck out of me. I took it to the tailor to get it fixed. Cost me a bundle but it's much better now. My next jacket will be 80's fit.

Cowboy wrote:
Also, never ever tease a bald man......I did and am now going bald myself

That's what I tell my students that tease me about my thinning hair.

I shaved my head when I was 20, had mullet, so I guess that was good to get rid of that BUt the point of the story the hair never grew back as thick and it's really thin, I've give myself 5 years and I'll have the Patrick Stewart look but brown sides, insted of grey for a little while I hope.

I have my answer!

The problem is my back! (with the straps a little too tight)
I should stand more "straight", the gap disapear when I am in that position.
Eating dounuts might be a solution



Thanks guys!

Eating dounuts might be a solution

I've tried that. It creates different problems, believe me.

Regards! Michaelson

Looking at that picture it looks like the problem is mostly due to the cut of the jacket. Unless the angle of the picture is throwing my perspective off, here is what I see:

1) The back of the jacket looks short. Almost a couple of inches. Again, it could be the photo. I have owned a few jackets where this is the case and that leads me to the next item;

2) The back panel not being as long as it should be means it weighs less. Combined with a light-weight leather like lamb or goat, the leather itself does not weigh enough to fall the way it should. I never have problems like this with a mid-weight cow, steerhide or horsehide.

3) Another factor may not be that the back is too short, but the balance of the jacket does not match your frame. When you stand up straight at your normal posture, the jacket should fall comfortably to the front and back. Does the jacket feel right on your shoulders? Or does it feel like it wants to slide backwards? Some jackets do this and when you pull them onto your shoulders so they feel right, the back will ride up like yours...

4) The jacket construction itself. A slippery slope, this subject.

a) The way that the components are constructed with reference you your physique. Not to say that anything is wrong with either. But they do not work as well as they could when combined. The jacket might look perfect on someone else with a slightly different physique.

b) The yoke panel seems low and that gives that infamous "weird bump" at the top of the action pleats. I never notice this on the shorter yoke jackets.

c) Jackets that measure the same circumference in the body, can look drastically different simply by moving the side seams and arm hole forward or backward. I have had jackets that looked tight across the chest, but the back panel has way too much material as KT stated. Of course, this works the other way as well. I have had jackets that feel like they are pulling across the back of my shoulders and are really tight, but the front of the jacket is roomy.

Moving the pattern of the armholes/sleeves forward an inch might have fixed this, but I am not a jacket manufacturer, so maybe I am way off base here. In your case, with your slim build, the lower back panel could probably be tapered a bit more to get rid of the extra material there...

d) The side strap is pulling (as you can see by the wrinkles). It looks as if the wrinkles start at the upper middle of the back and radiate downwards and out to each side strap (assumably they are the same on each side). You would think that the straps would pull horizontally and not at that angle.

That is based on this one photo though. You may find that as it breaks in and softens more, the jacket does not do that as much. How does the back look while zipped?

If it helps any, my first Wested had the exact same ballooning effect at the waist when left unzipped. For my subsequent orders, I simply specified dimensions for a more tapered, V-shaped back-panel, and that seemed to do the trick! Especially considering that unless otherwise requested, the cut of a Wested is usually generous, which makes for a tight fit in the chest and some extra room in the waist.

However, as rick5150 mentioned, my jackets do have a tendency to feel tight in the back, especially when I lean forward with my elbows close together. I guess that's the price we must pay for a more complimentary cut!

If you are dead set on getting that look though, my personal advice would be that for the next jacket you get (or if you plan on getting an exchange), you simply need to put on the jacket, zip it up, and get someone to measure the backpanel on top and on the bottom to exclude the extra room. Either that, or just measure the bottom (if the top feels fine) for a tapered backpanel.

A word of warning though... doing so would probably make for a tight fit once the layering season rolls around the corner!

Hi,

This happens a little on my Wested Goat, but maybe if you relax the side straps; this may help.

Also I am finding that as my jacket gets worn more and more, and becomes softer; the jacket is draping more and hanging more vertical.

I wish you well with your jacket.

God Bless you,

Paul.

Funny thing boys. I wore my new good lookin CS Nova to the DK movie this weekend and guess what it did??? THe exact same thing as the kids did. I hope it will relax cause right now it is anoying as heck

Nicolas Jones wrote:First of all, the jacket is a goat. size 42 (my size of course).

So, there is a gap between the jacket and my back when the jacket is open.
(no gap when the jacket is closed).

I do not like the open action pleats...


What should I do to solve those problems?

Notice that my back is not that straight :)
Seen from the front, the jacket looks great!

Nicolas

I actually like this look. Wouldn't worry about it.

Regards,

For my subsequent orders, I simply specified dimensions for a more tapered, V-shaped back-panel,

You can do that?? I had this happen BIG time on my Wested cowhide. The cow being so stiff didn't help. I ended up tailoring the jacket so it wouldn't look as silly as it did (way worse than yours Nicolas).

Good to know this Castor. I'll be sure to specify this for my next jacket since I have fairly wide shoulders.
....I hope I get it though.