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Custom Sizing Question

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 5:12 pm
by Rene Belloq
I have finally figured out all of the options I want on my custom goat raiders, but a few of the sizing parameters have me confused like

Height - Measure in Feet/Inches or Metric - Does that mean total body height?

Chest - Measure round chest under arms loosely - under armpit or around stomach?

Sleeve Length Measure from Shoulder Seam to Cuff or from a Jacket
Sleeve - What is considered the shoulder seem?

Back Length Measure from under collar to finish - How would you go about this measure without using a another jacket for comparison?

Jacket Size - UK and USA are the same, or Continental Size - What exactly does this want, the size of a jacket you already own?

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:15 pm
by jacksdad
The best thing to do is go to a local tailor or a suit place ,bring a sheet of paper of what you have written here and get measured.this way there are no mistakes and you can get accurate measurements for your wested.

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 7:42 pm
by Rene Belloq
Haha I did but I forgot the sheet I wrote up so they couldn't do much for me, I have to go back at a later date, but I still would like to know what is considered the shoulder seem; Is it the spot where an arm is sewed onto a shirt or jacket?

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:12 pm
by jacksdad
I'm not sure that's why I suggested a tailor,I wouldn't want to give out bad info. Maybe other s might know. good luck.

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:08 pm
by CM
Rene Belloq wrote:Haha I did but I forgot the sheet I wrote up so they couldn't do much for me, I have to go back at a later date, but I still would like to know what is considered the shoulder seem; Is it the spot where an arm is sewed onto a shirt or jacket?
I think the magnoli site has guides to measuring.

Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:33 pm
by bobjones

Re: Custom Sizing Question

Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 5:01 am
by Zombie Jones
Rene Belloq wrote:Height - Measure in Feet/Inches or Metric - Does that mean total body height?
Yes. For example, I'm 6'1" tall, so that's the measurement I sent them.
Rene Belloq wrote:Chest - Measure round chest under arms loosely - under armpit or around stomach?
Under your armpits. For most people, it would be more accurate to place the measuring tape at or just above the nipples. For people who carry more weight around their midsection (i.e, the area between the lowest part of the chest and the navel) it might be advisable to include this measurement as well, so the jacket will not be too snug when zipped.
Rene Belloq wrote:Sleeve Length Measure from Shoulder Seam to Cuff or from a Jacket
Sleeve - What is considered the shoulder seem?
This seems to differ depending on the tailor; some measure from the seam at the shoulder, others measure from the collar (from the neck to the outermost part of the shoulder, then down to the wrist). When I ordered my Wested I used a suit jacket that fits perfectly as a "model", and sent the measurement of the sleeve from the cuff to the top of the seam where the sleeve attaches to the "body" of the jacket, and the sleeves on my Wested jacket are the perfect length for me.
Rene Belloq wrote:Back Length Measure from under collar to finish - How would you go about this measure without using a another jacket for comparison?
I suppose you could use a dress shirt or tee shirt instead of a jacket. Have someone measure you from the collar seam to where you want the jacket to hang. I might recommend using a jacket, however, because the tailor would have to take into account the thickness of the material in order for your jacket to drape properly. It's a slight difference, to be sure, but "the devil's in the details." :wink:

At this point I'd like to add this is the one area where my Wested jacket differed from the measurement I sent. The jacket I received seemed a bit long, so I checked it. I sent them a "back length" measurement of 26", and my jacket measured 27.5". They may have a vaild reason for doing this, but I didn't question it because I like the jacket the way it is, so I don't know if this was intentional or simply an oversight.
Rene Belloq wrote:Jacket Size - UK and USA are the same, or Continental Size - What exactly does this want, the size of a jacket you already own?
Yes, preferably a suit jacket. I wear a 44 Long, so that's the size I sent them. If you don't own a suit (which is not uncommon these days) you can go to any store that sells suits and try on a few jackets to see which size fits best. Generally speaking, your jacket size is the same as your chest measurement, though this is not always the case. For example, someone with a 38" chest and broad shoulders may be more comfortable in a size 40. Also, don't forget there is a difference between a 40 Regular and a 40 Long, so you may want to try on both to see which you prefer.

If you're unsure in any way, I would agree the best thing to do would be to have a professional tailor measure you. I took my own measurements, then got measured by a professional at the same shop I purchased my suit from years ago (Men's Wearhouse). His measurements were the same as mine except for the sleeve length--I measured 26", he measured 27", so I split the difference.

Hope this helps!

Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 10:39 am
by Rene Belloq
Thanks for the help guys, should help a lot.