Club Obi Wan

I remember reading here that the "80's fit" idea was simply a sizing gimmick of a few years back, which essentially attempts to describe a tighter cut. There are no surviving Wested Indy jackets from the 1980's which look screen accurate. In fact, the Indy jacket pattern, as available today, owes as much to Lee Keppler and G&B as it does anyone else.

I also understand that the idea of a 1980's cut is essentially a recent idea to suggest that there are 1980's patterns available today. It's there to offer people a different Indy jacket interpretation - but has very little to do with the actual jacket in the film.

Is that wrong?

There are MANY posts about this, but in this is my belief -- in brief: The 80's cut is the "real" cut used for Harrison but the "regular" Wested was modified to make it more a usable everyday jacket rather than a costume item. And bluntly, most guys are just too fat to get into an 80's cut -- Hollywood stars if not bulked-up for a particular role, are slender or slimmed-down.

And bluntly, most guys are just too fat to get into an 80's cut -- Hollywood stars if not bulked-up for a particular role, are slender or slimmed-down.

Blunt? Yes.

Dead on target?.....sadly......yes.....sigh.



Regards! Michaelson

My older Wested Raiders jacket was always too loose in the waist/belly when zipped up. Based on posts in other threads I figured I would try the 80's cut to see if it would make the difference when I ordered another jacket earlier this year. Night and day. So much so that I should probably watch the number of chee-tos and pretzels I eat to keep fitting in the newer jacket .
-Ben

Here's my belief.

I'm a new member but a long time lurker. I've never owned an 80's cut, so anyone out there feel free to cut me to shreds

I beleive theres one central problem in the search for the 'real' indy cut.

The jacket was made for Harrison ford, a generation ago.

The cut of the jacket was made to fit Ford.

And none of us are Harrison Ford. Everyones body is different.
Although we could probably all get a truly authentic jacket, for most -if not all- it would be a display piece, as it was made to fit Ford and nobody else.

What we are left with, is many different people, all with different bodies, trying to look like a screen-cap of raiders.

Truth is, i beleive, if you are a skinny build, the 80's fit will be more SA. If you are a standard, or wider, build, then the standard cut will be more SA.

Its all relative to body shape.

I would be interested to hear anyine who disagrees, though, as i'm thinking of getting an 80's cut right now.

I haven't ordered an 80's cut Wested because I believe Platon's comments about the decreased length, and couldn't predict how much this would shorten the jacket. I didn't want to provide my measurements only to find that the 80's cut construction made it shorter.

I think SA cut is largely a function of how the jacket fits under the armpits, with little flare-out when the arms are raised. Unless Peter personally measures you for a jacket, there will always be some flare-out. So I concluded that precise measurements together with clear instructions in your order form will result in your best shot at a Raiders-looking cut.

SD

St. Dumas wrote:I haven't ordered an 80's cut Wested because I believe Platon's comments about the decreased length, and couldn't predict how much this would shorten the jacket. I didn't want to provide my measurements only to find that the 80's cut construction made it shorter.

I think SA cut is largely a function of how the jacket fits under the armpits, with little flare-out when the arms are raised. Unless Peter personally measures you for a jacket, there will always be some flare-out. So I concluded that precise measurements together with clear instructions in your order form will result in your best shot at a Raiders-looking cut.

SD

Thats a better way of putting it than i managed, Jean-Paul Valley

I was of the understanding that the "80's cut" was a theory developed here and given to Wested based on the notion that jackets in the early 80's tended to run a little tighter all around.

My last two Westeds have been "80's cut" but to be honest, I can't see a huge difference to my 'standard' cut jackets. There is a noticeable difference in the arms, but other than this, I've not felt the difference. I'm 5'11" and lean. I'm no longer chasing the fallacy of screen accuracy anymore, just something that suggests Indy than 'screams' Indy.

In fact, the Indy jacket pattern, as available today, owes as much to Lee Keppler and G&B as it does anyone else.

It seems to be the elephant in the room that few discuss, but it's become apparent to me (I am happy to stand corrected) that Wested don't have the original patterns for either the Raiders or LC jackets. This is not a criticism by any means as I love the jackets Peter has made for me and will continue to, however history tends to show that Wested have refined their jackets from COW input rather than referencing mythical patterns that don't appear to exist. Their Indy jackets from the 90s are a far cry from the great product they offer now.

Of course, you're a perfect "fit" for the 80's cut. But if your arms were a little larger and your shoulders bulky, you just wouldn't. An inch or two makes a lot of difference. Anyway, if you were 5' 11" but had a 40-inch waist, you'd need something a bit more forgiving than the 80's cut. It's why so many sportcoats have this boxy "modern cut" with low armholes to accomodate the "larger" man of today -- partly due to weightlifting but mostly due to beer&pizza-eating.

I had Magnoli make me up a custom 1930's motorcycle jacket and I wanted it to have the true 1930's cut which in my opinion makes the jacket look vintage. With the measurements I provided to him I got the best fitting jacket I've ever put on. It's really snug when zipped, has small armpit openings and slender sleeves with a snug fitted waist. In other words, it fits like a tailored suit coat.

Now recently I purchased a G&B Expedition in 42R. I was really surprised at how loose the fit was. The mid arm (bicep) is huge, the armpit holes are huge, the waist, even when cinched all the way down is huge, zipped up I have about 5 extra inches in the chest and my chest is exactly 42". The sleeves are exactly the right length and the shoulders fit fine. It's still nowhere near the enormousness of a U.S. Wings cut, but I expected it to be a little more snug than it was.

The fit on my Magnoli is so perfect that I guess I'm spoiled now.

I think all jackets made in this day and age are made for larger people and it would simply be too cost prohibitave for most companies to offer athletic fits. I wish more companies did. Fit is everything and as much as I love my G&B I feel like I'm a little kid wearing his father's jacket. Although I always thought that the 'Raiders' jacket looked baggy on Ford. His droops over his shoulders and has a frumpy mid section. It never looked like a snug fit 80's jacket to me.

The concept of 80s fit was developed by Chris King when in a telephone conversation he had with Peter, the latter admitted that he had modified the original pattern (used for Ford) to be in line with modern style jackets which have fuller cut. Peter was asked to produce a tight fitting jacket to resemble the Ford jacket and so the 80s fit was born.

My personal opinion is that the 80s fit jacket as exists today is even slimmer than what ford wore. So the 'slim scale' should be as follows:

80s fit > Ford's jacket > standard cut

In my opinion the 80s fit is just too tight. I think Peter overdid it to please us. I believe that the standard cut is much more similar to the film jacket that Ford wore and there are plenty of photos to support that.

Of course, the above consitutes only my personal opinion.

PLATON wrote:The concept of 80s fit was developed by Chris King when in a telephone conversation he had with Peter, the latter admitted that he had modified the original pattern (used for Ford) to be in line with modern style jackets which have fuller cut. Peter was asked to produce a tight fitting jacket to resemble the Ford jacket and so the 80s fit was born.

My personal opinion is that the 80s fit jacket as exists today is even slimmer than what ford wore. So the 'slim scale' should be as follows:

80s fit > Ford's jacket > standard cut

In my opinion the 80s fit is just too tight. I think Peter overdid it to please us. I believe that the standard cut is much more similar to the film jacket that Ford wore and there are plenty of photos to support that.

Of course, the above consitutes only my personal opinion.

Yes, that sounds good. I guess my thoughts here are that the original Raiders patterns are long gone. Any 1980's cut, or any Raiders cut for that matter was reinvented years later.

Well, judging from what I see on screen, the jacket looks very baggy in RotLA, just maybe in a different way than what a standard cut offers us. I also am guessing that it would be, by today's Wested standards, a size Long. The 80's fit certainly looks good on slim folks, but is IMO not accurate to Indy. The 80's maybe, but not Indy.

PLATON wrote:The concept of 80s fit was developed by Chris King when in a telephone conversation he had with Peter, the latter admitted that he had modified the original pattern (used for Ford) to be in line with modern style jackets which have fuller cut. Peter was asked to produce a tight fitting jacket to resemble the Ford jacket and so the 80s fit was born.

My personal opinion is that the 80s fit jacket as exists today is even slimmer than what ford wore. So the 'slim scale' should be as follows:

80s fit > Ford's jacket > standard cut

In my opinion the 80s fit is just too tight. I think Peter overdid it to please us. I believe that the standard cut is much more similar to the film jacket that Ford wore and there are plenty of photos to support that.

Exactly my thoughts.

I also think Ford's jacket is something in between 80's fit and standard cut.

The body of the 80's fit jacket looks better on me, but I really like the wider sleeves of the standard cut.

It seems to me that the only way to achieve true screen accuracy would be to obtain the exact measurements of The Jacket as well as the exact measurements of The Star. Someone -- several -- decided just "how" Harrison should look -- "looser" "tighter here"... and so the basis would be how much fabric/leather would be used in any area.

And many have noted that they have problems with the way the jacket actually does appear onscreen in Raiders. So you need all the measurements available, and you have to decide what's right for you, and custom is the only way to go.

It does seem that clothing, in general, is being tailored to accommodate the "larger" man. I am 5'7" and weigh 175 lbs. I have a 42" chest and a 33-34" waist. The kicker is: I have an 18" neck. In my profession, I have to frequently wear suits and ties, and purchasing a shirt that fits my neck, and doesn't look like a tent, is impossible. The bodies and armholes are just huge. I have to have my shirts custom made.

Several years ago, before joining a gym (and before my metabolism slowed with age), I wore a size 38. However, my Wested Raiders jacket, size 38, would balloon out at the waist, no matter how tightly I pulled the side straps.

I just ordered a Wested LC jacket, gave Peter my measurements, and I pray that it actually fits!

Michaelson wrote:

And bluntly, most guys are just too fat to get into an 80's cut -- Hollywood stars if not bulked-up for a particular role, are slender or slimmed-down.

Blunt? Yes.

Dead on target?.....sadly......yes.....sigh.



Regards! Michaelson

As dad used to say, "Furniture problems. My chest has slipped into my drawers."

TheMechanic wrote: ... Now recently I purchased a G&B Expedition in 42R. I was really surprised at how loose the fit was. The mid arm (bicep) is huge, the armpit holes are huge, the waist, even when cinched all the way down is huge, zipped up I have about 5 extra inches in the chest and my chest is exactly 42". The sleeves are exactly the right length and the shoulders fit fine. It's still nowhere near the enormousness of a U.S. Wings cut, but I expected it to be a little more snug than it was ...

That's another issue where clothing manufacturers are wanting the general population to feel good about their weight / size. A size 32 waist today would have been about a size 34 15 years ago. (At least that appears to be true with the clothes I buy)

For mail-order or auction-buying one needs three measurements: Chest, Waist, and Bottom Sweep. If any are too tight or far-too-loose there's a problem.