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80s fit or standard; whats the Wested difference?

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:29 am
by Doeindy
Hi all.

I am getting closer to that magical day when I go and purchase my first Indy jacket. I want to keep to the original designer; our good pal Peter at Wested.

I was completely up for Auth brown Lamb, but as I read more of the topics/replies; I am starting to see that Goat may be the best option for duribility purposes.

I know this could be my first and last jacket as I do not have allot of money to spare; so I will treasure that jacket, and will try not to be over protective.

My question is:

What is the diference between a 80s fit and a standard fit Raiders Goat? please be more descriptive than using terms like storm flaps and such; I do not understand allot of the terms used here and I am just trying to get my head arround all of parts of a jacket.

I know you guys will know.

PS: When I finally get my jacket (can not wait); do I need to treat it straight away? (before I take it out into the elements)

Thank you to all who entertain this question.

Paul.

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:43 am
by Indiana Strones
I think the 80s has a more slim fit.

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:20 am
by PLATON
Yeah, the 80s fit is slim fit and that has one major side effect. It makes the jacket appear shorter i.e. unlike the film jacket.

Some people here have other views but before you buy (because it's your money) I suggest you don't listen to any of us here and just find and compare photos of 80s fit and standard fit with the film jacket and then pick the one you'll like most.

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:01 am
by PSBIndy
I treat all my jackets w/Pecards as soon as I get them. It keeps the leather soft and protects from moisture. These jackets are not cheap and you want to protect your investment.

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:13 pm
by Doeindy
Strones, PLATON and PSB.

Thank you for the feedback. I am gradually starting to understand and become aware of what is important about getting a jacket and also looking after a jacket.

The advice you have given me is just what I required and I thank you for your time and effort answering.

I just have to find somewhere to get Pecards from in England. I am taking a stab at it, but would I be right in buying clear Pecards?

Thanks again,

Paul :clap:

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:20 pm
by JulianK
From what I understand, the 80's fit has 2 less inches of excess in the chest.

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:39 pm
by Kt Templar
Hi Paul,

I think as you have the luck of living within striking distance of the barn, your best bet is to go and try some on :). All the sizing issues are non issues when you have a few dozen jackets to try on, and if you can't find one that fits, you'll probably be able to find one that can be used as a template.

80's fit

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:45 pm
by YARVTON
If the 80's fit has 2-inches less in the chest, what is the actual chest measurement of say, size 40?

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:58 pm
by Holt
the standard and 80's fit are different from one another but not THAT much...they are similar...but still they are different...

the standard has fuller cut to the body,meaning it's wider in the torso and chest.
the 80's cut or special ROLA as wested calls it has a more tappered body to it.more fitting in the torso.

the sleeves are also a bit wider and untappered on a standard cut while the 80's has tappered sleeves and a tad thighter and higher armholes.

the standard has 4'' of extra chest room while the 80's has 2 '' of extra chest room

the 80's of the rack has a longer body length to it also.I think it's 26'' on a 44 while the standard44 has 25.25'' ( I think?) maby 25.5''

the 80's comes without the leather facings.more rounded top corner at storm flap.longer straps.X-box stitch.smaller pockets.Screen accurate narrow pleats.silver zipper.tappered sleeves.higher armholes.

while the standard of the rack is different from time to time.some times it comes without the X-box and sometimes it comes without something else that needs to be on the jacket...
the standard has leather facings.heavy duty zipper.thicker lambskin.it comes with D-rings.bigger pockets....and off course the standard comes with MUCH deeper pleatsthen the 80's..and usually stand out like bat wings IMO when it's broken in..but you can ask Peter if he can install elastic bands in the pleats so they stay more closed.

but overall the standard in my opinion is a great Indy ''style'' jacket while the 80's is more Indyish..you get a more Raiders feeling IMO.

when I order a standard jacket I order one with modifications..just so I get everything that I want on a Indy jacket...

hope that this helps you a bit on deciding wich of the rack jacket you want.

regards
Holt

Indiana Holt

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 2:52 pm
by YARVTON
That post was VERY HELPFUL. You answered so many questions at once, and one can actually visualize the differences because of your descriptions. Thanks again!

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 3:52 pm
by Doeindy
Again you guys have answered the question in a wining formular. Thanks for all your help.

Eric; I am going to have to print your specs off so I can take them with me to see Peter; those specs should be placed on a information page on this site; they are too good to waste. Well done.

Jason; you are bang on with the visiting Wested to try the jackets on. I can see allot of sense in that. If I can make this Saturday I will. I will send a messgage to if I can make it or not.

Thanks again for everyones help; you have all been a terrific bunch of pals and pulled it out of the bag.
:clap:
Thank you,

Paul.

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 3:57 pm
by Holt
sure anytime :D

I just updated a few things on it...so if you are save what I just wrote,then save this one.


bests
Holt

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:02 pm
by Indiana Strones
Doeindy wrote: I just have to find somewhere to get Pecards from in England. I am taking a stab at it, but would I be right in buying clear Pecards?
Finding Pecards in England is very easy:

http://www.antiqueleatherdressing.co.uk ... shop.shtml

Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:33 pm
by Doeindy
Thats just what I needed to know Strones; great stuff.

You guys are getting me set up well for my first jacket.

Thank you all so much.

Paul.

Durability and 80's Fit

Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 5:59 pm
by indycurtis
How's the durability on 80's fit?
I understand that the standard is supposed to have modifications to it to make it tougher, ex. the heavier zipper. How does the 80's fit hold up in comparison? Can it take a beating?

Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:22 pm
by Holt
special ROTLA Lamb....well....it can take a beating,but it can also tear pretty quick....


the Lambskin used on the 80's jackets are the thinest batch wested has in the shop..the standard comes with a slightly thicker leather.

the 80's Lamb is good for normal everyday wear,meaning no rolling around on a rocky coastline,or jumping over barbwire.........if you want the jacket to use on 'adventures' then I would go for a thicker hide...


here:

the 80's jacket or 'special Rolta' Lamb is 2.5lb
the standard raiders Lamb is 2.75lb
the Goat is 3lb
the Novapella is 3.5lb
the HH is 4.25lb


the Cow is in between the Novapella and the HH (I think)

bests
Holt

Built Ford Tough

Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:44 pm
by indycurtis
I've read that before. I'm figuring I"ll go with the goat, which i hear is pretty indestructible. I was wondering more if there is a durability difference in the construction? As long as i get the right hide, can the 80's cut still jump over barbed wire and roll over rocky coastline?

Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:47 pm
by Holt
yes off course it can...

it's the same jacket as a standard but only with a couple inches less in body room....and the 80's has more SA specs..

thats all

you can request a 80's with heavy cuty zip and facings if you like...just ask Peter

bests
Holt

Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 10:04 pm
by Bardoon
I suppose another question to ask yourself to is: WHAT DO I PLAN TO WEAR MY JACKET FOR?

Everyday wear? Costuming? Limited wear? etc.

Keep that in mind when ordering as well.

Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 12:36 am
by IndyBrit
Hi Paul,

I am going to Wested this Saturday. Confirmed just after 9 with Peter, he will not be there in the afternoon BTW. KT is right get down to the barn and all the size and hide choices are there.

I be done by 10. If you can make it it would be good to meet another COWer. Not sure if KT will join us, it's a bit early!

Christian.

As tough as tough is

Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:25 pm
by indycurtis
Bardoon wrote:I suppose another question to ask yourself to is: WHAT DO I PLAN TO WEAR MY JACKET FOR?

Everyday wear? Costuming? Limited wear? etc.

Keep that in mind when ordering as well.
Honestly, mostly day to day wear. But I'm sort of going the same way they went when making the adventurebilt fedora-- I want a jacket as tough and stylish as Indiana Jones' even if all I do with it is mostly everyday where. Then I can take just a bit of comfort in knowing, that even if I don't plan to be dragged behind a truck so i can beat up a bunch of nazis and save the ark of the covenant, I know that my jacket could handle it, and still look awesome of the other side. 'Cause let's face it, Indiana Jones probably wasn't planning on getting dragged behind a truck so he could beat up a bunch of nazis and save the ark of the covenant either. :D