Club Obi Wan

I am on the market for a custom raiders jacket, and I've been researching the forum pretty intensely for the last month or so on just this topic. Which has left me with a few questions and looking to verify I few details. This is what I've got so far...

Jacket style: There seems to be standard cut and 80's cut. Which is more screen accurate? I know that this is offered in an otr jacket, but can it be requested with a custom jacket? Does this require any special measuring to ensure a good fit?

Hide: I'm going to get authentic brown goat skin: the consensus seems to be that it drapes similarly to the SA lamb, but VERY durable.

Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly? There is a diagram in the thread viewtopic.php?t=15367 which seems to indicate that what I have is my ARM length and not my Shoulder length. Which also begs the question: Which one am I supposed to provide for them?)

The Jacket Length should be 1-2in below waist. Some say it should be 3-4 in below waist, but that is generally attributed to scenes where Harrison is wearing his pants up higher. So, I'll go with 2 in to be safe. BUT HOW TO I MEASURE FOR LENGTH? (if someone could post photos of how to do the measurements that would be awesome. Do they measure THAT at Men's Wearhouse?)

The pockets should measure 7 x 6.5 inches (or 7.5" by 6.25"?) with 2.75 in. scalloped flaps to be SA. Is this correct? If so, how do you include this detail in your order?
There also seems to be a question of pocket distance from zipper/storm flap. I found these numbers
Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
both about 2" from bottom of the jacket.
Are these numbers accurate? If so, how do you include them in your order?

Side fasteners: The updated indygear website says that they D-rings were replaced with black metal sliders because the D rings didn't hold well. Is that still the case? Do people have a functional or aesthetic preference of one over the other? It seems like back sliders are the SA way to go.

X box stitch: Screen accurate way of attaching leather for sliders?

Zipper: the standard is a nickel 8 gauge, but some say that the teeth look too big to be SA? So 5 gauge nickel? Here I will err on the side of quality and practicality, but I'd also like to know what the SA choice is.

Finally Gussets: What are these exactly? What are they good for? Are they SA? What do people think of them?

To conclude, my last, and perhaps, most important question is do you give your actual measurements (so my arm measurement would be 34) or your requested measurements (36.5)?

Thank you much. I know this is a lot. I have been researching for a while, and now I'm looking to get the facts straight. Once and for all. I will have them straight.

Forget all that rot, just get a G&B.



Just my opinion and partly in jest...

Seriously though, if I'm not mistaken, I don't think Peter allows that kind of custom anymore. Just fill out his form with all the choices you want and your body measurements (Magnoli has a good measurement form on his site to help you figure out how) and you're set.

The Gussets are a go! I found an old thread where _ and Peter confirm that the hero jacket had gussets, the costume designers wanted gussets, to gosh darn it, I Want Them Too!!!

Most of the other items I mention (excepting the pocket specifications) are options on Peter's website. The question still remains, do you supply body measurements? Or jacket measurements?

Looking forward to learning more as more reply.
Cheers

Body measurements.

You know, after watching a couple of 'Mythbusters' I think the best way to go is to take a body cast of yourself and then make a rubber mould of your torso and mail that to Peter.

Mind you Peter would probably not take too kindly to having hundreds of rubber torsos laying around.

indycurtis wrote:Jacket style: There seems to be standard cut and 80's cut. Which is more screen accurate? I know that this is offered in an otr jacket, but can it be requested with a custom jacket? Does this require any special measuring to ensure a good fit?

I think the most SA one is something in between standard and 80's cut.
If you're slim build, I would go for the 80's cut, otherwise I would choose the standard cut.

indycurtis wrote:Hide: I'm going to get authentic brown goat skin: the consensus seems to be that it drapes similarly to the SA lamb, but VERY durable.

It's more durable than lamb, but slightly sturdier and not 100% SA.

indycurtis wrote:Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly? There is a diagram in the thread viewtopic.php?t=15367 which seems to indicate that what I have is my ARM length and not my Shoulder length. Which also begs the question: Which one am I supposed to provide for them?)

Your 36.5" measurement would be correct (sleeve lenght = shoulder to first thumb knuckle), but personally I would skip that extra 0.5" wrinkle thing.

indycurtis wrote:The Jacket Length should be 1-2in below waist. Some say it should be 3-4 in below waist, but that is generally attributed to scenes where Harrison is wearing his pants up higher. So, I'll go with 2 in to be safe. BUT HOW TO I MEASURE FOR LENGTH? (if someone could post photos of how to do the measurements that would be awesome. Do they measure THAT at Men's Wearhouse?)

Measure the back of a jacket along the spine from the collar (not the stormflap) to the lowest end of the jacket.

indycurtis wrote:The pockets should measure 7 x 6.5 inches (or 7.5" by 6.25"?) with 2.75 in. scalloped flaps to be SA. Is this correct? If so, how do you include this detail in your order?
There also seems to be a question of pocket distance from zipper/storm flap. I found these numbers
Left Pocket- 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap.
Right Pocket- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket).
both about 2" from bottom of the jacket.
Are these numbers accurate? If so, how do you include them in your order?

For a size 40 7"x 6.5 " with 3" scalloped flaps is great.
1.75" from bottom of jacket.

indycurtis wrote:Side fasteners: The updated indygear website says that they D-rings were replaced with black metal sliders because the D rings didn't hold well. Is that still the case? Do people have a functional or aesthetic preference of one over the other? It seems like back sliders are the SA way to go.

IMO they should be black metal triglides.
The second SA choise should IMO be two pair of black metal rectangular loops.
Forget the D-rings for a SA Raiders jacket.

indycurtis wrote:X box stitch: Screen accurate way of attaching leather for sliders?

Yep. X-box stitching is SA.

indycurtis wrote:Zipper: the standard is a nickel 8 gauge, but some say that the teeth look too big to be SA? So 5 gauge nickel? Here I will err on the side of quality and practicality, but I'd also like to know what the SA choice is.

100% SA would be an allumunium 5 gauge zipper, but the 5 gauge nickel one should be the second SA choice.

indycurtis wrote:[Finally Gussets: What are these exactly? What are they good for? Are they SA?

Gussets are little extra pieces of leather in the armpits of the jacket.
They are a nice SA addition if you want a more stuntman version look.
They gave the stuntmen slightly more upward arm movement during the action scenes.

indycurtis wrote:To conclude, my last, and perhaps, most important question is do you give your actual measurements (so my arm measurement would be 34) or your requested measurements (36.5)?

Your requested measurements.

I thought for sleeve length Wested just asked for the measurement of a sleeve from a jacket that fits? I am 6'3" tall and I have a Harley Davidson Jacket, that fits real well, and the sleeve on it is 26 1/2. That is the measurement that I am giving to Wested when I order mine. Is that incorrect?

Just be sure to tell them where you're taking that measurement from. I'm assuming you're measuring from the shoulder seam where the sleeve is attached to the jacket, down to the end of the cuff, right?

That's where I take my measurements from, but some companies take the sleeve length from the base of the collar stand to the end of cuff. Using your supplied measurement and thinking about this information, you'd end up with a jacket that has a sleeve cuff that will end just below your elbow.

Just tell Peter where you took the measurement from, and he'll know what to do.

Regards! Michaelson

Thanks for the info, Michaelson. I appreciate it.

Randy

Glad to do it.

I'm sure if Peter had a question about it, he'd ask before doing a thing....but the more info you can provide, the quicker your turn around can be, REGARDLESS of who is making your jacket...or hat....or what ever.

Regard! Michaelson

Sleeve length should be measured to the first knuckle of the thumb (base of thumb). And add at least 1/2" to compensate for wrinkling. So my shoulder to wrist measurement is 34. To knuckle is 36. and with .5in for wrinkling is 36.5in. (Did i even measure that correctly?

I'm assuming you're measuring from the shoulder seam where the sleeve is attached to the jacket, down to the end of the cuff, right?

You may want to revist this one.

If your shoulder to wrist measures 34 inches, than you have the longest
arms in the world!!

Most people have a jacket sleeve length around 25 or 26 inches when measured
the way Michealson said, NOT 34 inches!!

If you give that measurement to Peter, you will have to get almost
a good foot taken off the jacket the sleeves will be so long.

In order to get a measurement of 34 to 36 inches as you are describing,
you have to be measuring from the center of the back of your neck,
across one shoulder, and then down your arm to your wrist/knuckle.

Thats the proper way to measure for correct sleeve length, and is the industry standard.

The way Michealson suggested is also a good way to compare one jacket
to another in order to get a proper fitting jacket, and alot of vendors like
to have that info as well.

But there is no way in heck that just your shoulder to your wrist is 34 inches.

Flathead