What to Look For When Purchasing?
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Indiana Neri
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What to Look For When Purchasing?
Pardon my ignorance, but what does one look for when buying an antique gun at a retailer? It's not like you can squeeze off a couple of rounds to see if it shoots before you purchase. Especially the older models like a SA Indy revolver, whether it be a S&W, Webley, or Colt. How much is TOO much? Just curious....
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binkmeisterRick
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Though a number of things will be different when looking at semi-autos, when I look at revolvers (my personal preference) I look at the following:
1. How does the overall finish look? It the blueing pristine? Is there any patina/wear? Is it completely rusted out? General patina is quite common on older firearms and is often not a probelm.
2. Is the cylinder tight? With the gun closed and hammer down, does the cylinder wiggle significantly when you try to move it? A very little bit of play isn't bad, but if it has too much play or wiggle, there may be greater concerns. Keep in mind, if the bullet doesn't line up with the barrel, that is BAD. I also pull back the hammer and try the cylinder again. The cylinder should NOT spin when the hammer is pulled back.
3. When pulling back the hammer, make sure it feels and moves properly. The cylinder should turn as you pull back the hammer. NEVER dry fire a gun! To release the hammer, keep your thumb on the spur of the hammer and gently squeese the trigger. Use your thumb to bring the hammer back down easily. This is also a good way to check out the trigger pull.
4. Check the ejector rod and make sure it isn't bent. Open up the gun and let the cylinder open out. I like to spin the cylinder while looking down it to make sure it spins and moves smoothly. Push the ejector rod to make sure it operates correctly. Look in the cylinder bores to make sure there is no rust or spots inside. If you take a white sheet of paper and angle it underneath, the light should reflect upwards, giving you a good idea of how clean it is. One or two minor spots should be cleanable, but major corrosion would be a big concern if you plan to fire the gun.
5. Before closing the cylinder, examine the inside of the frame. Use the same technique to examine the inside of the barrel. You want this and the rifling to be as shiney and smooth as possible. It is recommended that you don't look down the sight end of the barrel to do this, though with longer barrels, it's tricky to view it from the frame end. It can be done, however. Also, with the cylinder out, try the hammer again. The hammer should be locked in place at this point (at least on my S&W).
6. Make sure the cylinder clicks back in place nicely and firmly.
7. If all the above checks out, you should have a pretty good gun in your hands. Again, I always ask (if a gunsmith is on hand or take it to one) to make sure it's safe for firing before ever loading a single bullet in it. Also ask what ammo is best and safest to shoot in it. There may be better and safer choices for older guns.
Other things to consider:
NEVER point the gun at anyone, PERIOD! I usually keep my "aim" to the floor when examining a firearm.
Always ask questions if you have them, no matter how silly you think the question may be. These are NOT toys, so be certain to have every question you have answered. Besides, if you don't know much about guns, most gun shops are happy to educate you.
Again, make sure any older firearm is checked out and OKed by a qualified gunsmith before firing.
This is what I do when I look at revolvers. Others may be able to add their experience, especially as far as semi-autos are concerned.
1. How does the overall finish look? It the blueing pristine? Is there any patina/wear? Is it completely rusted out? General patina is quite common on older firearms and is often not a probelm.
2. Is the cylinder tight? With the gun closed and hammer down, does the cylinder wiggle significantly when you try to move it? A very little bit of play isn't bad, but if it has too much play or wiggle, there may be greater concerns. Keep in mind, if the bullet doesn't line up with the barrel, that is BAD. I also pull back the hammer and try the cylinder again. The cylinder should NOT spin when the hammer is pulled back.
3. When pulling back the hammer, make sure it feels and moves properly. The cylinder should turn as you pull back the hammer. NEVER dry fire a gun! To release the hammer, keep your thumb on the spur of the hammer and gently squeese the trigger. Use your thumb to bring the hammer back down easily. This is also a good way to check out the trigger pull.
4. Check the ejector rod and make sure it isn't bent. Open up the gun and let the cylinder open out. I like to spin the cylinder while looking down it to make sure it spins and moves smoothly. Push the ejector rod to make sure it operates correctly. Look in the cylinder bores to make sure there is no rust or spots inside. If you take a white sheet of paper and angle it underneath, the light should reflect upwards, giving you a good idea of how clean it is. One or two minor spots should be cleanable, but major corrosion would be a big concern if you plan to fire the gun.
5. Before closing the cylinder, examine the inside of the frame. Use the same technique to examine the inside of the barrel. You want this and the rifling to be as shiney and smooth as possible. It is recommended that you don't look down the sight end of the barrel to do this, though with longer barrels, it's tricky to view it from the frame end. It can be done, however. Also, with the cylinder out, try the hammer again. The hammer should be locked in place at this point (at least on my S&W).
6. Make sure the cylinder clicks back in place nicely and firmly.
7. If all the above checks out, you should have a pretty good gun in your hands. Again, I always ask (if a gunsmith is on hand or take it to one) to make sure it's safe for firing before ever loading a single bullet in it. Also ask what ammo is best and safest to shoot in it. There may be better and safer choices for older guns.
Other things to consider:
NEVER point the gun at anyone, PERIOD! I usually keep my "aim" to the floor when examining a firearm.
Always ask questions if you have them, no matter how silly you think the question may be. These are NOT toys, so be certain to have every question you have answered. Besides, if you don't know much about guns, most gun shops are happy to educate you.
Again, make sure any older firearm is checked out and OKed by a qualified gunsmith before firing.
This is what I do when I look at revolvers. Others may be able to add their experience, especially as far as semi-autos are concerned.
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Indiana Neri
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Thanks, Rick. I have never purchased a gun before and I wasn't 100% sure if shop owners get mad at the spinning of the cylinder and pulling the trigger and such. You see that in the movies, I just wanted to be sure. Just to be clear, could you elaborate on the paper method - underneath the cylinder? I don't know if the mods want to make this a sticky or something, just so we have future reference for noobies. Thanks again, Rick.
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binkmeisterRick
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Neri, if you've never purchased a gun before, then definitely ask questions. Even if you ask if you can pull back the hammer and check the trigger (without dry firing) and open up the gun, it shows the gun shop folks that you have respect for their merchandise and such. Common courtesy and common sense go a LONG way in gun shops, in my experience. But I wouldn't be afraid to tell them that this is your first gun purchase. Ask them to show you how things work and what they look for when checking out a gun and they should be happy to help. That's what I did and it helped me learn.
As far as the "paper trick," all I'm doing is making sure I'm angling light up the barrel so I can see inside. For instance, if you were to take a paper towel tube and look through it, you would get all sorts of light reflections based on seeing the floor, wall, and other stuff. But if you hold a white sheet of paper underneath it so all you see in that field of vision is the white, then the reflective light will be consistent and allow you to check things out better. Does that make sense? If you have a pen light, you could use that, too.
As far as the "paper trick," all I'm doing is making sure I'm angling light up the barrel so I can see inside. For instance, if you were to take a paper towel tube and look through it, you would get all sorts of light reflections based on seeing the floor, wall, and other stuff. But if you hold a white sheet of paper underneath it so all you see in that field of vision is the white, then the reflective light will be consistent and allow you to check things out better. Does that make sense? If you have a pen light, you could use that, too.
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Indiana Neri
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carebear
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So you want to know how to check out a used revolver?
1) Go to this thread.
2) Read it.
3) Go shopping.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430
1) Go to this thread.
2) Read it.
3) Go shopping.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430
Good advice on this thread. I'll add a couple of things:
With the cylinder open, check the frame beneath the barrell. This is a spot where cracks can appear due to heavy use. If you see a crack, pass on the gun.
Also, if this is your first ever gun purchase, buying a used gun might not be the very best idea, at least not without experienced help (ex., a friend who will go with you). One of the new S&W Model 22's makes a good Indy gun, though expen$ive, and would be under warranty, thereby removing a lot of guesswork.
With the cylinder open, check the frame beneath the barrell. This is a spot where cracks can appear due to heavy use. If you see a crack, pass on the gun.
Also, if this is your first ever gun purchase, buying a used gun might not be the very best idea, at least not without experienced help (ex., a friend who will go with you). One of the new S&W Model 22's makes a good Indy gun, though expen$ive, and would be under warranty, thereby removing a lot of guesswork.