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That creaky leather sound and some other pertinent questions

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 6:42 am
by Robert A. Iger
Hi Wested jacket owners everywhere, I need some questions to be answered. I'm considering to buy a Wested jacket and I'm still deciding which model I will choose... I have already used the search function for some of my other questions, but for the ones below, I haven't found a proper answer.

Here are my questions:

1. I own a cowhide jacket which is terribly creaky and makes sound with my every move. At first I loved it, but now I loathe it. Which type of Wested jacket is the least prone to this creaky sound?

2. Does anyone know a Wested owner living in Belgium or The Netherlands? I'd love to see a live example of this jacket. Any people from Antwerp or the Flanders region... Anyone?

3. Peter Botwright states that any extra requests which deviate from the standard specs will make the garment non exchangable... What does this rule imply exactly? (not being a native English speaker, I'd like to know)

4. If Peter fits under arm gussets (reinforcements) to my future jacket, will perspiration be more difficult? Do any of you Wested owners recommend this?

5. I hear some people recommend goat skin. Others say this type of skin is not available anymore. Anyone knows more about this?

6. What does 'tapered sleeves' mean?

Extra tips and good advice is always welcome! Thanks for reading this.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:43 am
by Bullitt
Hi Robert,

I can only answer some of your questions. Yes, I live in the Netherlands, but I don't have my Wested Raiders yet. It is on order though.

Question 3: I have made extra requests, like smaller pockets, for example. This means that that jacket is custom made for me and cannot be exchanged for a different jacket. You can however send it back for small changes, if you are not happy with the result.

Question 5: I believe the goatskin is no longer available. I ordered an authentic brown lambskin, just like the original.

Question 6: Tapered sleeves mean that the sleeves will have a smaller diameter around the wrist area, than at the shoulders.

I hope this will help you with your search.

Re: That creaky leather sound and some other pertinent quest

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 12:39 pm
by Castor Dioscuri
Since I've gotten 4 Wested's for myself so far, here's my attempt at answering them:

1) I beieve the thinner the leather, the less likelihood it will be creaky. Which means that lambskin, being the thinnest, should creak the least. Of all my jackets, the predistressed lambskin has never creaked, and the authentic lambskin only creaks when gone unused for a long time, but is not so noisy as to be noticeable. Pecards usually fixes creakiness though.

3) Like the Bullitt said, if you order any additional changes to the changes other than the fit (such as changing the pockets, collar size, etc), then you can't return it for another jacket if it doesn't fit you. However, it's been my experience that if Wested makes a mistake when making the jacket, then you CAN return it, regardless.

4) I don't see how it would, considering that without gussets, the jacket will be just as constricting to airflow anyway.\

5) The last we heard, goatskin is still available. However, it only is available in off-the-rack sizes now, and not custom-made.

6) Tapered sleeves simply means more fitting sleeves. A Wested without tapered sleeves would have a wider armhole and sleeve-opening, while tapered sleeves make it tighter (but not body-hugging tight)

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 12:50 pm
by Indiana Kev
I can answer one of these

4) I have the single gusset on my wested and what I refer to as "pitting" is not enhanced. So no the gussets do not cause excessive perspiration. The gussets allow for easier arm movement, which I really enjoy and recommend.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:50 pm
by Robert A. Iger
Bullitt, Castor and Indiana Kev, thanks for your replies so far... They've been very helpful.

When I have decided on the type, I will try to order a custom-made jacket. That means that goat-skin will be out of the question (which will not be a problem, I think).

By the way, which type of leather do you guys advise for a person who is not constantly being dragged behind trucks? I lead a mostly quiet life and my jackets do not see much wear and tear usually.

I can also see from your answers that gussets are the way to go for me right now. Most of my jackets have had a lot of wear and tear under the arm pits so I think this is a wise decision.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:14 pm
by Castor Dioscuri
Depends on what kinda weather you find yourself in, as well as personal preference ;)

The predististressed lambskin gets you the look of a well-worn jacket without having to fall out of a truck. It's the lightest, the softest, and the cheapest of the hides. Best for warm to mild weather. Reminds me of the LC jacket in distressing. The distressing is colored in, not actually distressed. ;)

The authentic lambskin gets you an accurate jacket (color-wise), and is only slightly thicker than a predistressed lamb. It feels like a windbreaker, and is very buttery to the touch. Good all around weather jacket, though maybe not so much for the VERY cold days.

Then there is my current favorite jacket hide: vegetable tanned lamb. It is the most expensive of ALL the Wested hides, and it has the softness of a lamb, while having that old-time thickness feel. You can wear it in cold weather, and it will be just as comfortable in warm weather. The color, though, is more of a russet, reddish-clay color though.

Bear in mind that authentic lamb looks (and unless abused, stays) brand new, while the vegetable tanned lamb gets that worn-in look right from the get go.

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:40 pm
by Robert A. Iger
The average weather in Belgium is generally between 5°C (41°F) and 30°C (86°F), while rain mostly falls in the spring and autumn ("fall" for you US guys).

Seeing the positive comments about lambskin on this forum, I tend to favor this type of hide. I'm not really fond however of the reddish-clay colour, so I think I will pick the authentic lambskin.

By the way, here's the average temperature in Belgium:

Image

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:01 pm
by Kt Templar
1. From my own experience, lamb's low on the creakometer, it may have a bit of squeek when new but after it wears in that pretty much goes away. Very light and comfortable, not much use when it gets less than 0°C Creak rating 2/10.

Don't have a goat, distressed lamb or veg tanned lamb.

Regular Cow creeks a bit even when broken in. Heavy, C2 5/10.

Horse is very creaky, sounds like an old fashioned western lighter than the Cow, but still sustantial CR 9/10.

Novapele cowhide is very soft and doesn't creak at all. Thicker than the lamb but still light. CR 0/10.

2. Can't help on that one.

3. Yup if it makes it non standard, it's yours.

4. The gussets are not a reinforcement, they cut a fillet of leather and insert it between the arm and the body, you don't really get a lot more leather and it is not a double layer. It does give a little more shape and you seem to have a closer fit on the pit. It doesn't affect sweatiness either way. Choosing cotton or satin as the lining has a greater effect here. Cotton seam more breathable.

5. They have a few left over goatskins on the rack, they are not making any more, when there gone, they're gone.

6. The normal sleeves are slightly tapered, you van get more tapered pn request for a tighter fit on the lower arm and wrist. Perfect for computer wielding weanie like me.

Non of the Westeds will keep you warm in 0°C they don't have any quilting, 5°C with a fleece is fine for short periods.

YMMV.

Welcome aboard.

KT :)

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:13 pm
by Robert A. Iger
Kt Templar wrote:1. From my own experience, lamb's low on the creakometer, it may have a bit of squeek when new but after it wears in that pretty much goes away. Very light and comfortable, not much use when it gets less than 0°C Creak rating 2/10.

Don't have a goat, distressed lamb or veg tanned lamb.

Regular Cow creeks a bit even when broken in. Heavy, C2 5/10.

Horse is very creaky, sounds like an old fashioned western lighter than the Cow, but still sustantial CR 9/10.

Novapele cowhide is very soft and doesn't creak at all. Thicker than the lamb but still light. CR 0/10.
Okay, this is very good material to make a decision with. I think I'll go for authentic lambskin.
Kt Templar wrote:3. Yup if it makes it non standard, it's yours.
As in not refundable too?
Kt Templar wrote:4. The gussets are not a reinforcement, they cut a fillet of leather and insert it between the arm and the body, you don't really get a lot more leather and it is not a double layer. It does give a little more shape and you seem to have a closer fit on the pit. It doesn't affect sweatiness either way. Choosing cotton or satin as the lining has a greater effect here. Cotton seam more breathable.
Interesting. I didn't notice the difference in meaning so thanks for explaining. For lining, I will choose a mix of cotton for the largest part and satin for the sleeves.
Kt Templar wrote:5. They have a few left over goatskins on the rack, they are not making any more, when there gone, they're gone.
Okay, that means I can strike goatskin off the list.
Kt Templar wrote:6. The normal sleeves are slightly tapered, you van get more tapered pn request for a tighter fit on the lower arm and wrist. Perfect for computer wielding weanie like me.
I think I'll stay with the regular tapering. I will however specify my collar size, because my neck is a little bit thicker than the usual size.
Kt Templar wrote:Non of the Westeds will keep you warm in 0°C they don't have any quilting, 5°C with a fleece is fine for short periods.
Belgium rarely sees snow or below-zero temperatures. No worries there.
Kt Templar wrote:YMMV.

Welcome aboard.

KT :)
Thanks!

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:27 pm
by VP
So which Wested leathers are currently available, and which of them have special charges?

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:41 pm
by Robert A. Iger
VP wrote:So which Wested leathers are currently available, and which of them have special charges?
As far as I know only cow, horse and lamb.

By the way, is Pecard available in Belgium?