Club Obi Wan

I think we need a new hatter to step up to the plate here. And you can learn the craft by doing it the way that I did it. Reblocking.

Several years ago, I had reverse engineered myself a Raiders block in my size. At that time, I was like many here and owned a huge Indy hat collection, several Federations, several Deluxe Federations, a few Kepplers, several Optimos and numerous vintage Stetsons, Borsalinos, Knoxes, and Cavanaghs. I must have blocked and reblocked all of those hats many times as I was learning what to do, and what not to do. I was never much of a tailor, and had to fall back on the limited sewing skills I learned while being in the Boy Scouts. But, with my vast collection, I finally got proficient enough to offer my services, for free, to the brave guys here who had the intestinal fortitude to trust me with their hats. So, thanks Rick5150!!! (no matter it was a hat you thought you had ruined by placing it in the washing machine!!! ) Of course our buddy Michaelson was one of those early "trusting souls" too.

But, soon I was reblocking scores of hats and I honed my skills as time went on. And it cost the guys here, nothing but the shipping charge back. Heck, a few times, I even paid that myself.

So, my advice is this. If we have any budding hatters here, I suggest you did as I did. It would serve two purposes. It would give you something that you cannot buy, and that is hands on experience. Secondly, it would be a great service to the COW members. As soon as you felt you were good enough, you could charge for the service, and that is a service that is needed here with most of our hatters being snowed under. It is only a small step from reblocking to making hats. Fedora

you know i have always toy'd around with that idea for a while now....just to shape my existing inventory of hats of course.

what are the major peices of equipment to get started aside from the hat block, flange, iron and sewing materials?

what are the major peices of equipment to get started aside from the hat block, flange, iron and sewing materials?

Get a good iron, a real heavy one. Since they don't seem to make irons these days that are heavy, and none seem to get hot enough, go and shop ebay for a vintage iron. I picked up a brand new Jackson brand, made in the 50's still in the box for 4.95 and she is a great one. Can't buy em like that anymore. I am currently watching ebay for a couple more as spares. I was right in the middle of a very large order recently when my 1940's dry iron went belly up. So, I go and buy a high dollar brand new iron to discover it did not get hot enough!!! And it was as light a a feather. I then learned something very odd. New irons are not the best to use for hatmaking. So, I go to ebay and lucked up. The iron cost me 4.95 but since I had to have it FAST, I talked the seller into overnighting it to me. The postage cost way more than what I paid for the iron, but it is worth every penny.

Other than a good heavy dry iron, you will need a hatters sponge. A hatters sponge is nothing but a piece of sheepskin with the wool still on it. Nothing else can replace this sort of sponge for hatmaking. I buy them by the pound as you will wear one out if you make alot of hats.

You will need a hatters cord to tie the hats off while on the block, if you do any resizing. And sandpaper, from 220 to 2000, just depending upon the felt being worked. And thats about it for reblocking. Fedora

I'd like a reblocker in Europe with a charge less than half of the price of a new Fed Regular.

Fedora wrote:But, with my vast collection, I finally got proficient enough to offer my services, for free, to the brave guys here who had the intestinal fortitude to trust me with their hats. So, thanks Rick5150!!! (no matter it was a hat you thought you had ruined by placing it in the washing machine!!! )

LOL. As my favorite Vulcan once said, "The needs of the many outweight the needs of the few ...or the one."

As you know, I have never been shy about putting my hats through various situations to see what they can take. Now I have the knowledge (from experience rather than heresay) about which hat is best for me and why.

For those who do not know, Steve worked miracles on many hats, not just the one that I washed. The Federations & Federation Deluxes speak for themselves, but the Akubra Boss, the Optimos, Stetsons and whatever hat I could find on ebay in my size got sent to Steve and came back looking like an Indy hat. One of my all time favorites for reasons that I cannot determine was an Akubra Snowy River. That hat just had a certain look to it.

In the end, your free service resulted in your learning a trade which paid off handsomely for all of us. I only wish I had such a rewarding hobby that I could turn it into a business.

You sound as if you are getting ready to pass the torch...

Fedora,

I know I'm probably not the sort of member you're really aiming at (being such a green newbie - I don't even have my first "proper" hat yet) but I'm well up for the challenge of having a go, since I already really enjoy working with felt. I've already got used to marking up and trimming brims (no big deal I know), and made a few different bands for my hat, so my stitching is getting fairly reliable. I'd say that my main strength is a genuine interest, and a relatively good mind for shapes, if you know what I mean - I've played around with my existing hat a bit (a bit too much, in fact), and I'm getting the idea how the hat shape works.

My problem is that I've been scouting about for blocks and flanges, and am beginning to think that the only way I can really do it is to make one them myself. The biggest problem with that is knowing what shape to work to. I'd start with a 58, obviously, so I could try things on my existing hat, and any future hats of my own. I think learning on my own hats would be a good start before anybody else got involved.

If anybody had the dimensions for a 58 block that they were willing to share, that would really help. I know that the really accurate ones are a closely-guarded secret, and quite rightly so, but any less classified blocks of roughly the right shape would be a start.

Any aspect of the building that I can't do myself I have a guy who can do it for me.

Wow. Who am I to be speaking up? I don't even have a decent hat yet, and I've only been here a few weeks. Maybe you should forget I spoke.

rick5150 wrote: One of my all time favorites for reasons that I cannot determine was an Akubra Snowy River. That hat just had a certain look to it.

Sure does!
Best hat ever.
Its still hanging in there. It's what, maybe more than 7 years old?
It's the hat in my avatar.

See, that hat looks great! The only reason I sold it was the color was unbecoming on me. Fits you quite well though. Glad you are still enjoying it.

I always enjoy learning new things! I respect hatmakers for their ability and patience- it takes a lot of hard work to make a good hat!

fatwoul wrote:If anybody had the dimensions for a 58 block that they were willing to share, that would really help. I know that the really accurate ones are a closely-guarded secret, and quite rightly so, but any less classified blocks of roughly the right shape would be a start.

It is not a secret at all. Just do a search for Lamode. That is the person that makes Fedoras custom Raiders block. Steve was kind enough to not only tell us where he has them made, but gave the guy the okay to sell them to us. All you have to do, is order one and pay for it.

I would love to get into hat making. Is there books i can buy?

Fedora wrote: Of course our buddy Michaelson was one of those early "trusting souls" too.

I'd do it again in a second, old friend.

HIGH regards! Michaelson

Bufflehead Jones wrote:It is not a secret at all. Just do a search for Lamode. That is the person that makes Fedoras custom Raiders block. Steve was kind enough to not only tell us where he has them made, but gave the guy the okay to sell them to us. All you have to do, is order one and pay for it.

Aha OK. That helps a lot. Thanks.

I've thought about it, but I need money to invest in the project. I literally have no room to work, so I'd need to rent space. I saw this tiny commercial building in town up for rent, and I though; Hey, I could open a hat shop! Then I remembered that I needed a job to get money to start the business (which I have no clue how to run). So, I'm still just thinking about it. I hate debt, so I can't bring myself to get a loan.

I'm tempted sometimes to try to talk an old hat-store owner I met into showing me what he knows, but I feel like I'd be taking advantage of him somehow.

Chewbacca Jones wrote:I've thought about it, but I need money to invest in the project. I literally have no room to work, so I'd need to rent space. I saw this tiny commercial building in town up for rent, and I though; Hey, I could open a hat shop! Then I remembered that I needed a job to get money to start the business (which I have no clue how to run). So, I'm still just thinking about it. I hate debt, so I can't bring myself to get a loan.

I'm tempted sometimes to try to talk an old hat-store owner I met into showing me what he knows, but I feel like I'd be taking advantage of him somehow.

For me it would really be a hobby thing, because by trade I am a photographer. I've just emailed Richard at Lamode, and a friend of mine from my old college might be able to help advise me (they have a fashion department with some old gear lying about).

RobbyT43 wrote:I always enjoy learning new things! I respect hatmakers for their ability and patience- it takes a lot of hard work to make a good hat!

I agree completely.

Fedora:

Not to be presumptuous, "Is this a start?" PB Custom, last night.


PB Custom, this morning: Front; Side; Back.





I understand reblocking is not reshaping. To do the reblocking job right, how many blocks are needed? Of course, thank you for the tool to do this little bit!

Sincerely,

Hey Fedora,

I have wanted to try my hand for some time at making hats. I never really wanted to mass produce them but to simply make some for myself and have fun doing it.

The problem I suspect is (and it seemed to be the case when I sort of looked into it) is the same problem I had when I did make-up FX for movies. Unless you're buying in bulk, it's simply not cost effective to get into such things.

Tracking down materials (such as felt, ribbons, liners, etc.) doesn't seem like the easiest of tasks to begin with, but if you actually find them, most places aren't going just sell you one or two felts I suspect.

I suppose the point of my post is. I would love to try my hand at making hats, as I am sure many others are here, but simply don't have the time/money to track down the materials.

So with that said, would you (or any other hat makers out there) be willing to sell "packages" to get us started? I am thinking perhaps for roughly the same cost as you get your materials for, people could place orders that would include ribbon, felt, liner materal, leather sweat etc....then it would just be a matter of taking the materials and tracking down the information on what to do with it.

Also.....

I have two side notes. First, I am still lovin my three Adventurebilts (two Indy's one Bogart).

Secondly...

Fedora, from what I can tell, you have been amazing with sharing your knowledge of hatmaking and such in many different places. I personally think that with the amount of knowledge you have, it deserves to have a place 100% dedicated to your knowledge.

I would like to propose the idea of making a website for you, where you have the ability to log in and add/edit information/photos as you see fit. I work as a web designer/graphic artist so I have no problem getting it set up for you. Perhaps if you were interested we could exchange time/product instead of money?

Anyway, this probably might have been better in a PM, but I'm on a tangent here so...

The problem I suspect is (and it seemed to be the case when I sort of looked into it) is the same problem I had when I did make-up FX for movies. Unless you're buying in bulk, it's simply not cost effective to get into such things.

Yes, that is the major problem of jump starting making hats. But reblocking, and learning the craft by doing this isn't very expensive as a hobby. All I started out with was one handmade Raiders block, in my size. I reblocked alot of hats with that one block, but of course you had to wear my size to take advantage of it. I gradually added some other blocks in the popular sizes, 7 1/8 thru 7 3/8. But to go full tilt into hatmaking is kinda costly. Heck, a new brim rounding jack is 750 bucks!! Yikes! I was lucky enough to find one on ebay for 20 bucks, in pristine condition and made in the 40's. You can't wear one out, that is for sure. I really shopped ebay for years on hatters tools, and still do. I just bought a vintage heated hat strether and paid a bit over 300 bucks for it. But, it is the kind that mushroom out on the top, and my other one did not do that. I felt like I could use it, and it looks cool bolteed down to my hatters bench, next to the vintage initial stamping machine. You can tie up alot of money in hat equipment unless you watch ebay religiously. I just bought 5 or 6 vintage blocks in shapes that I don't have. Never know when you will need one for a none Indy fedora. And where I used to get blocks for 10 bucks, I am now paying sometimes 10 times that for vintage one piece poplar hat blocks. But, you can take one say, a number 100 block and have it replicated in all the sizes if you ever need to do so. But you gotta have an original first. So, I tend to try and buy up the numbers I don't have, or numbers I have never heard of. I have one hat block that has no number, and is simply marked "fedora". Weird.

I appreciate the offer on the site and stuff Crazylegs, but man, I just don't have the time. Basically the hatmaking deal takes up all of my time, or most of it. To fit other things in now is impossible due to only 168 hours being in one week. I need more time. Where can I buy that at? Online? Fedora

Fedora:

Question, would a "master hatter," be willing to provide some detailed steps on reblocking? Or, is that info in the threads?

Sincerely,

Question, would a "master hatter," be willing to provide some detailed steps on reblocking? Or, is that info in the threads?

I don't know any master hatters, but a regular hatter would tell you, well, some of them. But that info is here somewhere. Pretty simple stuff too. Don't be intimidated by hatmaking. It is an easy craft to learn, if you have an eye for it. But it takes alot of practice to get to where you can sell what you make. YOu have to hone your skills, and then you will find that with time, you just get better and better. I look back on my real early hats and shudder. But, at the time, I thought I was doing pretty good. But, time and experience tends to make you notice the small things. And the small things are important. You get to a point where you pay attention to those small details, that went unnoticed when you first started.

For anyone wanting to learn the craft, pick up the Scientific Hatmaking Book, printed back in 1919. It is essential and will save you lots of time. I wish I would have had one when I first started. I had to find out the hard way, by messing up hats. Fedora

I have no problem reblocking - it's the durned sewing of the sweat that drives me up the wall and has kept me from re-doing any of my hats lately...but come winter time I will probably start again.

It's funny - I can sew ribbons all day long, but the sweats kill my fingers and my patience

Fedora wrote:For anyone wanting to learn the craft, pick up the Scientific Hatmaking Book, printed back in 1919. It is essential and will save you lots of time. I wish I would have had one when I first started. I had to find out the hard way, by messing up hats. Fedora

What's more, it's now possible to find a good hardbound reprint of the book, whereas some of us have a small run spiral bound copy of the book when it was near impossible to find. It's an excellent book and resource, for sure.

Something else to consider is finding beater hats in thrift stores or on eBay. If you have a decent block, look for hats in your size which need definite help. They're great to experiement on and you should be able to get them pretty cheap. That way you won't feel so bad about messing up the hats if you do and will feel al the more proud if you make something good out of them. I finally got up the courage to sew in my first sweat not so long ago using an existing sweat I pulled from another beater hat. Man, it's the ugliest job you ever saw, but it works! You gotta keep at it, though, to get any better.

Fedora wrote:For anyone wanting to learn the craft, pick up the Scientific Hatmaking Book, printed back in 1919.

binkmeisterRick wrote: What's more, it's now possible to find a good hardbound reprint of the book, whereas some of us have a small run spiral bound copy of the book when it was near impossible to find. It's an excellent book and resource, for sure.

Just saw the book, on E-bay. $5.00 less than the website price.

Sincerely,

binkmeisterRick wrote: Something else to consider is finding beater hats in thrift stores or on eBay.

Forget thrift stores. Go shop your local Burlington Coat Factory.
Sure, they're usually horrible colors... and only come in small medium and large, but they always have a huge brim but they can be the base for some incredible hats.

Dalexs

Sadly funding is lacking in my case, otherwise I would gladly take up the challenge.

I have always been creative, and would love to venture into new territory.

I mean if I can solder a 2mm x 1mm electronic component back onto a cell phone motherboard by hand, I can crease a hat.