Club Obi Wan

Here's the measurements of my latest SA Wested which didn't fit.
All measurements in cm.






I have now the following options for a SA jacket and trying to choose between

1. Buy 80s fit, same as my previous but add 1 inch length. (I fear that the result maybe awkward).

2. Buy 80s fit, same as my previous but add 1 inch length and make the waist equal to that of the standard cut. (also maybe awkward)

3. Buy standard cut with sleeves from 80s cut.

4. Buy 80s fit size 42 (I wear 40) with sleeve length of 40.

I really don't know what to do.
You can vote in the poll to help me.

It's really hard to vote on this. PLATON could you maybe post a picture of you wearing a wested? ^^
IMO the sleeve length should match the length of the jacket. So the jacket would need an extra inch in the length. I don't know your arm size but I have quite small arms so I always order extra tappered sleeves.
May this picture will help:
http://www.toddscostumes.com/indy/indyjacketlength.htm

But this all depends on your own body measurements. But this worked for me! I've ordered a 42 Long with standard 42 length sleeves (24.75 inch)

Much regards

orb

Thanks for posting your measurements, Platon - I've made a note. I can't help you with advice. Wouldn't Peter be your best bet for advice here?

PS -Platon - do you reckon you can guess the measurements of the LC pocket as it appears in the Smithsonian? The flap looks huge, or is this an optical illusion?

Cheers - CM

One more question Platon. The flap... is it wider than the pocket and if so what does it measure?

Cheers - Chris

PLATON, I am not sure how to answer this. Exactly how was the original jacket too small for you? Body length? Do you have pictures of you wearing it? I would add an inch in the body front. And keep me in mind if this one does not fit

rick5150, the jacket was tight in the body and short.

The funny thing is that it is the same length as my standard 40R. I concluded that it's tightness is causing a ride up. Indeed, when I was wearing it, the distance from bottom of jacket to bottom of sleeves was greater than what it is when I wear the 40R standard cut.

I fear that if I buy the same but 1 inch longer, it will still be tight and longer and will look more like a TOD jacket.

By trial and error I have concluded that the looks of the 80s fit jacket are far apart from what we see in the screen.

My standard Wested fits me nicely. My only complaint about its fit is that the leather is corrugated under my arms. I would think that a smaller size side panel coupled with shallow pleat depth would solve the problem.

That, and also a little narrower sleeves.

just order the same specs as before in a 42 reg with '80s fit...

C3

Here is how the jacket was worn (right pic). Edited with photoshop to appear longer (left pic)




It should be around 2 inches lengthened, maybe 2 1/2.

i think the original looked fine. the tail of the jacket should just creep over the pocket flaps....which means that the pocket flaps would be exposed with any shrugging or movement of the jacket.

the photoshop version looks too long to be accurate as the tail of that jacket would cover up the pocket flaps entirely....even when you shrug.....i could be wrong as i cannot see clearly where your pant pockets are. thats the way i gauge the length of my jackets.

I think that the original looks more like a vest.

Platon

Is your older Wested a standard or '80s fit? getting a new one in std fit might be the ticket... I have never thought that Indy's jacket looked like an '80s fit anyway! It was hanging on him in raiders. I could see the TOD jacket as being an '80s fit, but not raiders or LC.

C3

Platon

Is your older Wested a standard or '80s fit? getting a new one in std fit might be the ticket... I have never thought that Indy's jacket looked like an '80s fit anyway! It was hanging on him in raiders. I could see the TOD jacket as being an '80s fit, but not raiders or LC.

C3

I own a standard off the rack Wested 40R. It fits well but didn't have all the screen accurate features, so I ordered one with the features and 80s fit.

I also strongly believe that the Raiders jacket doesn't look anything like the 80s fit as we know it.

The only thing that I have to admit is that Ford's jacket had narrower sleeves than the standard cut of Wested.

So, I guess that the answer for the perfect jacket is to get the standard cut with the 80s fit sleeves.

I am still considering though.

If you're looking for a longer body, why not just order a TOD jacket?

i'm very skeptical that wested can provide a standard jacket with 80's cut sleeves as they missed installing 'tappered sleeves' on both my standard and custom order.

My recommendation is to submit your measurements on a detailed sheet that includes drawings of how the measurements were taken. You could find one of those in the web and then modify it. That way there shouldn't be any confusion as to what you meant by arm length, shoulder width etc. Then you could specify 80s or regular cut and Peter will be able to take care of the rest.

SD

IMHO you should only increase the length by 3 cm. It doesn't look that short. Over 2 inches will look strange.

Platon, looking at the two pics, the original and the photoshopped, I see more of an inch, not a 2 inch difference. But yeah, I agree with you, I would get it longer.

The problem with total screen accuracy is that few people here have the same dimensions and proportions as Ford. For example, Platon, your arms could be longer in proportion to your body, than Ford's to his.

Torso lengths also have to be considered.

Regarding sleeves - the sleeves on screen do look more tapered or narrower, don't they? Maybe even higher armholes.

milesfides, yes you 're right. 2 inches is too much. Maybe 1.5 is the deal (4cm).

The problem with total screen accuracy is that few people here have the same dimensions and proportions as Ford. For example, Platon, your arms could be longer in proportion to your body, than Ford's to his.

I don't have those problems. When I buy Versace and Dolce & Gabbana shirts they fit me like they were made for me. It's because the Italians know their ####.

It's all a matter of design.

Ford's sleeves are indeed narrower (I doubt they are tapered). Regarding higher armholes, I guess the highest you can go is with 80s fit which ain't much difference than the standard cut.

I actually think your un-photo-shopped jacket looks good. Like you, I'm happy with the fit of my Wested other than I wish the arms were a bit snugger at the top.

PLATON be careful with too narrow sleeves. Because you may end up with a women style leather jacket
If your jacket starts to wrinkle in the sleeves it will look much more tapered! My horsehide Wested had the same sleeves diameter as my lambtouch but the horsehide haven't start to wrinkle so I always thought that my sleeves and the sleeve opening are too big! On the picture your Sleeves looks fine to me!

Much regards

orb

You know, back to the armholes - I think they're too big in general. For OTR, it makes sense since manufacturers want to fit the lowest (or widest) common denominator. Thus, armholes are bigger, which actually limits mobility and contributes to the body of the jacket pulling with the sleeve.

In my opinion, the armholes should be cut higher, and mobility/comfort should be achieved with the gussets.

Overall, that creates the screen look to me, a trim silhouette and a jacket body that remains on the body instead of riding up due to sleeve movement.

I think the screen caps confirm that as well.

Although this is a temple jacket, you can see how high the armhole is and how narrow the sleeve is. Compare the screen pic with the customer pics.

In my opinion, the armholes should be cut higher, and mobility/comfort should be achieved with the gussets.

I agree completely. One thing I've noticed with my USW jacket is that with the wider (tapered) sleeves, when I swing my arms while walking, the inside of the sleeve catches the back of the pocket flaps on the forward swing. Other than that, the jacket fits perfectly so it's not a fit issue.

1. Buy 80s fit, same as my previous but add 1 inch length. (I fear that the result maybe awkward).

2. Buy 80s fit, same as my previous but add 1 inch length and make the waist equal to that of the standard cut. (also maybe awkward)

3. Buy standard cut with sleeves from 80s cut.

4. Buy 80s fit size 42 (I wear 40) with sleeve length of 40.

Just want to add one more option here

No 5. Buy 80s fit size 42 with sleeve length and shoulder size of 40.

Peter I see you are here, please read this thread.