Since I own both hats like some others, and since I make the regular AB, I will tell you what the differences are. Marc seems to be making hats tonight.
Both hats are made from pure beaver fur. Mine is made in the USA and Marc's is make in Portugal who has a reputation as making the world's finest dress felt today, 2007. And you pay for it, if you are a hatter, because their prices are higher than what USA felt is.
In addition to the pure beaver fur used, the AB Deluxe that Marc makes used a special run of felt, made to Marc's specs. He has, I think, 20 per cent more fur added to each of his bodies, that brings them up to 160 grams at the raw body weight. The regular AB that I make uses a 120 gram body. Marc also has the bodymaker to add a water repellant treament during the felting process so the treatment is actually inside the felt itself. That is something I never heard of, until Marc told me about it. But, he is having that done, to make the already water repellant beaver fur, even more water repellant. I treat all of my hats with a water repellant treatment, but it is a topical application, and has to be repeated by the owner. Marcs felt should never need any extra at all because it is inside the felt.
Sweatbands. I use a readily available sweat, made by F and S in St Joe Mo. Marc's stock sweat is a goatskin sweat that he had made special for him. He also offers a very exclusive Roo hide sweat, as an option. He buys the Roo hide, and sends it to his sweatband maker to use to make his sweats.
We use the same HJ ribbon.
Liners. I use a USA liner, made in Texas by a family run business. Marc also uses a USA liner, but from another supplier, and his liners are a thicker, pure bridal satin liner. Mine have a gold outline of the Staff of Ra, and Marc's has a multi colored Staff of Ra Headpiece, in burgundy and gold.
Our blocks are very close in shape, with each of our blocks being what each of us think the original was. But, we both worked off of the same diagrams that we exchanged over the years. But there are some very slight differences. Mostly because, I have kept tinkering with mine.
When Marc came onboard with me, he wanted to offer a truly Deluxe version of the regular AB. I mean, there were things one could do, like having the felt custom made, and the sweats custom made. And those two things are the most costly things that go into any hat. I think he basically said, that if he was gonna make an Indy fedora, he would use the best materials that one could source in the whole world. His hat is truly an international hat, whereas mine are just American made. Well, all except for the ribbon that comes from the UK. And, I would not be using that if a super dark brown was available in the USA.
That ribbon is just too expensive, and way out of line with what ribbon should cost!! Modern grosgrain can be had in the USA for less than a buck a yard. The UK ribbon is 10 times that price. But, it is the right color, and the right width-39mm, and no one else besides HJ can get it. Or I should say, no one else knows the source!!
And we ain't saying.
(you should be proud of me Marc!!
)
I am predjudiced, but I still think the AB and the AB Deluxe are the biggest bang for the buck in pure beaver hats today. While Marc's prices are high, rest assured that if you could buy what he is selling from any other established hatter, you would pay a grand, if they kept their same margins. Marc makes less on each hat he sells, than I do.
Trust me, I know what he is paying for his materials.
Now, the big question is. Which one will last longer? I am afraid I won't be around when that question can finally be answered. I figure both hats will still be in wearable condition when I take my dirt nap.
Fedora
Let your mind wander...
Art and I kinda, sorta talked about this a couple years ago. He isn't interested in making Indy fedoras and he has not studied the hat, and likes to be more creative in his hatmaking, drawing on the vintage hat styles. And I really have no interest in making other styles of hats, although I do so occasionally. So, he would probably make an Indy fedora, and I would make another style, but Art's business and mine are seeking different markets. I guess that is how you would say it, if you were being busniess like about it. Simpler said, and more to the point, I just like the Raiders fedora, and that is all I care about-period. 