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JP Designs Versus...

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:26 pm
by Chewbacca Jones
Welcome to the Indiana Jones fedora death match! The challenger; JP Designs rabbit fur felt Indy hat. This particular example is the “holiday special” (which mean his other rabbit felts will be better), and arrived open crowned with an unshaped brim.
The first opponent, that venerable stand-by starter Indy hat, the Akubra Federation. Specifically, this Federation is the standard version, which comes open crowned, and is also made of rabbit fur felt.
Future posts to this thread will pit the JPD against other popular contenders.

The Basics; Out of the box, both hats have similar dimensions, though not exact. However, they look very much the same before being shaped (boneheaded me, I forgot to take of picture of them side by side). The most profound difference is color. The JPD is a much truer brown than Akubra’s “mid-brown”. It matches a swatch I have from another hatter, which was called “chocolate”. The overall block looks the same… at least at first.

The Felt; The JPD feels slightly thicker than the Akubra, and the crown is a bit stiff in a way I haven’t felt before. After playing with it a while, it softened up nicely, though. The Akubra’s crown is “stiff” in a cardboardy kind of way, while the JPD is more “hard”. I can’t really explain it. Anyway, the brim of the JPD is surprisingly soft and very cooperative. The Akubra brim is a bit too stiff for my liking when knew. I like how the Akubra felt ages… time will tell on the JPD. The finish on the JPD is also smoother, which I like very much. I would say that the felt quality is about equal, but JPD pulls ahead because of the finish.

Bashing; The Akubra can be dry bashed fairly easily, but I find that steam or water is needed to get the brim to cooperate. And if you want the sharper features of the Indy bash “just so” you’ll need some water for that, too. (Just be sure to use spring or distilled water to avoid discolorations). The JPD brim seems to need a little water to hold right, but I find that the sides respond better to the Indy shape than the Akubra does. The JPD crown takes a little muscle, but it shapes nicely. What I find most interesting about the JPD is that the crown almost goes into an Indy bash on it’s own, including some of the quirky aspects of the Raiders hat. Yet, it looks good with other bashes. I decided on an un-turned general Indy bash, which to my eyes makes a very natural Last Crusade hat. We’ve all seen how the Akubra looks as an Indy hat. Not bad, it does the job. However, there is something about the JPD that is subtly different and just makes a better Indy, be it Raiders or whatever. It just seems to LIKE being an Indy hat. I own several Akubra Feds, and I’ve never kept any with an Indy bash because they never quite satisfy me. The JPD does.

Extras; I really think the small detail can make or break a hat, so here are some noteworthy details. I love JP’s liner because it’s so personal with the crest, and my name sewn in and everything. It adds a touch that really gives the hat some appeal. Also, I have to say, I like the bow on the JPD ribbon the best. Don’t know if it’s screen accurate, but it has personality that most fedora bows don’t have. Finally, with the single-digit weather we’ve had lately (and the wind), I can say that both hats are quite warm. However, the JP felt’s thickness and heavier liner combine to make a titan against the cold winds.

The Verdict; The Akubra and the JPD are close rivals, but I have to say that JPD’s hat impresses me more in certain key areas. First, knowing that Jimmy has a better rabbit felt tells me that his hats are capable of being higher in quality. The JPD shows versatility and accuracy that the Akubra lacks, and the color is far better. The JPD just looks the part. It doesn’t have to be an Indy hat, but it is one of the best I’ve seen. Basically, the JPD is what I imagined the Federation DELUXE would be. From what I’ve heard of the Fed Deluxe, I would have been disappointed.

For your viewing pleasure, the Pictures;
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/michaelgarc ... 2388638550

Next Up, JPD takes on the Keppler!

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:36 pm
by GCR
Hey Chewie, that JPD looks GREAT!!! I can hardly wait to get mine. Based on your review and photos, it looks like the JPD is shaping up to be a top contender in the "Under $150" category. Personally, if the JPD had been around a few years back, I would have gone with it in a heartbeat instead of getting the Federation Deluxe. And I really love my Fed Deluxe...but given the option of a custom hat or a factory hat (even a really nice one like the Akubra) with very little difference in price between the two, I think I'd go with the custom hat. Congratulations again, Chewie, that hat looks great!

-GCR

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:57 pm
by Indiana G
nice work chewie! beautiful hat! enjoy buddy.

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:03 pm
by Chiliana Jones
nice! :D




Rio

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 12:12 pm
by blade runner
Nice hats, chewie! I love the chocolate color of the JPD compared to the federation. On the other hand, it may just be my taste, but I really like the bash you have on the fed. The way the top of the pinch comes down farther than usual and the side bashes seem to curve up -- it seems like it makes the hat look less tall. I know my fed seems a little too tall on me. Your fed bash may be a little less of the classic Indy style, but I would like to get mine to look like that. I think I'll have to try using come water, because every time I try to push the pinch down it comes back up. Anyway, appreciate the comparison and review.

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 3:35 pm
by kobol
Great review & pics.
I currently have a JPD, but your review & pics helped answer questions I had about the Federation.
Thanks.

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:27 pm
by Chewbacca Jones
blade runner wrote: it may just be my taste, but I really like the bash you have on the fed. The way the top of the pinch comes down farther than usual and the side bashes seem to curve up -- it seems like it makes the hat look less tall. I know my fed seems a little too tall on me. Your fed bash may be a little less of the classic Indy style, but I would like to get mine to look like that. I think I'll have to try using come water, because every time I try to push the pinch down it comes back up.
BR; My fed's lower crown look does come partly from the lower pinch, but that's not all. That Fed is actually bashed with a c-crown that I quickly modified (dry) to a center crease for a better visual comparison. The high aching side dents and deep creasing came from getting soaked in a rainstorm, so water is a good way to get that look. However, that sharp look is not easy to get with a center dent. Also, when you wet the front pinch and shape it, just press down with your pinky gently to where you want it and hold it that way for about 5 minutes. Just be sure you want it, because it can be hard to un-do if you don't like it.
I'l try to get some pictures of the Fed in it's usual bash, so you can really see what I did with it.
And remember; spring or distilled water is best!
Chewie

Part 2

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:47 am
by Chewbacca Jones
Time for the second installment of the Indy Hat death match! The challenger, as you know, is the JP Designs rabbit fur felt Indy hat, fully described in the first post of this thread.
Our next opponent is the “How long did it take to get it!?!” Keppler. I’ve read in several places that the Keppler is a beaver/rabbit blend, but the one I have is marked “6 XXXXXX Beaver”… whatever that means. This example of the Keppler is second hand but almost new in condition. It came to me bashed, which was how Keppler bashed it.

The Basics; Out of the box, these two hats are two very different animals. The cut, the block, everything. As with the Federation, the most noticable difference is color. The JPD is a nice chocolate brown, while the Keppler is much lighter and redder. The difference is heightened by the Keppler’s black ribbon, which is measures 1 ½” wide to JPD’s 1 5/8” brown ribbon. The Keppler block seems to have more front and rear taper, and the brim is a little narrower than the JPD.

The Felt; Obviously, since the felts are not the same type, the comparison can’t be totally equal, but I’ll try to keep that in mind. The JPD feels slightly thicker than the Keppler. The Keppler started really stiff (brim and crown), but is slowly softening up after much effort. It’s clear that the Keppler is better felt than the JPD rabbit, however I like the JPD felt better. It’s is smoother, and softer. The Keppler felt, despite it’s high quality, is far too stiff, and feels even more like cardboard than the Akubra does when it’s new. Keppler recommends crushing and rumpling the hat to loosen up the felt, which works (gradually). BUT, it leaves light angular crinkles in the crown shape. :x

Bashing; The Keppler came bashed, and my attempts at rebashing it have not been successful. I’m sure that if I really worked at it, I could win the fight, but it seems to want to hold it’s shape, and doesn’t look right in any shape but an Indy bash. The JPD, on the other hand, is much easier to work with and very easy to modify after the initial bash. Plus, it looks good with a non-Indy bash, should you want one. The crease of the Keppler is willing to go very deep, though. Deeper than most other hats seem to like. The Keppler brim is so stubborn, I’m beginning to think it’s a lost cause.
As far as getting “the look”, the JPD and Keppler are both equally suited, but in different ways. The Keppler seems to capture the essence of the Indy hat very much so, even though it’s not screen accurate. The JPD, on the other hand, seems more like the real deal, rather than an close imitator. Of course, since the Keppler is a custom hat, the shape issues may be partly due to the original customer’s tastes. I like the Keppler’s bash, but I wanted to change it a little, yet I have failed numerous times. The JPD is a hat I can have fun with!

Extras; In the small details department, the Raiders front crease on the Keppler is a knock out, visually. Unfortunatelty, that can vary from one basher to the next. And if you don’t get it this way to start with, you might never get it. Again, I prefer the JPD bow, and I don’t care for the black ribbon choice on the Keppler. Maybe if the color of the felt were darker it would work.

The Verdict; JPD rabbit felt against the Keppler beaver felt is a no-brainer. Beaver is simply better than rabbit. But felt alone does not make the hat. Besides, JP Designs offers a beaver felt version! The Keppler is just not my cup of tea, but I’d be an idiot to say it isn’t a good hat. I’d take a Keppler over most other hats, regardless of the Indy hat “hobby”. But I wouldn’t take it over a JPD, even in rabbit felt. Between the horrible wait-time on the Keppler and the fact that the JPD looks more authentic, I think you get more bang for your buck buying a rabbit JPD. Plus, the JPD feels more comfortable on my head. Granted, the Keppler is lighter in weight and warmth, so it would probably be a better hat when the weather warmed up a bit. But I just think the JPD is a better Indy Hat.

For your viewing pleasure, the Pictures;

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/michaelgarc ... 2388792701

Next Up, JPD takes on the reigning champion, the Adventurebilt!

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:11 pm
by Fedora
JPD rabbit felt against the Keppler beaver felt is a no-brainer. Beaver is simply better than rabbit. But felt alone does not make the hat. Besides, JP Designs offers a beaver felt version!
I hate to burst your bubble but both hats are rabbit. The Keppler is a 6x. His earlier offering was 5x. Neither hat contain any beaver. The x system basically means nothing today. The difference between the 5x and 6x is the finish. The factory spends more time on the 6x hats. So, you are comparing rabbit to rabbit.

The next step in comparing should be the taper test. Get both hats wet in the next hard rain you have, let them dry at room temp, and then post pics. That will tell the real story as to how the hat will actually hold up to real world use. Regards, Fedora

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:54 pm
by darthjones
YES - taper test!!!! Muahahahahahaaaaaaa!

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:45 pm
by Chewbacca Jones
I guess what I should have said was "If it is in fact beaver, then obviously the felt is better than rabbit."
As I stated at the beginning of the Keppler show-down, the hat says on it "6 XXXXXX Beaver" whatever that means. I guess I gave the hat the benefit of the doubt that if it says the word "beaver" it will be beaver. Maybe it was the fact that the Keppler was such a thinner felt. At any rate, I just don't like the stiffness or finish job compared to the JPD. Thank you Fedora for pointing out my hasty wording. I'm comforted by the fact that the Keppler is rabbit felt... it makes so much more sense now!

As for the taper test, as much as I'd like to oblige you, I believe that deliberately seeking to soak a hat and see if it tapers is like forcing monkies to chain smoke to see if they get cancer. :x I won't do it on purpose. I choose the Michaelson approach; let the hat live it's life and see what happens. If it gets drenched, I'll report on it. If it doesn't, well that's the way it goes. The "real world test" will be existing in the real world. So, no Darth. Your evil ways will not rule the day this time!

Chewie

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:15 pm
by Abner1925
Yeah, I have to agree that purposely soaking two of your hats to test a theory about tapering would not be the best way to spend you money. :lol: Beaver or rabbit felt, it's not a great plan of action just to be able to say it does or doesn't hold up under those conditions. Nice comparisons too, as these are always very beneficial to making purchase decisions.

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:35 pm
by JPdesign
Basically in the single digit x's you may have as much as 10% beaver. just so they can put it on the sweat.

Jimmy

Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:15 am
by darthjones
So here's the deal then - if ANYONE out here wins the lottery or something like that he does the ULTIMATE hat taper test.

That sound cool?!

Every VALID Indiana Jones hat gets soaked and taper tested.

Going to buy a lotto ticket right now!

Muahahahahahaaaaaa

JP Designs and the Last Crusade

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 10:07 pm
by Chewbacca Jones
Time for the third (and last planned) installment of the Indy Hat death match! The challenger, as you know, is the JP Designs rabbit fur felt Indy hat, fully described in the first post of this thread.
Our third opponent is the “Ultimate Indy Hat”… The Adventurebilt. I have personal experience with two AB’s, both beaver fur felt, both made by Steve “Fedora” Delk. One is about a month old, and was bashed with “the turn” by Steve. The other (which I no longer own) came shaped, but I re-bashed it. If it was turned, it was minimal.

The Basics; In terms of dimensions, these two are almost identical. The brims are a little different, but don’t vary any more than brims normally do within a single brand. The ribbon on the AB is 1 ½” wide, while the JPD ribbon is 1 5/8” and the ribbon colors are different. The AB’s darker and narrower ribbon are more screen accurate. The felt color is also different; the JPD is a nice chocolate brown, while the AB is about a half shade lighter with more red. Both are beautiful colors, and I couldn’t tell you which is most screen accurate for sure. The overall block of these two look different, but after being shaped, the differences are less pronounced.

The Felt; It might not seem fair to compare a “discount” rabbit felt to a 100% beaver felt, but I have to say, the JPD felt holds it’s own. The AB is softer out of the box, and the finish is silky smooth, but the JPD is noticable thicker, which may account for it being stiffer. Plus, the JPD brim starts out nearly as soft as the AB, and the crown is loosening up nicely. I prefer the thinner AB felt, but the JPD has a nice finish for a rabbit felt. So, while the AB’s felt comes out on top, I truly believe that the differences come only from the type of felt used. Both seem to hold off water (minor rains, so far) equally well.

Bashing; The AB I currently have was bashed in a Raiders style, with the turn, but Steve (who really has this down pat). Still, I find it easy to tweak it, and if anything gets stubborn, a tiny bit a water solves the problem. The AB I sold took to a complete reshaping with no problem at all, even the severe front crease, with just some water to help out. I found these bashing experiences similar to that of the JPD. The crown of the JPD was a little more effort, but took to shaping well, especially it’s natural tendancy to almost find an Indy bash on it’s own. I decided on an un-turned general Indy bash for the JPD, which to my eyes makes a very natural Last Crusade hat. As far the Indy “look”, the JPD and AB are equally suited, and much of their initial differences in block become less obvious when shaped. If I wanted a turned Raiders on my JPD, I’m sure I could get one spot-on, because even with the Crusade bash, I can see the similarities with my AB’s Raiders bash. The main difference is the ribbon and bow. The AB’s thinner ribbon gives the crown the illusion of being taller and the bash squares it off more. Thus, the AB makes the better Raiders hat. Aside from that, they both make awesome Indy hats. I particularly like how both take to the “camel humps.”

Extras; For the little details I love so much, the AB matches the JP’s liner with a cool one of it’s own; a Ra Headpiece design, which just makes it SO Indy! I still prefer the bow of the JPD, which I think has more character. The oddest detail is that, even though the JPD is thicker, and has a heavier liner, the AB feels heavier on my head (though not any warmer). Weird.

The Verdict; Honestly, this is a tough choice to make. Putting aside the differences of felt types, these are two fantastic fedoras. The AB is clearly the best Raiders hat. Steve’s experience at making the Indy hat (almost exclusively) shows. Still, JP makes a heck of a competitor. If want a rabbit felt hat, or the wait time and/or price of a beaver felt AB is too much for you to handle, then there is no reason not to get a rabbit felt JPD. The AB is still the best Indy hat, but it doesn’t totally trample the JPD. Not that I’d want to change the JPD. I don’t really want it to be an exact copy of the AB, and the concept of the “perfect Indy hat” is a very subjective one. In terms of a general hat (Indy-ness set aside), I find it impossible to call either the better hat, save for the choice of felt. I have a new favorite rabbit felt hat brand (and I happen to like rabbit). My personal opinion, this match is a draw!

For your viewing pleasure, the Pictures;
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/michaelgarc ... 2389443547

Chewie

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:48 pm
by coronado3
Great reviews and great pics, chewie~

In the JP vs. AB, it appears that the JPD has that slight raiders/lightbulb puffiness where as the AB is very straight and stovepipe-like.

Just a little difference I noticed from your comparrison shots...

Again, great reviews. - Are there any more biggies to review? How about these camptowns? or an Optimo or perhaps the HJ (reg model, AB or magnoli variation)?

Better save your $!

Coronado