Club Obi Wan

Once again Wested has done an amamzing job. I followed agent5's instructions and went off my experience from my first jacket and came up with my ultimate jacket.

My first one was goatskin, this newest one is lambskin. For those that are wondering, and have asked the question a hundred times before, there is a HUGE difference between lambskin and goat IMO. The lamb is much softer, more supple and drapes better. The goat is quite alot stiffer by comparison. The texture of the goatskin is also quite different. It does not look as smooth as lamb (and it isn't). This stiffness kind of detracts from the whole Indy look. After all, most of us are looking for a jacket to break in and look like an old friend. The goat just seems too stiff and would take forever to break in.

For those out there who are conflicted over the decision between lamb and goat... For a jacket that will look like Indy's, go with the lambskin. If you want something more durable then go with goat. I see how the lambskin will take on that worn, adventurer look after a short time. The goat would be more of a dress jacket because it stays looking crisp.

On the subject of 80's versus standard.... My first jacket was a 42" standard goat. The second is a 40", 80's fit, tapered sleeves, lambskin. There are a few other mods along the lines of agent5's instructions but I won't bore you with the details unless you ask for them.

IMO the main difference between 80's fit and standard is the sleeve hole and the sleeve itself. The sleeve hole at the shoulder is smaller and form fits the shoulder better. The standard cut is a baggier shoulder. Also, the body is slightly more form fitting.

And before anyone asks for pics.... I don't have a digital camera available at the moment but I will see about borrowing one in the near future.

Any questions feel free to ask. I will be happy to respond.

congrats on your jacket. I never understood tappered sleeves. All sleeves tapper.

I think when we ask for tapered sleeves, what we actually get is an overall narrower sleeve.

Congrats on ur jacket!

Thanks. I'm selling my first one if anyone is interested. I'm going to post it in the want ads.

BendingOak wrote:congrats on your jacket. I never understood tappered sleeves. All sleeves tapper.

Thats true, but the "tapered" sleeves taper more.

P,

Which size to you really wear -- 38 or 40? I'm wondering how you ordered a more form-fitting jacket AND went down a size & it isn't too tight! I'm wondering because I just received my 80's fit in dk brown goat, and while I couldn't be happier, I was going to order another jacket in a few months time anyway. You've got me thinking that I maybe should go down a size?

~Jace

I wear a 40 regular suit jacket and my actual chest measurement with arms held out to the side is exactly 40". When I ordered my first jacket, most people recommended going a size bigger to accomodate a sweater, extra layer, etc. So I ordered a 42 reg. After wearing it for a while I really started to notice how big the body was and I just decided I wanted a slimmer fitting jacket. I also wanted an 80's fit so that's what I asked for and I gave Wested my chest measurement (40") and all my other special requests and I ended up with a jacket that fits great.

To summarize and hopefully answer your question, an 80's fit will not be drastically smaller or form fitting in the body for the same chest measurement. You will notice the biggest difference in the sleeve hole at the shoulder. It will be smaller than the standard cut. This is what makes it look so "80's".

Jace,

Here's my recommendation to you....

-Don't try to outhink Wested's pattern. That's what I did on the first one and now I am paying for it by having to purchase another one and try to sell the other.

-Read agent5's ultimate screen accurate raiders jacket post very carefully.

-Have a friend/family member measure your chest size while you hold your arms straight out to the sides. That is the proper way to do it. Don't try to measure it yourself because you won't get an accurate measurement.

-If you want the "vintage" or "raiders" look then definately go with the 80's fit. Also, if you are somewhere around a 40" chest and 5'10" tall, check out agent5's ultimate screen accurate raiders post and see what he has to say about pocket size. I went with his pocket measurements and on my frame they look way better than the ones I have on my 42 reg.

Good luck,
Any more questions..go ahead and shoot.

By the way folks, my 42 standard wested is up for sale in the want ads and I will leave it there for a while so COW members can have first crack at it before I put it up on ebay.

Cheers!

P,

I already had the standard cut in lamb, & decided to get the 80's fit in goatskin, & I could be happier with the jacket. I was just wondering if going with a smaller cut would give me more than I already have now. I have a 40" chest & a 30" waist -- for anyone with similar measurements you really should ask for the '80's fit. I fits my frame like a glove!! The biggest problem I had with my standard cut jacket was the amount of extra around the waist -- even with the straps pulled all the way. But with the 80's fit, I don't have to pull the straps super-tight to get it close to my waist! No problems with the new jacket -- the only difference on the next one would possibly be a .5" longer sleeve to compensate for break-in wrinkles & 1" longer in the back length just to have a longer jacket. Nothing wrong with this length, I'd just like to make something different on the next one!!

~Jace

Sorry Jace,

I didn't mean to insult your intelligence. You're an old pro from the sounds of it.

With the mods you described it sounds like your next jacket will be your holy grail of jackets.

Cheers

Pegasus,
No problem, you had no way on knowing what I knew or didn't , & I realize you were just trying to be helpful. I absolutely love this jacket, especially because the goat is so tough! But I think to make the next jacket different though, I may go with the dark brown lambskin -- but I'm definitely getting the 80's fit, the underarm gussets, the tapered sleeves & the shorter straps on the next jacket too. Even though the 80's cut fits me great, I knew that I was still going to be pulling the straps all the way or almost -- so I asked Wested to cut the side straps 2" shorter. I was a bit unsure if what I asked for was really going to work, but it did & I now know how to get the exact fit I want. I'm just going to wait a while to see how this jacket fits once I break it in a bit -- then I'll know if I need to get the sleeves a bit longer next time. Yes, I am now on a quest -- for the more than perfect jacket!