Club Obi Wan

Been lurking for a while, but I finally took the time to register. I have been gathering up as much knowledge as possible for what would make the best coat to suit me. I probably won't be ordering it for a while, it's summer and it'll be 100 degrees till October so I won't be able to wear it, so I'm in no big hurry. In the mean time, I combining everything I've read into a list so there will be no bumbling before I get ready to leave for college. I don't want this to be Indy's jacket, I want it to be mine, so I'm not enamered on having it look exactly like hits. Here is what I have so far, feel free to add any comments on what I should add or take away, or things that are just not plausable. If anything already comes standard, please tell me so I don't request something they are already doing.

Height- 5'10" (177.8 cm)
Chest- 39.5" (100.33 cm)
Sleeve- went to the tailor, they measured, but they didn't write it down
Jacket Size- ???
Style- Raiders (thinking about ToD)
Leather- ???
Lining- Cotton Silesia (does it come in other colors?)
Side Fastener- Rectangular

Rounded Edge on Storm Flap
Nickel Zipper (if possible)
Tapered Sleeves
Tapered Back (so it doesn't flare up I'm told)
X-Box Stitching
Under Arm Gussets
Back Pleat Elastic
Thin Leather Inside Pocket Slit
Thin Leather Inside Pocket Slit on opposite side
Outside Pockets 7.5" (19.05 cm) by 6.25" (15.875 cm) (don't want them big)

Extra Measurements
Overarm- 49" (124.46 cm)
Coat Sleeve Inseam- 16.5" (41.91 cm)
Hip- 44" (111.76 cm)
Waist- 32" (88.9 cm)
Bicep- 15.5" (39.37)
Weight- 205 lbs (93 kg)

The two biggest questions facing me right now is what leather type and what style coat. I know I'm not going with cowhide, I have a brown coat with cow hide and unless it's 15 degrees out, I start sweating. So it looks like I'll be choosing between the lamb or goat. I'm a little apprehensive with the lamb because it is soft, and when something is soft, it is likely to tear easily and it will age too quickly and I'd like to have my jacket for a long time. Goatskin apparently is tough but doesn't drape well. Also, which color looks the best, dark brown or the authentic?

Next, I'm leaning with the Raiders but am also tempted by the Doom jacket. For those enthusiasts out there, I'm not getting both, I know you probably have 10 different Indy jackets, but I'm in college, and can't afford it. Is the only difference between the two and inch difference? I don't want it to feel like a dress, but also don't want it hanging above my belt. Skippy's jacket seems to fit the bill of what I'd like mine to look like.

Should I go with a size 42 jacket so if I add to my chest, I'm going to start working out again, it won't be too snug?

Do I really need the elastic shoulder pleats? I know they are there so they don't begin to look stick out and look like wings, but I've heard if the jacket is short enough, it won't happen.

Any comments, please tell me.

Thanks.

First of all, I am going to assume that you're talking about getting a Wested, because that's what it feels like you're talking about to me. I own two Westeds, so I will answer to the best of my ability based on the fact that I think we're talking Wested here.

I took a tailor's tape measure and did my own measurements for my jacket, which came back wonderfully. I've used the same measurements for both jackets that I have. Some tailors don't want to measure you unless you're going to buy something from them, so that's why I did 'em myself. Let's see what else we've got here...

Height- 5'10" (177.8 cm)
Chest- 39.5" (100.33 cm)
Sleeve- went to the tailor, they measured, but they didn't write it down
Jacket Size- ???
Style- Raiders (thinking about ToD)
Leather- ???
Lining- Cotton Silesia (does it come in other colors?)
Side Fastener- Rectangular

You can leave the "Jacket Size" field blank if you're providing your own measurements. The lining doesn't come in any other colors, as far as I know. The cotton silesia lining is just to imply that the both the sleeves and the body are lined with cotton, as opposed to the usual cotton body/satin sleeve option.

Reading your post, it sounds like you live someplace where the temperatures are either very hot or very cold, no in between. Let me just say this: on a very cold day, your Wested is not going to do anything for you, even if it is an all cotton lining, and that's from personal experience. You'd need to be wearing a good sweater and a scarf underneath for it to be of any real use to you in that kind of weather, and at that point, really, what is the point of wearing the jacket? I would leave my Wested at home and wear something heavier if the temperatures were under 50 degrees Farenheit. If you go out in temperatures lower than 50 degrees wearing just your Wested as an overcoat, heaven help you, because you will freeze.

What I am getting at here, is that you can also order an all satin lining for your jacket. Some people here have done that, and if the night time temperature is rather warm (65 degrees Farenheit +), an all satin lining would probably be your best bet. However, this is what the cotton/satin lining is there for. It's a happy medium, if you will. My first Wested was a lambskin with cotton/satin lining, and does great for your average southern California day.

The only difference between the Temple and Raiders jackets is the 1" difference in length, and that the Temple jackets are usually ordered with dark brown leather instead of authentic brown. Everything else is functionally the same. A Raiders jacket will not hang above your waist, and a Temple jacket will not feel like a dress. I've worn both, and they are just fine.

As for what looks better, dark brown and authentic brown are like those Rorshack tests. People see what they want to see. To some people, they like authentic brown, and some people like dark brown. Personal preference, really. I like the color authentic brown better than dark brown.

Outside Pockets 7.5" (19.05 cm) by 6.25" (15.875 cm) (don't want them big)

I wouldn't be concerned about that. I haven't specified any measurements for the pockets on my jackets, and they have never been too big.

Rounded Edge on Storm Flap
Nickel Zipper (if possible)

These are both standard, I believe. I could take or leave underarm gussets. My original lamb didn't have them, but my goat does. There's really not a huge difference. As for the quality and longevety of those leathers, both will last you a long time. There are members here who've put their lambskin Westeds through h-e-double-hockey-sticks and back, and they are still doin' fine. Neither of the two will keep you warm if it's really cold out, so I'd go with the lamb, personally. Drapes better, and doesn't feel like you're even wearing it. Sometimes, I forget I'm wearing the lambskin jacket, because it just moves and flows so well.

Chest- 39.5" (100.33 cm)

In this instance, I'd recommend doing what I did, which is adding an extra inch to your chest measurements, just to be safe. I did it with both my jackets, and I'm very glad I did.

Extra Measurements
Overarm- 49" (124.46 cm)
Coat Sleeve Inseam- 16.5" (41.91 cm)
Hip- 44" (111.76 cm)
Waist- 32" (88.9 cm)
Bicep- 15.5" (39.37)
Weight- 205 lbs (93 kg)

I'm not sure all those measurements are necessary. I didn't provide them, and my jackets came to me fitting wonderfully right out of the package.

I hope I've been a help. Welcome aboard!

Thanks, forgot to mention I was talking about Wested. I'll probably end up going with the lambskin authentic Raiders jacket. I was wondering about cotton all the way through because I've read that the satin tears easily and doens't last as along as the cotton.

Forgot that I live in Idaho (that state next to the right of Oregon), winters get pretty cold, especially in northern Idaho, but I don't mind. For some reason I don't get as cold as other people despite me being pretty lean, so an under shirt, buttom up, and the jacket would probably do the trick. It's mostly the wind that gets to me.

I'll change my chest measurement to 42". How does the jacket fit the arms? Most jackets and blazers are really tight on me.

The cotton is the best choice for all lined jackets, in my opinion. The all satin choice was a real bother to me, as besides being quite warm, the jacket constantly slid off my shoulders when being worn...especially when the jacket wasn't zipped up. My Wested has the cotton body, satin lined sleeves for ease of pulling on and off long sleeve shirts...but when it gets a bit warm and I'm wearing short sleeves, they tend to stick a bit.

So, I'm a big fan of the all cotton (and it's screen accurate too). It's little more effort to pull over a long sleeve shirt, but not enough to give you heartburn.

You can wear your jacket longer too as the weather warms up. Cotton breathes where the satin tends to insulate more.

Bear in mind....these are just 'unlined' leather jackets when it comes down to the 'warmth' factor. Anything you do to keep warm as the weather cools down (as you 'enjoy' in Idaho!) will require you to layer clothing....so if you plan on wearing that jacket in cold weather...you better factor in sweater room underneath, or you'll be wearing the jacket as the INNER liner with other garments worn OVER your Wested. (not out of the practice either, as that's also done a lot. I've done it myself, and it works fine). You just need to factor that in as you order, or you'll be only giving your Wested a limited wear time in your cold area of the country.

Regards! Michaelson

itismedan wrote:Forgot that I live in Idaho

Isn't that a coincidence! The "personal experience" I was talking about in my first post was gained in Lewiston, ID, whilst wearing my cotton lined authentic brown goat. This was in February, and I'm sure you remember what those temperatures were like! I had to buy a thick sweater after about a day there to put on underneath my Wested, or else I would have been a block of ice pretty darn quick!

Now, I understand the temperatures there are very hot. Like I said, hot or cold, no in between.

Strider wrote:Now, I understand the temperatures there are very hot. Like I said, hot or cold, no in between.

I remember one day is was it the low 50s, the next day in the mid 90s. No consistency.

Sounds like Tennessee this past month.

Regards! Michaelson

Okay, I've been reading around more and apparently Wested stopped using nickel zippers, does anybody know why? I really don't like the brass color, all my watches and knives are on the silver color spectrum, and would like for them to match.

Here is the updated list so far, I took out the gussets, I wanted better movement, but if they don't add much, no reason to sacrafice the asthetic look of the jacket. I took out the things from my original list that come standard. If I accidentally took out something that isn't standard, please tell me. I'll probably give a chest size of 42" so I can add some bulk and not be cramed. I might end up going with the satin sleeves, but for now it's cotton throughout.

Height- 5'10" (177.8 cm)
Chest- 39.5" (100.33 cm)
Sleeve- went to the tailor, they measured, but they didn't write it down
Jacket Size- ???
Style- Raiders
Leather- Authentic Lambskin
Lining- Cotton Silesia
Side Fastener- Rectangular

Tapered Sleeves
Tapered Back (so it doesn't flare up I'm told)
X-Box Stitching
Back Pleat Elastic
Thin Leather Inside Pocket Slit
Thin Leather Inside Pocket Slit on opposite side

Thanks.

Just one thingie, welcome to our humble community!

#### you Peter for giving so many options for the jackets, I'm plagued by indecision. Now I'm leaning for the goatskin so it will last longer.

How does is drape compared to lamb? I know they aren't the same, but will it eventually drape well after a couple years of wearing it in?

Yes!

Regards,
Swindiana

I have the auth. goat myself and couldn't compare objectively.
However, it will loosen up with wear and comform further to your body shape. After a few downpoors, taking it for a spinn in the dryer and a few leather lotion treatments it feels like a second skin to me, and it is after all.
It's a bit thicker than todays lamb for sure, but keep in mind that the lamb of the 80's is said to compare in thickness with that of todays goat.
My ToD goat drapes pretty much the same way as the jacket does in the movie I think.


HERE it is brand new once upon a time. And HERE and HERE and HERE are a few shots of it worn.

Regards,
Swindiana

Swindiana wrote:HERE it is brand new once upon a time. And HERE and HERE and HERE are a few shots of it worn.

Regards,
Swindiana

That second pic makes me want the ToD.

I've heard people say I should send my back length. How do I measure that?

Thanks.

Nooo Swindy, you have opened the Pandora's box again by posting that pic of the old fellow with a red cotton Wested.

itismedan wrote: That second pic makes me want the ToD.
I've heard people say I should send my back length. How do I measure that?
Thanks.

It would be the third measurement on the pic in this link;
http://www.kinlochanderson.com/data/mea ... ckets.html

An easy way to do it is to take the measurement from a bit longer jacket that you already have, folding it up to where you want your Wested to end and using that measurement when the jacket is removed.

VP wrote: Nooo Swindy, you have opened the Pandora's box again by posting that pic of the old fellow with a red cotton Wested.

Yes... Sorry about that. I guess I need some new pics, huh?

Regards,
Swindiana

*Bump*

So, how is it coming along my friend?

Regards,
Swindiana

lamb or goat? I've owned a lambskin and now own the goat. I prefer the look and feel of the goat over the lamb. The drape is fairly close and the goat feels so much more like a tough adventure jacket without having much extra weight.
The other day I was cycling home and had my jacket draped over the handlebars as it was SO hot. At one point the jacket fell off, I rode over it and it got snaged in my rear wheel. I freed it and thought "cool, natural distressing - and thank goodness it's not lamb!!" There's barely a scuff - whereas if it'd been my lambskin I'm sure I'd now be having it repaired.

Swindiana wrote:*Bump*

So, how is it coming along my friend?

Regards,
Swindiana

Now you have me going back and forth over the Raiders vs. ToD. The Riaders, to me, seems more like an "adventure" jacket. Not quite as big as teh ToD. ToD with the extra inch, to me, seems to be sort of more of a relax jacket. Something you'd wear on a more formal date (or am I just being crazy?).

Why do most people get their ToD in dark brown?

Thanks.

A lot of people go for dark brown because it looks like the colour we know from the screen. Fact is, the screen used jackets were what is now called "authentic" brown - but because it's film they look darker. My lambskin was authentic brown and it always looked great in photos. But to me looking at it with the naked eyes - it always looked wrong, too light and chocolatey.
It's a personal choice.

Welcome Itismedan! You will not go wrong with either leather but I chose the goat and am extremely happy with it. It holds up to everything. So far my biggest adventure in it was sledding down a hill and into a chain link fence this winter. It survived unscathed! (I wish I had) Let us know when you get your jacket.

itismedan;
Essentially, they are exactly the same jacket, only different in length.
(Or used to be, since I think there might be some stuff going on with alternate pockets perhaps?)
My jacket could be a slightly longer ToD or a rather longer Raiders, and it wouldn't matter since I ordered mine another inch longer from the ToD one I sent back, back in the day. The fit is the same to your specs no matter the length...
Just order with the measurement to where you want your jacket to end and you'll be happy with it. Try the jacket folding trick and I'm sure you'll find a good length.

Best regards,
Swindiana

Been meaning to get the back measure and arm lenth, got a 2nd job and am harldy ever hope anymore. Decided not to get the XBox 360, I only play NCAA Football. Haven't played the old once in about 6 months, one day just put it away and picked up a book. Next book/s I'm looking into are the Clive Cusslers and Monte Cristo.

So I'll definitely be sending away for the jacket at the beginning of July so I'll have it before I have to leave during mid August.

Thanks Whiskyman for helping me to decide 100% on the goat. Swindiana, I am now almost sold on mine jacket looking exactly like your. Did you specify pocket size? Just to make sure I think I'll specify, heard rumors of them being too big.

May have asked this earlier but what are your guys' thoughts on tapered sleeves and backs?

itismedan;
I first wanted to have smaller pockets, but Wested adviced not to since it wouldn't be replacable in case something went wrong.
If all the Westeds were leftovers from Raiders I figured the pocket size wouldn't matter anyway.

Regards,
Swindiana

Got measured again today, lady told me I'm a 40, but once I tried a 40 on she told be it didn't fit me because my shoulders are wider than most so 42 is my jacket size. It fit my arm length pretty well. I still want to add some length to the sleeves so when the arms wrinkle it won't be too short. What is the arm length of a 42 jacket.

Height- 5'10"
Chest- 40"
Sleeve- ???
Jacket Size- 42
Style- Temple of Doom
Leather- Authentic Goatskin
Lining- Cotton Silesia
Side Fastener- Rectangular

Tapered Sleeves
Tapered Back (so it doesn't flare up I'm told)
X-Box Stitching
Back Pleat Elastic
Thin Leather Inside Pocket Slit
Thin Leather Inside Pocket Slit on opposite side

Extra Measurements
Overarm- 49"
Coat Sleeve Inseam- 16.5"
Hip- 44"
Waist- 33"
Bicep- 16"
Weight- 205 lbs

Now just waiting for the cash to build and suggestions on arm length before I order.

Again, any suggestions are welcome, thanks.

According to Wested's website the sleeve length on a 42 regular is 24.75".

The back length on a 42 regular is also 24.75", so a Temple jacket would be 25.75" inches long.

Hope this helps!

Thanks WinstonWolf359.

What do you guys think about adding length to the arms and how much?

Thanks.