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Oh wise sages of the felt! Help!

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 8:56 pm
by batfan76
Well, I've poored over the entire site, through all the minutiae and exhaustive amount of information, and I've decided to buy...

...I don't know.

Truth is, I'm more confused than ever!

Which had me feeling pretty bad. But, then I saw the fora (forums?). Here are a small group of geniuses when it concerns getting a nice fitting fedora!

So, my wife went to great lengths to get an e-mail COW would accept...
:x

So, Please, please, please help. Suggestions from those of you with a wealth of knowledge would be unbelievably appreciated.

Here's what I want from my fedora:

I want to be able to wear it in the rain.
I want to be able to wear it in hot weather without melting.
I want that sharp angle (from the side)toward the front, most notably from Raiders.
I don't want the "lips" single-line fold on top.
I want it to be warm (brownish) dark-grey (charcoal) with darker ribbon.
I don't want the top to be tapered greatly when seen from the front.
I would like it shipped to my house, in the US, for less than $150.
I would like the measurements to be tweaked to my proportions while maintaining the same proportions as the original hat(s).
I would like it to be durable.
I want it to be preformed.
I don't want Lucasfilm, Ltd. or Walt Disney World written in big letters on it.
I would like the crown to be of the shorter variety (which film had the shortest? measurement?)

Also, I found no glossary. What do these mean?

*dimensionally cut (brim)?
*straight-side crown?
*tight pinch?
*brim?
*difference between side and back/front?

Please help Obi Wan Kenobi, you're our only hope.

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 9:32 pm
by Pitfall Harry
About the closest thing I can offer you within that price range that's going to do just about everything you want is the Akubra Federation Deluxe from HatsDirect.

The next choice would be the AB but that's much higher in price.

The people at HatsDirect are very nice and they may work with you on the "details" you want.

Here's a few shots of mine.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 9:52 pm
by batfan76
Much thanks, Pitfall (Have they made an update of the game? Could be killer...)

The "AB"?

"...a shot of [yours]"? Which do you have? Hats Direct's? Custom?

Know you see why I had to post in the first place...!

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 10:00 pm
by Fedora
would like the measurements to be tweaked to my proportions while maintaining the same proportions as the original hat(s).
That one lost me. :D But, I think I know what you meant. Adjust the dimensions of the hat to suit your head and facial shape, while maintaining the overall look of an Indy fedora.


If you cannot do this, you will have to enlist a hatter to do the alterations. I do not know of any that would make a hat like you want, for the price you stated. You either have to move down on your expectations, or move up on what you are willing to pay.

On the color, a brownish charcoal gray? I have not seen one like that, but a company such as the Portugal feltmaker has a large assortment of colors. Only thing is, the only one that I know that might get close is Optimo in Chicago.(he usually has a large color assortment of the portugal felt) But he gets over 4 bills for his stock felted hats.

As the old saying goes, "I don't think you can get there from here" Regards, Fedora

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 10:02 pm
by Pitfall Harry
batfan76 wrote:Much thanks, Pitfall (Have they made an update of the game? Could be killer...)

The "AB"?

"...a shot of [yours]"? Which do you have? Hats Direct's? Custom?

Know you see why I had to post in the first place...!

Sorry for the confusion. I'm used to being the one that's lost! HA!

I own the Akubra Federation Deluxe and that's the hat in the pics. It came to me open crowned which means you have to shape it yourself. It's not hard at all and they even send information with the hat and have it on their website.

Here is the link to their site.

http://www.hatsdirect.com/hat-info/federation.html

They have two versions of this hat. The regular and the Deluxe. The Deluxe has a higher quality of felt. You can read all about it at the site.

The "AB" I was refering to was the Adventurebilt Hat's made by Steve Delk aka Fedora on here. Here's the link to his site and you can read all about this hat there.

http://www.adventurebilthats.com/

This is the top of the line as far as the Indy hats go. It costs more but it's worth every penny. ;)

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 11:29 pm
by Antone
Batfan,

Welcome to COW!

I'd agree with Pitfall, the Akubra Federation is a great hat for under $150.

The next step up from that hat is the Camptown from Jersey Jones. It's just within your stated price range, it is made from good felt, has a ventilated sweatband so it's less hot in warm weather, isn't tapered from what I've seen, and has most of the other characteristics you mention. The only part that doesn't match up is that you would have to bash it yourself or pay extra to have that done.

There should be a Camptown/Jersey Jones thread in this forum if you scroll down, take a look and see if that's what you're looking for. I think that's as close as you're going to get for the stated price. But as I said above, the Fed and Fed Deluxe are both great hats and an excellent value for the price.

Antone

Re: Oh wise sages of the felt! Help!

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 11:46 pm
by Antone
batfan76 wrote:
Also, I found no glossary. What do these mean?

*dimensionally cut (brim)?
*straight-side crown?
*tight pinch?
*brim?
*difference between side and back/front?

Please help Obi Wan Kenobi, you're our only hope.
Dimensionally cut brims are wider at the front and back of the hat than on the sides. This was a feature of the screen hats, or at least the ones we all like :wink:

Straight-sided crowns are simply those that don't taper noticeably when seen from the front.

A tight pinch is when the two dents above the forehead at the front of the hat come together to form a ridge on the front of the hat, as in the Raiders fedora.

The brim is the part of the hat that sticks out below the band; it's the part that keeps the sun off your face and neck.

I'm not sure what you mean by "difference between side and front/back" without knowing the context. It might be referring to how much of a difference there is in the width of the brim, i. e. the dimensional cut. For example, the Raiders fedora(s) had a brim that was roughly 2 and 7/8 inches front and back width and 2 and 3/4 inches wide on either side.

In any case, I hope that clears up some of our hat babble.

Regards,

Antone

oh wise sages of felt,help.

Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 11:59 pm
by hanson
With the $150 price tag, You might also try one of the pioneers of Indy gear, Lee Keppler at adventuresupply.com. He was the only guy I got stuff from back when I started going authentic in the 1980's. Like most of us he is very accomodating and a very nice guy. regards hanson.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 12:27 am
by Pitfall Harry
Does anyone here own a Keppler Fedora that has photo's of them wearing it? I've always wondered if those held up as well as the Akubra and the AB?

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 12:36 am
by Mulceber
I'm not sure, but I believe I heard that the Keppler doesn't hold up all that well. Don't quote me on that, though, cause I could well be wrong. :junior: -IJ

oh wise sages of felt,help.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 1:27 am
by hanson
I spoke to both Lee and Fedora the other day, and I think it was Fedora who told me Lee had changed to Beaver Brand 6x felt and that it should be much better than the 5x. Anyhow we shall see because I ordered 1 in China clipper grey. I will torture test it and let you know how it holds up. regards hanson.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 10:59 am
by Fedoraman
Honestly - given the criteria you speak of, you would be suited to find one of the Burlington Coat Factory fedoras. The price is great, you can stretch the felt to ANY size or shape and you described the color exactly (brownish charcoal gray).

Get one of these $15+ hats, find a hatter in your area and get it refurbished for around $40-50 to your size and style. Once it's shaped - these cheap lids are BULLET-PROOF. I have a couple that I remade myself and I use them when I do yard work, great hats I tellsya.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 1:02 pm
by Pitfall Harry
Mmm.....I don't know about that. I've seen those Fedora's at the Burlington here in my home town and unless their offering different ones where you live the ones I saw weren't very good. Most of them were wool/ felt and a few with fur/felt and even that was questionable. These hat's didn't look like they'd hold up very well either.

Assuming he has a place where he lives he could take the hat to get adjusted it's going to still be about $50 or more so adding that plus the money he spends buying the hat throws him into $65 or $70 range. That puts him near the "official hat" I bought which isn't that great but it still is a higher quality than what I saw at Burlington.

I guess if he just wants "A" fedora then they'd be ok but if he's looking for an Indy fedora I'd look elsewhere.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 1:41 pm
by Bufflehead Jones
Besides, no one has posted that they have seen these hats at Burlington for a year or two.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 1:41 pm
by Fedoraman
Pitfall Harry wrote:Mmm.....I don't know about that. I've seen those Fedora's at the Burlington here in my home town and unless their offering different ones where you live the ones I saw weren't very good. Most of them were wool/ felt and a few with fur/felt and even that was questionable. These hat's didn't look like they'd hold up very well either.

Assuming he has a place where he lives he could take the hat to get adjusted it's going to still be about $50 or more so adding that plus the money he spends buying the hat throws him into $65 or $70 range. That puts him near the "official hat" I bought which isn't that great but it still is a higher quality than what I saw at Burlington.

I guess if he just wants "A" fedora then they'd be ok but if he's looking for an Indy fedora I'd look elsewhere.
Do a search on this forum for an in-depth discussion on these hats. Based on your comments, I would venture a guess that you have not seen the hats I am talking about - these are not wool hats.

All I am saying is that a guy looking to be on the cheap can get a great hat out of these bodies...by himself with your own blocks, needles and thread(really cheap like me :D ) or through a hatter in your area (much less painful on the fingers).

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 1:48 pm
by Fedora
All I am saying is that a guy looking to be on the cheap can get a great hat out of these bodies...by himself with your own blocks, needles and thread(really cheap like me ) or through a hatter in your area (much less painful on the fingers).
Yes, a good way to go. I have seen some of those Tonak bodies that were good, better than a modern Stetson by a long shot. Fedora

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 3:30 pm
by Pitfall Harry
Bufflehead Jones wrote:Besides, no one has posted that they have seen these hats at Burlington for a year or two.

Your right. As I recall the discussion Fedoraman I think is refering to is about the Burlington hats that were available a few years ago. I think they said they found them opening day at their particular store.

The hats I've seen there were all stacked on top of each other and range between $15 to $20 dollars and were most wool felt and fur felt like I posted above.

I checked these hats out a while ago because after my Dorfman I was looking to get another one but I wanted to maybe find something here in town. Needless to say these weren't right for me.

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 9:35 pm
by Dalexs
You also missed this page viewtopic.php?t=16817
Which resulted in this
Image

BCF's aren't out there as much anymore, but you still can find themn every so often.
And yes, most of what you find there are those wool felt ones.
But every so often...

Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 10:37 pm
by Pitfall Harry
That's a nice looking hat. It looks like you put a lot of work into it and it shows but how does that thing hold up in the long run?

I think it's a nice suggestion for Batfan but I think he'd be lucky to find the ones that you guys bought.

Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 12:30 pm
by Ghos7a55assin
If a Keppler fedora is in the cards for you, ask Indiana Ken or Daniel Riser (Indiana Dan?). I know Ken wore his Keppler throughout the shooting of Templars and it held up decently and Dan Riser is a strong proponent of the hat as well.

ray

Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 1:01 pm
by IndianaGuybrush
My first hat was a Keppler as well and I was very happy with it. The felt wasn't superb, but in my opinion it was better than either the fed or the fed deluxe. I ended up getting rid of the hat after buying an Optimo and an HJ (and later an AB) but I still think it's the best entry-level fedora you can buy if you can't save up that last $100 for an adventurebilt

Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 11:45 pm
by batfan76
Much Thanks, Antone and Pitfall.

I've got to say, this is probably the friendliest forum I've ever been on.

(Now if only I could find out how to get me an ESB Han Solo jacket!)

Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 11:59 pm
by batfan76
Thanks again, all.

I think I'm getting closer to my first hat.

I noticed this thread has gotten a little off-track (not really, I suppose -- we're still talking Indy fedoras, yes?), so I'll ask some more specific questions:

I've noticed most "Indy" hats are in a milk chocolate color. However, the "Miller" hats offer it in "coffee", a more faded, muted color. Is this more or less accurate, in this board's opinion? Is it to simulate a dusty, worn fedora?

What is the difference between a "snap-brim" model and a regular?

I'm purchasing off of the 'net. So, I need to know what kind of material (felt) to look for when basing my decision. I'm looking for material that won't shrink/misshape too much (even with exposure), can be reshaped fairly easily at home (without special tools), will hold up to rain, but not be too heavy in the summers, and look similar to Indy's when new and aged.
Any suggestions on what type would be best? I hear a lot of "smooth", "presidential", "beaver felt", etc., but can I get some kind of consensus on preferrable material?

Thanks everybody.

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 12:18 am
by Pitfall Harry
Well, Fedora uses 100% pure beaver felt for the AB which I think is the best and is pretty tough. The Akubra I bought is made from pure Rabbit fur. From what I've read from other owners the Akubra is is pretty tough too and both hats can withstand some pretty rough treatment. Of course my hat is within the price range you were looking at the AB is not.

It's your call.

Getting warmer...

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 9:30 pm
by batfan76
So, can the federation be "bashed" into a teardrop top at home (with NO special equipment or exceptional skill)?

I assume the dramatic swooping is just caused by bending the rim at the right angles when using cold water sprayed on...? Or is there a better method?

I was informed that most of the fedoras just aren't gonna hold up in the rain.

Whaaat--?!
I wanted one o' these 'cause I thought they were what an outdoor adventurer could wear and beat up (much like the jacket and boots). 'Sides, in all those old movies, I never saw Bogey or Cagney take off their lids when it started raining. (Spray Scotchguard on it? Is that "kosher"?)

'sides, some here say they never look better'n after a good rain-soaking. N'est-ce pas? While drying, what is an affordable apparatus to hang one o' these on?

Also, is their a (reasonably-priced) model that has that wonderful tapering from front to back? Can I still get a tapering effect with a teardrop-top?

Is the chin-cord just a matter of (nervously) putting a (small) hole in each side and tying a knot in the cord? Or should I let the hatter do that?

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 11:53 pm
by JPdesign
Check out my thread in the Vendor section

Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 1:23 am
by batfan76
I can find no section of the forum marked 'Vendors' or any such. Is it on the main site?

I wouldn't mind *someone* answering my questions. I know it ain't the sexiest of discussions....[/quote]

Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 1:34 am
by Mulceber
Ok. The Akubra Fed does not come with a tear drop bash, in fact, it doesn't come with any bash at all. You do that yourself.

The Vendors section is right here: viewforum.php?f=24

adding water and bending does help to create the swoop, but if you really want it to have the swoop, have it "turned." This involves shifting the the felt body so it isn't perfectly symmetrical (at least as far as I know) and shifting the pinch off-center.

well, while its drying, I'd suggest just putting it on top of a lamp shade. If you want to bash it yourself that is. Personally, I'd prefer a pre-bashed hat.
Spray Scotchguard on it? Is that "kosher"
sure.
Is the chin-cord just a matter of (nervously) putting a (small) hole in each side and tying a knot in the cord? Or should I let the hatter do that?
Uh, I seriously wouldn't reccomend even going for a chin cord at all. Doesn't look very 30's-ish and certainly not like Indy's hat. I think you'll find the hat stays on pretty well by itself, you just need to have it sized right.

Honestly, with all the special details you want on your hat, I would reccomend that you go for the Adventurebilt. Steve will take everything you've said here into account when he makes your hat, and you definitely won't be disappointed with his work. Give him a PM, I'm sure he won't mind answering your questions. :junior: -IJ

Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 4:51 am
by Bufflehead Jones
IndianaJones wrote:well, while its drying, I'd suggest just putting it on top of a lamp shade. If you want to bash it yourself that is. Personally, I'd prefer a pre-bashed hat.
I would not advise doing this and turning the lamp on, unless you want the hat to shrink one size.

Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 11:08 am
by Indiana Legones
Hi Batfan!

Welcome to the forum. I must say, I am a newbie as well, but after a similar in-depth and exhaustive review I went for the Akruba Federation, and I can't stress how happy I am with my decision!
Now, be warned... once you start down the dark path, forever will it dominate your destiny!!! Even though I am in loooove with my Fed, I've already started saving money for an AB, and believe me, I swore I would be getting only one!!!
:wink:

Best regards,
Henry Guemez

Posted: Sat May 06, 2006 1:09 pm
by Mulceber
I would not advise doing this and turning the lamp on, unless you want the hat to shrink one size.
I never said he should turn it on. :junior: -IJ

Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 1:32 am
by batfan76
Do we know how tall the crown of the original Raiders hat was, when bashed? I saw the crown height of 5.5", but it appears that this is unbashed. Front crown height? Middle of trench height? Back crown height?

Basically, the only question know revolves around the fact that I think the Raiders hat is pretty tall and only looks good on a very small portion of persons out there, and I don't think I'm gonna be in that group. So, are there any models below $120 that have a smaller crown height, but keep the sweeping brim widths (something closer to IJ&TLC profile)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm wavering between 3 different models.

Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 2:18 am
by Mulceber
I'm sorry, but you aren't going to be able to find a hatter that makes hats with all those specific details you want and charges $120 or less. Just doesn't happen. You've either gotta either lower your expectations or decide to spend more. :junior: -IJ