Second Jacket Advice

Hydronaut · Post by **Hydronaut** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 11:20 pm

I have decided to get another Wested after 10 years and I wouldn’t mind some feedback. My current once is lambskin (I don’t remember them offering other choices except cowhide by special request). I have decided that I want something a little more durable and unique at the same time so I think I will go for the horsehide. It is not that much extra and from what I have been reading it looks nice.

Also, from what I have read there have been quite a few chances. In my opinion some are good and some are bad. Basically want the best of both worlds. Semi screen accurate and practical at the same time. If another Indy move ever comes out I highly doubt that they will be made exactly like the others. If the new ones had brass buckles everybody would want brass buckles. I am more concerned about the style than the hardware.

I have posted some pics of my old jacket here:

http://community.webshots.com/album/548416881nuQGBs

I know the sleeves are a bit long, but the tend to ride up when I used to right my motorcycle. Hopefully I will buy one again… Check this out if you get a chance:

http://www.imz-ural.com/gearup/

Leather - Dark brown horsehide, it is different and durable…

Pattern - 919 (Chris King/80's/thinner) pattern or standard? Currently I have a 40R jacket that is just over 10 years old and I can fit a thin fleece underneath. I am 5’7”, around 165 pounds and wear a size 38 suit jacket. So I have a bit of room to play with if I get another 40R. This is where I want people’s advice. Maybe I should go down to a 38? However, I swear mine has stretched over the years and remember it being a bit tight when I got it. However, for everyday use I prefer it a bit roomy. My G1 is a size 42 and I think it is around the same size as my Wested, however I have noticed that military jackets fit a bit tighter.

So I am thinking a 40R with the 80’s pattern might do the trick…

I took most of this info from previous posts, so I did so some reading…

Lining - Cotton all the way.

Zipper - It’s not screen accurate but it would be nice to get an old Scoville zipper like my G1 flight jacket. But their standard offering will be fine. The zipper should extend to the bottom of the jacket.

Leather facing - Add to the zipper. I got my zipper caught many times and took a big hunk of leather out of the storm flap when I pulled really hard it caught the leather.

Storm Flap- 1.5 inches (3.8cm) width. The straight corner is fine.

Collar Stand - Leather collar stand (I am assuming this is standard).

Collar - 2.75 inches (7cm) on the tips tapering down to 2.5 inches (6.4cm). The left collar should also extend to the midway point of the top of the storm flap, or .75 inches (1.9cm) from the edge of the flap.

Pockets

Should I go for the square or round bottoms?

Right Pocket
• 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the zipper seam (edge of jacket) and 2 inches (5.1cm) from bottom
• Width 6.25 inches (16cm)
• Length of (including pocket flap) 7.5 inches. (19.1cm)
• Scalloped pocket flap
• Pocket flap length in middle of flap of 2.75" (7cm)

Left Pocket
• 1 inch (2.5cm) from storm flap and 2 inches (5.1cm) from bottom
• Width of 6.25 inches (16cm)
• Length of (including pocket flap) 7.5 inches. (19.1cm)
• Scalloped pocket flap
• Pocket flap length in middle of flap of 2.75" (7cm)

Side Strap
• Length of 8.75 inches (22.3cm) and a width of 1 inch (2.5cm)
• Side straps sewn with X pattern AND box pattern, double stitched

Which is more accurate? My old Wested has the back part of the side strap sewn underneath the pleat so it is not visible. Should it be on top?

Side Strap Buckles - Brass (I think it looks better) rectangular 2 piece rings.

Side vent stitch - No stitch holding the side vents closed.

Pleat depth - 1.25 inches (3.2cm)

Yoke seam - The arm seam should be 1 inch (2.5cm) BELOW the yoke seam.

Back panel - The back panel should extend all the way out to the sleeve seam.

Inside Pocket - Left side, slit (less leather) pocket.

Underarm Gussets – I am considering the 1 piece (small) underarm gussets. Or should I go with none?

Mr. Das · Post by **Mr. Das** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:38 am

I think the Chris King is more or less standard now. You may have to request little things like pocket size and yoke, but Agent5's thread covers that perfectly. A thing to note that if you do go through with those "major" changes, Wested will not accept returns, so hopefully everything works out.

Wested changed their sizing within the last year or so. If you got a 40R years back, then a 38R would be what you want to order now.

As far as I know, there is no such thing as Horsehide-Dark Brown. It only comes in one colour, which is in between Dark Brown and authentic.

I'd get tapered sleeves. I use it and like it a lot (and I don't even ride a bike).

Bjones · Post by **Bjones** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:52 am

The horse is listed as dark brown on Wested's site, but its not as dark as the dark brown lamb or goat just as you say Das. I've been calling it "Dark Chocolate" brown.

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:09 am

Wow! In terms of material, you're jumping from one end of the spectrum to the other....lambskin to horsehide! That's like trading in a Chevy Chevette for a Hummer!

Just curious....why the huge jump? Nothing wrong what so ever in your choice, so please don't misunderstand my question...but it's definitely going to be a completely different thing than what you've been used to in terms of drape and weight!

The folks who have ordered these HH jackets have at least gone up weight wise by owning cowhide or goatskin jackets, then deciding to go all the way up to HH, as they're used to this kind of weighty material.

Like I said, just curious as to your decision here.

Regards! Michaelson

Hydronaut · Post by **Hydronaut** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm

Michaelson wrote:Wow! In terms of material, you're jumping from one end of the spectrum to the other....lambskin to horsehide! That's like trading in a Chevy Chevette for a Hummer!

Just curious....why the huge jump? Nothing wrong what so ever in your choice, so please don't misunderstand my question...but it's definitely going to be a completely different thing than what you've been used to in terms of drape and weight!

The folks who have ordered these HH jackets have at least gone up weight wise by owning cowhide or goatskin jackets, then deciding to go all the way up to HH, as they're used to this kind of weighty material.

Like I said, just curious as to your decision here.

Regards! Michaelson

My G1 is goatskin and fairly heave and very stiff. I wear it when it is a bit cooler out. I figure I already have a Lambskin Wested, a goatskin G1, another leather jacket that is cowhide, so why not go for horsehide.

I also found that the lambskin wore well over time but would prefer something a bit tuffer.

Plus, it is uniqe and a little bit different...

Post by **Michaelson** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:09 pm

That's what I was hoping... you DO know where you're going, as you DO have goatskin and cowhide in jackets in your background. VERY good.....lock and load, my friend! Sounds like you've got everything well under control!

High regards! Michaelson