Elsa Lighter: How to Protect It?
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Elsa Lighter: How to Protect It?
Hi all ,
I just got my Elsa lighter from Relic Raider. I suppose it is the resin model.
How do y'all keep the lighter from scratching in your pocket?
I saw a leather Zippo pouch, but that might be too bulky. I have the flashlight insert in it. A great combination and a wonderful gift from my wife.
Best,
Prof. Ed
I just got my Elsa lighter from Relic Raider. I suppose it is the resin model.
How do y'all keep the lighter from scratching in your pocket?
I saw a leather Zippo pouch, but that might be too bulky. I have the flashlight insert in it. A great combination and a wonderful gift from my wife.
Best,
Prof. Ed
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I don't recall where, but I'm pretty sure that he still said it's just smart not to put it in the same pocket as something metal - like change or keys. Heck, that would scratch the metal, not to mention the badges.
There are also two different types of finishes, and one is more scratch resistant...and I don't remember which is which. *Sigh*...RR, help!
I don't baby mine, and I have accidentally had something in the same pocket from time to time. It's got some minor scuffing/abrasions in the badges, but nothing you'd notice without studying it, really. Meanwhile, one bottom corner of my zippo has a good DENT, so I must have dropped it pretty hard at some point (or someone did it for me ), and the badges didn't give at all. The adhesive he's using these days I believe is some sort of industrial grade (so don't stick it to your tongue).
J
(P.S. If you want it to be pristine forever...buy two. )
There are also two different types of finishes, and one is more scratch resistant...and I don't remember which is which. *Sigh*...RR, help!
I don't baby mine, and I have accidentally had something in the same pocket from time to time. It's got some minor scuffing/abrasions in the badges, but nothing you'd notice without studying it, really. Meanwhile, one bottom corner of my zippo has a good DENT, so I must have dropped it pretty hard at some point (or someone did it for me ), and the badges didn't give at all. The adhesive he's using these days I believe is some sort of industrial grade (so don't stick it to your tongue).
J
(P.S. If you want it to be pristine forever...buy two. )
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Sergei may speak for me anytime, as he is familiar with my resin badges, including the previous epoxy and current urethane ones.
Resin is about as scratch-resistant as any synthetic material. There are some synthetics that are harder, like acrylic, but acrylics tend to chip and crack and they are not very flexible. With a satin finish you do not have to fear small scratches and scuff marks that will definitely show on a glossy finish. Hence my general recommendation to choose a satin finish. Also, if you look at the movie prop, it appears to have semi-gloss or satin finish. I think the prop was painted with white poster paint, which has that type finish.
The question of durabilty keeps coming up, and all I can say is that the resin badges, due to their low weight, will generally do very well in a fall. In terms of longterm use and wear, I'd have to give the hybrid badges the nod. The metal edge protects the edges of the resin inlay -- and it's usually the edges that wear most on all utensils. And a Zippo is a utensil, if used in the intended manner.
Whichever badge type you have on your Zippo, I do not recommend carrying it together with loose change or keys in a pocket. All clover Zippos and clover badge kits that I sell come now with a small cotton drawstring baggy. The baggy is not intended as a solution for your carrying needs, but it should give you a chance to find a more sturdy pouch or carrying case that fits your taste and needs. The ultimate in protection I have see until now, would be an Otterbox hard case.
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
Resin is about as scratch-resistant as any synthetic material. There are some synthetics that are harder, like acrylic, but acrylics tend to chip and crack and they are not very flexible. With a satin finish you do not have to fear small scratches and scuff marks that will definitely show on a glossy finish. Hence my general recommendation to choose a satin finish. Also, if you look at the movie prop, it appears to have semi-gloss or satin finish. I think the prop was painted with white poster paint, which has that type finish.
The question of durabilty keeps coming up, and all I can say is that the resin badges, due to their low weight, will generally do very well in a fall. In terms of longterm use and wear, I'd have to give the hybrid badges the nod. The metal edge protects the edges of the resin inlay -- and it's usually the edges that wear most on all utensils. And a Zippo is a utensil, if used in the intended manner.
Whichever badge type you have on your Zippo, I do not recommend carrying it together with loose change or keys in a pocket. All clover Zippos and clover badge kits that I sell come now with a small cotton drawstring baggy. The baggy is not intended as a solution for your carrying needs, but it should give you a chance to find a more sturdy pouch or carrying case that fits your taste and needs. The ultimate in protection I have see until now, would be an Otterbox hard case.
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
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Indiana_Tone, your badges have the glossy finish. Should you ever get annoyed by the scratches, you have the option of applying yourself, or of having applied, a satin finish. Small scratches can also be polished out with a plastic polish by hand, but it's tedious.Indiana_Tone wrote:The resin finish will show scratches if they're on there but only at an angle and that's if the light glares the right sheen across the finish while you're looking
Cheers,
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Re: Elsa Lighter: How to Protect It?
#200 urethane resin, satin finish -- state of the art.Prof. Ed wrote:Hi all ,
I just got my Elsa lighter from Relic Raider. I suppose it is the resin model.
Did I include the cotton baggy? In case I forgot, let me know and I'll send you one!
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
Re: Elsa Lighter: How to Protect It?
Hi RR, I got the cotton baggy, but the string fell apart and I had to remove one of them. Now it won't stay closed. If you wish to send me another, that would be great. I sent you a PM.Relic Raider wrote:#200 urethane resin, satin finish -- state of the art.Prof. Ed wrote:Hi all ,
I just got my Elsa lighter from Relic Raider. I suppose it is the resin model.
Did I include the cotton baggy? In case I forgot, let me know and I'll send you one!
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
Best,
Prof. Ed
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Ed, I'll send you another baggy. I know those bags aren't exactly super quality, but I figured they were better than nothing. You can get a decent leather baggy for maybe $5 in many arts&crafts shops like Michael's, Ben Franklin and Beverly's. Going there is a little emasculating, but after a while you don't care any more! Those bags come in all sort of colors and of course also in materials other than leather.
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
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I can pull my Fed. down over my eyes, but my white beard makes me stand out anyway.Indykid89 wrote:Prof Rambo... that was good
Do what I do ed.... pull your fed down over your eyes and coin watch ( or bead watch when I go with my mom, those things are slippery little buggers)
I like the "Rambo" thing. :evil: I'll show those people that are into arts and crafts!
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Indiana Jerry wrote:Meanwhile, one bottom corner of my zippo has a good DENT, so I must have dropped it pretty hard at some point (or someone did it for me ), and the badges didn't give at all. The adhesive he's using these days I believe is some sort of industrial grade (so don't stick it to your tongue).
The adhesive I'm using is indeed an industrial grade acrylic transfer adhesive, which is made by 3M. It is not a double-stick tape. Double-stick tape is a substrate, a film, with an adhesive on both sides of the substrate. A transfer adhesive is just adhesive on a carrier backing. Once the transfer adhesive is applied and the carrier backing is peeled off, only a very thin layer of adhesive is left behind. The adhesive by far exceeds consumers' needs. You can't get that particular tape in consumer quantities. Let's just say I had to buy a few huge rolls and have so far used up not even one! This transfer tape works very well on all smooth non-porous surfaces like plastic, metal and glass. It does not stick well to skin, or I'd be in trouble! Per the manufacturer, the adhesive exhibits these properties:
* thickness: 5 mil=0.005"=0.127mm
* heat resistance: 400 degr F/204 degr C short term (minutes, hours)
* 300 degr F/149 degr C long term (days weeks)
* low service temperature: <-31 degr F/-35 degr C
* indoor and outdor use
* water, acid, solvent resistant
* the bond is instant
* exhibits excellent holding and shear strength
* outstanding aging for a long term bond
Sorry for all the tech-talk!
Cheers,
-Relic Raider
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Agreed. I have worn out inserts but the outer shell still looks great. No chips or cracks. And the scratches they do have make them look all the better.Sergei wrote:Actually I hate to speak for RelicRaider... but these badges are fairly sturdy. You don't need to baby them like the cheap imitations that are already out there. I have a couple of those as well prior to RR's creations. Those you needed to make sure that nothing else was in your pocket.
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