Club Obi Wan

The elastic used on the "action pleats" for the Wested Jackets?

I've been doing a lot of reading and searching on here.

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on the deal, but I'm having a hard time figuring out the pleat business.

I've searched for pictures but I havent found much devoted strictly to the pleats.

I'm leaning towards getting ...

TOD cut
Raiders collar (although it seems like I shouldnt have to specify this if they are the same except for the extra inch added to the TOD).
Cotton and Satin combo liner
Sliders instead of the d rings
Dark brown goat

Is there any reason why they list the goat as "durable goatskin" for the dark brown and just "goatskin" for the authentic? Is there a difference in thickness between the two goats?

thanks!

You won´t find a picture of the back pleat elastic because you can´t see it. The elastic goes from one action pleat over the back to the other. It prevents the pleats to stay open.

As far as I know there is no difference between dark brown and authentic goat except the color.

The thing LC left off is that the elastic is between the inside lining and the leather outershell, so it's not visible.

As to the goatskin, I know the authentic is sourced from Italy, but I'm not sure about the 'durable' dark goat. Other than that, like LC said, they're the same in quality material.

Regards! Michaelson

Thanks!

So I guess I shouldnt worry about the elastic.

Can you feel it 'pulling' on the jacket while you wear it? Or is it something that's really not intrusive at all?

I read that one poster requested that the zipper tag not hang below the jacket.

Is that a common request?

On Gussets....

I do want them for extra mobility for those bar fights that could be in my future.

Is the one piece vs two piece gusset a matter of looks, or does having the two piece give you significant more freedom?

Can you feel it 'pulling' on the jacket while you wear it? Or is it something that's really not intrusive at all

You can't feel it while wearing it. The only way you can tell its there is
to lay the jacket down, with it opened up so you can see the inside lining,
and rub your hand across the lining along the back of the jacket.

All, real, Navy G-1 jackets have used the elastic for decades, as well
as all the U.S. Wings Indy jackets.

On my Wings Old Cow Indy jacket, I didn't even realize that it had
the elastic in it until I happened to rub my hand across the back lining.

The elastic bands are about 1.5 inches wide and very thin. There are
usually 3 bands across the back at the top, middle, and bottom. My Wings
jacket is like this. I do not own a Wested with the elastic bands in it, so
I can not comment about what they do.

The elastics are VERY effective at keeping the bi-swing back in place
after you move your arms around.

Flathead

On the Wested jacket I had to send back there was only one band of elastics across just below my shoulders, about 1.5 inches wide like mentioned. Though I didn't get to use that jacket very much I didn't feel the elastics until stretching my arms. Not in an annoying way, mind you, just them doing their job.

My current jacket does not have them, but the pleats stay nice and flat regardless so I don't miss it very much. What I'm trying to say is it will not hurt getting them, I guess.

Some people request their zippers to be extended as far down the jacket as possible, but not so far that the zipper tag will show. I think this is what you're referring to. The standard Wested zipper length will not let it show anyhow.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Swindiana

Getting closer now...

I have my measurements except for the shoulder.

How do we take a measurement on the shoulder? The web site lists 6.85 for a 44R jacket.

I wanted to check this on myself, but I'm not sure how. I'm assuming that this can't be the length around, because my upper arm is around 16" or so.


I think I want to specify the cuff opening and I think I want taper.

I was considering giving them the cuff size, the size of my elbow, and upper arm to see if that would help to get the taper right.

How big of a cuff size do these usually come with?

I measured my current favorite leather jacket and it has about a 13" opening. My wrist measures to 8", but that would be skin tight. My fist measures about 12" around. If I straighten my hand it would be closer to 11"

So I was thinking of asking for an 11.5" cuff opening. That would be large enough to fit my hand through, but not too loose and floppy on the wrist.

If you can't tell, I've never ordered a jacket this specific before.

How much does it cost to call over there from the US?

I thought about ordering by phone, but then I was thinking it may be better to order online.

I figure at least I know that I've transmitted the right measurements, and I dont risk someone writing them down wrong.

Those who have paid the extra fee involved in a phone call directly to Wested does not regret it as far as I've learned. Not sure of the charges, but well worth it I'm sure, speaking directly with the maker to get it all the way you want it.

Regards,
Swindiana

FYI, the 'maker' is at the QM this weekend, if you are close enough why don't you go and find him, just follow all the Fedoras.

But if you are not close enough, Peter is in the US all of next week so you will get Gemma or Gerry on the phone in the UK.

Gerry is probably your better bet for these sort of questions.

Ok I was going to send this off today, but I decided to post my order here first to see if looked like I was missing something.



Height 6'1
Chest 43"
Sleeve 25 3/4"
Jacket size 44R
Raiders Jacket
Dark Brown Durable Goatskin
Cotton Body/Stain Sleeves
Sliders


Special Requests

"I would like to have an extra inch up front as it is recommended due to the jacket riding up. Unless you think this is a bad idea.

I would like the cuffs to be 11.25"

I would like a slight taper on the sleeves. I'm not sure which measurements you need for the size of the sleeves. My bicep measures about 16" around. That would be skin tight. I dont know how much room is supposed to be in there, but the average sleeves on a 44R jacket fit me fine.

X-box stitching on the slider straps please.

I would also like two piece gussets to be added along with the elastic for the pleats.

I guess I need to say to add in the standard size storm flap since it's listed as an option on their web site.

What kind of zipper did the original Raiders jacket have....brass or silver?

I would guess that brass would blend in to the darker color of the jacket better....

Ok I did more searching on my own and now the order is placed!

Now the waiting game....