Club Obi Wan

I admit i know nothing about this jacket but i'm planning to buy one in the future (as well as pants and shirt, the last clothes i need for my indygear). I already have the measures.
Now my question are:

WHAT COLOUR is more screen accurate?
WHAT kind of leather should i choose? I saw there are many
WHAT kind of rings are Raiders-accurate? D rings or rectangular sliders?
Are there any other things i should know before i order a Wested Raiders jacket?

In my opinion, i think dark brown is more raiders n ToD screen accurate, but authentic brown is more LC accurate? to me...i could be wrong.
Authentic brown is accurate in reality thought i suppose? i got authentic and kinda wish i got dark brown. but if i'd gotetn Dark brown i might have wished for authentic?

I chose goat and couldnt be happier. lamb would be the most accurate an such, but goat sure is great. durable, supple, looks fantastic. but it's not what the original was made from.

Apparently both are accurate - d rings and rectangular sliders. if i'd known that i would have chosen sliders over d rings =(

Is there any difference in price if you choose different kinds of leather?

Npe there isn't.

Don't forget to get the X-box stitching!

The authentic brown lamb or goat necessarily IS the most accurate colour as Peter found a half finished jacket he had made at the time of Raiders and matched the colour to it. However as you know things appear different colours on screen than they do in reality so while it may be the most accurate colour to the jacket itself, the dark brown might be a better match for an onscreen colour depending what scene and lighting etc you are going for. Persoanlly I like the dark brown and I have one that is almost exactly the same colour as an authentic. Remember also there will be slight variations in colour, leather thickness, etc between batches.

Lamb IS the leather used in Raiders so if you want accuracy is drape and authenticity go for lamb. Colour choice is dark brown or authentic. If you are interested in distressing this makes a little difference as well. The authentic distresses greyish whereas the dark brown distresses a more tan colour.

D Rings are accurate but slides can be more practical as D Rings tend to let the straps slip a bit

There are MANY other things to consider. My one main advice is to ask for elastic for the action pleats - this makes a great difference, just be aware it is there though if you ever come to distress the jacket.

Ken

I'm starting to think about a Goatsking dark brown... anyway keep posting suggestions. I would like to know a lot of impressions

Indiana Ken wrote:. My one main advice is to ask for elastic for the action pleats - this makes a great difference, just be aware it is there though if you ever come to distress the jacket.

Ken

Thank you Ken, can i just ask you what are action pleats? do you have any pics to show me them?

I recommend the square sliders strongly, my first Westy had the D-rings on and it drove me mad keep on tightening them all the time.

Dark brown I like better than the Authentic, also go with the recommended liner of cotton with satin sleeves, believe me, it makes quite a bit of differnce when youare quickly throwing your jacket on, and the sleeves won't ride up as much during wear.

Those are loaded questions!
Ask five people and you could get five different answers. We can all justify the d-rings versus rectangular sliders, color choice, etc.

My jacket is an authentic brown lambskin. Raiders cut, rectangular sliders and I love it! The lambskin is soft and conforms to the body nicely. I cannot wait for the weather to cool down so I can wear it!

My opinion is to see what options are available and go with what you want.
One persons particulars might not matter to you. People discuss under arm gussets, elastic, action pleats, etc. I ordered what mattered to me and rarely wonder if my under arm gussets have folded into place!

Erri, along with what everyone else has said, feel free to contact me directly if you need help in ordering a jacket. I am very pleased with mine: an authentic lamb Raiders with cotton lining and no other special features.

Well from what i heard i should be careful to order

1) square sliders
2) action pleats
3) X-box stitching

Hemingway Jones wrote:Erri, along with what everyone else has said, feel free to contact me directly if you need help in ordering a jacket. I am very pleased with mine: an authentic lamb Raiders with cotton lining and no other special features.

i'll contact you soon my friend

Good man, I was wondering when you would take the plunge!

Here's a thought, why don't you easyjet it over and visit Peter in person, get measured and feel all the leathers for yourself.

My own preference after getting my Authentic Lamb:

Dk Brown
LC for length (the Raiders length may feel a little short for modern tastes)
Raiders Collar
Tapered Sleeves
Gussets if you want then
Think about an extra inside pocket and zips on the pockets, you may not need zips unless you do a lot of handstands. The facings keep the pockets closed quite well.
Lamb if you want to naturally distress, goat if you want to artificially distress.
Square sliders.
If you want ride up on the sleeves maybe go for cotton sleeves
The default is Cotton body/satin sleeves. I have satin/satin no real problems though can feel warm from 22 degrees C +.
Think about the facings on the zip, I don't have them but do have demon curl both sides. which also doesn't bother me screen accurate

In the end YMMV, get the right size and you will be happy, you look like a thin guy ride up in the front won't be a big problem. In few years time who can say!

Note: These jackets are made to fit. Unfortunately, if you change in any great way you will need a new one, more so than most commercially available clothes. They are like anything made to measure. Hence the number of people selling and getting new ones here.

Enjoy.

BTW those Aldens are beautiful. I will PM you about a thought I had.

Best regards,

KT

erri_wan wrote:2) action pleats

Action pleats are a crucial part of Indy's jacket. All Westeds have them.

Kt Templar wrote:Good man, I was wondering when you would take the plunge!

Here's a thought, why don't you easyjet it over and visit Peter in person, get measured and feel all the leathers for yourself.

My own preference after getting my Authentic Lamb:

Dk Brown
LC for length (the Raiders length may feel a little short for modern tastes)
Raiders Collar
Tapered Sleeves
Gussets if you want then
Think about an extra inside pocket and zips on the pockets, you may not need zips unless you do a lot of handstands. The facings keep the pockets closed quite well.
Lamb if you want to naturally distress, goat if you want to artificially distress.
Square sliders.
If you want ride up on the sleeves maybe go for cotton sleeves
The default is Cotton body/satin sleeves. I have satin/satin no real problems though can feel warm from 22 degrees C +.
Think about the facings on the zip, I don't have them but do have demon curl both sides. which also doesn't bother me screen accurate

In the end YMMV, get the right size and you will be happy, you look like a thin guy ride up in the front won't be a big problem. In few years time who can say!

Note: These jackets are made to fit. Unfortunately, if you change in any great way you will need a new one, more so than most commercially available clothes. They are like anything made to measure. Hence the number of people selling and getting new ones here.

Enjoy.

BTW those Aldens are beautiful. I will PM you about a thought I had.

Best regards,

KT

I'm 20 right now, i wont change anymore. So i buy clothes with no worries about this.

Tapered sleeves? I'm completely new to these... tell me more

Yes you will, you'll grow horizontally.

Tapered sleeves means that the sleeves are narrower at your wrist than at your shoulder.

VP wrote:Yes you will, you'll grow horizontally.

right but not before 40 years old

Tapered sleeves means that the sleeves are narrower at your wrist than at your shoulder.

Mmh i never noticed that. Is it a raiders basic feature for the jacket? Anyway sounds comfortable expecially for winter

erri_wan wrote:

VP wrote:Yes you will, you'll grow horizontally.

right but not before 40 years old

HA! Dream on!

Joined the police at 21 & weighed in at a wopping 9.5 stone wringing wet
Now after 13 years of rubbish food, shift work, stress & a 4 day a week desk job since 2003, I'm 12.5 stone

My advice? Avoid doughnuts.

& chocolate.

& cakes.

& beer.


Oh, & consider horsehide for the leather of your jacket. Slightly more expensive, but very authentic as a leather heavily used for jacket from that period in time

Come on Skippy. You know that in our line of work, coffee and donuts is the "breakfast of champions"!

erri_wan wrote: I'm 20 right now, i wont change anymore. So i buy clothes with no worries about this.

If only that were true!
I think most people gain weight during their life. The question is whether you are one of the 'most' or not.
Do not be surprised if that size 38-40 Wested does not zipper one day!

Skippy wrote:

erri_wan wrote:

VP wrote:Yes you will, you'll grow horizontally.

right but not before 40 years old

HA! Dream on!

Joined the police at 21 & weighed in at a wopping 9.5 stone wringing wet
Now after 13 years of rubbish food, shift work, stress & a 4 day a week desk job since 2003, I'm 12.5 stone

My advice? Avoid doughnuts.

& chocolate.

& cakes.

& beer.


Oh, & consider horsehide for the leather of your jacket. Slightly more expensive, but very authentic as a leather heavily used for jacket from that period in time

Now WAIT JUST ONE MINUTE!!!

Are you seriously telling folks to avoid...BEER!!!???


Has all that foreign adventuring driven you completely insane!!!!!



Regards,

Al[/b]

Erri,

It is called "authentic brown" for a reason. It IS the color of the jacket in the movies. Period. Under different lighting, it will look different. It is however, a great color. Since it is "authentic", it is the only color for me.

Lamb is what the movie jacket was, and that is what I got. I have had no problems with it, but I am also easy on things.

I have heard so many people say the they had problems with the D rings. They seemed to be in the right position when I got my jacket, so I didn't even bother to adjust them. To this day, they haven't moved a bit. Maybe this is why I have never had a problem with them, because I leave them alone and that is where they formed a place to be. Maybe the people that have problems with them, move them all the time and loosen up the leather. I don't know. It may also depends on how someone is built. Maybe my body shape and jacket size and fit, do not put stress on the straps and so they do not move.

Erri, you look like you are thin and I can't imagine that your body shape would cause the D rings to give you any problems. It is just a calculated guess on my part.

My thoughts on the length. It is not a modern jacket and I am not trying to make it one. It is an Indy jacket and that is what I bought it for. Give me the Raiders fit.

As far as the lining. I like the cotton body satin sleeves. It works very well.

If you want the underarm gussets, you have to ask for them. But you will get one piece gussets unless you specify the two piece gussets.

I didn't get the action pleat elastic and again, I think it may have to do with body shape and size, but I don't have any problems with my action pleats, either. They do what they do. Due to your build, I don't think that you will have a problem with the action pleats, either.

Skippy wrote: Now after 13 years of rubbish food, shift work, stress & a 4 day a week desk job since 2003, I'm 12.5 stone

Hey MEN i'm italian! I dont eat rubbish hyperproteic food and i dont drink beer (yes you heard correctly) so i'm not that worried.

Thanks for the suggestion about the horseide i'll keep that in consideration

Bufflehead Jones wrote:Erri,

It is called "authentic brown" for a reason. It IS the color of the jacket in the movies. Period. Under different lighting, it will look different. It is however, a great color. Since it is "authentic", it is the only color for me.

Lamb is what the movie jacket was, and that is what I got. I have had no problems with it, but I am also easy on things.

....

My thoughts on the length. It is not a modern jacket and I am not trying to make it one. It is an Indy jacket and that is what I bought it for. Give me the Raiders fit.

As far as the lining. I like the cotton body satin sleeves. It works very well.

If you want the underarm gussets, you have to ask for them. But you will get one piece gussets unless you specify the two piece gussets.

What exactly is the problem with the raiders lenght? I'll go for it but i've heard twice about problems with it. What's different with a common jacket? is it just shorter or whatelse.

Mmmh what are underarm gussets? Is it the lining that include the arms?

What's the difference within the silk lining and the cotton satin one?

Thanks to some suggestions... i think i'll be faithful to the movie going for a authentic brown lambskin. Does we know anything about the original lining?

erri_wan wrote:What exactly is the problem with the raiders lenght? I'll go for it but i've heard twice about problems with it. What's different with a common jacket? is it just shorter or whatelse.

There is nothing wrong with the Raiders style length! My jacket reaches the top of my pants rear pocket. It is not really a waist length jacket if you think about it.

Erri,

There is no "problem" with the Raiders length. It is just a little shorter than what is fashionable with a lot of people today. But, for this type of jacket, I think the length is appropriate.

The gussets are one or two piece section of material that is sewn into the jacket in the armpit area to increase the ease of movement. Peter claims that he doesn't think that they make much difference. With or without gussets are both screen accurate. The one piece is just one piece of material and the two piece looks like Mick Jagger's lips. Two piece gussets are screen accurate in some scenes.

The original jackets in the film had cotton lining. The option for cotton body/ satin sleeves just replaces the cotton lining in the sleeves with satin so that when you put the jacket on, the satin slides over your shirt sleeves and doesn't make them ride up your arm the way the cotton lining in the sleeves tends to do. The cotton material is more "grabby" than the slick satin would be.

So what's best within silk and cotton? The cotton prevent the jacket from sliding off right? (sorry for my english )

PS could i humbly ask some pics of these ...gussets?

You can get all cotton as the screen used jackets were, and you can get all satin lining. But, I think that the best is to get the recommended combination of cotton body/satin sleeves. This has the cotton body which is more comfortable for the body as cotton breathes better than satin, but it has the satin in the sleeves to prevent your shirt sleeves from riding up.

Here's a pic that includes both the satin (on the body) and cotton (on the pocket).

http://public.fotki.com/KtTemplar/weste ... ocket.html

The satin is a bit more slippy and the cotton is like any cotton lining more grabby on other cotton. It is supposed to keep the jacket in place better on your shoulders to have a cotton body.

There is also a pic of the gussets but they are only the single piece ones.

Bufflehead Jones wrote:You can get all cotton as the screen used jackets were, and you can get all satin lining. But, I think that the best is to get the recommended combination of cotton body/satin sleeves. This has the cotton body which is more comfortable for the body as cotton breathes better than satin, but it has the satin in the sleeves to prevent your shirt sleeves from riding up.

The mix is a great idea. I wrote it down thanks for the idea

and thank you KT for the pics.

You seem to be roughly about the same build as I was at your age, another 15 years on and my shape has not really changed, I just got a bit larger around the chest. With our slim build, the best fit is obtained with the straps pulled quite tight, and this is the position where the d-rings fail. Without the tighter strap position the jacket flairs out at the back rather than just hanging straight. A satin lining will cause the jacket to slip off your shoulders and annoy you as you will be constantly shrugging it back on. To get the full Raiders look the bottom of the jacket should hang just two inches below the waistline, it looks much better that way too, although I have noticed that most pics on this site show that the most common fitting is about three to four inches from the waistline. Again this is personal preference, but I get more compliments when I wear the shorter version.

So many things to think about I know, but if you get them written down, give Gemma your accurate measurements, and not just the ones they ask for, you will be one very happy person.

Gemma?

She's the fine young woman whom most of your emails and questions will be dealt with by. To be honest she's really thorough, so if you missed anything, or your measurements appear 'out' she will get in touch to confirm.

Deval wrote:She's the fine young woman whom most of your emails and questions will be dealt with by. To be honest she's really thorough, so if you missed anything, or your measurements appear 'out' she will get in touch to confirm.

Ow very nice of them. Well i sent them some questions in an email so i think i'll get in touch soon with her
Thanks for saying

Hey Erri,
Not to hijack your thread ... but since everyone is already submitting last minute advice on Westeds:

Based on a list of options which I've noted COW members submit to Gemma:

Here's what I am leaning towards for my Wested:
Style: Interested in Raiders 80's Fit, but I plan to start hitting more free weights this coming year & don't want to look like James West in my new jacket )
Slides: New black ones with X box stitching
Zipper: I think y'all said there was no option for this (RE: material choice of zipper);
Q: What do y'all recommend with regards to which "side" for the zipper?
Collar: Larger
Gussets: Yes. Two piece
Press studs: Yes - (Q: Any reason not to get these?)
Lining: Cotton body with satin sleeves (Makes sense to me)
Storm flap: Standard
Length: TOD style
Sleeves: Standard
Elastic in the pleats on the back ( still not sure about this ... I plan to 'check out' your Westeds at QM)
Name tag: (Sure, why not? Q: Any reason not to get this? )
Zipper on inside pocket (Great Idea )
Extra pocket for cell phone (Another Great Idea )

Hide: The Eternal Question.
Still not sure ... I already have G&B Dark Goat ... so it would be nice to have another color/leather type.
I've read and considered all your comments on the varous hides and colors ...
However, I'm partial to the darker leather.
Therefore, I'm leaning towards Dark Brown Lamb ...

COW:
Have I omitted any options?

Thanks - Best Regards,

P.S.> Thanks for courtesy thread sidetrack, Erri!

Spooky,

If you lift weights and add muscle, the 80's fit may be a little tight. Westeds are a tight fit anyway. I really don't see a need for the 80's fit.

I like the American side just because I don't want it to be any different than the rest of my jackets. Some folks like the British side because the storm flap keeps the zipper from dangling, and flopping around, and rattling and it is screen accurate. I don't think it makes enough noise to even be concerned with it. It is not a problem on all of my other jackets and it is not a problem for me on my Wested.

The reason not to get press studs is screen accuracy. For example, the Raiders jacket did not have press studs, so if you order a Raiders jacket and have the press studs put on it, it will not be screen accurate. I don't ever zip my Raiders jacket anyway so it really doesn't matter.

The reason not to get the name tag is that Wested's machine that made these tags broke and the name tag is no longer available.

I like the authentic brown better than the dark brown, and I think it looks better on this type of jacket. I suggest waiting until the QM and you will get to see all types of jackets and it should help you make up your mind. And, you will get to meet Peter in person and I am sure he will be able to answer any and all of your questions at that time.

[quote="Bufflehead Jones"]Spooky,
If you lift weights and add muscle, the 80's fit may be a little tight. Westeds are a tight fit anyway. I really don't see a need for the 80's fit.
I like the American side just because I don't want it to be any different than the rest of my jackets. Some folks like the British side because the storm flap keeps the zipper from dangling, and flopping around, and rattling and it is screen accurate. I don't think it makes enough noise to even be concerned with it. It is not a problem on all of my other jackets and it is not a problem for me on my Wested.
The reason not to get press studs is screen accuracy. For example, the Raiders jacket did not have press studs, so if you order a Raiders jacket and have the press studs put on it, it will not be screen accurate. I don't ever zip my Raiders jacket anyway so it really doesn't matter.
The reason not to get the name tag is that Wested's machine that made these tags broke and the name tag is no longer available.
I like the authentic brown better than the dark brown, and I think it looks better on this type of jacket. I suggest waiting until the QM and you will get to see all types of jackets and it should help you make up your mind. And, you will get to meet Peter in person and I am sure he will be able to answer any and all of your questions at that time.[/quote]
Thanks for the advice, Buff!
Re: Press Studs ... Ah, my misunderstanding - I thought they were talking about the studs on the front pockets. Are these studs next to the zipper?
Re: Name tags - that's right, I read & then promptly forgot that one.
Re: Leather type: My thoughts exactly ...

P.S.>
I also have been devising a plan to buy Peter a beer/drink of choice at the QM and somewhere during the subsequent conversation ...
Me: "Oh, what's this in my pocket? Hmm, a clothing tape measure, wow ... how did that get there?"
Peter: "Hmm, yeah right, seems to happen a lot around me ... "
Me: "Hey, Peter, I've been meaning to ask you ... how do you recommend measuring chest size?"
Peter: (To Self) "Here we go again."
Me: "Oh, that's how you do it ... Thanks." "While were on the subject, how do you take the other measurements?" (as I subtly take out my Indy diary and pencil and start to scribble down my measurements )
Me: "Thanks, Peter!"

OK, maybe I'll be a little more upfront about it ... but whatdya think?

I was planning on ordering one next year when I (knock wood) visit Europe for the first time and can drop in at Westeds for on-site measurements.
However, if I can get accurate measurements at the QM, I won't have to wait )

Best Regards,

I'm pretty sure Peter will end up having a few measuring sessions.

Why not get measured? He can keep it on file (you can keep a copy just in case). Then order and pick up when you visit?

Spooky, yes, they are at the top and bottom of the storm flap.

Hey Skippy,

I know exactly what you mean.....I started on the street 18 years ago at 155 pounds (don't know how that compares to stone?) after 5 years or so moved in the 911 dispatch center. Now at 205. Talk about sitting all day long.... Haven't come close to staying away from the donuts/chocolate/beer. Although probably more beer and less donuts than 18 years ago........

The good news is that a Wested puchased back then would have fit me now so it's good that I waited until now to get one!

Tcart

All through high school and college, I weighed in at 165, with a 32" waist...

And then I got a desk job. By the time I was 25, I packed on 20 pounds, and 4" of waist.

Years later, I now have an impressive gut, BUT my Wested fits quite nicely, even though I more or less got it "off the rack." As long as you provide them with accurate measurements -- and avoid sitting all day -- you should be most pleased with whatever jacket you end up with.

Now if only this danged L.A. weather would cool off so I can actually wear it...

Excuse me sirs! What the heck is the 80's fit?


and don't worry spooky, your hijacking is welcome

erri;
You really should check the archives. It's all there buddy.
80's fit is basically a slimmer design.

Regards,
Swindiana

Swindiana wrote:erri;
You really should check the archives. It's all there buddy.
80's fit is basically a slimmer design.

Regards,
Swindiana

Is it something you request in your order? and... is the 80's fit screen accurate?

Hey Erri,

I'm ordering a pair of the Wested Indy pants right now, and I've been chatting with Gemma. She's a doll and, as stated already, she's very thorough and her customer service skills are top-notch. Any questions, she's the gal to talk to...

As far as the 80's fit goes, I "think" that is something that you do have to specifically ask for when ordering for. The looser fit is standard, while the 80's fit is not. But, as Bufflehead already stated, the Indy jacket can be a fairly fitted jacket to begin with. So, having it made smaller may be too tight. But, I've never had Wested make me a jacket in the 80's fitting, so I can't really comment too well on that topic....

I actually had a Wested Cowhide jacket with all cotton lining. It was great, but it definitely seemed to cling to my shirt sleeve underneath. In a later jacket, I had it made with the cotton body- satin sleeves combo and I highly recommend that route.

Best wishes on your jackets and keep us updated on how well things go my friend!

Kind Regards,
Captain D

Well i'm starting to have a more clean idea about it, special thanks to KT . Maybe soon i'll be able to post my choice and then contact Wested Leather Co.

You are very welcome Erri. Always nice to get feedback. Though there have been many others here adding their experiences too.

Big part of the fun is the deciding.

Does anyone here has an "80's fit" wested jacket?

erri, I asked the same question last week because there didn't seem to be an easy to find answer to the 80's cut question. Also Gemma seemed to be almost discouraging me from it, but that might be because it might not suit the average man today who may be slightly heavier built than the average man in the 80's, putting it as diplomatically as I can!). You should easily get away with it with your build though!

There's a picture of Indiana Ken in both an 80's and standard cut jacket in the thread I started called "80's vs Standard cut: Anyone got pictures to help me choose?", which should still be showing on the first page of the Leather Jacket forum threads.

Cheers

Jon

Maybe Ken himself has that pic. He's following this thread so sooner or later will answer

your diplomatic way is very funny Monkey Brain

erri_wan wrote:

VP wrote:Yes you will, you'll grow horizontally.

right but not before 40 years old

Along with the 1st Law of Food Quadrocalorificness

There is the 3rd Law of Ages. Where relativity states that the second 2 decades passes at twice the speed of the first!

your diplomatic way is very funny

I do my best, but diplomacy doesn't come naturally to me!