Club Obi Wan

Hello everyone and welcome to my first post!

I've been reading the forum for a while now and already have my MkVII bag and TAG strap, and the official World's Largest Adventurebuilt on the way (more on that another day!)

Anyway, I'm just about to order my first Wested Raiders jacket and now I have to decide on the specs... I've read all the recent advice about side straps, leather facings etc and I'm more or less decided on that stuff, but what I'm now looking for is a direct comparison of the 80's cut vs the standard to help me choose.

Does anyone have pictures of the same person wearing jackets in both styles (preferably not at the same time!) so I can actually see the difference? I asked Gemma at Wested for the same thing, but I think she thought I was having a laugh or something because I never heard back...

Thanks in advance

Jon

Hmmm...I can't say I've ever seen such a comparison...but someone may in fact have one. Sorry I can't help.

Just posted to say WELCOME TO COW , and I can't wait to hear about the World's Largest Adventurebilt.

J

Welcome to the Forum, MonkeyBrains.
I'm not familiar with the cut you mentioned.
But I'm sure other COW members will soon help you out.

Enjoy your new jacket.

Best Regards,

Thanks for the welcome guys! I'm talking about the 80's cut option that Wested offer (I think as a result of requests from COW members) which is apparently quite a bit closer fitting in the sleeves and body than the standard, the fit of which has been adjusted to be more in line with the way a modern jacket would fit (as far as I understand it, someone correct me if I'm wrong!)

I know there are a few people on the forum who have gone for it, and quite a lot of people have multiple jackets so I thought there must be someone who had both styles! From the tone of the replies from Wested on the subject, it sounded like it might be quite an extreme difference which might put some people off but until I can see them side by side, I won't know for sure.

No pics but the main difference is in the fit. The 80's cut will fit you like the jacket did in Raiders on Harrison, closer to the body, slightly tighter vs say Last Crusated where it was a fuller more baggy jacket. The tighter cut is also closer to the A2 style (the main inperation)

Welcome abord.

Looks like we crossed posts

Cheers,
Jeff

Welcome to COW!

I've heard this beadtime story before. I've been wondering the same thing for a longtime. But I so far have been unable to get any actual #'s on the difference between the standard cut and the 80's cut. In fact I'm starting to wonder if the 80's cut is real.

Actually, I think its just that when you request the 80's cut/fit, Wested just gives you a little less movement room than they would normally. So like you said its just closer fitting.

Actually, this might have solved my problem...I mentioned to Wested that my waist size is small for my shoulder/jacket size (I have an inverted taper ), but it wasn't tapered to account for that. So I have extra bagginess around the middle...quite a bit so. So I usually skip zipping it...especially halfway, at which point it is very obvious.

Maybe the 80's cut would have provided a closer fitting...hmm...

J

I say old boy I believe you've got it!

Lol Indiana Jerry, my Dad has the exact same inverted taper problem and has come up with the same solution although he has added always wearing a tie to keep the top half of his body warmer where the jacket doesn't fasten!

So the difference is more or less Raiders vs LC then? Thanks Jeff. Guess I'd better go and watch the movies again; last time was only a couple of weeks ago, but I was looking out for hat bashes then!

Oh, I can 'get rid' of the extra material by pulling the straps completely tight, but that just isn't what they were made for, so I usually just don't zip halfway.

I own a Raiders Jacket with the standard cut. This jacket has a really tight fit and I wouldn´t want to have it with a even tighter cut. At one point the jacket will be just too tight to move comfortably.
If you give Wested your exact measurements you will get a jacket with a perfect fit.

I would say if you have a reasonable good physique you shoudl go with the a tighter fitting jacket. If not then go with a looser cut.

Ford's jacket in the film was obviously the 80s cut so look at how it fits him to see how a 80s cut jacket should look.

Here are pics of non 80s cut and an 80s cut, although i had specifically asked for a lose fit with the non 80s cut so it might give a bit of a false comparison.

Non 80s fit (as you can see, fairly loose):



And an 80s fit (more form fitting):



Ken

Ken

Last Crusader wrote:If you give Wested your exact measurements you will get a jacket with a perfect fit.

Yes and no. I did just that, but this one item was overlooked. It happens. If I had realized it right away (and been willing to part with it again!), I might have sent it back. It's not annoying or at all obvious. I planned on just discreetly pulling Peter aside on the QM and asking him what he thought I should do. I wasn't even going to mention it here but we got into this discussion of a tighter body fit...

Thanks Indiana Ken, that's just what I was after! 80's cut definitely looks better to me. I'm 5'7 with a 38" chest and 32" waist so I should hopefully be ok with the 80's cut. Now all I have to worry about is getting my measurements right... At least I'm in the UK so it's not going to be as hard to send it back for any alterations as for most of you guys!

I want it to look as close as possible to the Raiders jacket (always was my favourite of the films, plus my AB will be Raiders style). I saw a bloke in the supermarket last month wearing what could have been an Indy jacket, maybe even a Wested, but the fit didn't look quite right to my eye so I wasn't sure. I want my jacket to be as absolutely, unmistakeably Indy as possible and I'm not bothered about it looking modern; 80's fashions are bound to come back in again soon enough anyway, right?

MonkeyBrains wrote:Thanks Indiana Ken, that's just what I was after! 80's cut definitely looks better to me. I'm 5'7 with a 38" chest and 32" waist so I should hopefully be ok with the 80's cut. Now all I have to worry about is getting my measurements right... At least I'm in the UK so it's not going to be as hard to send it back for any alterations as for most of you guys!

You are pretty close to my size there. I would DEFINITLY recommend the 80s fit. When I first heard it I thought it was some strange thing that meant the jacket would be extra tight and fit like lycra or something but thats not the case at all. I think the standard jackets for the public were simply that - standard - and so had to be able to be more flexible in design. I believe the 80s fit refers to the actual Raiders jacket fit meaning that instead of your jacket fitting like a modern jacket it will fit like the Raiders jacket fits Ford (which is tighter). I am sure Peter can clarify this, but if this is the case it means the 80s Raider fit it more screen accurate. I certainly prefer it myself.

Ken

The 80s cut (correct me if I'm wrong) is also known as the Chris King Cut. I tried searching for some old threads on this, but it seems many of the links are not active any longer.

However, Wested should still have a record of the Chris King Cut -- Chris King did a lot of research on the jacket for screen accuracy purposes.

I'm sure if you were to contact Wested about this, they'd give you the details.

MonkeyBrains wrote: I'm not bothered about it looking modern; 80's fashions are bound to come back in again soon enough anyway, right?

Lime green legwarmers *shudder*

Red and black leather jackets with shoulder pads.

Nooooooooooooooooooo!

Let's not forget zippers.....lots of zippers.....and bandanas tied around legs....oh, and mullets....YIKES

Hey, I'm just waiting until I can wear my lime green legwarmers in public again!

Ok, I've finally made up my mind and placed my order for the following...

Raiders Jacket
Leather: Authentic Brown - Lambskin
Lining / Zip: Cotton Body-Satin Sleeves (rec)
Side Fastener: Anodised Black Rectangular Slider(buckle)

Additional jacket requests:
Please make the jacket in the 80's fit style and also add
Side Straps:
X box stitching on the side straps
Pockets:
Second inside pocket
Minimal leather facing on the inside pockets
Back panel:
Top of panel to extend all the way out to the inside edge of the sleeve
seam.
Zip:
Extend almost to the bottom of the jacket hem. No leather facing inside
zip, only on the collar stand.

just hope I got my measurements right...

Instead of starting a new topic I though I'd just add on to this one. We all know that the 80's it is closer fitting than the standard fit. However, does anyone know just how much closer?

If you're going with lamb and intend to wear it in the winter or if you live in a cooler climate, I would recommend a fit with a little breathing room. That way you could add a layer of insulation when you need it. Don't forget to consider layering. It's 27 degrees F where I am today and I am comfortably wearing a t-shirt, button up sweater and my lamb ToD. If my jacket fit any tighter, that wouldn't be possible.
Also, I love your screen name.

Hey Monkey Brains,(that sounds mean ) did you ever get your jacket?

Havana, your right. I have a ToD Wested that I ordered a size up just for that reason and the fact that I'm sure I'll put on some weight. The jacket fits fine when I'm wearing something heavy under it. However, with the average shirt its too loose in the body.

I'd like to see some pics of people in the same positions to get a good idea of the difference.

When you're standing differently, a jacket can take on a new look...

I just got my Authentic Browm Lambskin through the post today and if you ask me it's not really a winter jacket - excellent in all ways but I'm looking forward to to Spring!

Excellent name Monkeybrain - check out a publisher called MonkeyBrain Books, they've just published an anthology called ADVENTURE! (ISBN: 1932265139) with a Fedora wearing guy on the front (sadly no leather jacket...)...

mjcr wrote:I just got my Authentic Browm Lambskin through the post today and if you ask me it's not really a winter jacket - excellent in all ways but I'm looking forward to to Spring!

Definately not for very cold weather. But, I was up in Oldham yesterday and the Wested lamb held up fine with a thin fleece and t shirt. At about minus 4ºC. And I'm a soft southerner!

Yeah, it's been a bit miserable up here in the Frozen North. Did they check your passport as you went through Birmingham?

I guess the Lamb seems lightweight to me as been wearing a bombproof horsehide A2 for the last few months. I'll be coming down to the pansy ( ) end of the country next week though so I'm sure it'll be more than warm enough!

Tone,

Thats a perfect shot of the 80's fit in action! Well done sir.

I've ordered a Lamb in 80s fit, and am sitting on needles waiting for it to arrive

Cheers
Craig

Thanks Tone! I can definitely see the difference. The 80's fit looks a few inches smugger in the upper chest.

Just make sure you the '80's fit' body to go along with the 80's fit jacket. Several folks have ordered it, only to discover it's to tight in, uh, certain areas!

Regards! Michaelson

Michaelson wrote:Just make sure you the '80's fit' body to go along with the 80's fit jacket. Several folks have ordered it, only to discover it's to tight in, uh, certain areas!

Regards! Michaelson

That is an excellent comment, Michaelson. Personally, I am just trying to keep my waist size below my age! Currently, I am on par.

Me too, but only because I passed it by several years.

Regards! Michaelson

If someone is interested in my pics here is my 80's fit (dont care about the sleeves, those are short for another reason)

Thanks for those pics Indiana Tone, those are exactly what I was after! I think it might be helpful if someone could compile a collection of similar photos illustrating all the common options directly compared like that in one thread; it currently takes ages searching the forum to find them all and the same questions get repeated over and over. (80's vs standard cut, different underarm gussets/no gussets, leather textures/colours, leather facing options, pocket options etc, plus Raiders vs ToD vs LC photos). Apologies if such a thread with pictures actually exists, but I never found it if it does! The jacket FAQ is currently heavily weighted towards words rather than pictures.

Anyway, my jacket has arrived and I really am glad I got the 80's fit! Sorry for the lack of pictures, but I was waiting for my Wested pants to arrive (and the freezing fog to clear!). They're here now and I've just got my brother to take some photos, so I'll put them up as soon as I've signed up to a photo hosting site.

Hey mjcr, I never knew about MonkeyBrain books! Whereabouts in Lancashire are you?

Here goes with a couple of pictures...



Uhh, apologies for the smug look, I didn't know I was pulling that face until I uploaded it! That's what a new Wested does to you I guess!

Anyway, here's a picture of the inside, showing the pocket with minimal leather facing and the zip with none as per my request...



This one seems to be loading really slowly, but it is there and it's only 31k. Seems to appear if you refresh this page though.

Great pics! That is exactly what I'm gonna request on my next jacket.

It looks great my friend!!!!

Thanks guys! And thanks for the help choosing the specs in the first place!