Club Obi Wan

I’m looking to buy a new Wested. When I bought my first one I ordered a size 46 and after wearing it a while I realized that I really should have bought a 44 instead. So now I’m wondering if I should order it in an 80’s fit so it’s a little more tapered in the body as my current jacket is quite roomy in the waist area even with the side straps cinched up. I’ve decided to go with the square buckles on the side straps because the “D” shaped ones never held very well.

So what I’m looking for from anyone is some advice on how their 80’s fit does it for them or anyone who wishes they had got an 80’s fit.

Also what is an under arm gusset and a back pleat elastic that is mentioned on the Wested website on the Sizing page?

An underarm gusset is a piece of material sewn into the armpit area of the jacket that some people say gives their arms more freedom of movement. Peter says that it doesn't make any difference. There are one and two piece gussets. The two piece is more screen accurate as it appears on some of the stunt jackets. The hero jackets had no gussets. The two piece gussets look like Mick Jaggers lips.

The elastic between the pleats is something that some people want added to help keep their action pleats on the back of the jacket from staying open. It is a piece of elastic that can be sewn in between the lining and the leather and connects the two action pleats. The elastic will stretch to allow the action pleats to open with your movement and then pull them shut and keep them from staying open. I have never had a problem with my action pleats but some people do. It may depend on body shape and fit of the jacket. The elastic is not screen accurate.

I've had problems with my pleats hanging out and thought it might have been because the jacket was so light. Does having the elastic affect the way the jacket feels when it is worn?

I have also talked to Peter about the gussets. He told me that they made little difference. He said all they did was add bulk under your arms. I've never had any trouble with the action pleats on my Wested either, so I'm sure how helpful they are.

I'm glad you posted this Whiskey, because I too am considering another Wested this summer.

That's a nice jacket Indiana_Tone, very nice. What is the leather? The one I have now is lambskin and I'm not all that happy with it. That and the size are the reasons for wanting a new one. You're right I should have stayed with my suit jacket measurement instead I went with my chest size. What I'm wondering is if I wear a size 44 jacket and my waist is a 34 then would an 80's fit do better by me than someone whose waist and chest size are closer together i.e. someone who has a 42 chest and a 36-38 waist. The fit of your jacket makes a strong agument against it though.


James

that is a nice jacket.hopefully in a couple years maybe i too will have a leather raiders jacket.

I've had the same thoughts about sizing the last couple of weeks, but my conclusion with the two jackets I've had is: Give Peter Your correct meassurements and let him decide. In the long run, he's the man with the experience.

Indiana tone: Your jacket looks great. The Raiders style suits You.
A little of topic, what Fedora are You wearing on Your "little teapot" pose?

Cheers
Indy-K

...Forgot to ask: What is it You refer to as an "80's fit"?

Cheers
Indy-K

IndyK wrote:...Forgot to ask: What is it You refer to as an "80's fit"?

Cheers
Indy-K

The 80's fit is just a little more fitted throughout the body. I think I'm just going to e-mail Peter my measurements and see what he has to say. I'm not worried that the jacket won't fit but just whether or not I'd like a more form fit fom it or a more relaxed drape.