My reblocked HJ

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Sat Mar 05, 2005 11:32 am

I wanted to see what these new HJs looked like in the new state as I have only seen ones that needed a reblock. When I received the hat, it has shrunk and tapered badly on the right left side of the hat. I could not get it too look close to the Raiders hat due to this. So, I threw it on the hat tree where it has resided for the last month. I got some time yesterday, so I stripped it down and reblocked it with steam and here is the result. http://public.fotki.com/Fedora/hats/hj.html

I must say, that the current felt HJ is using is the softest, and floppiest felt I have ever seen in an HJ, and I have seen many of these hats over the years. In fact, there is no doubt in my mind, that this current felt is close to what was used by the original Raiders fedora. It is not a fine felt, for sure, and the sweat and liner are as cheaply made as one can find, which is a shame for such an old and fine name as HJ. I still do not think the block used for these hats is the Raiders block, but the LC for sure. Somewhere along the line, a different block was used on the later film hats. I have noticed that since I reblocked this HJ, I have picked up some taper, overnight, with it just sitting on my table. Not from the front, but you can see it on the side view. I do think that while the Raiders felt was as soft as the current crop of HJs, it was still a more stable felt, i.e, better made. And, I can recall the sweats and liners being of higher quality in the old HJs. Still, I cannot help but recommend the HJ, as it sure is soft nowadays and that name is still magical to me. Fedora

Post by **Ken** » Sat Mar 05, 2005 12:00 pm

Are you offering these yourself at some point then?

Ken

Indycraze71 · Post by **Indycraze71** » Sat Mar 05, 2005 12:16 pm

I hope things with the HJs work out because I would like to get one of these from you at sometime as well. Hopefully in a great ROTLA bash maybe even the Cario street fight stye. Also would like to have one of your 100% beavers in the grey felt...is the color of that grey similar to my Akubra you you did for me or is it lighter, darker? Just wonderin'. Brett

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Sat Mar 05, 2005 3:35 pm

I have toyed with the idea of buying them from HJ and reblocking to a better shape and also putting a good pouce on them as they could be finished better. It they had the same felt that was on the HJs made in the 90's it would be a different matter, as that was cowboy type felt to me. I would not even consider it. It is just the current softness of the felt that I like, and it has that name on the sweat. If they would get a better block, I would not even think about doing this. I figure I would sell the hat for 200 since that is lower than you can buy them elsewhere and that would be with a reblock and pounce. And initials on the bands. I could also get them with 3 inch brims and cut the dimensions needed. I guess if a few of you guys want one, I can get up an order as there is a minimum that I have to buy to get the wholesale price. Oh, I would have to replace the ribbon too as it is inaccurate and has way too many stitches on it. regards, Fedora

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Sat Mar 05, 2005 3:36 pm

s the color of that grey similar to my Akubra you you did for me or is it lighter, darker? Just wonderin'.

It is almost the same Brett. A bit dark. regards, Fedora

Indycraze71 · Post by **Indycraze71** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 12:48 am

Thanks Steve...that sounds like a perfect grey color I like the darker color of the AB's brown too. The beaver felt in grey is still the same awesome feel and buttery softness of the brown beaver I assume? Sounds like the HJ's might not be worth the trouble maybe. I was thinking that I would get one because it was still of good quality and your touch would make it perfect replica hat. I rather go for a higher quality lasting lid to wear for years to come, guess I'll stick to the Adventurebilt instead.

Now to think of what sytle and bash for the 100% beaver grey AB...HMmmmmmmm.... Best Regards, Brett

Indiana Croft · Post by **Indiana Croft** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 4:16 am

Hi Fedora, you re-blocked my HJ that I bought from Waco about 6 months ago and I'm proud to say no taper to this day and that was my main hat till I got my AB.

Now it's the AB every time, need to break it in so it becomes a little lighter in color, man these hats are a nice chocolate brown hmmmm.

Croft

Dakota Ellison · Post by **Dakota Ellison** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 4:54 am

Before Christmas I ordered one from Todd's Costumes. They ran out of stock before I could get one, so I asked would they order me an uncut, unshaped Poet. I recieved it a few days ago. It has the same felt as your's, Fedora. Real soft. No stiffener. There was not any shrinkage that I could detect.
I ironed the brim down a little, then gave it the Swales brim cut, making it about 3 X 2 3/4 inches. The crown is about 5 7/8 inches. I also ordered a size 7 3/4 to allow it to shrink to my size. I put it on my block and steamed a little more stovepipe front and back to it. I also redid the knot on the bow. HJ really needs to get a better ribbon sewer. You are right about the sweatband. It's very comfortable, but it won't stay put when you turn it out.
The felt has a slightly oily feel to it. Is this the wax that HJ told Anjali about? It's just something about the texture. Very soft and floppy, but thicker than my Optimo. The color must be close to the original Sable, a deep brown with a slight olive gold hue in certain lighting. Here's a couple pics:

The uncut Poet. I made the bow look a little better.

After cutting, blocking and shaping.

I guess time will tell whether the felt will shrink and cause it to taper. I'll let you know, but for now, it looks great and for once I got the brim the way I wanted on an HJ.

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 12:38 pm

Yeah, these hats are oiled. You can feel it in the felt. Not a bad thing, although the oiling was used in the past on low quality felt, as the high quality felt did not need it. Same with the powders. Both the powdering and oiling took place in a procedure that was called "luring". Fedora

Dakota Ellison · Post by **Dakota Ellison** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 1:00 pm

How was luring done, and was it before or after the final blocking?

Luisiana Jones · Post by **Luisiana Jones** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 1:55 pm

Powdering, could you please specify or say with other words

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 3:14 pm

I think it was done while the hat was still on the block. It was singed on the block, ironed on the block, pounced on the block and then lurred. Of course, this sequence could vary from hatter to hatter, but that is basically it. Fedora

Fedora · Post by **Fedora** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 3:19 pm

Powdering, could you please specify or say with other words

According to a book, titled Scientific Hatmaking, printed in 1919, the powder part of the luring process was done on lower quality felt to make it appear more expensive looking. This book says that high quality felt did not need it. The powder is still used today, on modern Stetsons, and Gary White uses it too. It is a colored powder that is applied to the hat to make it look better. If you have ever had a hat that got wet and bled on you, little rivets of colored water streaming down your neck, you will know the bad thing about using powder. Just ask Michaelson. We used to think it was just a cheap dye job, until we learned what it really was. Fedora

Luisiana Jones · Post by **Luisiana Jones** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:14 pm

thanks Fedora it seems very interesting, it someone else has more information about that process pleas post here a link or something.

Thanks for all

Dakota Ellison · Post by **Dakota Ellison** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:02 pm

Yes, thanks.