Club Obi Wan

I have two questions for all the Wested owners.
1. How do you wear your sidestraps?
I haven't really decided yet how to wear mine, but I do like them cinched down all the way to keep the waist of my jacket nice and snug.

I've been trying to figure out the s/z folds to keep the excess straps from flopping around but haven't been able to get the strap to go back through the slider the second time. It's just too tight to get the strap through there. Maybe I'm making this too hard.
2. Could someone post some pics of what the s/z folds look like to help me out?

I did figure out at least a temporary solution. I ran my straps through the sliders so that the excess strap goes underneath the buckle and is hidden behind the material of the action pleat. I'll try and post a pic of this later because my explanation doesn't seem very clear–even to me!

Don't snug them up to tight. I've said this before, but it bears saying again...these straps for adjustment of the sides of the jacket so the action pleats function properly, and are NOT made for sizing. You pull them to tight, and they'll either break or pull the seams out at the box stitch or seam with jacket use, and in pretty short order. I've seen to many messed up straps, and fielded to many PM's and emails from folks who have done this to mention. Regards. Michaelson

Wow, thanks Michaelson that's excellent advice. I'd hate to have to send my jacket back just to have the sidestraps replaced. Looks like I need to loosen those straps.

The way I adjust mine is to stand up straight in front of a mirror, then snug them up just enough so the sides of the back panel are hanging parallel with the front of the jacket. The pleats will now function on your jacket properly. Sometimes it helps to have someone help you do this, as a second pair of eyes can see if you've adjusted both sides equally.
I didn't vote in the poll, as none of the responses reflect the reasons FOR the straps, so it all depends....Regards. Michaelson

Thanks Michaelson,
That's good to know. I didn't know this either. I kept mine loose because, for some reason, mine aren't very long.
So, I just don't think about 'em.

2. Could someone post some pics of what the s/z folds look like to help me out?

Sure!
Here is my left sidestrap looking from the top:


And here it is looking from underneath, collar being being far off placed in the distance:


To get the hang of the right strap, mirror the pictures in any good image editor.

The "leftover" leather does not slide under there very easily, at least not on my goat, so you might need to wiggle the rings a bit to get it under there.
Hope this helps.

Regards,
Swindiana

The pics were helpful Swindy, but now I'm wondering if it's even possible to do the s/z fold on sidestraps with sliders. My sliders look like there is a lot less space than those d rings have. Has anybody done the s/z fold on a jacket with sliders?

Oh it's possible, I did it on mine, it's just not at all a fun experience trying to get that leather through those tiny sldiers

I have authentic lamb with d rings and I haven't touched them since I opened the box. I have heard that some people with authentic lamb and d rings have trouble with the d rings slipping if they mess with them too much. Mine were fine where they were when I got it and if it ain't broke, don't fix it. As far as I know, they haven't moved since day 1.

It is quite possible to squeeze the strap twofold through the sliders.

Bufflehead Jones,

I have an Authentic Lamb and have had no problem with this strap adjusting method. Mine does not have d-rings but the accurate rectangular ones. However, my old Wested from way back when has the d-rings and I have to say that the rectangular rings work much better with this method compared to the d-rings.

I've never worked with D rings...but I can agree with Josh on the rectangular sliders...and I wear them shut all the way, as I'm a dang skinny SOB

High Regards, Daryl.

I used to have problems with the pleats on my jacket bulgeing out funny and emailed Wested about it with a picture of the problem and they answered with the fact that I had my side straps too tight. By loosening the straps out it allowed the pleats to hang parallel (as Michaelson mentioned) and reduced the bulgeing. Wearing my straps looser ended my "Battle of the Bulge.."

How tight is your pinch?

Is it just my jacket, or does anybody else NEED to cinch it all the way up?

As I have a slim to medium waist, if the sidestraps aren't tightened to the max, I get an akward ballooned up jacket, which... and I can't imagine I'm saying this, but it basically makes me look fat. And I mean big. For some reason, the jacket seems to be bell shaped, which gives an unflattering appearance.

But while tight straps may make the jacket look somewhat 'normal', it also has the unfortunate effect of giving the leather deep wrinkles at the stress points. No tearing of leather or straps yet, but I suppose this is further advice AGAINST tightening the jacket to the max.

However, is there any way to make the jacket look half as good without having to resort to tightening the straps?

Good grief, Castor, you had to bring back an almost 3 year old post to ask this question? Why didn't you just start a new string?

Regards! Michaelson

I thought about that, but I figured that I'd probably end up being referred back to this thread by over-zealous mods anyway!

Panama Tom Jr. wrote:I used to have problems with the pleats on my jacket bulgeing out funny and emailed Wested about it with a picture of the problem and they answered with the fact that I had my side straps too tight. By loosening the straps out it allowed the pleats to hang parallel (as Michaelson mentioned) and reduced the bulgeing. Wearing my straps looser ended my "Battle of the Bulge.."

Peter will not like me once again mentioning this, but firstly Peter, you are right, I don't have straight shoulders they are droppy and cause the jacket pleat to droop and open like this below. (Not a sidestrap issue)



However I plan to ask Peter to raise the pleat up about an inch which will counterract the droop as below.



Perhaps you suffer the problem of droopy shoulders, as Peter said Ford has straight shoulders.

After testing with a safety pin to hold up the pleat it seems to work beautifully. the pleat hangs parrallel.

Note only a small triangle of material is moved upwards, it does not stretch right across the back. Also it doesn't seem to affect the length.



I wonder if there is a measurement that can be taken to ensure this doesnt happen inthe future.

Any tailors out there know?

Castor Dioscuri wrote:I thought about that, but I figured that I'd probably end up being referred back to this thread by over-zealous mods anyway!

...and yet another dig at the moderators today. What gives?

Michaelson

I didn't mean that personally, maybe I should change that to "over-zealous members"?

Or a another suggestion: I've started threads like this:

I searched for information, and found this old thread here:

<link>

but it seems pretty old and I hate to resurrect this if this should be a different topic.

Can anybody add any further information about blah blah blah?

And then don't take it personally if you are referred back there, at least you made it clear to begin with that you were conscientious enough to use the search engine, and were on the fence about resurrecting a dead thread or starting what some might consider a duplicate. Don't feel bad about that thorny position, being a mod I've learned quickly the meaning of 'Darned if you do, darned if you don't.'

J

Panama Tom Jr. wrote:I used to have problems with the pleats on my jacket bulgeing out funny and emailed Wested about it with a picture of the problem and they answered with the fact that I had my side straps too tight. By loosening the straps out it allowed the pleats to hang parallel (as Michaelson mentioned) and reduced the bulgeing. Wearing my straps looser ended my "Battle of the Bulge.."

Let me pile on the old thread bumping. I have the same problem.



BUT I don't have the straps all that tight...

Something feels wrong about the cut of the jacket. Peter measured me (in person). The chest is right, the sleeves are right, the length is right.

It is about 1" off the shoulder, which I can live with, but then we have the puffiness at the back. I'll try and drop in to see Peter in a couple of weeks, maybe I have the same shoulder droopiness?

As an experiment, pull the straps all the way out and see what the pleat does. I'd be curious.

From the photo, I agree. I don't think anything you do with your straps is going to change that puffiness, but try what I suggest just to see if it DOES make the pleats close.

Regards! Michaelson

Well, considering your body mass, I'm not the LEAST bit surprised!

Like I said, you and I are built exactly the same, my friend. I'm just upside down in comparison to your build now.

Regards! Michaelson

ANZAC_1915 wrote: BUT I don't have the straps all that tight...

Something feels wrong about the cut of the jacket. Peter measured me (in person). The chest is right, the sleeves are right, the length is right.

It is about 1" off the shoulder, which I can live with, but then we have the puffiness at the back. I'll try and drop in to see Peter in a couple of weeks, maybe I have the same shoulder droopiness?

Yup, those are way open, I have the elastic on the pleats and they don't do that, however it's worth doing back and asking if there is anything he can do. IMO.

Kt Templar wrote:

ANZAC_1915 wrote: BUT I don't have the straps all that tight...

Something feels wrong about the cut of the jacket. Peter measured me (in person). The chest is right, the sleeves are right, the length is right.

It is about 1" off the shoulder, which I can live with, but then we have the puffiness at the back. I'll try and drop in to see Peter in a couple of weeks, maybe I have the same shoulder droopiness?

Yup, those are way open, I have the elastic on the pleats and they don't do that, however it's worth doing back and asking if there is anything he can do. IMO.

I've tried them more cinched and less cinched, no real difference.

Looking at Harrison_Davies post, I bet that is the issue. (for ref I am a size 52 long, so yes I'm a big guy but that is all air under those pleats and not a hump. What hump!?)

I also tried the jacket on my wife so I could try adjusting it - she is of course smaller than me and still the pleats puffed out. The cut around the shoulders is not great either. Everything else about the jacket is great (leather, front pockets, collar, front hang).

It does feel looser than the 52 I tried on at Wested though. Hopefully Peter can fix it.

(edit) now looking at _'s picture, my jacket does fit like that on my shoulders, but your pleats are hanging a lot better than mine. I think we're a similar build/size, except I'm betting your build is more muscular than mine!

(edit secret title for Indy IV: Indiana Jones and the Mystery of the Puffy Pleats. )

My ones looked like this when new. Sorry it's not quite the same angle.

http://public.fotki.com/KtTemplar/weste ... nting.html

I'll try and take one of the "classic" angle later. You can see where the elastic is holding the pleats shut it sort's of makes them pucker a bit.

I have the straps pretty loose.

Here it is after 2 years of wear.

Kt Templar wrote:My ones looked like this when new. Sorry it's not quite the same angle.

http://public.fotki.com/KtTemplar/weste ... nting.html

I'll try and take one of the "classic" angle later. You can see where the elastic is holding the pleats shut it sort's of makes them pucker a bit.

I have the straps pretty loose.

Here it is after 2 years of wear.

Well your "before" picture does look like my jacket now. However, mine has no elastic on the pleats.

Still worth dropping in to see Peter I think, just that whole shoulder area feels "wrong".

(Aren't I lucky to live near David Morgan and get semi-frequent work trips to London?)

OK, Peter certainly got it fixed well while I was over there late last week, and was very accomodating about me being able to come and pick it up after he was closed for the day.

- removed about 1" from shoulders, it nows fits like the 52R I tried on
- fitted elastic to inside of pleats
- small dob of glue (not visible and doesn't restrict movement
- tucked in about 3/4" of so of left and right edges of back panel pleat top (per Harrison Davies post/pictures) --- this was much worse on the right side than left, for some reason.

Puffiness gone, the fit and look is perfect.

Nice! Now why can't I find a local tailor that can do that instead of having to fork over airfare to the UK!?!?

Maybe I'm just uninformed, but I never paid much mind to the "hang" of my jackets ,or what the pleats do back there. I just wear it! I figure the leather should eventually conform to my body shape. raider 57

If i'm doing the raven bar scene look were indy has his jacket zipped up and i tighten my straps as far as they will go the i find the shoulders seem to bunch up and give a squared off shoulder look..... but if i loosen them as much as poss then the jacket seems to relax over my shoulders giving it the natural rounded look.