Club Obi Wan

My trusty old leather jacket is slowly dying , so I decided to investigate a Wested Leather Raiders jacket. However, I quickly realized I couldn't do this without help. Will you help me ?

1. Leather: I want the authentic brown color, but what is the difference between lambskin and goatskin?

2. Which lining is reccomended, or does it matter?

3. As far as the side fastener, I've read that D-rings tend to slip. Is this true? And which fastener is screen accurate?

4. Gussets: What are these and should I get them if I want a screen accurate jacket?

Thank you for reading my post and any ideas you might have.

P.S. My first post.

1. Colourwise, they are the same. But Goat is a lot tougher than lambskin. People often worry about scratching their lambskin on branches, but those with Goatskin wear their jacket worry-free(for the most part).

2. Wested recommends cotton body, satin sleeves. IMO, all satin would be too hot. With cotton sleeves, you may have to worry about snagging the jacket sleeve on your sweater.

3. I can't remember which is accurate, but D-rings slip on lamb(and the Indy cotton, apparently) because of the light material. Some people don't have problems, but that's because they leave it alone. If you keep adjusting it based on how tight you want the jacket to feel(thick sweater, looser faster) then it will defineately be slipping.

4. Peter stated here in the forum that two different versions were made. One with no gussests and a stunt jacket with double gussets which were used for the fight scenes. Flathead seems to have a lot of knowledge on leather jackets, so I'll let him answer that http://www.indygear.com/forum/viewtopic ... b394998c83

Enjoy your stay at COW and remember to check your wallet at the door.

i believe the jackets wested made for raiders had d rings but were changed to sliders during production of the movie. so most jackets on screen will have the sliders. they do work much better for a lambskin. i've found that gussets allow me to raise my arms further without my jacket riding up. lambskin was used for the film jackets.

i'm no expert though. others might be able to provide further insight

harry

The point of the Wested lining recommendation is that a cotton body will hold on to your shoulders better to keep the jacket from sliding so much. The satin sleeves are for the exact opposite (and good) reason: to allow your arms/sleeves to slide through unimpeded, and prevent ride-up of the sleeves of the jacket.

I just got mine, and it works just like that.

P.S. WELCOME TO COW!

Thanks for all the response and the welcome.

Is the extra movement added by the gussets worth the extra money (five pounds=roughly $10 American)?

If you're going for gussets, go for the 2-piece gussets. You have to ask specifically for the 2-piece or you'll get a 1-piece gusset as standard.

However, it's a stylistic choice really - whether you fancy having gussets or not; some like 'em, some don't - at the end of the day, they don't make a mammoth difference to your jacket.

I have them on my goatskin jacket, and because the jacket is close-fitting they seem to help a bit. I have none on my lambskin jacket, but that's a bit roomier and movement isn't hindered anyway.

They are worth a fiver for sure - it's a bit of extra work putting gussets in (cutting, stitching and so on) but it's just a matter of choice at the end of the day.

I have both a lamb and a goat. The lamb is lighter in weight, drapes easier (and more accurate) and is hardly noticeable when you wear it. You won't realise it's on. I've worn it in 30 degree weather with a t-shirt and wasn't cold.

The goat is thicker, heavier and you know it's there when you wear it. It's still a great jacket. And you won't have to worry about it ripping as the lamb does when snagged.

Sliders are accurate for Raiders only.

I have all cotton on the lamb and cotton body/satin sleeves on the goat. I like both. Cotton is better for warmer climates as it absorbs sweat whereas the satin will stick to you if you have a short sleeve shirt on.

My goat has the gussets. 2- piece is accurate for the "flying wing" scene and truck chase. It's really a personal choice based on what scene you like rather than a functional one. If the jacket is measured right it doesn't matter if it has them or not.

Ask for small gauge zip extending down to bottom of jacket.

AC

Okay, I've decided on goat. I need a jacket that can withstand a Michigan winter. What would be reccommended then, D-rings or sliders?

antiquity collector wrote:Ask for small gauge zip extending down to bottom of jacket.

What is the difference?

As for sliders or d-rings that's up to you. If you want raiders then go with the sliders (I happen to think they look better).

The small gauge zipper is in regards to the teeth size. Standard zip has large teeth. Small gauge has small teeth (go figure). Small gauge is screen accurate although I forgot to ask for this (I will on my next jacket).

Go with the x-box stitching as well.

There was just a previous post where all of this was discussed. Look on the list as it should not be far down.

AC

antiquity collector wrote:Go with the x-box stitching as well.

What's x-box stitching? Does it cost extra?

What's x-box stitching? Does it cost extra?

It's "X-shaped" stitching on the spot where the pull straps are secured to the jacket. They (the straps) are strengthened by it and it is authentic to the original jacket.
I don't think it costs extra and if you (or they) forget, virtually any tailor can and will do it for you.
Good luck!

Okay, here's the list:

Raiders Jacket
Authentic Brown Goatskin
Cotton Body Satin Sleeve Lining
Slider Side Fastener
Two-Piece Gusset
Small Gauge Zipper
X-Box Stitching on the Side Straps

Did I forget anything?

I've actually been curious about X-box stitching. Does it really enforce strength or do most people get it for authentic reasons?

Okay, here's the list:

Raiders Jacket
Authentic Brown Goatskin
Cotton Body Satin Sleeve Lining
Slider Side Fastener
Two-Piece Gusset
Small Gauge Zipper
X-Box Stitching on the Side Straps

Did I forget anything?

It appears you've covered the details well. Excellent choices.

I've actually been curious about X-box stitching. Does it really enforce strength or do most people get it for authentic reasons?

Both, I think. Authenticity is a must, as we all know, and the x-box stitching helps distribute the force of strain. For a jacket that will undoubtedly be worn frequently, an X stitching is the most ... (how should I say?)... physically efficient stitching. If you pull on it real hard it'll come loose, but for sustaining abuse (intentional or not) from all directions, I'd say it's pretty stable. They're a must for my next jacket.

Oh,

You might want to ask for the zip to extend to the bottom of the jacket.

Also, ask for no extra inside facings at the zips on inside breasts.

AC[/b]

RelicHunter wrote:Okay, here's the list:

Raiders Jacket
Authentic Brown Goatskin
Cotton Body Satin Sleeve Lining
Slider Side Fastener
Two-Piece Gusset
Small Gauge Zipper
X-Box Stitching on the Side Straps

Did I forget anything?

Back panel: Top of panel extends ALL THE WAY OUT TO the inside edge of the sleeve seam.

Collar: NO WIDER THAN 3 inches at the tip.

Cargo pockets: Left pocket positioned 1 inch away from storm flap seam and 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the jacket hem. I would like each cargo pocket to be 8 inches long by 6 3/4 inches wide. The pocket flap to be 3 inches from the top of the rolled seam to the lowest point of the flap. The right side pocket positioned 1 1/2" from the where the zipper attaches and 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the jacket hem.
NO INTERFACING IN THE POCKET FLAPS.

However, I think they may no longer change the cargo pockets so you may get the larger LC ones.

Hope this helps!

I.J.

Indiana Joe wrote:Back panel: Top of panel extends ALL THE WAY OUT TO the inside edge of the sleeve seam.

Collar: NO WIDER THAN 3 inches at the tip.

Cargo pockets: Left pocket positioned 1 inch away from storm flap seam and 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the jacket hem. I would like each cargo pocket to be 8 inches long by 6 3/4 inches wide. The pocket flap to be 3 inches from the top of the rolled seam to the lowest point of the flap. The right side pocket positioned 1 1/2" from the where the zipper attaches and 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom of the jacket hem.
NO INTERFACING IN THE POCKET FLAPS.

Do I just ask Wested to do all that?

This is more involved than I first thought.

But then, if it were easy, where would the fun be?

no changes to pockets anymore. i think you can only ask for a certain type of collar such as raiders or lc not the actual size.

Wow! What's happening to the customization? Is Wested getting too busy lately? If so, I'm glad I got mine before they stopped. I suppose Chris King is as well.

yeah. i guess it is hard to keep up with so many orders. peter also said the back panel extending to the seam is standard now.

antiquity collector wrote:Also, ask for no extra inside facings at the zips on inside breasts.

What does this mean?

The New List:

Raiders Jacket
Authentic Brown Goatskin
Cotton Body Satin Sleeve Lining
Slider Side Fastener
Two-Piece Gusset
Small Gauge Zipper that Extends to the Bottom of the Jacket
X-Box Stitching on the Side Straps

Did I miss anything else?

Peter still customizes your jacket, but he also has to be reasonable. If you want your jacket with a smaller collar or pockets out of place, as screen accurate as it may be, he can't sell the jacket if you decide to return it. I think there are a few people who recently got Peter to take their requests, but I guess you're on your own if it doesn't fit.

Can I give you a bit of advice?

Wested's basic jacket is great.

You could just order a standard jacket in your size and I bet you'd love it.

All the other options are really just that - 'optional extras'.

Basically with jacket orders, it's different strokes for different folks.

With so many options out there, remember the immortal lines: You must choose...but choose wisely!

I pretty much got the basic Wested Raiders jacket. The only thing I added was the extra inside pocket. Otherwise, I gave Peter my measurements, told him my concerns regarding fit, and the jacket came out beautifully! Trust us, Peter knows what he's doing!

bink

One thing, if you are wanting to distress your jacket so it looks as it does on screen, the authentic lamb will do this, but the authentic goat wont.

Ken

ob1al wrote:Can I give you a bit of advice?

Wested's basic jacket is great.

Generally, I want the most screen accurate jacket that I can get. The only reason I'm getting goatskin instead of lamb is that I'm afraid lamb won't be tough enough.

If you want screen accurate you HAVE to go with the lamb. It is a tough jacket unless you catch it on a nail, scissors or something really sharp and pointy.

I did rip mine but have no idea how it happened. It's on the pocket so I was considering sending it back to Peter for repairs.

Inside facings are extra pieces of leather on the breast side of the zipper on the lining side. It shoud be leather outside, zipper, followed directly by liner. The facings would go in this order: outside leather, zipper, leather inside facings, then liner. It weighs the jacket down and I find them unnecessary. They appear to have become standard, so you might need to ask for them to not be there.

Hope this helps.

AC

Well, I did it. I just ordered my Raiders jacket. Here are some of the specs:

Authentic Brown Goatskin
Cotton Body Satin Sleeve Lining
Sliders
Two-Piece Gussets
Left Inside Pocket
No Inside Leather Facing on the Right Breast Side
Small Nickel Zipper that extends to the bottom of the jacket
X-Box Stitching on the Side Straps

Did I do good?

P.S. Thanks for all the help. If it wasn't for COW, I wouldn't know a gusset from X-Box stitching.

I'm glad you chose the goat. I know lamb is more accurate but let's face it---you're not going to put this jacket on a mannequin. You're going to wear it day-to-day and on adventures so the goatskin will serve you well. Lee Keppler even chose the goatskin for his favorite Indy jacket!

You did great, RelicHunter. Remember, pics when you get it are de riguer.

(P.S. I keep thinking of Tia Carrere when I see your screenname...and thinking I should point out Wested has women's patterns for their jackets too...then have to keep reminding myself that probably isn't what your screenname means...)

No one mentioned tapered sleeves ???

Indiana Jerry wrote:(P.S. I keep thinking of Tia Carrere when I see your screenname...and thinking I should point out Wested has women's patterns for their jackets too...then have to keep reminding myself that probably isn't what your screenname means...)

My screename comes from this Indiana Jones style 12" action figure I bought a little while ago off of eBay. It was called "Relic Hunter" for copyright reasons, probably, but everyone can tell it's supposed to be Indiana Jones. :junior:

Thanks for the information about women's sizings, even though it's not needed at this time.

RelicHunter wrote:

Indiana Jerry wrote:(P.S. I keep thinking of Tia Carrere when I see your screenname...and thinking I should point out Wested has women's patterns for their jackets too...then have to keep reminding myself that probably isn't what your screenname means...)

My screename comes from this Indiana Jones style 12" action figure I bought a little while ago off of eBay. It was called "Relic Hunter" for copyright reasons, probably, but everyone can tell it's supposed to be Indiana Jones. :junior:

Thanks for the information about women's sizings, even though it's not needed at this time.

Rats...I was really fishing for an admission that you are really Tia Carrere...hey, a guy can dream, can't he?

Indiana Jerry wrote:Rats...I was really fishing for an admission that you are really Tia Carrere...hey, a guy can dream, can't he?

Sorry to disappoint.