The current HJs

In-depth discussion of the Fedora of Indiana Jones and all other hats appearing in the Indiana Jones movies

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The current HJs

Post by Fedora »

You know, I have looked at every pic posted of the new HJs, and please don't take this wrong, but the block is not right. :shock: I see a great looking LC fedora, but not the Raiders look. Most of these hats, with the exception of Langpuss's, have way too much taper in the crown. Some look "pointed". The current open crown HJs have way too much taper on the front and back of the block, and the sides also have too much taper. Get out your Raiders DVD and look at his hat once again. The new Hjs are not even close, to my eye. This has always been the problem with the later HJs, and nothing has changed. They are digging in the wrong place. :wink: Fedora
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Post by Flattery »

Interesting, I hadn't noticed that before. I'll compare to the film tonight, for the sake of seeing it.

...I take it your fedoras will correct this problem? :wink:
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Post by ANJALI »

I agree with Fedora ...
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Post by ob1al »

It seems to me that it can still be hit and miss with the HJ's - I saw some last weekend in the Swales shop which looked rather good, others which did indeed have some obvious taper - and I'd assume these are all coming off the same block?

My own Replix HJ came with pretty much no taper - it certainly looked very stovepipe to my eye; however, the problem for me has been retaining that look, as after just a short while and few rainstorms some taper has begun to set in.
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Post by Hemingway Jones »

This could account for why some hats are stovepipe and others have a slight-to-serious taper: perhaps some are left out longer and thus have more time to taper. -Just a thought.

Rain is what a hat is for. Remember when we were kids, your mom would say, "It's raining, put a hat on." If a hat cannot handle rain, what good is it?
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Post by ob1al »

Rain is what a hat is for. Remember when we were kids, your mom would say, "It's raining, put a hat on." If a hat cannot handle rain, what good is it?
I couldn't agree more sir.
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Post by Fedora »

I take it your fedoras will correct this problem?

Yeah. That was the only reason that I decided to make them. I have seen way too many hats that missed the mark. The Raiders block is not the same as the TOD/LC block. IMHO. I could care less about the TOD hat, or the LC hat. You can replicate that look with almost any of the current offerings, with no problem. The thing is to replicate the Raiders look, and that takes a different block shape. Fedora
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Post by Ken »

Is this a problem that can be fixed by getting it blocked properly or a fault inherent in the hat itself?

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Post by Fedora »

Is this a problem that can be fixed by getting it blocked properly or a fault inherent in the hat itself?

Good question. Two things yield a particular look. 1) The block shape and 2) the characteristics of the felt used. Of what I have seen of the current HJs, it is the block shape primarily that is making the hat look like the LC hat. It is perfect for the LC hat, because I think this is the block used for those later hats. I think you could take a current HJ and reblock it with the correct block and have the Raiders fedora, but can't say for sure because I have not examined the new felt being used by HJ. It may be, that you would have to change the felt as well. The characteristics of the felt can have an effect on the final look. Just ask Marc. regards, Fedora
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Post by JerseyJones »

Apart from your specialized block Fedora, what would you need in an open crown block ?

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Post by Fedora »

Apart from your specialized block Fedora, what would you need in an open crown block ?

I think I understand. The block needs to have straight sides, which is not that common, except in some of the English blocks. Fedora
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Post by Fedora »

Ok, here is a trait that a Raiders fedora must have. Check out this rear view from my new blocks. Those with a sharp eye will see how this hat differs from most fedoras in the shape of the crown. Like at the start of ROTLA, when he first walks on, and also another good shot is when the truck explodes in the streets of Cairo and you get the shot from the rear. http://public.fotki.com/Fedora/hats/pdrm0391.html
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Post by ANJALI »

Good question. Two things yield a particular look. 1) The block shape and 2) the characteristics of the felt used. Of what I have seen of the current HJs, it is the block shape primarily that is making the hat look like the LC hat. It is perfect for the LC hat, because I think this is the block used for those later hats. I think you could take a current HJ and reblock it with the correct block and have the Raiders fedora, but can't say for sure because I have not examined the new felt being used by HJ. It may be, that you would have to change the felt as well. The characteristics of the felt can have an effect on the final look. Just ask Marc. regards, Fedora
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Hello Fedora,
About the felt of the HJ from Germany...
I bought in August two HJ from Replix ( I already showed the pictures). These hats had the same problem of quality of felt.
The first shrank...
The second is "OK" but the form of the crown is too much "stovepipe"and after my first experience, I don't dare to wear it when it's rain.
But, both have a strange "smell", a sort of perfum...and I'd like to know if the other owners of these HJ ( Replix or Todd's) observed the same thing.
Mr Nick Manning from Herbert Johnson told me that they can have another felt but they apply a "waterproofing treatment"...
So I'd like to have some information about the felt of the most recent HJ ...
Thanks
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Post by Ken »

When visiting Lock and Co at the weekend I was told that sometimes hatters use a very small amount of hair spray to act as a stiffner. Could this be the smell?

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Post by ANJALI »

I don't think so.
My hats were "open crowned"... the perfum-smell is like wet wool !
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Post by Flattery »

Hmm... :-k I wonder if Wilson's Leather and Suede Protector (spray) would work on a felt hat. I don't know if it would stiffen it, but it may help water proof it.
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Post by Fedora »

There are several water repellant treatments available. Many folks use Scotchguard, or Scout. I recommend using either one. It will give you longer between reblocks.

Hello Fedora,
About the felt of the HJ from Germany...
I bought in August two HJ from Replix ( I already showed the pictures). These hats had the same problem of quality of felt.
The first shrank...
The second is "OK" but the form of the crown is too much "stovepipe"and after my first experience, I don't dare to wear it when it's rain.
But, both have a strange "smell", a sort of perfum...and I'd like to know if the other owners of these HJ ( Replix or Todd's) observed the same thing.
Mr Nick Manning from Herbert Johnson told me that they can have another felt but they apply a "waterproofing treatment"...
So I'd like to have some information about the felt of the most recent HJ ...
Thanks
Regards
Anjali

I just got a German HJ in for a reblock. As soon as I strip the hat down and get it ready for the block, I will post my thought on the felt. That smell may be a treatment that is put on by the maker. Most of it has an odor. I also heard a couple of days ago that HJ offers another hat, a custom Poet, that is not advertised. That hat may have a better felt, but I would imagine it is a higher priced hat than the standard Poet. Fedora
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Post by Falstaff »

My 3 year old HJ Poet makes for a great TOD or LC hat, but it's by no means close to the straight Raiders lid. Even my PB Custom has a slight taper to the front and back. The sides are nice and straight, but the whole Raiders look is thrown off by that slight taper.

I've been looking closely at many hats and have noticed a lack of truely non-tapered blocks. In many cases the sides are straight, but that's it. I'm looking forward to getting my hands on one of Fedora's hats because I see that he sees this too. And also I plan to have him turn the hat to really acheive that Raiders look I've always wanted.
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Post by Dakota Ellison »

I saw in another of Anjali's posts a statement from HJ that the felt was waxed and shouldn't shrink. Is this an alternative to oiling the felt? I hadn't seen this before.
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Post by Fedora »

saw in another of Anjali's posts a statement from HJ that the felt was waxed and shouldn't shrink. Is this an alternative to oiling the felt? I hadn't seen this before

That's a new one. Perhaps the English just use a different term for oiling. I am not sure. I just can't imagine using wax on a felt hat. Of course, before I heard of the oiling, I could not imagine that either. :wink: Fedora
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Post by Flattery »

Here at COW, one learns something new every day. :wink:

...at least, I do.
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Post by Bufflehead Jones »

I just bought an HJ from Todd. It is my favorite hat that I own right now. Is it a perfect hat? No. I expect to get a better Raiders hat soon from Fedora. But, it is a nice hat.

Yesterday, Herbert Johnson was the original hat used in Raiders. Today, Herbert Johnson is the original hat used in Raiders. Tomorrow, Herbert Johnson will still be the original hat used in Raiders. There is no guarantee that Herbert Johnson won't go out of business tomorrow, though.

One day, Herbert Johnson may produce for sale a hat that is identical to the one used in Raiders, with the same felt, the same block, the same color, the same everything. If they do, I will have to get one of those, too. But, until then.... I had to get one of these, only a gearhead would understand.
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Post by Renderking Fisk »

I think a lot about the taper problem with fedoras. I believe that it’s one of the reasons why fedoras don’t remain popular as they fade in and out of fashion. If folks could buy ONE fedora that lasts longer or forever and not get the hillbilly look over time, they would still be the standard male headwear.

One of thing we’ve discussed over time is that the problem lies with how the bodies are made and start out as a felt cone, then they’re forced into an unnatural shape. Cheaply made fedora’s have this consent tension and stress to pull back towards the middle, a force that’s held at bay with stiffener. As rain or any other type of moisture removes the Stiffener, the hat slowly turns back to its regular shape.

I believe that the real answer is trying to remove that natural tension. Some more expensive fedoras are made with a few extra steps to do this, and I wish I knew what those steps are. But I think the easiest way to cure this is to leave the body on the block for a while longer, soak it ON THE BLOCK, let it dry naturally on the block and the fibers of the felt with rest permanently in place and the shape of the block would be the fedora’s new “natural state”.
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Post by Neolithic »

Fedora, I have to agree with you. I keep looking at my Replix HJ and see the LC and not the Raiders fedora. It has straight sides but seems to have a little taper in the rear- maybe my head is too long, I dunno... :roll:
My HJ is a 60 but seems quite tight on my head- whereas I've had numerous Akubras in 60 that fit fine. Are your feds going to be more aligned with the Akubra sizing or the HJ?
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Post by Fedora »

Are your feds going to be more aligned with the Akubra sizing or the HJ?
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Uh, I guess it is just standard sizing. I noticed on the German HJ that I got in was a bit on the small size. It was a 7 1/4, but was more like a 7 1/8. It looks like the hat shrunk at the sweat area because the sweatband was bunched up, which would indicate this. Let's see, the Akubras run a bit large, out of the box. The HJ's(going by this one) run a bit small. Mine will be right in between, or perfect. :shock: :lol: Seriously, there seems to be no standard in hat sizing. Mad Hatter's syndrome. The mercury did it.

I keep looking at my Replix HJ and see the LC and not the Raiders fedora. It has straight sides but seems to have a little taper in the rear- maybe my head is too long, I dunno...

I examined the German HJ that I got in to reblock. Since it is a fairly new hat, I could tell what sort of block is being used on these. It is the LC block, without a doubt. What it shares with the Raiders block is the shape of the dome. That is the same. What differs is just the amount of taper in the block. It has a little more than the Raiders block, especially on the front and back. The sides also have just a bit more, with the taper starting at the upper sweatband area and gradually tapering to about 3/8 and inch at the very top. The back and front has around 5/8 inch taper. My blocks taper 1/4 front and back and 1/8 on the sides. The difference in the final product is very noticable. Fedora
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Post by Fedora »

Ok guys. I just pulled this German HJ off the block and noticed something right off. It came off with nice straight sides, but within a couple of minutes, it had developed taper. :shock: So, now I have to do the reblock again, trying something different to see if I can "set the shape". If the second reblock does not help, I will not be able to do anymore reblocks on the new HJ for others folks. You would not be happy with the results. It looks like the felt is poor quality, although it looks rather nice. So now another thought crossed my mind, although not an original one. Perhaps this is the same type of felt used on the last two films and the taper that we see happened as soon as they removed the hat from the block. I dunno, as I have not yet had the caffeine fix, and my mind is foggy. :wink: Fedora
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Post by ob1al »

I think you have that analysis about spot-on Fedora.

My German HJ came with very straight sides, no apparant taper at all out of the box, but the crown had quite a lot of stiffener on it - however, a few showers later and it's already quite badly tapered all round the crown, looks like it's trying to return to it's original 'cone shape'.

The more I tweak it to try and correct the problem, the worse it gets really.

Also, I had to send back my original HJ as it was just too small - I opted for the size above that I usually take, a 58, and it fits fine - so I would agree that the German HJ's run small.

I hope you manage to do something with the one you have there, as my only hope with this hat is to have it reblocked now - only worth doing if the reblock will work!

I have to say, despite my original satisfaction on the whole with the Replix HJ, it has failed it's 'field test' as far as I'm concerned - I would expect to have a lid reblocked maybe once a year, but every two months would be plain ridiculous.

Anyhow, I do have a plan (which kind of fell into my lap) to attempt to have this problem fixed, but I'm most interested to see how your reblock turns out.

I'd love to see a few shots if possible?

Regards

Al
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Post by ANJALI »

The felt of these HJ-Replix is not good... and I am sure that the felt used in the movies had a best quality because I have HJ from this period and I can compare the quality but it's difficult to describe...In fact, the felt is more dense and in the same time not so thick (see picture...) .We can't see "coats" so easily than with the felt used to do the german HJ. For me , it's why the hat can't keep its form a long time...
The block and the brim seem to be good for me...the problem : the felt !
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Post by Marc »

rain or any other type of moisture removes the Stiffener, the hat slowly turns back to its regular shape
Actually the stiffner will not be removed from the felt. It just "breaks" like a piece of glass, allowing the felt to move again. A hat can be set back to its original stiffness with a little steam. This is for the type of stiffner cooked into the felt when it was made. I'm not sure on the stiffner added artificially to the felt later though.
Some more expensive fedoras are made with a few extra steps to do this, and I wish I knew what those steps are. But I think the easiest way to cure this is to leave the body on the block for a while longer, soak it ON THE BLOCK, let it dry naturally on the block and the fibers of the felt with rest permanently in place and the shape of the block would be the fedora’s new “natural state”.
One of the "extra steps" is to take denser felt from the very beginning but of course there's more to it though. Unfortunately it is not done with a soaking "on the block", even if you let it dry naturally until it's dry like a dessert. Felt that isn't tense enough WILL go back to the cone shape pretty fast. It can be avoided - to a certain degree - by artifically making the felt denser (i.e. spraying alcohol on the body and setting it on fire for a couple of seconds), but that will cost you some brim width (or the entire body :wink: ).

Regards,

Marc
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Post by Fedora »

OK, it is final. I will not do any reblocks on the current HJ. Too much trouble with unsatisfactory results for me. They do have the nicest sweats that I have seen on other HJs. Too bad the felt is not up to snuff. Fedora
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Post by Pyroxene »

That's really too bad that the felt quality has gone down hill.
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Post by Fedora »

That's really too bad that the felt quality has gone down hill.

You know, the thing about it is, the felt looks great!! I like the looks of it better than the past offerings. It is not dense at all, but the biggest drawback is the dye job. To those who do their own reblocks, if you ever run into a felt hat that mottles from stretching it over the block, you got trouble. The dye is not consistent throughout the felt, i.e. the core, and this shows up when you stretch the felt. Light areas that almost look like stiffener that has been burned with the pouncing. The thing is, if you burn the stiffener by pouncing, it goes away with a shot of steam. If the color mottles, the only treatment is that colored finishing powder. When I reblocked this HJ, I only used steam, and no water to reblock, so it was not a question of the dye washing out. Of course, a good dyed hat, will not mottle even if you submerge it into boiling water. Like I said, this felt looks nice, but it is all looks with no substance. I just call em' as I see em', and have always done so. So, please, do not take this as trying to sell you a hat. I have no ulterior motive. What I have stated, can be verified by anyone who wishes to reblock one. Now, it may be this hat came from a bad batch of dye. So, this in no way says that all current HJs are this way. Keep that in mind. Fedora
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Post by ob1al »

Fedora, so did you finally manage to get rid of the taper on the HJ, despite the 'mottled' felt?

Langpuss had his Replix HJ reblocked locally, and the results actually looked good - so it may indeed be that the quality of different batches of these hats can vary.

Either way, my HJ is still going to have to be reblocked - at the end of the day, I'd rather have the mottled marking you speak of on a decently blocked, if not perfect, hat than the hat in it's current tapered condition.

Any chance of a picture of the reblocked HJ?

Cheers

Al
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Post by ANJALI »

Hello,
I also tried to reblock my HJ shranked and like Fedora, It's Impossible (for me ) to find again the original form. Each time, the hat became "taper"...I agree with him to say that the felt looks very nice but it is very instable. Really , I won't risk my second HJ when it rains a lot...
However, a person working at HJ in England told me that they try to improve the "behaviour" of this felt and they told me that they have no other felt to made this hat.
I reproduce the mail they sent me :
"Dear Monsieur Pruvot

Apologies for the delay in responding to your queries regarding your hat.

I have looked into the possibility of supplying you with an alternative quality hood but the one we currently run is the best we are able to offer. We are however able to reduce the amount of proofing that is applied to the brim of the hat which will result in a better looking hat. Replix have received a sample of the latter, so I suggest you contact them should you wish to receive this quality. With regards to the problem of your hat as you say drinking water, this we cannot understand as the hats are waterproofed and waxed and therefore should not shrink. If for some reason this is the case, then I would recommend you return it to your supplier, who can in turn return it to us, so we can look into the problem. We will replace the hat if we are found to be at fault.

Should you wish to receive a hand blocked hat, then you will need to contact our London store directly on 0207 408 1174 email: swaineadeney@btconnect.com.

Regards

Nicky Manning
Herbert Johnson
Unit 2
Viking Way Industrial Estate
Barhill
Cambridge
CB3 8EL
Tel: 01954 785942
Fax: 01954 785 9483"
:(


Regards
Anjali
PS : They don't talk about Todd's...
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Post by Indiana Croft »

Fedora wrote:
Ok guys. I just pulled this German HJ off the block and noticed something right off. It came off with nice straight sides, but within a couple of minutes, it had developed taper. So, now I have to do the reblock again, trying something different to see if I can "set the shape". If the second reblock does not help, I will not be able to do anymore reblocks on the new HJ for others folks. You would not be happy with the results. It looks like the felt is poor quality, although it looks rather nice.
I believe that's my hat he's talking about. I purchased from Waco a few weeks ago. Didn't like the block on it so naturally I sent it off to Fedora to a reblock. I asked for a Raiders begining scene look with a turn to it. If in fact this is my hat he's talking about I'll get some pic's up pronto.
Even if this comes back to me half as good a as I belive it will I'll be happy, just need to get some water proofer on it.
But Fedora if any one else has an HJ that there not happy with the look your our best hope for something that does look good. Well I can't wait to get it back to see how it looks.
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Post by Fedora »

OK, and update. I pulled out the Scientific Hatmaking book, written in 1919, and the answer was there. I got rid of the mottling. \:D/ Since this book has much to say about renovating, it was a lifesaver. I learned something today. So, with that being said, I can reblock the current HJs now. :D I can get rid of the mottling. regards, Fedora
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Post by Flattery »

Oh, excellent news! You're the man, Fedora. :notworthy:
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Post by Marc »

I pulled out the Scientific Hatmaking book, written in 1919, and the answer was there.
:?: Seems like I have completely missed this part when reading it. What page are you referring to?

Regards,

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Post by ob1al »

Woo Hoo! This bodes well for us HJ wearers!

Great news Fedora - well done! :notworthy:
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Post by binkmeisterRick »

Fedora wrote:OK, and update. I pulled out the Scientific Hatmaking book, written in 1919, and the answer was there. I got rid of the mottling.
Wonderfull! Yes, which page of the book is it on? I got the last of the reprints of that book, you know. :wink:

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Post by ANJALI »

The manufacter Herbert Johnson confirmed me that the hat used by Todd's is exactly the same than for Replix.
Bravo Fedora for your work !
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Post by Fedora »

One last post on the HJ felt. The mottling issue is a severe one. Luring is the treatment, although it does not produce a 100 per cent cure, but it is bearable. HJ owners who want a reblock will have to live with some mottling. Not a bad thing, if you want the hat to look weathered. If you want the hat to look fresh, and new, buy a better grade of felt. I hate to say that, but it is a fact. The current HJ felt is inferior felt, no density which means it will taper fast. The HJ that I am about to mail this morning has no taper, and I will post a pic shortly. I would be less than honest to say, this hat has been one big headache. It took me 5 times as long to get a suitable hat to mail back to the fan. I am pleased with it....finally. I just would never send back something that I would not want. While I will do future HJs, I would rather not after sweating over this one. So yes, I will do them, but please folks, buy a better felted hat for the long run, and to keep it out of the reblock shop. I don't mind taking your money, but you can save money in the long run by getting a better felt to start with. Buy an HJ, if you must have the name inside, then buy a good felt hat and let me change out the innards. Just a suggestion. You will be much better pleased with the results if you wear the hat, instead of displaying it. If it is a display item, then you are fine. I know that the HJ is the Holy Grail of Indy fedoras, and if they were of the same quality as the old ones like Anjali mentioned, it would be a different story. But, what they are hocking for hats today is a shame, but on par with most modern mass produced hats. To get good felt, you must stay away from the production hats. regards, Fedora
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Post by Fedora »

Ok, here are 4 pics. It looks better than when I got it in, blockwise. regards, Fedorahttp://public.fotki.com/Fedora/hats/hj_front1.html
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Post by Flattery »

Thanks Fedora -- will keep that in mind.

I'm afraid I'm not too knowledgeable of hat felt yet -- if anyone could answer, what are the marks of good felt, be it fur felt or other? I have a black Akubra federation that is fantastic. I suppose I'm looking for something in comparison to that.
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Post by Hemingway Jones »

Fedora,
That reblock looks incredible!
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Post by Fedora »

I will take a stab at it. An excellent felt will be very dense. What I mean by that is, it was run through the felter enough times to have the fibers interlock naturally, and giving them enough time to do so. The interlocking of the underfur has its own natural speed, depending upon the mixture of the blend, or pure felt. Different underfurs have different rates of "felting" (the term used to describe the natural process of fibers interlocking, and shrinking) If the cone is not run through enough times, it will not be as dense as it would be if it were run through more. You see lots of this felt nowadays, as speed of production is the rule of the day, as opposed to hight quality felt. Now, if the factory is really in a hurry, they run the cones through the felter too fast. The natural rate of interlocking and shrinking is speeded up, and this results in poor quality felt too. It is all in the manufacture process. What you end up with, is an underfelt hat, or one that was "pushed" througt too quick. These comprise most of the market on mass produced hats, like Stetson, Resistol, HJs, and the rest. The same underfur is used in inferior hats, that is used in good hat. The difference is the feltmaking itself.


The next thing is the fur content. As you move up the ladder with beaver content, the felt gets higher quality, culminating in an almost pure beaver hat. Nothing is better. The reason for this is beaver "felts" the best of any fur. It is finer, and denser than anything else. Next would be a good blend, using beaver and rabbit, or Nutria, and hare. My perfect blend would be beaver, nutria and hare. Blends are a good compromise for fineness and quality, if you can't afford beaver.


The last thing is the dye job. An excellent felt hat will have nominal bleeding if submerged into hot water. A lesser quality hat will turn the water the color of the hat.
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Post by ob1al »

Wow! That reblock really does look the bees knees!
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Post by ANJALI »

:? Since the beginning, I told that we met a big problem with this felt but ( in august) "Replix" told me I was the first to complain about...I'm not mad, I had old Hats from HJ and I 'm able to do the difference...
Fedora, if you are able to made the same hat in a felt of better quality, you're great !
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Anjali :D
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Post by Flattery »

I will take a stab at it.......etc etc
(didn't want to copy the whole thing)

Very informative, Fedora -- I didn't know anything about felting, but now I feel edified. Thanks very much. :wink:
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Post by Indiana Croft »

yea.

I do belive thats my hat, Got an email from Fedora today saying he sent it out "today", can't wait, that block looks awsome Fedora and I really am sorry to put you through all that extra work, my next hat will be from you.
I never realized that the HJ's of today would be of such infeior workman ship regarding the felt quality. Live and learn I thought that when I bought this from Waco that I was getting an orriginal hat made by the orriginal mfg. For HJ to still produce the hat and then use cheaper grades is a sad. Oh well.
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can't wait.... can't wait. :lol:
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