Page 2 of 7
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2022 7:26 am
by mr_alex
tomek9210 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 24, 2022 7:07 am
Is the sizing true? I mean does the size 34 measure 34 inches around the waist (17 inches when measures flat)?
Nope, it's retail sizing. Go with whatever pant size you normally wear.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2022 8:52 am
by tomek9210
You know that retailers uses different sizing, right?
32 size in one store may have the same waist measurements as 34 in the other one.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:21 am
by mr_alex
...then I don't know how to help you. Go with the size that you wear most often from most retailers.
Basically every pair of pants I own is a size 32 waist, and the size 32's from Karolian Dry Goods fit perfectly. My true waist is closer to 33" if that's helpful at all.
In any case, the answer is still "no" it's not "true sizing". What you do with that information is up to you.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:24 am
by Thunderspy
I guess US sizing does tend to be a bit more generous than European sizing, that's one thing I've found. Especially the Gap; I swear their trousers are a couple of waist sizes up from anyone else!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:31 am
by tomek9210
mr_alex wrote: ↑Thu Nov 24, 2022 9:21 am
...then I don't know how to help you. Go with the size that you wear most often from most retailers.
Basically every pair of pants I own is a size 32 waist, and the size 32's from Karolian Dry Goods fit perfectly. My true waist is closer to 33" if that's helpful at all.
In any case, the answer is still "no" it's not "true sizing". What you do with that information is up to you.
You could help me by measuring the pair you have if you don't mind. Just lay them flat down and measure the waist with a tape.
Thanks!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2022 10:41 am
by mr_alex
Sure thing!
First off - the waist has some stretch to it, so that give you some flexibility on sizing off the bat.
The top of the waistband is at 15.5" and the bottom of the waistband (the bottom of the belt line) is about 16.5". With stretch, the whole waistband expands to about 17.5"
I hope that's helpful!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2022 7:43 am
by Hollowpond
I do love how you are shooting for "screen seen" colors, but what movies or particular scenes did you have in mind when you decided to do the olive and grey?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2022 10:57 am
by tomek9210
A pair of 34 size grey Indy pants ordered on Etsy today as a Xmas gift for myself!
I will write a review once I get the package
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Fri Nov 25, 2022 9:08 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Hollowpond wrote: ↑Fri Nov 25, 2022 7:43 am
I do love how you are shooting for "screen seen" colors, but what movies or particular scenes did you have in mind when you decided to do the olive and grey?
I personally have just always loved the basket chase scene! It captures a lot of the spirit of Indy for me.
I am introducing a new color (they're being made now) that is a warm grey based on a Pantone color I chose.
In the attached photos, I tried to compare the trousers in indirect sunlight with some shots from Cairo - though these are in shadows between the buildings.
Also attached is the approx. of the Pantone color on the existing design
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2022 1:39 am
by tomek9210
I can't wait to get them.
How do you estimate the time of shipping the packages out? Around New Year?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2022 10:00 am
by KarolianDryGoods
tomek9210 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 1:39 am
I can't wait to get them.
How do you estimate the time of shipping the packages out? Around New Year?
Hoping so! Shipping *may* get delayed with the continued glut of shipping issues, but I will definitely post when they are headed my way!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 10:21 am
by KarolianDryGoods
Hey all,
Looks like the Cairo shirts should be shipping in about 3 weeks!
They got delayed a bit, but I should have tracking info soon.
Thank you for the patience!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 2:08 pm
by TheExit148
What's the rise on the Desert Grey pants on the size 30 and 32?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2022 3:40 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
TheExit148 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 07, 2022 2:08 pm
What's the rise on the Desert Grey pants on the size 30 and 32?
The 30 and 32 should have a rise of 12 inches (~30.5cm)
Thanks!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:17 pm
by tomek9210
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Wed Dec 07, 2022 10:21 am
Hey all,
Looks like the Cairo shirts should be shipping in about 3 weeks!
They got delayed a bit, but I should have tracking info soon.
Thank you for the patience!
Any news on the desert grey trousers?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2022 12:52 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
We hit a little snag with the fabric - it looks like Covid has effected the original fabric manufacturer. I have an alternative, but the weave is slightly different and I would like to maintain the same specific cavalry weave to the material.
I should have more info soon - my rep is reaching out to their fabric distributors to find an alternative.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2022 1:34 pm
by tomek9210
Cool!
Do you have a closeup photo of the olive colored fabric?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Fri Dec 09, 2022 10:20 am
by KarolianDryGoods
I will grab a photo of the olive fabric today!
I just got word from my rep about some alternative manufacturers for the cavalry twill, and it looks exactly the same in terms of weave to the first run. 280gsm, and cotton.
Now, I don't have formal training in textiles, so I am under the impression that 100% cotton *can* actually be a blend. I'm not sure if it's like a moving target like "organic" has become.
The way the waistband is designed on these requires some give, so I imagine they are using an elastic thread in portions as well.
I ran into this issue when sewing my first couple pairs as examples for them. The waistband likes to bunch up a bit if there is no give.
I also received my shipping notice for the second run of V Adventure shirts (in a new cotton! Slightly less pink in the undertones) and the Cairo shirts.
It's going to be a busy few weeks!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2022 9:23 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
I'll have better photos tomorrow, but the batch has landed!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 8:53 am
by Indiana Croft
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 4:16 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Losing light quickly here in New England right now, but I was able to gear up quickly and snap a few photos of the new Cairo shirt.
Breakdown of the gear:
Hat - Self Made, Rabbit, unlined
Shirt - Cairo Adventure shirt from my Surplus Line (Large)
Jacket - Wested Legacy Hero (44)
Bag - WPG bag
Bag Strap - Self Made, 3/4oz Latigo
Trouser Belt - Self Made
Pistol Belt - Self Made - 9/10oz Latigo
Whip Holder - Self Made - 3/4oz Latigo
Holster - Self Made - 8oz Veg Tanned Leather
Gloves - Surplus Line gloves - weathered with graphite powder, leather dye, oil
Trousers - Surplus Line Olive Trousers (38) As you can see, the color shift is pretty substantial depending on the lighting and exposure. But I think the photo without the jacket really shows the contrast in the Raiders style shirt and trousers
Boots - Wested
Whip - Townsend Whip 8ft Kangaroo (need to replace the cracker and fall)
I am 5'11" and 225lbs for sizing reference!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 6:51 pm
by Indiana Croft
Lookin good.
Kinda looks like my back yard.
Croft
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 2:19 am
by tomek9210
Any chance for that close up photo?
Are there any news on the grey trousers?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Wed Dec 21, 2022 10:11 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
tomek9210 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 21, 2022 2:19 am
Any chance for that close up photo?
Are there any news on the grey trousers?
Sorry for the delay! Here is a close up photo of the fabric and a pair that was in progress that is shot close up.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2022 6:53 am
by tomek9210
Wow, it looks perfect! I can't wait to get my pair!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 10:58 am
by Indiana Croft
Have received my Indy pants olive version and my Ciro shirt.
Shirt fit great, I may adjust the cuff buttons out a bit, to make it a little loser around the wrist.
My only criticism would be to have the manufacture make the button holes a bit longer,(or always have a slight issue pushing the buttons through, like forcing them.
Button size on a Azuma is just at 7/16" and the Cairo from Karolian are just at 9/16" (sorry I don't do mm
), so either source smaller buttons or make the holes just a bit longer.
But I love the color, and I should try taking a picture next a NH that i used the re-dye process, when I looked at them, it's close.
The pants.
Well there not Calvary Twill, but a nice heavy like cotton.
Calvary Twill have a loose drape tendency and the cotton are like a pair of jeans (but not as stiff) on how they drape.
There going to the seamstress to have the pants hemmed.
* recommendation would to have your pants un-hemmed, so the individual can have sized properly.
But I'm going to enjoy these as a anytime pair of pants to wear, I don't wear my Todds much, I do, just not as much.
The color, is darker, but is olive based and seeing as I love OD, I'm going to like these.
I went 34 waist (typically I do 33) there's a stretch to them and while they fit, and hoping with a belt they'll be fine.
Going to try a gear up soon.
Some asked about a color, so here's my Todd (RH) vs Karolian (LH)
Thank you sir for creating these pants and shirts at price affordable to all.
Croft
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 11:30 am
by Holt
Looks fantastic! Please do a crusade.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 12:50 pm
by Indiana Croft
Who me, or are saying that to Karoline.
Croft
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 1:02 pm
by Beswick
I received my Cairo shirt as well, overall I really like it. I got it in XS. I'm thin, 5'10 160lb so my issues may be unique to my build. The cuffs are too small, I can't fit my hands through when buttoned. Not really a huge issue on this shirt as it's meant to be worn with rolled cuffs. I found the length to be a little short as well, this shirt does not stay tucked in very well. I think the front/back tail should be a little longer and more oval, the hem is a little too straight. The shoulder, arm length, and chest all fit pretty well. I really like the fabric, it wrinkles perfectly and the color is great. With a couple tweaks I think the shirt would be perfect.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 8:39 pm
by Beswick
Here's a couple pics wearing the shirt in Streets of Cairo gear
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 8:43 pm
by Mikeynts
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 12:39 pm
by IndianaJustin
Beswick wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 8:39 pm
Here's a couple pics wearing the shirt in Streets of Cairo gear
Looks great.
Ah, to be thin again...
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:47 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Hey gang,
Glad the shirts are starting to roll in!
Up top, I need to apologize if you purchased a shirt on Etsy.
I accidentally uploaded the original sample photos to the listing - prior to removing the last button on the front placket to make it a bit more accurate to Raiders. This is totally on me if you purchased on Etsy and were expecting the last button.
There should be an extra button sewn onto the tag on the side seam if you would like to add it.
I had a few questions pop up that I want to address to help folks who may be on the fence, or maybe want a more practical shirt.
I tried to get these shirts as close as I could to the screen used Raiders shirts as was possible being manufactured. I even was able to confirm that Dietrich is wearing the same design shirt under his uniform. I'm not sure if that's been discussed before (while I've been sewing my own Indy shirts since around 2017, I am way more active in Solo costuming than Indy)
But I used that to help determine some colors/cut as well as photos of Harrison Ford of course.
Some quirks to this shirt that may be impractical or cumbersome for some folks:
Button placement - as I mentioned, I nixed the last button. I'm not sure if maybe this was done to have it look better untucked?
Buttons - this is one thing that I am really happy with, but also want to improve on hah. The shape and color of these buttons is something that worked out really well. They are shockingly hard to find. So they *are* a little large, but I think the color shirt on them and contrast with the fabric works well. But I would love to have them made a bit smaller in the future. Eventually, I'd like to add buttons in a material I think is dead on to the screen used ones, but it'll take a lot of back and forth with button manufacturers to get them right and a quantity I can afford.
Sleeve length - the shirts seem to have fairly short sleeves, even though Ford is very trim in Raiders. The bias placket is also more delicate than a typical placket, so like the Azuma, be careful when pulling the rolled sleeves up.
Cuff and placket - this area is definitely the trickiest part of the shirt. The sleeves seem pretty slim, and the placket is very short. It seems to be about the same length as the cuff itself. That definitely makes it difficult to roll. But I wanted to avoid having a long placket, and one with a button - only having a button on the cuff.
The Hem - this was one area where I went for a little middle ground. The screen used shirts have a big scallop to them so the tails hang pretty low compared to the side seam. In the photos of screen used shirts you can see the beginning of the cuff hits around the side seam hem. So overall, I went a little longer than the screen used, but the "tails" aren't as long. This is more a result of manufacturing needs. The more steps/design changes, the higher the price per unit.
Epaulets - this is a big sticking point with myself and I know Indy fans for sure. I tried to get these Raiders ones as long as possible (they are all a little different film to film). But the shirts are made in really small numbers - so the materials are cut with the fabric in stacks where things like epaulets, pockets, etc don't scale.
I reallllly am trying to keep these items as reasonably priced as possible. For years and years, I made absolutely everything myself (and built up a pretty good reputation in the Solo costuming community), and I always told myself if I was going to partner with a manufacturer, I wanted to keep the pricing reasonable and respectful for my buyers comparing a similar item to one I hand make.
Attached are two photos that I think show the quirks on the screen used items well.
I know I'll never please everyone with a manufactured item. Everyone's fit is different, and so are their *must haves* and their *close enoughs* in terms of accuracy for items. They also need to jive with your other items for the costume.
But I am hoping that wall of texts helps folks make a decision - especially as I couldn't really post in all the forums/FB groups with how the development process went for these shirts. The lead time for a small operation like myself is long enough that folks with more resources can develop them faster.
That is also why I made some choices that made my offerings a bit unique - like the trousers being cotton, and their details and construction being VERY accurate to Raiders, but they are a bit slimmer and have a slightly higher crotch than others (took a lot of feedback Todds got in terms of the fit into account on these)
Anyhow, always feel free to discuss these details, tag me, critique, ask me questions! I do get a little overwhelmed at times with questions/inquiries when my plate is full, but I am always open to talking shop!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:55 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Holt wrote: ↑Sat Dec 31, 2022 11:30 am
Looks fantastic! Please do a crusade.
Not sure if this was directed at me, but it is on my list!
I'd love to do TOD as well, but that one seems to be constructed a bit differently - correct? The pleats on the front are stitched over the pockets?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:57 pm
by Holt
It was directed at you. I need some LC pants. There arent too many options out there. We need more!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2023 9:32 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Holt wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:57 pm
It was directed at you. I need some LC pants. There arent too many options out there. We need more!
I haven't quite dug into those quite yet!
But perhaps I can get to em this year!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 4:42 am
by tomek9210
Croft, what lightning did you use in your photos? Pants look super light in color.
Adam, any news on the production of the desert grey pants?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:13 am
by Indiana Croft
Tomek9210 :
Croft, what lightning did you use in your photos? Pants look super light in color.
The picture was taken out on my deck with cloud cover, they are a little darker than the picture.
The below pictures also taken under cloud cover, hey it was January 1st and it was 50deg. out, took some shots while I could.
Now my good sir Karolian, the shirt is awesome and none of my comments were not meant to be hurtful, but I belive you know that.
Yes the sleeves are snug, as is the cuff.
The button are the right color, if you can't source smaller, could the Mfg. make the hole a little larger
The pants, other than having to be re-hemmed, just to long, but I figured I would have to, this is why I mentioned that you
should send them un-hemmed (maybe as an option). But this was the first time I wore them any length of time, these are
very comfortable pant, very comfortable.
If the grey are the same material, I just might have to buy a pair as well.
My Todds Calvry Twill are nice, they are the pants, but for some reason when I wear them to work, they fell very
different, like not the kind of pants you wear to work.
Yours are perfect for every day wear. And like them.
Here's some shot out the ol rock pile.
Shot of the rear pocket. Canyon, be nice.
Croft
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:46 am
by IndianaJustin
I agree with the sentiments about the olive trousers, very comfortable. I use them in my everyday rotation, really like em. Can't speak to SA but I'm not too into that. They look good to me, either right on or close enough. I've got the gray ones coming and looking forward to them especially if they're like the olive ones. Thanks Karolian.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:45 am
by Howard Weinstein
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:47 pm
Hey gang,
Glad the shirts are starting to roll in!
Up top, I need to apologize if you purchased a shirt on Etsy.
I accidentally uploaded the original sample photos to the listing - prior to removing the last button on the front placket to make it a bit more accurate to Raiders. This is totally on me if you purchased on Etsy and were expecting the last button.
There should be an extra button sewn onto the tag on the side seam if you would like to add it.
I had a few questions pop up that I want to address to help folks who may be on the fence, or maybe want a more practical shirt.
I tried to get these shirts as close as I could to the screen used Raiders shirts as was possible being manufactured. I even was able to confirm that Dietrich is wearing the same design shirt under his uniform. I'm not sure if that's been discussed before (while I've been sewing my own Indy shirts since around 2017, I am way more active in Solo costuming than Indy)
But I used that to help determine some colors/cut as well as photos of Harrison Ford of course.
Some quirks to this shirt that may be impractical or cumbersome for some folks:
Button placement - as I mentioned, I nixed the last button. I'm not sure if maybe this was done to have it look better untucked?
Buttons - this is one thing that I am really happy with, but also want to improve on hah. The shape and color of these buttons is something that worked out really well. They are shockingly hard to find. So they *are* a little large, but I think the color shirt on them and contrast with the fabric works well. But I would love to have them made a bit smaller in the future. Eventually, I'd like to add buttons in a material I think is dead on to the screen used ones, but it'll take a lot of back and forth with button manufacturers to get them right and a quantity I can afford.
Sleeve length - the shirts seem to have fairly short sleeves, even though Ford is very trim in Raiders. The bias placket is also more delicate than a typical placket, so like the Azuma, be careful when pulling the rolled sleeves up.
Cuff and placket - this area is definitely the trickiest part of the shirt. The sleeves seem pretty slim, and the placket is very short. It seems to be about the same length as the cuff itself. That definitely makes it difficult to roll. But I wanted to avoid having a long placket, and one with a button - only having a button on the cuff.
The Hem - this was one area where I went for a little middle ground. The screen used shirts have a big scallop to them so the tails hang pretty low compared to the side seam. In the photos of screen used shirts you can see the beginning of the cuff hits around the side seam hem. So overall, I went a little longer than the screen used, but the "tails" aren't as long. This is more a result of manufacturing needs. The more steps/design changes, the higher the price per unit.
Epaulets - this is a big sticking point with myself and I know Indy fans for sure. I tried to get these Raiders ones as long as possible (they are all a little different film to film). But the shirts are made in really small numbers - so the materials are cut with the fabric in stacks where things like epaulets, pockets, etc don't scale.
I reallllly am trying to keep these items as reasonably priced as possible. For years and years, I made absolutely everything myself (and built up a pretty good reputation in the Solo costuming community), and I always told myself if I was going to partner with a manufacturer, I wanted to keep the pricing reasonable and respectful for my buyers comparing a similar item to one I hand make.
Attached are two photos that I think show the quirks on the screen used items well.
I know I'll never please everyone with a manufactured item. Everyone's fit is different, and so are their *must haves* and their *close enoughs* in terms of accuracy for items. They also need to jive with your other items for the costume.
But I am hoping that wall of texts helps folks make a decision - especially as I couldn't really post in all the forums/FB groups with how the development process went for these shirts. The lead time for a small operation like myself is long enough that folks with more resources can develop them faster.
That is also why I made some choices that made my offerings a bit unique - like the trousers being cotton, and their details and construction being VERY accurate to Raiders, but they are a bit slimmer and have a slightly higher crotch than others (took a lot of feedback Todds got in terms of the fit into account on these)
Anyhow, always feel free to discuss these details, tag me, critique, ask me questions! I do get a little overwhelmed at times with questions/inquiries when my plate is full, but I am always open to talking shop!
Adam, thanks
for sharing some of the many decisions and choices involved in designing and manufacturing items like these, where they're not one-offs but neither are they mass produced in huge numbers. For those of us (I imagine most of us) who don't sew our own costumes, we're unaware of the nitty-gritty details and why certain choices may be dictated by practical considerations.
Your experience with finding the right buttons confirms what I've found in searching for replacement buttons for the Classic Adventure Shirt second I bought from you -- it's REALLY hard to find buttons that are the right color, size and design for an Indy shirt!
Also, by keeping the prices as reasonable as possible, you're doing the Indy community the favor of making good quality products more affordable, so thanks for that as well!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 12:18 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
tomek9210 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 4:42 am
Croft, what lightning did you use in your photos? Pants look super light in color.
Adam, any news on the production of the desert grey pants?
I should have the samples in on Wednesday night!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 1:34 pm
by tomek9210
Perfect color for me
Thank you for the update
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 3:49 pm
by IJJTM
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 9:32 pm
Holt wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:57 pm
It was directed at you. I need some LC pants. There arent too many options out there. We need more!
I haven't quite dug into those quite yet!
But perhaps I can get to em this year!
Weren’t your dark khaki prototypes meant to be LC?
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 8:59 pm
by Beswick
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:47 pm
Hey gang,
Glad the shirts are starting to roll in!
Up top, I need to apologize if you purchased a shirt on Etsy.
I accidentally uploaded the original sample photos to the listing - prior to removing the last button on the front placket to make it a bit more accurate to Raiders. This is totally on me if you purchased on Etsy and were expecting the last button.
There should be an extra button sewn onto the tag on the side seam if you would like to add it.
I had a few questions pop up that I want to address to help folks who may be on the fence, or maybe want a more practical shirt.
I tried to get these shirts as close as I could to the screen used Raiders shirts as was possible being manufactured. I even was able to confirm that Dietrich is wearing the same design shirt under his uniform. I'm not sure if that's been discussed before (while I've been sewing my own Indy shirts since around 2017, I am way more active in Solo costuming than Indy)
But I used that to help determine some colors/cut as well as photos of Harrison Ford of course.
Some quirks to this shirt that may be impractical or cumbersome for some folks:
Button placement - as I mentioned, I nixed the last button. I'm not sure if maybe this was done to have it look better untucked?
Buttons - this is one thing that I am really happy with, but also want to improve on hah. The shape and color of these buttons is something that worked out really well. They are shockingly hard to find. So they *are* a little large, but I think the color shirt on them and contrast with the fabric works well. But I would love to have them made a bit smaller in the future. Eventually, I'd like to add buttons in a material I think is dead on to the screen used ones, but it'll take a lot of back and forth with button manufacturers to get them right and a quantity I can afford.
Sleeve length - the shirts seem to have fairly short sleeves, even though Ford is very trim in Raiders. The bias placket is also more delicate than a typical placket, so like the Azuma, be careful when pulling the rolled sleeves up.
Cuff and placket - this area is definitely the trickiest part of the shirt. The sleeves seem pretty slim, and the placket is very short. It seems to be about the same length as the cuff itself. That definitely makes it difficult to roll. But I wanted to avoid having a long placket, and one with a button - only having a button on the cuff.
The Hem - this was one area where I went for a little middle ground. The screen used shirts have a big scallop to them so the tails hang pretty low compared to the side seam. In the photos of screen used shirts you can see the beginning of the cuff hits around the side seam hem. So overall, I went a little longer than the screen used, but the "tails" aren't as long. This is more a result of manufacturing needs. The more steps/design changes, the higher the price per unit.
Epaulets - this is a big sticking point with myself and I know Indy fans for sure. I tried to get these Raiders ones as long as possible (they are all a little different film to film). But the shirts are made in really small numbers - so the materials are cut with the fabric in stacks where things like epaulets, pockets, etc don't scale.
I reallllly am trying to keep these items as reasonably priced as possible. For years and years, I made absolutely everything myself (and built up a pretty good reputation in the Solo costuming community), and I always told myself if I was going to partner with a manufacturer, I wanted to keep the pricing reasonable and respectful for my buyers comparing a similar item to one I hand make.
Attached are two photos that I think show the quirks on the screen used items well.
I know I'll never please everyone with a manufactured item. Everyone's fit is different, and so are their *must haves* and their *close enoughs* in terms of accuracy for items. They also need to jive with your other items for the costume.
But I am hoping that wall of texts helps folks make a decision - especially as I couldn't really post in all the forums/FB groups with how the development process went for these shirts. The lead time for a small operation like myself is long enough that folks with more resources can develop them faster.
That is also why I made some choices that made my offerings a bit unique - like the trousers being cotton, and their details and construction being VERY accurate to Raiders, but they are a bit slimmer and have a slightly higher crotch than others (took a lot of feedback Todds got in terms of the fit into account on these)
Anyhow, always feel free to discuss these details, tag me, critique, ask me questions! I do get a little overwhelmed at times with questions/inquiries when my plate is full, but I am always open to talking shop!
Thanks for shining light on the development process/choices. I appreciate the dedication to screen accuracy, I think overall you made a really great shirt! The community is lucky to have someone put so much effort into developing new Indy gear!
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:56 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
IJJTM wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 3:49 pm
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 9:32 pm
Holt wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:57 pm
It was directed at you. I need some LC pants. There arent too many options out there. We need more!
I haven't quite dug into those quite yet!
But perhaps I can get to em this year!
Weren’t your dark khaki prototypes meant to be LC?
Well, I wasn't entirely sure how they'd look when they arrived. No matter how well you take photos, it's always a gamble on what materials will look like in person.
The cost of shipping one sample vs several is the same, and kinda expensive, so I ordered two colors.
It's been my experience that the manufacturers are hesitant to send the booklets of fabric swatches to newer clients because it can effect their relationship with the textile manufacturers/you could take that fabric to another manufacturer, spending time with tire kickers, etc.
It's also tricky when you are ordering a low number of units. Compared to a larger business (even a small company) that's placing orders for 1k+ units.
Design wise, the two initial sample trousers are the same.
It looks to me like the pocket placement and darts on TOD is different. But I am not sure how that was done on the Crusade trousers. I also want to make sure the way the waistband is constructed is the same. That was one thing that made sewing my pairs tricky, and was helped with the stretch of the thread and material used.
I haven't dug too far into Crusade beyond the shirt so far.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:10 pm
by IJJTM
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:56 pm
IJJTM wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 3:49 pm
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 9:32 pm
Holt wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:57 pm
It was directed at you. I need some LC pants. There arent too many options out there. We need more!
I haven't quite dug into those quite yet!
But perhaps I can get to em this year!
Weren’t your dark khaki prototypes meant to be LC?
Well, I wasn't entirely sure how they'd look when they arrived. No matter how well you take photos, it's always a gamble on what materials will look like in person.
The cost of shipping one sample vs several is the same, and kinda expensive, so I ordered two colors.
It's been my experience that the manufacturers are hesitant to send the booklets of fabric swatches to newer clients because it can effect their relationship with the textile manufacturers/you could take that fabric to another manufacturer, spending time with tire kickers, etc.
It's also tricky when you are ordering a low number of units. Compared to a larger business (even a small company) that's placing orders for 1k+ units.
Design wise, the two initial sample trousers are the same.
It looks to me like the pocket placement and darts on TOD is different. But I am not sure how that was done on the Crusade trousers. I also want to make sure the way the waistband is constructed is the same. That was one thing that made sewing my pairs tricky, and was helped with the stretch of the thread and material used.
I haven't dug too far into Crusade beyond the shirt so far.
Gotcha, I didn’t realize the whole process of it. From my understanding, the CS and LC shirts/pants are essentially the same, just minor differences between different manufacturers.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:14 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Beswick wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 8:59 pm
KarolianDryGoods wrote: ↑Sun Jan 01, 2023 8:47 pm
Hey gang,
Glad the shirts are starting to roll in!
Up top, I need to apologize if you purchased a shirt on Etsy.
I accidentally uploaded the original sample photos to the listing - prior to removing the last button on the front placket to make it a bit more accurate to Raiders. This is totally on me if you purchased on Etsy and were expecting the last button.
There should be an extra button sewn onto the tag on the side seam if you would like to add it.
I had a few questions pop up that I want to address to help folks who may be on the fence, or maybe want a more practical shirt.
I tried to get these shirts as close as I could to the screen used Raiders shirts as was possible being manufactured. I even was able to confirm that Dietrich is wearing the same design shirt under his uniform. I'm not sure if that's been discussed before (while I've been sewing my own Indy shirts since around 2017, I am way more active in Solo costuming than Indy)
But I used that to help determine some colors/cut as well as photos of Harrison Ford of course.
Some quirks to this shirt that may be impractical or cumbersome for some folks:
Button placement - as I mentioned, I nixed the last button. I'm not sure if maybe this was done to have it look better untucked?
Buttons - this is one thing that I am really happy with, but also want to improve on hah. The shape and color of these buttons is something that worked out really well. They are shockingly hard to find. So they *are* a little large, but I think the color shirt on them and contrast with the fabric works well. But I would love to have them made a bit smaller in the future. Eventually, I'd like to add buttons in a material I think is dead on to the screen used ones, but it'll take a lot of back and forth with button manufacturers to get them right and a quantity I can afford.
Sleeve length - the shirts seem to have fairly short sleeves, even though Ford is very trim in Raiders. The bias placket is also more delicate than a typical placket, so like the Azuma, be careful when pulling the rolled sleeves up.
Cuff and placket - this area is definitely the trickiest part of the shirt. The sleeves seem pretty slim, and the placket is very short. It seems to be about the same length as the cuff itself. That definitely makes it difficult to roll. But I wanted to avoid having a long placket, and one with a button - only having a button on the cuff.
The Hem - this was one area where I went for a little middle ground. The screen used shirts have a big scallop to them so the tails hang pretty low compared to the side seam. In the photos of screen used shirts you can see the beginning of the cuff hits around the side seam hem. So overall, I went a little longer than the screen used, but the "tails" aren't as long. This is more a result of manufacturing needs. The more steps/design changes, the higher the price per unit.
Epaulets - this is a big sticking point with myself and I know Indy fans for sure. I tried to get these Raiders ones as long as possible (they are all a little different film to film). But the shirts are made in really small numbers - so the materials are cut with the fabric in stacks where things like epaulets, pockets, etc don't scale.
I reallllly am trying to keep these items as reasonably priced as possible. For years and years, I made absolutely everything myself (and built up a pretty good reputation in the Solo costuming community), and I always told myself if I was going to partner with a manufacturer, I wanted to keep the pricing reasonable and respectful for my buyers comparing a similar item to one I hand make.
Attached are two photos that I think show the quirks on the screen used items well.
I know I'll never please everyone with a manufactured item. Everyone's fit is different, and so are their *must haves* and their *close enoughs* in terms of accuracy for items. They also need to jive with your other items for the costume.
But I am hoping that wall of texts helps folks make a decision - especially as I couldn't really post in all the forums/FB groups with how the development process went for these shirts. The lead time for a small operation like myself is long enough that folks with more resources can develop them faster.
That is also why I made some choices that made my offerings a bit unique - like the trousers being cotton, and their details and construction being VERY accurate to Raiders, but they are a bit slimmer and have a slightly higher crotch than others (took a lot of feedback Todds got in terms of the fit into account on these)
Anyhow, always feel free to discuss these details, tag me, critique, ask me questions! I do get a little overwhelmed at times with questions/inquiries when my plate is full, but I am always open to talking shop!
Thanks for shining light on the development process/choices. I appreciate the dedication to screen accuracy, I think overall you made a really great shirt! The community is lucky to have someone put so much effort into developing new Indy gear!
Thank you! I worked quite hard on this project (I started researching manufacturing around 2016/17) but life kinda gets in the way!
Indy is also my real first costuming love. While I was first exposed to GB, Raiders was 1) a core memory of my dad showing me something and 2) the first time I understood costuming was communicating so much about the character.
I'd love to eventually offer tall sizing, more sizing, etc. to fit more folks needs, but that's tough.
Until these preorders, I had always funded every cent with my own cash.
So I am *very* invested in these projects, both personally and professionally.
Hope folks know I am not someone just dropping into Indy because there is a new film coming out. I've been doing mostly Solo, but this isn't my first endeavor.
Here is the first Indy shirt I sewed back maybe 5/6 years ago with my Penman Everyman and WPG trousers.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:15 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
tomek9210 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 1:34 pm
Perfect color for me
Thank you for the update
Sure thing! I am swamped at the moment so I am trying to update as frequently as I can but I'm definitely behind.
I should have much better photos Wednesday/Thursday
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2023 10:21 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Indiana Croft wrote: ↑Mon Jan 02, 2023 9:13 am
Tomek9210 :
Croft, what lightning did you use in your photos? Pants look super light in color.
The picture was taken out on my deck with cloud cover, they are a little darker than the picture.
The below pictures also taken under cloud cover, hey it was January 1st and it was 50deg. out, took some shots while I could.
Now my good sir Karolian, the shirt is awesome and none of my comments were not meant to be hurtful, but I belive you know that.
Yes the sleeves are snug, as is the cuff.
The button are the right color, if you can't source smaller, could the Mfg. make the hole a little larger
The pants, other than having to be re-hemmed, just to long, but I figured I would have to, this is why I mentioned that you
should send them un-hemmed (maybe as an option). But this was the first time I wore them any length of time, these are
very comfortable pant, very comfortable.
If the grey are the same material, I just might have to buy a pair as well.
My Todds Calvry Twill are nice, they are the pants, but for some reason when I wear them to work, they fell very
different, like not the kind of pants you wear to work.
Yours are perfect for every day wear. And like them.
Here's some shot out the ol rock pile.
Shot of the rear pocket. Canyon, be nice.
Croft
Hey Croft!
No offense taken at all! I am no stranger to feedback, positive, negative, critiques, etc.
Always happy to get constructive feedback like your posts!
My philosophy running my business is that I either need to be completely hands off, or be as involved as I can be. So my Russian Novel that was my post was more to add to the description of the shirt than a retort!
One thing I always loved about Todd's page was that each section had a nice write up with the research/dev etc.
The grey trousers will be the same design, but updated fabrics!
This will be the first time using a Pantone color, so I am looking forward to it, and the doors it'll open up for future projects.
Great shots (and background) as always!
Also crazy to see the color shift on them in everyone's photos.
Re: Indy gear from Karolian Dry Goods
Posted: Tue Jan 03, 2023 6:28 pm
by KarolianDryGoods
Samples arrived today! Couldn't be happier with them - I should have better photos this week with the Cairo shirt and the rest of the gear.
My lighting in my current office is really harsh, so this is the most accurate lighting I could get to take some quick pics.