New Todd's Standard All Wrong

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JC1972
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by JC1972 »

Do you know what size jacket you'd be if you got a custom? Check the Bazaar for used jackets to get at a good deal. Or put a WTB post in the Marrakesh section for what you're looking for. Good luck! :TOH:

PS Since you're a senior, you'll be graduating in 5 months; perhaps ask for a Wested as a graduation present. Or use the money you get to go towards one, if you can. ;)
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by RCSignals »

If you do end up going for a Custom you have many other options. Todd's makes a Custom that is very nice and a good pattern. So Does Magnoli. Then there is Tony Nowak as well. You might even want to look to a Temple of Doom jacket which may suit your smaller frame.
Gibson+Barnes is not a custom and not in your current price range but after you graduate could become so.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

RCSignals wrote:If you do end up going for a Custom you have many other options. Todd's makes a Custom that is very nice and a good pattern. So Does Magnoli. Then there is Tony Nowak as well. You might even want to look to a Temple of Doom jacket which may suit your smaller frame.
Gibson+Barnes is not a custom and not in your current price range but after you graduate could become so.

The only custom in my price range right now is the Wested. At $264 though... it's just skirting it... We shall see...
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

JC1972 wrote:Do you know what size jacket you'd be if you got a custom? Check the Bazaar for used jackets to get at a good deal. Or put a WTB post in the Marrakesh section for what you're looking for. Good luck! :TOH:

PS Since you're a senior, you'll be graduating in 5 months; perhaps ask for a Wested as a graduation present. Or use the money you get to go towards one, if you can. ;)

My current A-2 is a size 40 but I've always thought it was slightly too large. I'm going to go to a tailor and triple check my measurements before I order anything else. I measured myself for the Todd's and the length seems alright (I knew the sleeves would be long).
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

Well, more than a little underwhelmed by how Todd handled that. With as much money as I've spent with him these last few weeks, one would think he'd be a little more willing to take 2 minutes to look at my pictures. He seemed altogether disinterested and told me all the jackets are the same, no exception. Which is, I assume, why my photos looked rather different than other photos... Of course he wouldn't know since he didn't bother to look. Ugh. Going to think twice from here on out about doing more business with him. Consider me weary...



So then my options seem to be Wested and Magnoli for a custom fit. Though on the Gibson & Barnes website they mention upgrading to a "made to measure" should an off the rack model not work. Can't find any pricing for that on their site though. Anyone have any figures?

Beyond that, I'm leaning most heavily towards a Wested I think (price is right). I was considering Magnoli and would still appreciate insight into his jackets. Though I did hear that his jackets are out-sourced which made me a bit weary. I don't want a game of telephone, and having one more link in the chain seems like it would only complicate things, not to mention add drastically to the bottom line price which is, let's face it, hardly cheap. Thoughts?

If I were to go for the Wested, would there be any reason for me to get the ROLA instead of the Raiders? I am tempted by the 80s fit, being a slim guy, but then again I would also like to wear a sweater beneath the jacket. Would the Raiders be a better choice then? Also, the ROLA says it's a more of a light weight jacket. Is that actually in terms of warmth or in construction?


Thanks again. And I hope everyone had a lovely holiday.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by crismans »

Some other people will have better info on the Raiders vs ROLA jackets (although do a little search as this is an issue that's been looked at several times). I don't think the actual ROLA is that different in terms of construction or actual weight of the jacket. It has a slimmer cut, no leather facings, and a smaller gauge zipper. It's supposed to be more in tune with the actual movie jacket vs the Raiders which has the facings, heavier gauge zipper, etc. to be more durable.

As to Magnoli, I always have to add the disclaimer that I don't have one of his Indy jackets. But I do have an X3 jacket and everything is top shelf from materials to construction. Based on that jacket and others comments, I would not hesitate an instant to order an Indy jacket from him. The price is $495, shipping included. If I'm not mistaken, that's the set price, no matter what changes you request. So it doesn't matter even if he does outsource, you pay the one price. Several people here have communicated with him via his jacket guide and emails without problem so you probably won't need to use the phone.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by RCSignals »

BaptisteTheFool wrote:...........

Beyond that, I'm leaning most heavily towards a Wested I think (price is right). I was considering Magnoli and would still appreciate insight into his jackets. Though I did hear that his jackets are out-sourced which made me a bit weary. I don't want a game of telephone, and having one more link in the chain seems like it would only complicate things, not to mention add drastically to the bottom line price which is, let's face it, hardly cheap. Thoughts?

............
If an "outsourced" jacket concerns you, keep in mind that unless you go for a custom made jacket the Wested's are outsourced.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by Yojimbo Jones »

Also bear in mind the point of outsourcing is to make things cheaper, not more expensive.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by bigrex »

BaptisteTheFool wrote: He seemed altogether disinterested and told me all the jackets are the same, no exception...Going to think twice from here on out about doing more business with him. Consider me weary...
Yeah, you might just want to send it back I guess, sounds like he needs to at least rethink his standard small proportions. It probably doesn't show badly on the larger jackets, but I don't see any reason why all things on the jacket should not or could not be downsized proportionately (including, and probably especially pockets and collars)! You could also try buying a large, wet it and then toss it in the dryer for shrinkage, but that would be a gamble and if money is tight, it also might just be more money down the drain.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

bigrex wrote:
BaptisteTheFool wrote: He seemed altogether disinterested and told me all the jackets are the same, no exception...Going to think twice from here on out about doing more business with him. Consider me weary...
Yeah, you might just want to send it back I guess, sounds like he needs to at least rethink his standard small proportions. It probably doesn't show badly on the larger jackets, but I don't see any reason why all things on the jacket should not or could not be downsized proportionately (including, and probably especially pockets and collars)! You could also try buying a large, wet it and then toss it in the dryer for shrinkage, but that would be a gamble and if money is tight, it also might just be more money down the drain.

By same, he was referring to all Larges are Larges and all Smalls all Smalls-- they are all cut the same. He didn't even acknowledge my specific complaints, he just claimed that there couldn't be a manufacturing error. Seems like a load to me-- there can always be an error.

I think at this point I'm just going to go Wested. Been surfing the forums for the last few hours and it seems like the best option for my budget.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by bigrex »

BaptisteTheFool wrote:
bigrex wrote:
BaptisteTheFool wrote: He seemed altogether disinterested and told me all the jackets are the same, no exception...Going to think twice from here on out about doing more business with him. Consider me weary...
Yeah, you might just want to send it back I guess, sounds like he needs to at least rethink his standard small proportions. It probably doesn't show badly on the larger jackets, but I don't see any reason why all things on the jacket should not or could not be downsized proportionately (including, and probably especially pockets and collars)! You could also try buying a large, wet it and then toss it in the dryer for shrinkage, but that would be a gamble and if money is tight, it also might just be more money down the drain.

By same, he was referring to all Larges are Larges and all Smalls all Smalls-- they are all cut the same. He didn't even acknowledge my specific complaints, he just claimed that there couldn't be a manufacturing error. Seems like a load to me-- there can always be an error.

I think at this point I'm just going to go Wested. Been surfing the forums for the last few hours and it seems like the best option for my budget.
So, according to that they are all supposed to be "shrunken down" or cut proportionately. Huh, that's odd, your photo sure doesn't look it. I agree with you, there can always be error, heck some worker might have been bored and thought it looked funny, but more likely it is just an honest mistake.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

bigrex wrote:
BaptisteTheFool wrote:
bigrex wrote:
BaptisteTheFool wrote: He seemed altogether disinterested and told me all the jackets are the same, no exception...Going to think twice from here on out about doing more business with him. Consider me weary...
Yeah, you might just want to send it back I guess, sounds like he needs to at least rethink his standard small proportions. It probably doesn't show badly on the larger jackets, but I don't see any reason why all things on the jacket should not or could not be downsized proportionately (including, and probably especially pockets and collars)! You could also try buying a large, wet it and then toss it in the dryer for shrinkage, but that would be a gamble and if money is tight, it also might just be more money down the drain.

By same, he was referring to all Larges are Larges and all Smalls all Smalls-- they are all cut the same. He didn't even acknowledge my specific complaints, he just claimed that there couldn't be a manufacturing error. Seems like a load to me-- there can always be an error.

I think at this point I'm just going to go Wested. Been surfing the forums for the last few hours and it seems like the best option for my budget.
So, according to that they are all supposed to be "shrunken down" or cut proportionately. Huh, that's odd, your photo sure doesn't look it. I agree with you, there can always be error, heck some worker might have been bored and thought it looked funny, but more likely it is just an honest mistake.

Ok, I'm going to stop paraphrasing and quote him directly. I hope he doesn't mind.

We suggest you return the jacket as soon as possible. They are all cut the same and will all fit the same. Some body types will not agree with this pattern. ( or visa versa) The discussion board is closed for the holidays, it matters not. You can return the jacket if you are not satisfied.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by RCSignals »

BaptisteTheFool wrote:...........

Ok, I'm going to stop paraphrasing and quote him directly. I hope he doesn't mind.

We suggest you return the jacket as soon as possible. They are all cut the same and will all fit the same. Some body types will not agree with this pattern. ( or visa versa) The discussion board is closed for the holidays, it matters not. You can return the jacket if you are not satisfied.
That doesn't seem unreasonable to me.

It is my understanding that Todd inspects the jackets when he gets them in, so he wouldn't be sending out one that might not be 'right'.

As I said before, your jacket looked to me like all it needed was to be worn and 'broken in' to your body.

You bought an off the rack jacket in generic Small, not a custom sized jacket. Whoever you buy from it may be that to get the fit you want you need to go the custom route.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by eazybox »

Todd's reply seems perfectly reasonable to me, too; he was just being honest with you and telling you that he feels your best solution is to return the jacket. I don't get the impression he was giving you the bum's rush at all.

Jack
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

eazybox wrote:Todd's reply seems perfectly reasonable to me, too; he was just being honest with you and telling you that he feels your best solution is to return the jacket. I don't get the impression he was giving you the bum's rush at all.

Jack

I'd think it's reasonable if he took the time to inspect the pictures. That's my issue with it. I'm certainly ok with someone saying they feel there's nothing wrong with my jacket (though I disagree). But to tell me there's nothing wrong without looking is unreasonable. That's my only complaint here.


Anyway it's a moot point now. As I said, I'm going to get a refund and buy a Wested. Whether I shop with Todd again is something I'll have to decide.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by RCSignals »

How do you know he didn't see the photos? If you sent them to him he probably did.
If you just directed him to here and that is what this means "The discussion board is closed for the holidays, it matters not." I can understand his point.
It is an off the rack jacket, he has examined them and knows they are all the same. Your only option with it is to return it or have it altered.

Best of luck getting what you want from Wested. People seem happy with their off-the-rack jackets, which I'd guess you are going for?
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

RCSignals wrote:How do you know he didn't see the photos? If you sent them to him he probably did.
If you just directed him to here and that is what this means "The discussion board is closed for the holidays, it matters not." I can understand his point.
It is an off the rack jacket, he has examined them and knows they are all the same. Your only option with it is to return it or have it altered.

Best of luck getting what you want from Wested. People seem happy with their off-the-rack jackets, which I'd guess you are going for?

I linked him to both here and The Raven.

And nope, I'm going custom this time. If I'm going to invest anymore in a jacket I'm going to do it right this time. Rather have something I'm totally satisfied with at this point.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by RaidersBash »

I still don't see what the problem is.

My collar was stiff and tall exactly like yours when I got it. I used steam to get it to relax. It draped a little oddly too, kinda far off the back/shoulder and wide at the front (makes sense, tilt one part back and another part will swing up...because it's new and stiff) I finally just took Holts advice and took it for a walk in the rain (or shower) threw a big thick sweater on underneath so it would sorta "shrink to fit" and it's fine...aged it like 5 years...threw on some Dr. Jacksons and it's great.

Here's a pic of mine and the pockets (before the walk in the rain). I don't see a major difference in proportions, but that's only my opinion.

Image
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

Your picture's pretty dark, I can hardly make out the collar.


Anyway, again-- I'm not going to risk ruining a jacket that doesn't fit. As a student I don't have $150 to simply throw out the window on a gamble. Either it fits or it doesn't. And as it is, it doesn't. I shouldn't have to go soaking a new piece of clothing in water to get it to fit.




On an aside-- I just placed a custom Wested and a pair of pants in the cart to see what shipping prices were like. It added $40 for each item. Surely that's not right? Why wouldn't the items just ship together? $80 for shipping? Anyone else seen that issue?
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by RaidersBash »

the collar had already been steamed at that point, so it's not a good comparison. It's more the pocket size I was comparing in that pic.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by Kevin Anderson »

A custom sounds like a good idea, but bear in mind that unless you're a particularily strange shape, the measurements and dimensions of a custom
jacket aren't going to be that much different to an off-the-rack one from a good maker. You just need to hope that Wested get the details
right on the important things, mainly pockets and collar. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by Puppetboy »

Baptiste,

Sorry for the poor communication. Things have been half shut down here during the holidays. I think that by the time we were able to respond to your email, COW had been closed and we couldn't see your photos. I don't know that for certain, I only offer that as a possible explanation. We always look at any photos that are sent in.

I agree that there are two factors - one being that the leather is still stiff (that makes the collar stand up weird) and your frame. The jacket fits you in some ways, and in others it doesn't. Overall, I just don't think the jacket will "give" enough to give you a good fit. It only makes things more difficult on a person your size, because the leather is proportionally stiffer and thicker - do you follow?

I would only try a custom made jacket if the tailor is on hand to fit it to you personally. Just sending off a list of measurements will not capture your "shape", which is what is the most important matter in your case. The roll and slope of your shoulders, your posture, and the curve of your spine will all drastically affect the way a garment hangs on you, and a set of numbers just won't cut it. I think you might be a more difficult fit than most. And then what do you do when the jacket is delivered to you and it's "close but not quite"? The back-and-forth with a long-distance tailor may not be to your liking, either.

If you have limited funds (and who doesn't except for _?) you have just two options: return it and look for a second hand one that may fit you better, or try the water soaking method. I am 95% certain that it will produce the best fitting jacket you've ever had. But I realize that many people don't have the confidence or inclination to go through that process. You might want to read the threads of those who have done this and then decide.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

Thanks for the reply, Todd. Jacket went out in the mail today.


The photos were posted at The Raven as well. But no matter, it's moot at this point.

I'm rather in a geographically undesirable place it seems. You're in California, Wested in the UK and Magnoli in New Zealand-- Maryland isn't too convenient for custom fitting one of these jackets. The only cost-effective option for me, it seems, is Wested. Perhaps it's a gamble, but I see no other option. Isn't very ideal to throw money at a second hand jacket either where I'll have no recourse but to try and sell it should it not fit. I'll tell you, I've always had a hard time finding clothes that fit-- pants especially. But not being able to find a fitting jacket? That's a new one even for me...




To anyone who has dealt with Wested, would it be an option to perhaps send a few photos of myself along with measurements?
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by crismans »

The Indy jacket, while obviously my favorite and a cool looking jacket, is one that doesn't lend itself to all body types.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

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BaptisteTheFool wrote:Thanks for the reply, Todd. Jacket went out in the mail today.


The photos were posted at The Raven as well. But no matter, it's moot at this point.

I'm rather in a geographically undesirable place it seems. You're in California, Wested in the UK and Magnoli in New Zealand-- Maryland isn't too convenient for custom fitting one of these jackets. The only cost-effective option for me, it seems, is Wested. Perhaps it's a gamble, but I see no other option. Isn't very ideal to throw money at a second hand jacket either where I'll have no recourse but to try and sell it should it not fit. I'll tell you, I've always had a hard time finding clothes that fit-- pants especially. But not being able to find a fitting jacket? That's a new one even for me...




To anyone who has dealt with Wested, would it be an option to perhaps send a few photos of myself along with measurements?
Baptiste, what size are you? I just listed my 40R Wested Goat that fits more like a 38...maybe smaller if you ever wanted to wear a sweater or hoodie under it.

Either way, I know myself and several others on the threads that when selling jackets will give the option to refund if it doesn't fit.

Mind you, the Wested I'm selling was a CUSTOM from Wested (with tailor measurements taken by a suit maker) and fit so tight from the day it arrived I could never wear a sweater under it. anything more than a t-shirt was too much. So customs ain't always what you'd think either...
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

RaidersBash wrote:
BaptisteTheFool wrote:Thanks for the reply, Todd. Jacket went out in the mail today.


The photos were posted at The Raven as well. But no matter, it's moot at this point.

I'm rather in a geographically undesirable place it seems. You're in California, Wested in the UK and Magnoli in New Zealand-- Maryland isn't too convenient for custom fitting one of these jackets. The only cost-effective option for me, it seems, is Wested. Perhaps it's a gamble, but I see no other option. Isn't very ideal to throw money at a second hand jacket either where I'll have no recourse but to try and sell it should it not fit. I'll tell you, I've always had a hard time finding clothes that fit-- pants especially. But not being able to find a fitting jacket? That's a new one even for me...




To anyone who has dealt with Wested, would it be an option to perhaps send a few photos of myself along with measurements?
Baptiste, what size are you? I just listed my 40R Wested Goat that fits more like a 38...maybe smaller if you ever wanted to wear a sweater or hoodie under it.

Either way, I know myself and several others on the threads that when selling jackets will give the option to refund if it doesn't fit.

Mind you, the Wested I'm selling was a CUSTOM from Wested (with tailor measurements taken by a suit maker) and fit so tight from the day it arrived I could never wear a sweater under it. anything more than a t-shirt was too much. So customs ain't always what you'd think either...
I own two A-2s in 40R. Always thought they were slightly baggy though, but I usually wear them with a sweater anyway.

I suppose it's a possibility. I would like to get my measurements and give Wested a ring to talk it through with them before I even consider a pre-owned jacket though. I do appreciate the offer.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by djd »

Just to add my 2 cents worth - Wested, while admirable in many ways seem to be somewhat random in their customer service. Some people get great service, some don't. It seems to be the experience of many here that as soon as things get into the realms of custom requests (beyond very simple measurements) things seem inclined to go wrong. When it comes to serving us 'sad' fan types I find that Todd and Magnoli actually seem to care a great deal more about getting the details right. That probably doesn't help you but I thought I should just throw it in.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

djd wrote:Just to add my 2 cents worth - Wested, while admirable in many ways seem to be somewhat random in their customer service. Some people get great service, some don't. It seems to be the experience of many here that as soon as things get into the realms of custom requests (beyond very simple measurements) things seem inclined to go wrong. When it comes to serving us 'sad' fan types I find that Todd and Magnoli actually seem to care a great deal more about getting the details right. That probably doesn't help you but I thought I should just throw it in.

Yes-- which is why I was considering Magnoli at all-- I've heard the mixed reviews on Wested's service. But I just paid tuition last night and my balance is hurting. Magnoli, though I hear fantastic things, is just too pricey for me. Though I am planning to grab a pair of his pants in a few weeks after I recover from the tuition blues.

Todd is also too much and doesn't offer goat, which if I'm going to pay more is what I'd rather have.

By the by, has Todd ever said why he doesn't offer goat? I would be, I think, slightly more inclined to try a custom from him were he to offer goat. I will say, despite my latest complaint, I have been impressed with the speed of his shipping and service, especially on my first order. First time through I gave them a ring late one afternoon and had a shipping confirmation email less than an hour after I hung up. That definitely was impressive.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by Holt »

Todd told me a while back that if I wanted goat then say the word and he would source some. even his assistant said this to me.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

Indiana Holt wrote:Todd told me a while back that if I wanted goat then say the word and he would source some. even his assistant said this to me.

Good to know, thanks.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by blueoakleyz »

Yes I had a bad time with mine, did not fit well at all. I returned it.
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by Holt »

maby you ordered the wrong size?

did you return it for a new jacket?
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

Indiana Holt wrote:maby you ordered the wrong size?

did you return it for a new jacket?

I had ordered a small. The length was fine, the sleeves were long, the chest was... all over the place, the shoulders sat oddly and the collar was high. I returned it for a refund. I'm looking into a custom now but I'm really lost in which route to go. I've been scouring this site for the last week+ trying to make a decision. Wested's price is right, but I'm a bit apprehensive with some of the stories I've read. Magnoli sounds incredible but is just so pricey and neither of them are local-- I'd really prefer to stay in the US in case I'm not satisfied for whatever reason. Todd is tempting (though again too pricey) but can't get goatskins for me. So... either I spend more than I like or I take a risk on a vendor that leaves me (perhaps unjustifiably) apprehensive.

...decisions decisions...


Anyone have any thoughts on Todd's cow? Is it really warm? I really think I'd like an in-between sort of hide. Neither too warm nor too light. Something I can wear in winter with a sweater perhaps, but something I can also wear through most of the rest of the year here in Maryland. From what I read, cow just sounds like it'd be too warm.


EDIT-- perils of not directly quoting! I missed that you were refering to blueoakleyz. Ah well-- what I said still stands. :)
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blueoakleyz
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by blueoakleyz »

Indiana Holt wrote:maby you ordered the wrong size?

did you return it for a new jacket?
No I just traded it for some other stuff I needed for my fantasy.. whip, bag etc.
It was the right size for sure.. Maybe *IM* just not the right size heh..
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BaptisteTheFool
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

Ok, not really on topic, but my quest for the perfect jacket continues...

I just sent Magnoli an email with some general questions. Despite the higher cost, I'm really thinking his jacket would be the right choice. It sounds like you pay extra for the assurance of satisfaction and I can't afford not be satisfied...
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generalFROSTY
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by generalFROSTY »

BaptisteTheFool wrote:Ok, not really on topic, but my quest for the perfect jacket continues...

I just sent Magnoli an email with some general questions. Despite the higher cost, I'm really thinking his jacket would be the right choice. It sounds like you pay extra for the assurance of satisfaction and I can't afford not be satisfied...
I've dealt with Magnoli before - he's one of the BEST vendors I have ever dealt with in all my years of buying merchandise online.
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BaptisteTheFool
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Re: New Todd's Standard All Wrong

Post by BaptisteTheFool »

generalFROSTY wrote:
BaptisteTheFool wrote:Ok, not really on topic, but my quest for the perfect jacket continues...

I just sent Magnoli an email with some general questions. Despite the higher cost, I'm really thinking his jacket would be the right choice. It sounds like you pay extra for the assurance of satisfaction and I can't afford not be satisfied...
I've dealt with Magnoli before - he's one of the BEST vendors I have ever dealt with in all my years of buying merchandise online.

Yeah, he responded to my email within 25minutes. Impressed already. Hopefully this will move forward to my committing to a purchase... Gotta wait for a paycheck or so, but I think I'll probably make the move.
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